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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Perry Rose on January 15, 2022, 03:11:49 PM
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A YS .120 4 stroke. It was running when put up several years ago. It's gummed up solid now. I'm going to try heat first. It may take a lot to balance the prop.
I was helping my son install a new Gear Star transmission into the hot rod and came across this old formally state of the art engine.
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With enough money ,parts and time I am sure it can run again Perry🙂🙂
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A YS .120 4 stroke. It was running when put up several years ago. It's gummed up solid now. I'm going to try heat first. It may take a lot to balance the prop.
I was helping my son install a new Gear Star transmission into the hot rod and came across this old formally state of the art engine.
EEEEuuuwww... I hate mud daubers and what ever has taken up home in the exhaust and intake.
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You can take your own road on this, but I think I'd go with the old restorer's adage that you don't go trying to turn over an engine unless you know what's inside.
In this case I'd be concerned that turning it reasonably hard for crud in the bottom end would bend pushrods or rocker arms if the valve train is locked up, and I'd be concerned that whatever's blocking the intake and exhaust would be gritty if it got into the cylinder or the bottom end. I think I'd at least take the head off, inspect the upper cylinder, and free up the valve train separately before I went and put it all together and tried turning it as a unit.
I don't know what those engines are going for, but they're probably worth the extra time it takes to make sure you don't turn a very dirty straight engine into a dirty very bent engine.
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I think this is a good candidate for the Pine-Sol soak. We all know how common soaking a dirty engine in a crock pot of anti-freeze is now. A friend of mine from the vintage dirt bike side of life discovered using Pine-Sol,( the original formula of the kitchen cleaner) to soak and clean varnished up motorcycle carburetors in. He has since passed away and I never got a chance to ask if he did this warm or cold, but I would try it warm, just not too warm. As far as I can tell from reading the product label, there would be less worries about fumes, but may be worth a try on a subject such as this. Good luck with this!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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BTW, if you are worried about rusting something, don't. You can use just about any non-acidic liquid to clean it up that you need to, like laundry detergent in hot water, to clean an engine, as long as you don't let it sit with water long enough to dry out (and rust), and oil it. This is the once place that it's fine to use WD-40, take any wet parts, spray them liberally with WD-40, that will displace any water (Water Displacement formula #40), wipe it off before you reinstall the part and oil it with real oil (like Marvel or other brand Air Tool Oil, Mobil 1 0w40, whatever), should be fine.
Obviously you are going to have to take it apart, not normally recommended but you gotta do what you gotta do.
Brett
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BTW, if you are worried about rusting something, don't. You can use just about any non-acidic liquid to clean it up that you need to, like laundry detergent in hot water, to clean an engine, as long as you don't let it sit with water long enough to dry out (and rust), and oil it. This is the once place that it's fine to use WD-40, take any wet parts, spray them liberally with WD-40, that will displace any water (Water Displacement formula #40), wipe it off before you reinstall the part and oil it with real oil (like Marvel or other brand Air Tool Oil, Mobil 1 0w40, whatever), should be fine.
Obviously you are going to have to take it apart, not normally recommended but you gotta do what you gotta do.
Brett
Absolutely. I'll just add two things -- you can leave it in water longer if it's completely immersed, and if you've just cleaned it off with detergent then you want to oil it up immediately. A good detergent wash will strip off all the surface oil. If you actually accomplish that with a low-alloy steel or cast iron and don't get things fully dry and then oiled up it'll start visibly rusting in a matter of hours.
OK, three: I prefer to bake things out to dry them. Depending on whether my wife's home I either do that with a propane torch or the kitchen oven. If I were working on stuff all the time I'd have a toaster oven in the shop.
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And if you are going to and really want to run the motor, get a complete gasket and regulator diaphram kit as well as a complete bearing kit for the motor.
You are going to need it.
also get a new check valve and the o-ring kit for the back end.
Carl
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Absolutely. I'll just add two things -- you can leave it in water longer if it's completely immersed, and if you've just cleaned it off with detergent then you want to oil it up immediately. A good detergent wash will strip off all the surface oil. If you actually accomplish that with a low-alloy steel or cast iron and don't get things fully dry and then oiled up it'll start visibly rusting in a matter of hours.
OK, three: I prefer to bake things out to dry them. Depending on whether my wife's home I either do that with a propane torch or the kitchen oven. If I were working on stuff all the time I'd have a toaster oven in the shop.
My shop has two toaster ovens converted with temperature controllers on them for various activities. I know better than messing with mama's oven. Specially with the things I tend to be playing with..
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I removed the exhaust pipe and soaked it in hot soapy water for a bit. The plug softened and came out. At some time a bug had made a nest in the exhaust port in the head and the engine was run burning the nest. Most of that mess came out with a wire. Hopefully the throttle plate was closed when the bug sealed the venturi off.
35 degrees and windy today good for this kind of project.
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I had to cut the stuff out of the venturi with a # 11 blade. Inside I found a larva wiggling around in the cold. All kinds of black tar like goo where the fuel used to be, clogging up the carb and pressure regulator.
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I had to cut the stuff out of the venturi with a # 11 blade. Inside I found a larva wiggling around in the cold. All kinds of black tar like goo where the fuel used to be, clogging up the carb and pressure regulator.
I do not envy this project. I might would lust on the engine though. I'm gonna guess the mud dauber nest is the same if they haven't yet left.
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I had to cut the stuff out of the venturi with a # 11 blade. Inside I found a larva wiggling around in the cold. All kinds of black tar like goo where the fuel used to be, clogging up the carb and pressure regulator.
You did humanely transfer that little critter to an alternative nest, right? Because squishing it like a bug would be -- oh, wait, it is a bug.
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You did humanely transfer that little critter to an alternative nest, right? Because squishing it like a bug would be -- oh, wait, it is a bug.
Actually I did transfer it to an alternate nest if you call a trash can a nest. That was so it can continue on in the process and grow up to be an adult and sting me if he wants.
I mounted the engine on it's board and gave it a prime and the starter wouldn't turn it over. I rigged a cord and hooked it to the car battery. It fired right up. I may have installed the pressure regulator wrong. I didn't try it on a tank though. A 14 x 13 APC.
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The final answer is "yes it will". I cleaned the pressure regulator and found the manual on line followed the instructions and it fired up and idled. Throttle response was good without messing with the needle valve.
I figure at least a thousand on ebay.