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Author Topic: Why not to use Enya engines?  (Read 14985 times)

Offline GallopingGhostler

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Why not to use Enya engines?
« on: February 03, 2021, 08:31:09 PM »
Found this interesting post in RC Groups -> Aircraft - Fuel - General -> Engines Discussion -> Enya engines ...who's still using them?
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2068286-Enya-engines-who-s-still-using-them/page172#post46464217

Enjoyed watching his using the different small Enya engines, both legacy cross scavenge and Schneurle, thought may be a few here would like to watch, too. ;D

Quote from: fps60 of Russia, Moscow, Moskva
Why not to use Enya engines? All of them are good runners, both old-time and recent ones, in any weather. Here are some examples of our experience with Enya's:

Enya 19-V


Enya SS25 Stunt


Enya 11CXD Stunt


Enya 15CX Stunt (sorry, no pictures in flight)


Enya 40XZ Stunt (has not flied yet, have no suitable airframe)


They all have good torque and so are capable to run efficiently with large props.

Offline Gregory Hammond

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2021, 12:53:58 AM »
My Enya engines are still going strong!  Easy starting.. wonderful control line engines

Apparently..  you can send your tired old engine back to Japan, and Mr Enya will recondition back to new condition!
Hope he is still offering this.. its been a while since I visited the online web site

https://www.enya-engine.com/index_E.htm

Offline Dave Hull

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2021, 02:04:56 AM »
I need a test stand like that. Something really, really solid. Stability you can only get with an eight foot tap root. And made of crush-resistant endgrain wood. Something that can handle even an Enya 60. Of course, I'll need a forest first in order to select the best sited "test stand." And be sure it is not made out of only 15 lb wood....

It occurs to me that if you picked the right tree to modify into your test stand, you would have sufficient rawstock to make props for all your engines for the rest of your life. So I'd be looking for a beechwood or a maple as a first choice. A birch tree would also be ideal.

I've been impressed with the Enyas I've seen run. So it's no surprise that I have a couple of projects in the works that will get new Enyas....

The Divot

Online John Park

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2021, 05:10:48 AM »
I really do wish I had a test stand like that stump!  I was once running-in an Enya .29-III, mounted on a piece of 1/2" ply secured(?) to the top of a five-bar gate by a big G-cramp, which the vibration duly unscrewed without my noticing.  That engine flew a long way into a field of long grass!
You want to make 'em nice, else you get mad lookin' at 'em!

Offline Steve Berry

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #4 on: February 04, 2021, 06:54:41 AM »
It occurs to me that if you picked the right tree to modify into your test stand, you would have sufficient rawstock to make props for all your engines for the rest of your life. So I'd be looking for a beechwood or a maple as a first choice. A birch tree would also be ideal.
The Divot

The top guys would be looking for the rare carbon fiber trees....

Offline Peter in Fairfax, VA

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #5 on: February 04, 2021, 07:15:07 AM »
Not a big fan of clamps.  Prefer screws, nails.

Not me:


Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #6 on: February 04, 2021, 09:23:22 AM »
Not a big fan of clamps.  Prefer screws, nails.

Not me:




   There is a lot wrong in that video even before the engine fires up!  For one, looking at the size of the engine, he was no where near secure enough on the deck rail post, and what he had clamping it doesn't even qualify as a clamp to me!! Then look at the way the starter grabs onto the crankshaft and the way he has to pull it off to reposition it, i think he actually started the accident when he pulled the starter away after the engine started. This one is a candidate for the Darwin Awards!, or at least a lesson on how NOT to do something!  Clamps can work, but you need the correct clamps and a correct clamping surface.
   Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee
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Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #7 on: February 04, 2021, 10:08:20 AM »
This one is a candidate for the Darwin Awards!, or at least a lesson on how NOT to do something!  Clamps can work, but you need the correct clamps and a correct clamping surface.

   At least he had the good sense to videotape it for our entertainment.

     A lot of people have no idea how much power and thrust even modest engines put out. I have seen stuff like this time after time. I sold an engine to a guy for R/C one time. Nothing particularly macho - an HB 40 PDP. He wants help starting it, so I go over to the house, and he has a Dave Brown mount - OK - screwed to the grain end of a 2x4 with #4 wood screws that go in about 1/2", clamped to a card table  in his garage. I talk him out of the card table and do something better for the engine mount, and clamp it with 2 c-clamps to his workbench. I warned him, "hey, all that stuff hanging up it going to get blown around", but we proceed. Start it up, not too bad at idle, he pushes the throttle to full, and it immediately blows all the stuff off the pegboard, and the card table gets picked up and and thrown up against the back wall of the garage.

   Another one, my dad modifies his old McCoy 29 to have a *much larger* venturi, like 3x as big. He mounts it on something, clamps it to the picnic table, fires it up with a Top Flite 10-3 1/2 nylon. He gets it started, and sets it at a medium 2, really cranking, and then we stand back and let it run. As the fuel runs down, it gets leaner and leaner and faster and faster, he's very pleased - and then the picnic table starts scooting across the patio, hits a joint in the concrete, and flips over.

     So, many people have no real appreciation of the kind of power or air blast you can get with these things, and I have seen stuff roughly equivalent to that video many times.

     Brett

p.s. The McCoy 29 was intended for a Top Flite Superform P-47 kit with about a 2-foot winspan, for me *at ~9 years old*, to fly. We built the airplane, put the old McCoy 29 in it, and I get sent out to fly it. About 15 seconds into the flight, I start panicking because I can't possibly hold on to this heavy beast at Warp 7, and in my mind, invent the safety thong. I start screaming for him to come get it, but fortunately it quits.

     

Offline Peter in Fairfax, VA

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #8 on: February 04, 2021, 11:20:19 AM »
Dan,

Thanks for writing "In Defense of Clamps."  You are right that clamps can work.  From one point of view, even engine hold down bolts are effectively clamps pressing on the lugs.

Peter

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #9 on: February 04, 2021, 12:46:50 PM »
The guy with the mounting fail needs lessons on starting engines.  I would talk to guys in the club about starting their engines with the electric finger.   You don't push the starter into the engine and keep it there.  If it don't fire within a cycle or two something is wrong.   I had to prove to them I could start an engine by hand faster than the starter.  Also I use the big C clamps and really tighten them down.   I even tighten them while engine is running.   By the way if guys would read instructions they would see you never or seldom ever start a throttled engine on full throttle.  The one time I had a failur on my engine test mount which is made out of aluminum blocks was when I fire up my K&B 40 on pressure for navy carrier and it threw a prop blade when I went to full throttle.  I was sure glad I was behind it as it sheared the bolts I thought was tight enough,

Really in the KC area Enya was not readily available at the shops I visited.   Also we had one being flown that was well broken in.  On its last flight it locked up and sent the propellor flying with the spinner.  The gentleman took it home and could not get it apart.   It was like the piston welded it self to the cylinder. D>K
John E. "DOC" Holliday
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Offline Dave_Trible

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #10 on: February 04, 2021, 01:21:12 PM »
Why not to use Enya engines?  Good question and I dunno.  I have a b$&t load of them now and only wish I’d have appreciated them many years ago.  As Doc mentioned they weren’t very common in our area hobby shops and usually very expensive compared to others.  Also I think in those days there was still a stigma about stuff made in Japan,  many of the hobbyists being WWII vets.  There is usually a good number still available on EBay.  RC versions are easily converted to CL.
In re the test stands,  one of our first larger engines was a Johnson .35.  Dad mounted it atop an old wooden sawhorse out in the garage and had me (about 10 yrs old) sit on the sawhorse.  When it fired up it began to drag the sawhorse and me across the slick garage floor.  Dad had to save me!

Dave
« Last Edit: February 04, 2021, 02:21:25 PM by Dave_Trible »
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Offline Brian Hampton

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #11 on: February 04, 2021, 05:25:13 PM »
Did they make a 40-50 size AAC glow?
Here's Enya's link to their CL engines,
https://www.enya-engine.com/ListCL_E.html
And to their RC engines,
https://www.enya-engine.com/ListAP2CYL_E.html

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #12 on: February 04, 2021, 08:30:34 PM »
Some good looking engines. D>K

And Dave T., you were not that big back then.  I remember the first contest I seen you in at the old Crysler Ball field. H^^
John E. "DOC" Holliday
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Offline Martin Quartim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #13 on: February 16, 2021, 09:02:16 PM »
I have used and tested many Enya Engines for CL

Here is my Youtube channel with many flights using Enya engines.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnVVxBWpPWYIWXVDq9zgNCA


here is an Enya SS45 pulling a BlueMax at 4700ft Density altitude.
Slow Setup

Normal

Hi-power setup, just to show the engine has plenty of power for the B.M.


Enya SS30 with a reduced version of the Pathfinder profile.



Martin

Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

https://www.youtube.com/user/martinSOLO

Online Paul Allen

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #14 on: February 17, 2021, 01:10:31 AM »
Martin
         What are the spec's for the slow setup,thanks.

Offline Oldenginerod

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #15 on: February 17, 2021, 02:07:41 AM »
Not a big fan of clamps.  Prefer screws, nails.

Not me:


Similar scenario, I was running my Red Head .29 full tilt in my home-made (it actually came out pretty good) wooden test stand.  The plates bearing down on the mounting lugs were pulled down tight with wing nuts on 1/4" bolts.  It was probably my first good run on one of these McCoys and man, was that thing screaming.  Then, I notice one of the wing nuts unscrewing itself with the vibration, then the other.  By this time I wasn't keen to try to shut the needle off as the engine was starting to pirouette on the stand.  I should have ripped the fuel line off, but it was too late.   It left the stand and as the fuel line pulled off it leaned out to peak and accelerated straight into the tin wall of my workshop about 10' away.  I was behind it of course.  I could hear small pieces of the (too) old nylon prop rattling all around the shed.  I didn't get hit thankfully.  The engine seemed to come out with only one marked head fin and still runs fine, but I'm sure to recheck those wing nuts right throughout any runs from then on.

Oh, and I don't need any replies telling me how stupid I was.  I know how stupid I was.   :!

Offline BillP

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #16 on: February 17, 2021, 07:57:03 AM »
That guy used wrong type clamp...A regular c clamp is light years better. I have 100s of bench runs using one 8" c clamp up to 60 size and never a problem. My stand is one of those aluminum Tatone /Jtec or whatever the current name is still sold by MECOA. It has roll pins for the lug holes in case the nuts get loose. Tighten with a wrench and is way tighter than could be done with fingers on wing nuts.
Bill P.

Offline GallopingGhostler

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #17 on: February 17, 2021, 09:47:44 AM »
Appears the engine flew right into him, that must have smarted, HB~> hope he didn't seriously injure himself, n1 especially with that very healthy diameter prop.  n~

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #18 on: February 17, 2021, 11:31:43 AM »
Similar scenario, I was running my Red Head .29 full tilt in my home-made (it actually came out pretty good) wooden test stand.  The plates bearing down on the mounting lugs were pulled down tight with wing nuts on 1/4" bolts.  It was probably my first good run on one of these McCoys and man, was that thing screaming.  Then, I notice one of the wing nuts unscrewing itself with the vibration, then the other.  By this time I wasn't keen to try to shut the needle off as the engine was starting to pirouette on the stand.  I should have ripped the fuel line off, but it was too late.   It left the stand and as the fuel line pulled off it leaned out to peak and accelerated straight into the tin wall of my workshop about 10' away.  I was behind it of course.  I could hear small pieces of the (too) old nylon prop rattling all around the shed.  I didn't get hit thankfully.  The engine seemed to come out with only one marked head fin and still runs fine, but I'm sure to recheck those wing nuts right throughout any runs from then on.

And if you don't replace those wing nuts I will send you my sign. D>K

Oh, and I don't need any replies telling me how stupid I was.  I know how stupid I was.   :!
John E. "DOC" Holliday
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AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.

Offline Martin Quartim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #19 on: February 18, 2021, 07:17:42 AM »
Martin
         What are the spec's for the slow setup,thanks.

Hi Paul,

Enya SS45 BB stock with stock muffler
Stock Brodak MW ATF 4.5oz fuel tank, use 3.9oz fuel
Enya Spiral Venturi 8.3mm
APC 12x4 prop
Byron 10/20 Tradicional Stock Fuel
Needle setting in the ground is a bit open from full 2 Stroke

The slow Setup i used a stock Dubro Large Exhaust Deflector for 60 90 engines
For the Normal Setup I cut the longest straight part of the Dubro Exhaust Deflector
The Power setup used no exhaust deflector

Changing the exhaust restriction I changed the power setting.

I am building a Thundergazer now and will mount the Enya SS45 in an angle so I can use it with a Tune Pipe, This engine is very light with 289g, cheap, strong, long lasting, fuel efficient and works very well with a cheap APC prop... so I am pretty happy with it.

Total weight of the engine, header, pipe, fuel tank, 12x3.75 3 Blade prop and Brodak Aluminum Spinner  503g

Martin
« Last Edit: February 18, 2021, 12:44:53 PM by Martin Quartim »
Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

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Offline kevin king

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #20 on: February 18, 2021, 02:44:22 PM »
Meh. Test stands are for Sissies. Tough guys just hold the engine in their hand. 😁

Offline Dave Moritz

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #21 on: February 18, 2021, 08:01:25 PM »
Regarding the OP's question, I've got a pair of projects on the workbench thanks to Phil Cartier. Two of his foam wings, scaled down plans from his RST, and a pair of Enya 15s. I'll find out soon what kind of challenge it'll be installing fuel tanks. Might have to consider in-board mounting.

Dave Mo...
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Online Paul Allen

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #22 on: February 19, 2021, 02:49:03 AM »
Thanks Martin.

Offline Steve Helmick

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #23 on: February 19, 2021, 04:21:55 PM »
The whole problem with Enya engines here in the USA has always been with distributors, IMO. For a long time, "MRC" was the importer/distributor and of course were advertised as 100% R/C, whether that was true or not, IDK. Can't think of another importer, until Randy Smith sold some Enya engines and parts. No idea what his situation was, but after awhile, they appeared to be gone.

It sounds like  Enya sells direct and that's about our only source, other than a guy on eBay..."Shutterman", I think. I don't do eBay, so there's that. If he wanted to sell some Enya engines and parts, maybe he should set up an office in Stunt Hangar's Vendor's Section? Somebody might put that idea to him and see what happens.   y1 Steve
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Offline Dave Hull

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #24 on: February 20, 2021, 12:08:53 AM »
Dave Moe,

I see you've got a YenYaa .15-III there.  I just bolted one onto a rebuilt Magician. I haven't had a chance to even run it yet. It feels like a runner, but not sure if it has been fully broken in yet. You'll have to let us know what your setup is and what works. After your tundra thaws out. And the snowmobiler's get offen yer circle.

Stay warm, brother

The Divot


Stock(?) venturi
Zinger 8x6 reworked and APC 7x5 props to try first
Standard vent tank that looks like about 1-1/2 flowing ozzies (which seems far too small)

Offline Martin Quartim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #25 on: February 23, 2021, 12:48:32 PM »

The complain No 1 about Enya Engines is because they are hard to start and break in when new. That is true for the Iron Engines like the Enya 15III,  Enya 19, Enya 35III  and some of the Schnuerle ones like the Enya SS25/30 and 40.

However if you apply the steps below you will have a strong, 1st flip, reliable and long lasting engine in no time!

When the engine is new and it comes extra tight from Enya it will be harder to start (to much resistance to turn) but the harder to get started the better compression and power it will have.

These are the steps I do to break in Enya Iron Engines that has been working very very well for me .  All it takes is about an hour and a half of running time.

First Phase – Thermal Treating
I do 10 short runs of 1min with the needle set so the engine  burbling between 4/2, letting the engine totally cool between runs. Then 8 short runs of 2 min and 6 of 3min (perhaps the 6x3min is not necessary but I do it anyway)

Second Phase - Unleashing the Power
3 runs of 6 minutes with the same needle setting as in phase 1. Depending on how tight the engine is it may require more runs the same way.  Never had to do more then 5 times. I pinch the fuel line with care to make the engine keep at peak rpm for 8 to 10 seconds, then I release the fuel line, wait for about 25s and repeat the process until the end. The top rpm improves significantly in this stage. I call the engine ready to fly when I see that there is no more gain in the peak rpm. At this point as soon as I release the fuel line the rpm returns back immediately to the set rpm.

If you break in just letting the engine run rich and don't peak it out, it will never break-in and develop good power. You will mistakenly think it is a lame engine!

Of course these steps are not for Ring, ABC or AAC Enya Engines, only for those with Iron P/L.


Martin
Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

https://www.youtube.com/user/martinSOLO

Offline Martin Quartim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #26 on: February 23, 2021, 12:53:43 PM »
Dave Moe,

I see you've got a YenYaa .15-III there.  I just bolted one onto a rebuilt Magician. I haven't had a chance to even run it yet. It feels like a runner, but not sure if it has been fully broken in yet. You'll have to let us know what your setup is and what works. After your tundra thaws out. And the snowmobiler's get offen yer circle.

Stay warm, brother

The Divot


Stock(?) venturi
Zinger 8x6 reworked and APC 7x5 props to try first
Standard vent tank that looks like about 1-1/2 flowing ozzies (which seems far too small)

I suggest you try a 9x4 prop with the Enya 15III.

Martin
Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

https://www.youtube.com/user/martinSOLO

Offline GallopingGhostler

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #27 on: February 23, 2021, 02:14:42 PM »
I've used a Masters 8x6 prop on my Enya .15-III TV, throttle wired wide open unmuffled on a Sterling 30" Junior Ringmaster. Amazed me, will do a wet-2 to lean-2 when entering stunts, return to wet-2. It pulls as strong with that setup as when I had an OS Max .15FP-S Schneurle and a Masters 8x4 prop.

Offline Dave Hull

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #28 on: February 23, 2021, 09:18:37 PM »
Thanks for the info guys. Will try to prep a couple more props for testing day....

The Divot

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #29 on: February 23, 2021, 10:04:47 PM »
What do you think of the 5224 35's . round intake p. b. , for a TWIN . what props . Theyre pretty mint . Inverted mounting .

Offline De Hill

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #30 on: February 23, 2021, 10:15:08 PM »
Some of the older Enya's had metric sized cranks that were larger than 1/4" diameter.
You had to drill out your props to fit that metric crank before you could use them.
That is one reason that lessened their popularity.
De Hill

Offline BillP

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #31 on: February 24, 2021, 05:13:21 AM »
Some of the older Enya's had metric sized cranks that were larger than 1/4" diameter.
You had to drill out your props to fit that metric crank before you could use them.
That is one reason that lessened their popularity.

That's the main reason I didn't buy enya back in the 1990s when flying rc. 
Bill P.

Offline Dave Moritz

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #32 on: February 24, 2021, 09:09:01 AM »
That's a fine looking ship you've got there, Brother Divot. FYI, this winter's cold has gotten to the gristle between my bones, so that's why I'm so late getting back to you.

My problem on the two "RST 15" trainers is tank placement and capacity. So far, I'm planning to use Brodak ounce and a quarter critters while cutting a bit into the foam wings for fit. These ships might be smaller than yours, so I'll use 8x4 props and hope for lighter fuel draw. Seeing that they are trainers, short and risky flights will be the order of the day anyway. They'll likely "land" with fuel to spare.

Dave Moe (oh, wishing I had his hair)...
It’s a very strange world we live in, Master Jack.” (4 Jacks and a Jill)

Offline Dave Hull

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #33 on: February 24, 2021, 07:06:42 PM »
Dave Moe,

Sorry to hear about the frozen gristle. That sounds kinda painful....

I couldn't find a ready to hand picture of the RST planes, but am imagining some foam wingage with some top 'n bottom wood spars. I think guys commonly notch the wing back as far as they need to go to fit their tank in. They sure did on a bunch of combat jobs.  Hope you get yours all set up while the house is warm and there's no point in going outside....

Those things ought to be perfect for thrashing around and learning to fly any maneuver without fear. Probably would have helped me with my flying. Probably could still help my flying....

Dunno how big those RSTs are, but the Maggie 15 has a 34" span and probably 250 square ouches, for a comparison.

Might have to break down and run the YenYaa before I take it out to the field. That would be the smart thing to do. Of course, that never keeps me from doing something else....

The Divot
"Cheapest Prices In Town on Concrete Demolition--One Crankshaft At A Time"

PS--Dunno about Moe's hairs. I know that after a year of cutting my own hair while looking in a mirror I'm kind of over worrying about how it looks. Which, perversely, seems to get better with each attempt. Maybe it is an exception to the rule about practice...or something like that.


Offline Dave Moritz

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #34 on: February 25, 2021, 09:53:25 PM »
Divot:

Truth be told, the "RST 15" doesn't exist - it's just a scaled down version of Phil's regular RST using one of his combat wings (yes, with the top and bottom wooden spars). The span is 40 inches with 220 square inches doing the heavy lifting.

Speaking of heavy, the Enya 15-IV is just too bulky for this model, so I'll go with a 15-III for each plane. Will save the 15-IV for something less likely to be trashed.

I appreciate Martin giving us his howdy-do on break-in for these little gems. Both of my motors appear to have very low run time and don't seem capable of peaking yet, so work needs to be done using Martin's procedure. Give your mill a test run and let me know what you think. I ran one in the cold garage this evening (hair dryer for heat). If we get into a long-winded motor discussion, perhaps we should start a topic on the Enya 15 over on the Engines board?

Spare the crank, my friend.

Dave Moe...

PS: Thank goodness for cold motors. My hair dryer's designed purpose hasn't been exercised in many a Moon!

D...

 
It’s a very strange world we live in, Master Jack.” (4 Jacks and a Jill)

Offline Brett Buck

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #35 on: February 26, 2021, 10:11:03 AM »
What (very) little I know about Enya engines, particularly the plain-bearing types in stunt, is that Martin is right - you cannot scrimp on the break-in. They are made to extremely tight tolerances, probably tighter than ideal for our purposes. One very important factor in getting a good 4-2 transition is having low drag in the bearing section. If you get the opportunity, you should try rocking the prop back and forth on a Discovery-Retro 60, it is uncanny how freely it moves through bottom dead center. Any break-in had to make sure that the bearing is extremely free, and with the very tight tolerances and superior materials (compared to the usual Fox/McCoy cheapies etc) it takes an eternity for it to loosen up on an Enya.

    Most people give up long before it gets to the ideal condition. Almost all of them that I see have been around for decades, and with cursory break-in to just get it safe to fly, and occasional sport use, they are still far too tight for best performance in stunt.   Same thing affects the Fox, but since those are all over the place, some are too tight, some are too loose, every once in a while they come out right.

    Brett

Offline Gerald Arana

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #36 on: February 26, 2021, 11:02:14 AM »
Meh. Test stands are for Sissies. Tough guys just hold the engine in their hand. 😁

I've done that.......................................with 1/2A's.  LL~ LL~

Jerry

PS: Love to hear that TeeDee 010 screaming n my hand!

Offline Gerald Arana

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #37 on: February 26, 2021, 11:05:21 AM »
Regarding the OP's question, I've got a pair of projects on the workbench thanks to Phil Cartier. Two of his foam wings, scaled down plans from his RST, and a pair of Enya 15s. I'll find out soon what kind of challenge it'll be installing fuel tanks. Might have to consider in-board mounting.

Dave Mo...

Dave, Bad idea. I bought an airplane with an inboard engine and I took 4 oz's out of the OB wing when I converted it to an OB engine.

Good luck, Jerry

Offline Dave Moritz

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #38 on: February 26, 2021, 11:41:26 AM »
OK, Jerry. Will just have to take a bit of a bite out of the foam wings OB and rely on some tail weights.

Thanks for the warning.

Dave Moe...
It’s a very strange world we live in, Master Jack.” (4 Jacks and a Jill)

Offline Dave Hull

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #39 on: February 26, 2021, 05:04:52 PM »
Wait, do we have a communication issue here?

The question was about an inboard tank, not an inboard engine, right?

The Divot

Offline Dave Moritz

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #40 on: February 26, 2021, 06:34:42 PM »
Spot on, Sir Divot!

What a strange critter the 15-III has been to get started. It took a long while to figure out the formula, but I can do it in one or two flips now. Lots of break-in still needed though.

Dave Moe...

It’s a very strange world we live in, Master Jack.” (4 Jacks and a Jill)

Offline Leonard Bourel

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #41 on: February 27, 2021, 06:44:58 AM »
I have been running Enyas since I started in this hobby (1976) The reason I dont run them anymore is that they are just too much of a PIA They require too much break in They are too finiky  They run good then they dont run good Some of the newer SS ones seam to run better  except it seams hard to keep the power that they have under control So too me they are not great stunt engines To those who love them all the best but I am working at selling or giving away the last of my Enyas I will not miss them !!!

Offline Brent Williams

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #42 on: February 27, 2021, 11:17:37 AM »
This isn't my plane or my video, but this reissue Enya 35-III ,sure sounds great in this Tucker Special!   (edited for accuracy)

The engine is the plain bearing version, running the small square venturi, low-comp head, and the old-style stock strap-on muffler. 
Fuel is 5% nitro, 11% castor and 11% synthetic. 
APC 10.5 x 4.5. Launched at 10K rpm.
45oz airplane.

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Offline Dave Moritz

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #43 on: February 27, 2021, 11:39:35 AM »
Martin (and any others here in the know):

With the Enya 15-III, am running low nitro and 20% all castor oil. Once break-in is complete, I hope to run 5% nitro and 22% oil in a blend of half castor and half synthetic. Has anyone had any experience indicating that this blend of oil could be a disaster for the engine I've worked so hard to get broken in?

Thanks.

Dave Moe...
It’s a very strange world we live in, Master Jack.” (4 Jacks and a Jill)

Offline Steve Thomas

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #44 on: February 27, 2021, 03:05:25 PM »
This isn't my plane or my video, but this reissue Enya 35-III bb sure sounds great in this Tucker Special! 

The engine is running the small venturi, low-comp head, and the old-style stock strap-on muffler.  Fuel is 5% nitro, 11% castor and 11% synthetic.  APC 10.5 x 4.5.

Hey, that’s mine! I don’t think I even knew there was a video of it out there. To clarify, it’s the regular plain bearing version, not the bb one. From memory, the break-in was similar to what Martin suggests. Certainly no great drama, and didn’t take hours of running or gallons of fuel. I find it a very easy engine to get on with, and would happily recommend it (or the more modern SS series for that matter - I’ve been very happy with the SS25/30/45).

Dave, I doubt that it would be any problem to run your engine on that brew, although the smaller Enyas seem to like more nitro (10-15%). I use 25% all castor in the OS35S, which I’d consider a bit less robust, but otherwise 11/11 does just fine in any of my other iron/steel engines. I’ve heard of people using 28% castor in Enyas ‘because they’re iron/steel like a Fox 35’, but they really don’t need it and from what I understand, don’t run as well with that much oil. They are a very hard engine to kill.

Offline Dave Moritz

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #45 on: February 28, 2021, 08:05:06 AM »
Steve:

Thank-you for the reply, and good to hear that they are robust. Somehow I managed to kill off a 15-III with an unknown fuel mix; won't do that again.

Dave Moe...
It’s a very strange world we live in, Master Jack.” (4 Jacks and a Jill)

Offline Martin Quartim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #46 on: March 07, 2021, 05:51:34 PM »
Martin (and any others here in the know):

With the Enya 15-III, am running low nitro and 20% all castor oil. Once break-in is complete, I hope to run 5% nitro and 22% oil in a blend of half castor and half synthetic. Has anyone had any experience indicating that this blend of oil could be a disaster for the engine I've worked so hard to get broken in?

Thanks.

Dave Moe...

Hi Dave,

I do the break-in with 0% nitro and all castor oil but then I fly with Byron 10/20 Blend Fuel with added high-quality castor oil to get to 23~25%

Martin
Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

https://www.youtube.com/user/martinSOLO

Offline Dennis Moritz

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #47 on: March 08, 2021, 12:01:34 AM »
I give Enyas a try now and then. Down on power compared to FP40s or Tower40s, or for the less adventurous, LA 46s. At Brodak one year an Enya ss40 wouldn't pull my Prowler with authority. It appeared broken in. Did not overheat in a two stroke, two stroke run. Folks got on me for running over lean trying to get the power up. This was using recommended props. Even slightly over lean the engine did not seem tight. FP40s and the like could be tuned to get the Prowler to work. Plenty of power. On the other hand, the Tucker and Pathfinder look good. Perhaps the engine I was running was not broken in. Prowler was porky. 46 ounces. No need to be that heavy. The old Enyas were used in race events at one time. Team race? When profile racing happens in our area, always a few folks asking for old Enyas. Guess they're powerful when compared to their contemporaries.

Offline GERALD WIMMER

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #48 on: March 08, 2021, 03:49:10 AM »
Hello

Enya 29's are still popular here in NZ for Vintage B class team race and I currently have 2 models with Enya 29 on them. Nothing like a nice well run in Enya 29 model 5224 for reliable but not stunning power . A tight one without much running does try your patience. Have a SS40 plain bearing on an old stunt trainer that my oldest son fly's but it is no powerhouse just a good plodder that gets the job done and it does get hot if pushed too hard .
Regards Gerald

Offline Martin Quartim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #49 on: March 08, 2021, 04:13:45 AM »
I give Enyas a try now and then. Down on power compared to FP40s or Tower40s, or for the less adventurous, LA 46s. At Brodak one year an Enya ss40 wouldn't pull my Prowler with authority. It appeared broken in. Did not overheat in a two stroke, two stroke run. Folks got on me for running over lean trying to get the power up. This was using recommended props. Even slightly over lean the engine did not seem tight. FP40s and the like could be tuned to get the Prowler to work. Plenty of power. On the other hand, the Tucker and Pathfinder look good. Perhaps the engine I was running was not broken in. Prowler was porky. 46 ounces. No need to be that heavy. The old Enyas were used in race events at one time. Team race? When profile racing happens in our area, always a few folks asking for old Enyas. Guess they're powerful when compared to their contemporaries.

Hi Denis,

Here the Enya SS40 has proven to be quite stronger than 46LA and FP40. I tested the Enya SS45 with my 66oz Blue Max and it worked amazingly well with plenty of authority. I see no reason I could not do the same with an Enya SS40 and fly my thick wing BlueMax.

Your SS40 is probably not fully broken-in  or you did not set it up right. The Enya have higher timing than OS and it does not work well with 6 pitch props. 

I suggest you put your SS40 through the Second Break In Phase I described above.

Enya ships the SS40 with a 7.0mm venturi, but they sell 7.5, 8.0 and 8.5mm venturi for it. An Enya SS40 with an 8.5mm optional venturi and an APC 12x4 in 2-2-2 will power a 60 size model with a Fantastic Result!

Bill Draper of England using an Enya SS40 won many European Championships and got 9th place at the World Championship.

Martin


« Last Edit: March 08, 2021, 04:54:03 AM by Martin Quartim »
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Offline Dennis Moritz

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #50 on: March 08, 2021, 08:03:29 AM »
I was using an 11x4, I believe. On the advice of someone with a rep. Perhaps it was not broken in. It ran smoothly. Didn't lock up. Didn't run hot when run in it's comfortable appearing rpm range. Just down on power. Could be it had a small venturi. FPs need low pitch props so rpms can run where they need to. Never a 6 pitch, don't think I own a 6 pitch or 5 pitch prop for that matter, except some Fox props. Yes. Bet it had a smaller venturi. Engine behaved like that. It's sitting on a shelf where I know it is. Easy enough to check venturi size and try again sometime.

Offline Skip Chernoff

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #51 on: March 08, 2021, 05:33:46 PM »
The Enya 40SS is a very powereful engine.In fact I use one in my back up R/C Club 40 racing plane. I do run it in the high 15K rev range and have broken 2 conrods over 4 racing seasons. The rod becomes a "maintenence" item. Unlike some of my other racing engines I have never worn out the piston or liner.Under "stunt" conditions it would last a very long time. I'd use a 10.5x 4.5 APC and let it run where it wants to. Control the lap time with line length.........Just my 2 cents.....PhillySkip

Offline Skip Chernoff

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #52 on: March 08, 2021, 05:36:30 PM »
Dennis I believe that your engine wasn't broken in. The Enya 40ss is waaaay more powerful than the engines you listed....not even close really.

Offline Dennis Moritz

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #53 on: March 08, 2021, 06:15:33 PM »
Well. We'll take it out and see. What size intake are you using? That could well be the issue. Is it an RC Carb? Yes. The magic prop was tried. More power than the flexing 11x4. But not enough.

Offline Chris Brainard

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #54 on: March 08, 2021, 07:13:49 PM »
I became a fan of Enya’s about five years ago when I bought an SS 45 off eBay on a whim. It was listed as having a broken carb with a buy it now price of $25.00. Concerned that the case might be damaged I contacted the seller who assured me the only damage was to the carb...so I bought it. When it was delivered, I was disappointed that it was pretty heavy. At this point, there wasn’t much else to do but try it. I made a Delrin venturi and mounted it to a T-Rex that weighed about 60 oz., replacing a Super Tiger 60. Prop was a APC 12 x 5. I really wasn’t expecting much, maybe some really big loops. The first flight surprised me with how easily it pulled the plane, although it quickly became apparent the APC was too much prop. On the next flight I switched to an APC 12 x 4 and it really came alive, flying the T-Rex effortlessly, in fact, it was the best engine I had flown on that model. I liked it enough that I bought 6 more of the SS.45’s and two each of the SS.50’s and SS.40’s. I have an SS.45 on both my Pathfinder and my Roadrunner as well as an SS.30 on my Ringmaster which has been competitive at both Brodak’s and VSC. My Pathfinder weighs 50 oz. and has been flown with the SS.40 also. Our home flying field is at 6000 ft above sea level so there is a definite loss of power and lift at our elevation. I’ve been very pleased with how well the Enyas run. My flying buddy likes his too. He’s also running the SS.45.

Another Enya I really like is the Enya .45 model 6001. If you like the 4-2 style run, this one’s a real sweetheart.

As far as power is concerned, from my experience, an LA.46 isn’t even in the same league as the Enya SS.45 (and I’ve got 7 or 8 of the LA’s).
Chris

Offline Martin Quartim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #55 on: March 09, 2021, 02:52:33 PM »
I became a fan of Enya’s about five years ago when I bought an SS 45 off eBay on a whim. It was listed as having a broken carb with a buy it now price of $25.00. Concerned that the case might be damaged I contacted the seller who assured me the only damage was to the carb...so I bought it. When it was delivered, I was disappointed that it was pretty heavy. At this point, there wasn’t much else to do but try it. I made a Delrin venturi and mounted it to a T-Rex that weighed about 60 oz., replacing a Super Tiger 60. Prop was a APC 12 x 5. I really wasn’t expecting much, maybe some really big loops. The first flight surprised me with how easily it pulled the plane, although it quickly became apparent the APC was too much prop. On the next flight I switched to an APC 12 x 4 and it really came alive, flying the T-Rex effortlessly, in fact, it was the best engine I had flown on that model. I liked it enough that I bought 6 more of the SS.45’s and two each of the SS.50’s and SS.40’s. I have an SS.45 on both my Pathfinder and my Roadrunner as well as an SS.30 on my Ringmaster which has been competitive at both Brodak’s and VSC. My Pathfinder weighs 50 oz. and has been flown with the SS.40 also. Our home flying field is at 6000 ft above sea level so there is a definite loss of power and lift at our elevation. I’ve been very pleased with how well the Enyas run. My flying buddy likes his too. He’s also running the SS.45.

Another Enya I really like is the Enya .45 model 6001. If you like the 4-2 style run, this one’s a real sweetheart.

As far as power is concerned, from my experience, an LA.46 isn’t even in the same league as the Enya SS.45 (and I’ve got 7 or 8 of the LA’s).
Chris

Hi Chris,

the Enya SS45 and SS50 with 2 BB are not heavy, quite the contrary, at at 9.1Oz they are the lightest in the category. I doubt there is any engine in this size, and power, with the same light weight.  The Muffler is a bit heavy and big, but you can get lighter ones.

There is also  an Enya SS45 Plain Bearing and it is the same weight or lighter than 46LA, except the stock muffler which is about 20g heavier.

Good to see other people enjoying the engines I like the most!


Martin
p.s. try to score an Enya 45X, 40CX or 45CX these are best ones! they are AAC
Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

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Offline Brian Hampton

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #56 on: March 09, 2021, 06:29:39 PM »
Another Enya I really like is the Enya .45 model 6001.
Have to agree there. Back in the late 60's I stepped up from my Merco 35 to a 6001. This of course was the first version with twin rings but Enya switched to a single ring in about '71 in line with their newly released 60-IIIB. Back in the day one of our top fliers asked me how I got it to run like his ST 46 so I told him all I did was fill the tank, flip once and fly. IOW it was totally bog standard. When the 6002 was released I bought one but it was nowhere near as good for stunt (heavier and different timings) so put the 6001 back in again. Next upgrade wasn't until the late 90's to a G51.

Offline Chris Brainard

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #57 on: March 09, 2021, 09:06:52 PM »
Hi Martin,
Once I realized what kind of performance the SS .45 had, I realized that it was actually a very light engine in comparison to other engines with similar performance. Initially, when I bought my first one, my expectation was that it might be similar in performance to an LA.46, hence my first reaction of being disappointed by the weight. After flying it, I realized what I had. Obviously, I got over my disappointment pretty fast since I bought a whole bunch more! Truth be known, it was one of your write ups singing praises of the engine that convinced me to buy my first one. The information you gave regarding props was spot on. I have bought several of the CX engines (.40, .45, .50, and .61) but not flown them yet. They are heavier than the SS versions.

So far, I’ve been very pleased with the Enyas, especially the SS.45.
Chris

Offline Martin Quartim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #58 on: March 10, 2021, 07:53:51 PM »
Hi Martin,
Once I realized what kind of performance the SS .45 had, I realized that it was actually a very light engine in comparison to other engines with similar performance. Initially, when I bought my first one, my expectation was that it might be similar in performance to an LA.46, hence my first reaction of being disappointed by the weight. After flying it, I realized what I had. Obviously, I got over my disappointment pretty fast since I bought a whole bunch more! Truth be known, it was one of your write ups singing praises of the engine that convinced me to buy my first one. The information you gave regarding props was spot on. I have bought several of the CX engines (.40, .45, .50, and .61) but not flown them yet. They are heavier than the SS versions.

So far, I’ve been very pleased with the Enyas, especially the SS.45.
Chris

I am glad to hear about your experience!


Martin
Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

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Offline Martin Quartim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #59 on: March 10, 2021, 08:12:57 PM »

Not many people know that Enya pioneered AAC Engines.


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Offline Brian Hampton

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #60 on: March 11, 2021, 07:51:07 PM »
Not many people know that Enya pioneered AAC Engines.
Their first one was the 60X. There were a couple of earlier engines (I think YS was one) but they were also ringed whereas the 60X was a true AAC.

Offline Brent Williams

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #61 on: March 11, 2021, 09:35:25 PM »
That's kinda funny they went to all that trouble to make it AAC and made no attempt to lighten the muffler or carb.


Motorman 8)

If that muffler is anything like the mufflers on the Enya SS25/30, then they are probably incredibly light.
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Offline Martin Quartim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #62 on: March 12, 2021, 03:09:52 PM »
If that muffler is anything like the mufflers on the Enya SS25/30, then they are probably incredibly light.


The muffler weight is 2.7oz

Martin
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Offline Joe Ed Pederson

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #64 on: May 04, 2021, 12:19:54 PM »
Spot on, Sir Divot!

What a strange critter the 15-III has been to get started. It took a long while to figure out the formula, but I can do it in one or two flips now. Lots of break-in still needed though.

Dave Moe...

Please share the formula.  I'm breaking in a 15-III and I can get it started within 60 seconds, but I'm never sure when it's going to start.  It might be easier to start in an upright position, but I'm using a Sig Akromaster and a stooge as the run-in stand.  I never get a "bump," sometimes hear the glow plug (Enya #3) "sizzling," and the prop frequently stops in midstroke when I flip it (chicken stick).

I'm using Martin's break-in program and am at the last two three minute runs.  Prop is an APC 9x4 and the fuel is 10% nitro and 20% straight castor.

If it were an old OS Max iron engine I would think the motor broken in.  It feels as free as a broken in engine when you rock the prop back and forth.

I have another new 15-III that was given to me in the case with both venturis and all the paperwork.  It is very tight and has a "catch" when the piston comes from bottom dead center and the top of the piston gets about an eight of an inch above the top of the exhaust port.  Once past the point where the piston "sticks/catches" the piston feels free for the rest of the stroke.     Is this what people mean when they say that new Enyas are tight or is this a real problem?  I haven't run this engine yet.

Thanks,
Joe Ed Pederson
Cuba, MO

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #65 on: May 04, 2021, 03:32:37 PM »
If it is tight at the top that is good.  Just don't flip it dry.  When running for break in use a tach and if it starts to sag richen it.  I don't know what the reccommended prop and RPM the instructions call for but if it will hold a setting put it in the air with a slightly rich setting and see how it runs out the tank.  If it does sound a little tight fly it as close to the ground as you can.   This is when flying over grass helps as I have had to set it down into the grass to stop the engine.  Don't try it with wood props though. D>K
John E. "DOC" Holliday
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Offline BOB ALLAN

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« Last Edit: May 07, 2021, 06:52:57 PM by BOB ALLAN »

Offline Chris Wilson

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #67 on: May 04, 2021, 07:37:13 PM »
Martin, quick question.
Do the ringed Enyas have cylinder taper?
If not, and I have read about reworked ones that aim for parallel bores, then this maybe one reason 'not' to choose  one.
Chris.
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Offline Brian Hampton

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #68 on: May 05, 2021, 05:44:02 PM »
I have another new 15-III.........  It is very tight and has a "catch" when the piston comes from bottom dead center and the top of the piston gets about an eight of an inch above the top of the exhaust port.  Once past the point where the piston "sticks/catches" the piston feels free for the rest of the stroke.
Open up the compendium from Bob's link above and scroll down to the bottom of page 62. This may be the cause of the binding. Be aware the screws are JIS, not Phillips.

Offline Joe Ed Pederson

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #69 on: May 05, 2021, 07:33:16 PM »
Open up the compendium from Bob's link above and scroll down to the bottom of page 62. This may be the cause of the binding. Be aware the screws are JIS, not Phillips.

Brian,

Wow!   I would never have guessed that that was the problem.   I had downloaded and saved Bob's Compendium, but I hadn't read anything but the pages on the description of the 15-III.  In the description of the cause of the problem, it said a quick email to Enya would get you a new crankcase, but I went to the Enya website and it didn't appear that the carry the parts for an engine that old.

The engine was free so, it isn't a great loss.

I recently became aware that the reason it is so difficult to work with the screws on OS and Enya engines was the screws were designed to Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS).  One of these days I'm going to order a set of JIS Screwdrivers.

Thanks for the intel.

Joe Ed Pederson

Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #70 on: May 05, 2021, 07:41:50 PM »
Brian,

Wow!   I would never have guessed that that was the problem.   I had downloaded and saved Bob's Compendium, but I hadn't read anything but the pages on the description of the 15-III.  In the description of the cause of the problem, it said a quick email to Enya would get you a new crankcase, but I went to the Enya website and it didn't appear that the carry the parts for an engine that old.

The engine was free so, it isn't a great loss.

I recently became aware that the reason it is so difficult to work with the screws on OS and Enya engines was the screws were designed to Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS).  One of these days I'm going to order a set of JIS Screwdrivers.

Thanks for the intel.

Joe Ed Pederson

    Ed, don't put off that purchase too long for the JIS screw drivers. They do make one heck of a difference. I learned that back in my old motorcycle days working on Japanese bikes, and in recent history picked up a set of the brand that Brett Buck was recommending. I also investigated and found some replacement bits for one of my multi bit screw drivers. These came from a aftermarket company called Motion -Pro and they had them in #1, #2 and #3 JIS configuration. They came two in a package and were just a few bucks a package. I use the #3 on some motorcycles but you would never use one that big on a model engine. The #1 and #2 are all you need.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee
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Offline Joe Ed Pederson

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #71 on: May 06, 2021, 10:12:40 AM »
    Ed, don't put off that purchase too long for the JIS screw drivers. They do make one heck of a difference. I learned that back in my old motorcycle days working on Japanese bikes, and in recent history picked up a set of the brand that Brett Buck was recommending. I also investigated and found some replacement bits for one of my multi bit screw drivers. These came from a aftermarket company called Motion -Pro and they had them in #1, #2 and #3 JIS configuration. They came two in a package and were just a few bucks a package. I use the #3 on some motorcycles but you would never use one that big on a model engine. The #1 and #2 are all you need.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

Thanks, Dan.   It is good to know I only need the #1 and #2.   I'll order them today.  [Edit]: I ordered two sets of two #1  and two sets of two #2 from Pro-Motion.   They were $3.99 for each set of two.

Joe Ed
« Last Edit: May 06, 2021, 04:02:13 PM by Joe Ed Pederson »

Offline Gary Dowler

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #72 on: May 06, 2021, 01:48:29 PM »
Not a big fan of clamps.  Prefer screws, nails.

Not me:



Oh my!!  Bet that got his attention!  My local hobby shop told me of a guy who would start engines, up to 60’s, by simply holding on to the motor by hand.  Not this guy!!!!

Gary
Profanity is the crutch of the illiterate mind

Offline Dave Hull

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #73 on: December 31, 2021, 11:48:21 PM »
Ok, I'll try some follow-up here regarding the Enya .15-III since a good amount of discussion above is relevant. I'm having no luck with the Enya .15-III on a Magician 15. A picture of the plane was shown in the thread above. Unfortunately, the engine is either a shaker, or the nose of the plane is soft.  (Or the frequency of the shaking force is sitting right on top of the first bending mode....)

Is the Enya .15-III known to be a shaker? I see the full disk crank is cut pretty well for counterbalancing. I didn't want to pull the drive hub off to check the static balance (crank plus 50% rod approximation) before I think about it some more.

The problem is not real amenable to "swap and see" testing. No other engines I know of (except the old Supertigres?) have the same bolt pattern. Would have liked to try the OS .15LA, which is pretty civilized, and I have it on hand. I don't have a Brodak, so not sure of the bolt pattern and bearer spacing....

Before we all go down the rabbit hole, yes, the prop balance was carefully checked; the hole was a close fit; and, no spinner was used; real mounting bolts were used and tightened, etc.

It's a nice little plane, but not worth it to me to chop the nose off to rebuild it. Done too many nosejobs on OPPs (Other People's Planes) the last few years to volunteer to go there....

Dave

Offline GERALD WIMMER

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #74 on: January 01, 2022, 04:20:15 AM »
Hello Dave I have used the Enya MkIV's on a Goodyear racer and combat wing and both are smooth performers . I think you will find the Enya Mk II, III and IV have the same bolt pattern which they happen to share with Rossi and Nelson 15's.

Regards Gerald

Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #75 on: January 01, 2022, 09:19:08 AM »

Before we all go down the rabbit hole, yes, the prop balance was carefully checked; the hole was a close fit; and, no spinner was used; real mounting bolts were used and tightened, etc.

It's a nice little plane, but not worth it to me to chop the nose off to rebuild it. Done too many nosejobs on OPPs (Other People's Planes) the last few years to volunteer to go there....

Dave

    What prop are you using? If APC make sure the hole is centered. I have seen props come from them with the holes molded off center. You can sand the blades until the cows come home but that won't help with an off center hole.
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Offline GallopingGhostler

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #76 on: January 01, 2022, 04:49:42 PM »
Ok, I'll try some follow-up here regarding the Enya .15-III since a good amount of discussion above is relevant. I'm having no luck with the Enya .15-III on a Magician 15. A picture of the plane was shown in the thread above. Unfortunately, the engine is either a shaker, or the nose of the plane is soft.  (Or the frequency of the shaking force is sitting right on top of the first bending mode....)

Is the Enya .15-III known to be a shaker? I see the full disk crank is cut pretty well for counterbalancing. I didn't want to pull the drive hub off to check the static balance (crank plus 50% rod approximation) before I think about it some more.

Dave, I can only speak of my limited experiences of testing the Enya .15-III TV with throttle wired wide open on a Junior Ringmaster. I swapped out the OS Max .15-FP (with OEM venturi / NVA) and the Enya. Did not require re-drilling engine mount holes. I didn't notice any unusual shake, seems to be well balanced. With a 8x6 Masters prop, was attaining the same lap speeds as with the OS and 8x4 Masters prop. Plus, it was capable of wet-2, lean-2 cycling in and out of stunts on 60' lines.

Similar to the OS without muffler, it made the Rm.Jr. nose heavy, an engine of an ounce less would have been better. Since the Magician 15 has more wing area, probably a better match for its airframe.

If you have exceptional shake, it is probably something else going on with the engine.

The problem is not real amenable to "swap and see" testing. No other engines I know of (except the old Supertigres?) have the same bolt pattern. Would have liked to try the OS .15LA, which is pretty civilized, and I have it on hand. I don't have a Brodak, so not sure of the bolt pattern and bearer spacing.... Before we all go down the rabbit hole, yes, the prop balance was carefully checked; the hole was a close fit; and, no spinner was used; real mounting bolts were used and tightened, etc.

I don't think there is too much difference between the OS .15 FP and LA. Might be worth a try, seems a simple trial fix and a way to get some hours on the Magician airframe until you can sort out the Enya problems.

Offline 944_Jim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #77 on: January 01, 2022, 05:43:02 PM »
[quote author=Dan McEntee  These came from a aftermarket company called Motion -Pro and they had them in #1, #2 and #3 JIS configuration. They came two in a package and were just a few bucks a package. I use the #3 on some motorcycles but you would never use one that big on a model engine. The #1 and #2 are all you need.
[/quote]

Dan, my youngest son and I are getting ready to peel apart my Honda S-90. Have you used the tips in a hammer-driven impact wrench? Or are these marketed only for screwdriver application? Amazon doesn't indicate they are "impactable."

Oh, I started reviewing this thread just a bit ago and noticed the chatter regarding Shtterman on eBay. He is Bob Brooks out of Florida. He has advertised in earlier CL stunt magazines and uses the same phone number from "back in the day." He and I sent a few text messages, and he indicated he will sell privately without eBay.

Thanks in advance.

Offline Dan McEntee

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #78 on: January 01, 2022, 07:06:19 PM »
[quote author=Dan McEntee  These came from a aftermarket company called Motion -Pro and they had them in #1, #2 and #3 JIS configuration. They came two in a package and were just a few bucks a package. I use the #3 on some motorcycles but you would never use one that big on a model engine. The #1 and #2 are all you need.


Dan, my youngest son and I are getting ready to peel apart my Honda S-90. Have you used the tips in a hammer-driven impact wrench? Or are these marketed only for screwdriver application? Amazon doesn't indicate they are "impactable."

Oh, I started reviewing this thread just a bit ago and noticed the chatter regarding Shtterman on eBay. He is Bob Brooks out of Florida. He has advertised in earlier CL stunt magazines and uses the same phone number from "back in the day." He and I sent a few text messages, and he indicated he will sell privately without eBay.

Thanks in advance.

     Hi Jim;
    I have never had to use these with a hammer type impact tool on a motorcycle as yet. I actually try to avoid the hammer if at all possible on motorcycle stuff, they are just not that solid. I have used them with a socket in a ratchet wrench, and I have a T-handle type tool that takes interchangeable bits and as long as the bit fits properly, I have always been able to break things loose if its a Philips head. Japanese bikes tend to use Phillips type heads more. Most Euro bikes are socket head bolts, and some are just slotted with a wide truss head. Against a nice machines surface these lock down nice with a audible click so you don't need lock washers.
   I have dealt with Bob Brooks on the side of eBay also. He may know more about the Enya situation that has come up in another thread, also.
     HAPPY NEW YEAR!
    Dan McEntee
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Offline Dave Moritz

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #79 on: January 01, 2022, 08:12:15 PM »
Meister Divot:

Been there and done that with a pair of Enya 15 IIIs. Same experience as yours, so am regrettably done with those mills. I’ve a 15 IV that I hold out much more hope for in a future project.

Dave D Moe…
It’s a very strange world we live in, Master Jack.” (4 Jacks and a Jill)

Offline Mike Scholtes

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #80 on: January 01, 2022, 10:26:59 PM »
I have personally loosened and tightened phillips-head bolts on a Honda S90, and lots of other 1960s Honda motorcycles using a hammer-driven impact driver. Worked fine, in days before I had access to air tools. I still have that impact driver and used it only a few days ago. While the concern about using a hammer on an aluminum engine case and covers is valid, I never damaged one using this tool with the proper (note "proper") size bit. In fact nothing else would work. The isolastic shock aborber takes the hit, not the aluminum case or steel bolt.

Offline GallopingGhostler

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #81 on: January 01, 2022, 10:58:57 PM »
Back in 1983, I bought a hand impact wrench from J.C. Whitney. It was a simple tool that came with 2 Phillips style bits (I guess, J.I.S. because tool was made in Japan) and 2 flat bits. It came in a really nice case, think I only paid $12 for it at the time plus shipping.

One could change directions by rotating a collar. It had an impact grade collar that one could remove to drive a 3/8" socket. One held it like a fat chisel. A simple tap of a hammer on the end of it would allow the spring loaded mechanism to depress downward to like up to an inch, causing the bit to rotate about 1/8" a turn, which would crack loose the screw. It wasn't like you were hammering directly on a motorcycle case.

It cracked all the engine head and case screws loose without any problems on a 1970 Honda SL-125 engine (same as CB-125) I was going to overhaul, to replace the CB-100 engine (same form factor) that was totally worn out. Prior to using the impact tool, I chewed a few screw heads attempting to remove them.

But, of course those screws have a considerably larger head than model airplane engine screws.

Offline Mike Scholtes

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #82 on: January 01, 2022, 11:44:47 PM »
Like this? Circa 1965, so old it was actually made in the USA. A bit much for model engines. My Anderson Spitfire, maybe.

Offline Dave Hull

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #83 on: January 02, 2022, 02:38:50 AM »
Guys,

Seems like there is a variety of experience with the Enya .15-III as a smooth--or not--runner. The engine was pretty clean when I got it, but since the last attempt resulted in more shaky breaky, I took it off and cleaned it well for storage. As in, a day in the hot antifreeze. That might have removed any notional buildup of carbon on the underside of the piston, but the liner does not slide out, so a visual inspection and cleaning was not feasible since there is significant taper in the bore, such that the piston does not simply slide out the top. Much more taper than you'd see on most OS engines. Still, the cleaning might have made some difference and it is worth testing. The engine appears to be broken in and has an excellent piston fit.

It is not the prop. I could not agree more about the futility of APC bothering to drill holes in their otherwise very fine propellers. Either they have no tooling, worn out tooling, or put their least skilled people on the drilling operation. So I understand Dan's comment. (There is a thread somewhere here that discusses this issue in detail, and you can see the different opinions on the subject there. Unfortunately, I don't think it addresses the time span for rework that Dan suggests, such as when the cows come home. In my personal experience, that time period is not long enough to repair some APC props unless you align a cutter to the molded ID and bore it all the way thru and then make a close fit bushing that presses into the prop and just slides onto the engine crank.)  In the particular case at hand, I can tell you that this is a wooden prop reworked from a Zinger "kit" and balances and tracks perfectly. Of course, I am willing to check again to add emphasis to my earlier certainty....

I didn't think there was any difference between the OS .15FP and LA mounting dimensions. There isn't in any of the larger engines, but I don't have a .15FP to check in this size. And when I did check the .15 LA that I have, it is not like the Enya .15-III, so I don't understand how anyone successfully "bolted it in," unless the FP is like the Enya and unlike the LA???

So maybe the Enya .15-III likes a pretty stiff nose, else you get what Dave Moe and I have seen. It wasn't really on my list to do a nose job on this little guy, but the more it hung around the house, the better I liked the color scheme on the wing. Kind of attached to it now....  Just sick of doing nose jobs on Other Peoples Planes (OPPs).

Still, as an engine this one seems like it is more than decent, but maybe short of being a jewel. Hard to give up on that....

The Divot


Offline GallopingGhostler

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #84 on: January 02, 2022, 10:18:07 AM »
Dave, I don't have a good photo of the Rm.Jr. with OS .15FP-S up close, but of it with the Enya .15-III TV up close. Been a while, but I managed to get it mounted in the same holes without modifying. Originally, I had a Fuji .099S-II mounted from 1980's, but glued 1/8" hardwood dowel sections after redrilling holes to snug fit, to fill the original engine mount holes, sanded flat to the ply sidings. Then drilled new for the OS.

Regarding the stuck liner in the Enya .15-III crankcase, I have had very good luck at removing these when removed immediately after a hot bath in either boiling water or hot anti-freeze. The heat softens the congealed Castor oil. Trick is to remove it immediately while still hot. (I have over 70 engines, most bought used, most are cross scavenged, of which a number had stuck cylinders.)


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