wing tip weight

[Bootlegger]

  Fellow's I am in the process of building a wing that will of course need the tip weight.
  What is a good way to mount a perminate weight, and then use a tube or something for the adjustable set up?? 
             Thanks, Gil

[Brian Massey]

For me a standard weight box works well. I prefer mounting the lid with small screws in the sides, not the one long machine screw through the middle however, makes it easier to remove and put back on.

Brian

[FLOYD CARTER]

I usually build-in the ply weight boxes that are sold as a "DIY" kit.  I find it easier to just epoxy a length of brass tubing into the wingtip, closed at one end.  Then, lead shot can be stuffed into the tube, with some paper wadding.  A hardwood "cork" keeps everything in place.

Floyd

[Bob Reeves]

I usually build-in the ply weight boxes that are sold as a "DIY" kit.  I find it easier to just epoxy a length of brass tubing into the wingtip, closed at one end.  Then, lead shot can be stuffed into the tube, with some paper wadding.  A hardwood "cork" keeps everything in place.

Floyd

Did this on the TwistMaster, problem was the brass tube weighed slightly more than what tip weight the airplane needed for proper trim. I ended up using no aditional weight and just lived with the small trim issue till I retired it a couple years ago.

[Bill Little]

HI Gil,

I usually put about 1/2 the recommended weight permanently in the wing, than add a box or tube to use for the rest.

When it comes to using a "box", I epoxy the bolt to the bottom (threads sticking up, of course) with a nut epoxied on the inside of the box for added insurance.  This stops the searching for the blind nut in the bottom with the lid on plus allows the use of nylock nuts to secure the tip weight plates so they don't rattle.  So much easier for me to put the lid back on!

A nut driver is used to tighten the nylock nut on the top to hold on the lid.  Backwards to what everyone else does, I guess, but a LOT easier for me to deal with.

Big Bear

[minnesotamodeler]

I've been using the neck and cap of plastic bottles (water, pop, etc.) epoxied onto some 1/16" ply. and mounted in the wing with the cap flush with the surface, then cut a slot in the cap for unscrewing with a coin.  Nickels fit snugly into it, and you can stack 4-5 of them in there if need be.  This is on 1/2As, may not hold enough weight for anything much bigger.

[Chris Wilson]

I've been using the neck and cap of plastic bottles (water, pop, etc.) epoxied onto some 1/16" ply. and mounted in the wing with the cap flush with the surface, then cut a slot in the cap for unscrewing with a coin.  Nickels fit snugly into it, and you can stack 4-5 of them in there if need be.  This is on 1/2As, may not hold enough weight for anything much bigger.

That is so darn clever! I love it!

Could go one further though and stick a balsa disk on it, sand and paint it like the rest of model though.

[Wynn Robins]

I would never install permanet wing tip weight - why you might ask......

well, there have been a number of planes I have built and have flown of other peoples that needed weight on the INBOARD wing to get it trimmed - with NO weight to the outboard side.  if you glue it in there - it will be ugly trying to get it out.,

I test fly all my planes with no tip weight and go from there.

[Dick Pacini]

For me a standard weight box works well. I prefer mounting the lid with small screws in the sides, not the one long machine screw through the middle however, makes it easier to remove and put back on.

Brian

The Brodak tip weights are square and have a hole in the center.  They are a snug fit in the box and inserting the screw is easier because they act as a guide.