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Author Topic: Why not to use Enya engines?  (Read 15026 times)

Offline Dennis Moritz

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #50 on: March 08, 2021, 08:03:29 AM »
I was using an 11x4, I believe. On the advice of someone with a rep. Perhaps it was not broken in. It ran smoothly. Didn't lock up. Didn't run hot when run in it's comfortable appearing rpm range. Just down on power. Could be it had a small venturi. FPs need low pitch props so rpms can run where they need to. Never a 6 pitch, don't think I own a 6 pitch or 5 pitch prop for that matter, except some Fox props. Yes. Bet it had a smaller venturi. Engine behaved like that. It's sitting on a shelf where I know it is. Easy enough to check venturi size and try again sometime.

Offline Skip Chernoff

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #51 on: March 08, 2021, 05:33:46 PM »
The Enya 40SS is a very powereful engine.In fact I use one in my back up R/C Club 40 racing plane. I do run it in the high 15K rev range and have broken 2 conrods over 4 racing seasons. The rod becomes a "maintenence" item. Unlike some of my other racing engines I have never worn out the piston or liner.Under "stunt" conditions it would last a very long time. I'd use a 10.5x 4.5 APC and let it run where it wants to. Control the lap time with line length.........Just my 2 cents.....PhillySkip

Offline Skip Chernoff

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #52 on: March 08, 2021, 05:36:30 PM »
Dennis I believe that your engine wasn't broken in. The Enya 40ss is waaaay more powerful than the engines you listed....not even close really.

Offline Dennis Moritz

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #53 on: March 08, 2021, 06:15:33 PM »
Well. We'll take it out and see. What size intake are you using? That could well be the issue. Is it an RC Carb? Yes. The magic prop was tried. More power than the flexing 11x4. But not enough.

Offline Chris Brainard

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #54 on: March 08, 2021, 07:13:49 PM »
I became a fan of Enya’s about five years ago when I bought an SS 45 off eBay on a whim. It was listed as having a broken carb with a buy it now price of $25.00. Concerned that the case might be damaged I contacted the seller who assured me the only damage was to the carb...so I bought it. When it was delivered, I was disappointed that it was pretty heavy. At this point, there wasn’t much else to do but try it. I made a Delrin venturi and mounted it to a T-Rex that weighed about 60 oz., replacing a Super Tiger 60. Prop was a APC 12 x 5. I really wasn’t expecting much, maybe some really big loops. The first flight surprised me with how easily it pulled the plane, although it quickly became apparent the APC was too much prop. On the next flight I switched to an APC 12 x 4 and it really came alive, flying the T-Rex effortlessly, in fact, it was the best engine I had flown on that model. I liked it enough that I bought 6 more of the SS.45’s and two each of the SS.50’s and SS.40’s. I have an SS.45 on both my Pathfinder and my Roadrunner as well as an SS.30 on my Ringmaster which has been competitive at both Brodak’s and VSC. My Pathfinder weighs 50 oz. and has been flown with the SS.40 also. Our home flying field is at 6000 ft above sea level so there is a definite loss of power and lift at our elevation. I’ve been very pleased with how well the Enyas run. My flying buddy likes his too. He’s also running the SS.45.

Another Enya I really like is the Enya .45 model 6001. If you like the 4-2 style run, this one’s a real sweetheart.

As far as power is concerned, from my experience, an LA.46 isn’t even in the same league as the Enya SS.45 (and I’ve got 7 or 8 of the LA’s).
Chris

Offline Martin Quartim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #55 on: March 09, 2021, 02:52:33 PM »
I became a fan of Enya’s about five years ago when I bought an SS 45 off eBay on a whim. It was listed as having a broken carb with a buy it now price of $25.00. Concerned that the case might be damaged I contacted the seller who assured me the only damage was to the carb...so I bought it. When it was delivered, I was disappointed that it was pretty heavy. At this point, there wasn’t much else to do but try it. I made a Delrin venturi and mounted it to a T-Rex that weighed about 60 oz., replacing a Super Tiger 60. Prop was a APC 12 x 5. I really wasn’t expecting much, maybe some really big loops. The first flight surprised me with how easily it pulled the plane, although it quickly became apparent the APC was too much prop. On the next flight I switched to an APC 12 x 4 and it really came alive, flying the T-Rex effortlessly, in fact, it was the best engine I had flown on that model. I liked it enough that I bought 6 more of the SS.45’s and two each of the SS.50’s and SS.40’s. I have an SS.45 on both my Pathfinder and my Roadrunner as well as an SS.30 on my Ringmaster which has been competitive at both Brodak’s and VSC. My Pathfinder weighs 50 oz. and has been flown with the SS.40 also. Our home flying field is at 6000 ft above sea level so there is a definite loss of power and lift at our elevation. I’ve been very pleased with how well the Enyas run. My flying buddy likes his too. He’s also running the SS.45.

Another Enya I really like is the Enya .45 model 6001. If you like the 4-2 style run, this one’s a real sweetheart.

As far as power is concerned, from my experience, an LA.46 isn’t even in the same league as the Enya SS.45 (and I’ve got 7 or 8 of the LA’s).
Chris

Hi Chris,

the Enya SS45 and SS50 with 2 BB are not heavy, quite the contrary, at at 9.1Oz they are the lightest in the category. I doubt there is any engine in this size, and power, with the same light weight.  The Muffler is a bit heavy and big, but you can get lighter ones.

There is also  an Enya SS45 Plain Bearing and it is the same weight or lighter than 46LA, except the stock muffler which is about 20g heavier.

Good to see other people enjoying the engines I like the most!


Martin
p.s. try to score an Enya 45X, 40CX or 45CX these are best ones! they are AAC
Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

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Offline Brian Hampton

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #56 on: March 09, 2021, 06:29:39 PM »
Another Enya I really like is the Enya .45 model 6001.
Have to agree there. Back in the late 60's I stepped up from my Merco 35 to a 6001. This of course was the first version with twin rings but Enya switched to a single ring in about '71 in line with their newly released 60-IIIB. Back in the day one of our top fliers asked me how I got it to run like his ST 46 so I told him all I did was fill the tank, flip once and fly. IOW it was totally bog standard. When the 6002 was released I bought one but it was nowhere near as good for stunt (heavier and different timings) so put the 6001 back in again. Next upgrade wasn't until the late 90's to a G51.

Offline Chris Brainard

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #57 on: March 09, 2021, 09:06:52 PM »
Hi Martin,
Once I realized what kind of performance the SS .45 had, I realized that it was actually a very light engine in comparison to other engines with similar performance. Initially, when I bought my first one, my expectation was that it might be similar in performance to an LA.46, hence my first reaction of being disappointed by the weight. After flying it, I realized what I had. Obviously, I got over my disappointment pretty fast since I bought a whole bunch more! Truth be known, it was one of your write ups singing praises of the engine that convinced me to buy my first one. The information you gave regarding props was spot on. I have bought several of the CX engines (.40, .45, .50, and .61) but not flown them yet. They are heavier than the SS versions.

So far, I’ve been very pleased with the Enyas, especially the SS.45.
Chris

Offline Martin Quartim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #58 on: March 10, 2021, 07:53:51 PM »
Hi Martin,
Once I realized what kind of performance the SS .45 had, I realized that it was actually a very light engine in comparison to other engines with similar performance. Initially, when I bought my first one, my expectation was that it might be similar in performance to an LA.46, hence my first reaction of being disappointed by the weight. After flying it, I realized what I had. Obviously, I got over my disappointment pretty fast since I bought a whole bunch more! Truth be known, it was one of your write ups singing praises of the engine that convinced me to buy my first one. The information you gave regarding props was spot on. I have bought several of the CX engines (.40, .45, .50, and .61) but not flown them yet. They are heavier than the SS versions.

So far, I’ve been very pleased with the Enyas, especially the SS.45.
Chris

I am glad to hear about your experience!


Martin
Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

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Offline Martin Quartim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #59 on: March 10, 2021, 08:12:57 PM »

Not many people know that Enya pioneered AAC Engines.


Old Enya's never die, they just run stronger!

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Offline Brian Hampton

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #60 on: March 11, 2021, 07:51:07 PM »
Not many people know that Enya pioneered AAC Engines.
Their first one was the 60X. There were a couple of earlier engines (I think YS was one) but they were also ringed whereas the 60X was a true AAC.

Online Brent Williams

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #61 on: March 11, 2021, 09:35:25 PM »
That's kinda funny they went to all that trouble to make it AAC and made no attempt to lighten the muffler or carb.


Motorman 8)

If that muffler is anything like the mufflers on the Enya SS25/30, then they are probably incredibly light.
Laser-cut, "Ted Fancher Precision-Pro" Hard Point Handle Kits are available again.  PM for info.
https://stunthanger.com/smf/brent-williams'-fancher-handles-and-cl-parts/ted-fancher's-precision-pro-handle-kit-by-brent-williams-information/

Offline Martin Quartim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #62 on: March 12, 2021, 03:09:52 PM »
If that muffler is anything like the mufflers on the Enya SS25/30, then they are probably incredibly light.


The muffler weight is 2.7oz

Martin
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Offline Joe Ed Pederson

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #64 on: May 04, 2021, 12:19:54 PM »
Spot on, Sir Divot!

What a strange critter the 15-III has been to get started. It took a long while to figure out the formula, but I can do it in one or two flips now. Lots of break-in still needed though.

Dave Moe...

Please share the formula.  I'm breaking in a 15-III and I can get it started within 60 seconds, but I'm never sure when it's going to start.  It might be easier to start in an upright position, but I'm using a Sig Akromaster and a stooge as the run-in stand.  I never get a "bump," sometimes hear the glow plug (Enya #3) "sizzling," and the prop frequently stops in midstroke when I flip it (chicken stick).

I'm using Martin's break-in program and am at the last two three minute runs.  Prop is an APC 9x4 and the fuel is 10% nitro and 20% straight castor.

If it were an old OS Max iron engine I would think the motor broken in.  It feels as free as a broken in engine when you rock the prop back and forth.

I have another new 15-III that was given to me in the case with both venturis and all the paperwork.  It is very tight and has a "catch" when the piston comes from bottom dead center and the top of the piston gets about an eight of an inch above the top of the exhaust port.  Once past the point where the piston "sticks/catches" the piston feels free for the rest of the stroke.     Is this what people mean when they say that new Enyas are tight or is this a real problem?  I haven't run this engine yet.

Thanks,
Joe Ed Pederson
Cuba, MO

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #65 on: May 04, 2021, 03:32:37 PM »
If it is tight at the top that is good.  Just don't flip it dry.  When running for break in use a tach and if it starts to sag richen it.  I don't know what the reccommended prop and RPM the instructions call for but if it will hold a setting put it in the air with a slightly rich setting and see how it runs out the tank.  If it does sound a little tight fly it as close to the ground as you can.   This is when flying over grass helps as I have had to set it down into the grass to stop the engine.  Don't try it with wood props though. D>K
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Offline BOB ALLAN

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« Last Edit: May 07, 2021, 06:52:57 PM by BOB ALLAN »

Offline Chris Wilson

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #67 on: May 04, 2021, 07:37:13 PM »
Martin, quick question.
Do the ringed Enyas have cylinder taper?
If not, and I have read about reworked ones that aim for parallel bores, then this maybe one reason 'not' to choose  one.
Chris.
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Offline Brian Hampton

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #68 on: May 05, 2021, 05:44:02 PM »
I have another new 15-III.........  It is very tight and has a "catch" when the piston comes from bottom dead center and the top of the piston gets about an eight of an inch above the top of the exhaust port.  Once past the point where the piston "sticks/catches" the piston feels free for the rest of the stroke.
Open up the compendium from Bob's link above and scroll down to the bottom of page 62. This may be the cause of the binding. Be aware the screws are JIS, not Phillips.

Offline Joe Ed Pederson

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #69 on: May 05, 2021, 07:33:16 PM »
Open up the compendium from Bob's link above and scroll down to the bottom of page 62. This may be the cause of the binding. Be aware the screws are JIS, not Phillips.

Brian,

Wow!   I would never have guessed that that was the problem.   I had downloaded and saved Bob's Compendium, but I hadn't read anything but the pages on the description of the 15-III.  In the description of the cause of the problem, it said a quick email to Enya would get you a new crankcase, but I went to the Enya website and it didn't appear that the carry the parts for an engine that old.

The engine was free so, it isn't a great loss.

I recently became aware that the reason it is so difficult to work with the screws on OS and Enya engines was the screws were designed to Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS).  One of these days I'm going to order a set of JIS Screwdrivers.

Thanks for the intel.

Joe Ed Pederson

Online Dan McEntee

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #70 on: May 05, 2021, 07:41:50 PM »
Brian,

Wow!   I would never have guessed that that was the problem.   I had downloaded and saved Bob's Compendium, but I hadn't read anything but the pages on the description of the 15-III.  In the description of the cause of the problem, it said a quick email to Enya would get you a new crankcase, but I went to the Enya website and it didn't appear that the carry the parts for an engine that old.

The engine was free so, it isn't a great loss.

I recently became aware that the reason it is so difficult to work with the screws on OS and Enya engines was the screws were designed to Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS).  One of these days I'm going to order a set of JIS Screwdrivers.

Thanks for the intel.

Joe Ed Pederson

    Ed, don't put off that purchase too long for the JIS screw drivers. They do make one heck of a difference. I learned that back in my old motorcycle days working on Japanese bikes, and in recent history picked up a set of the brand that Brett Buck was recommending. I also investigated and found some replacement bits for one of my multi bit screw drivers. These came from a aftermarket company called Motion -Pro and they had them in #1, #2 and #3 JIS configuration. They came two in a package and were just a few bucks a package. I use the #3 on some motorcycles but you would never use one that big on a model engine. The #1 and #2 are all you need.
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Offline Joe Ed Pederson

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #71 on: May 06, 2021, 10:12:40 AM »
    Ed, don't put off that purchase too long for the JIS screw drivers. They do make one heck of a difference. I learned that back in my old motorcycle days working on Japanese bikes, and in recent history picked up a set of the brand that Brett Buck was recommending. I also investigated and found some replacement bits for one of my multi bit screw drivers. These came from a aftermarket company called Motion -Pro and they had them in #1, #2 and #3 JIS configuration. They came two in a package and were just a few bucks a package. I use the #3 on some motorcycles but you would never use one that big on a model engine. The #1 and #2 are all you need.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

Thanks, Dan.   It is good to know I only need the #1 and #2.   I'll order them today.  [Edit]: I ordered two sets of two #1  and two sets of two #2 from Pro-Motion.   They were $3.99 for each set of two.

Joe Ed
« Last Edit: May 06, 2021, 04:02:13 PM by Joe Ed Pederson »

Offline Gary Dowler

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #72 on: May 06, 2021, 01:48:29 PM »
Not a big fan of clamps.  Prefer screws, nails.

Not me:



Oh my!!  Bet that got his attention!  My local hobby shop told me of a guy who would start engines, up to 60’s, by simply holding on to the motor by hand.  Not this guy!!!!

Gary
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Online Dave Hull

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #73 on: December 31, 2021, 11:48:21 PM »
Ok, I'll try some follow-up here regarding the Enya .15-III since a good amount of discussion above is relevant. I'm having no luck with the Enya .15-III on a Magician 15. A picture of the plane was shown in the thread above. Unfortunately, the engine is either a shaker, or the nose of the plane is soft.  (Or the frequency of the shaking force is sitting right on top of the first bending mode....)

Is the Enya .15-III known to be a shaker? I see the full disk crank is cut pretty well for counterbalancing. I didn't want to pull the drive hub off to check the static balance (crank plus 50% rod approximation) before I think about it some more.

The problem is not real amenable to "swap and see" testing. No other engines I know of (except the old Supertigres?) have the same bolt pattern. Would have liked to try the OS .15LA, which is pretty civilized, and I have it on hand. I don't have a Brodak, so not sure of the bolt pattern and bearer spacing....

Before we all go down the rabbit hole, yes, the prop balance was carefully checked; the hole was a close fit; and, no spinner was used; real mounting bolts were used and tightened, etc.

It's a nice little plane, but not worth it to me to chop the nose off to rebuild it. Done too many nosejobs on OPPs (Other People's Planes) the last few years to volunteer to go there....

Dave

Offline GERALD WIMMER

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #74 on: January 01, 2022, 04:20:15 AM »
Hello Dave I have used the Enya MkIV's on a Goodyear racer and combat wing and both are smooth performers . I think you will find the Enya Mk II, III and IV have the same bolt pattern which they happen to share with Rossi and Nelson 15's.

Regards Gerald

Online Dan McEntee

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #75 on: January 01, 2022, 09:19:08 AM »

Before we all go down the rabbit hole, yes, the prop balance was carefully checked; the hole was a close fit; and, no spinner was used; real mounting bolts were used and tightened, etc.

It's a nice little plane, but not worth it to me to chop the nose off to rebuild it. Done too many nosejobs on OPPs (Other People's Planes) the last few years to volunteer to go there....

Dave

    What prop are you using? If APC make sure the hole is centered. I have seen props come from them with the holes molded off center. You can sand the blades until the cows come home but that won't help with an off center hole.
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Offline GallopingGhostler

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #76 on: January 01, 2022, 04:49:42 PM »
Ok, I'll try some follow-up here regarding the Enya .15-III since a good amount of discussion above is relevant. I'm having no luck with the Enya .15-III on a Magician 15. A picture of the plane was shown in the thread above. Unfortunately, the engine is either a shaker, or the nose of the plane is soft.  (Or the frequency of the shaking force is sitting right on top of the first bending mode....)

Is the Enya .15-III known to be a shaker? I see the full disk crank is cut pretty well for counterbalancing. I didn't want to pull the drive hub off to check the static balance (crank plus 50% rod approximation) before I think about it some more.

Dave, I can only speak of my limited experiences of testing the Enya .15-III TV with throttle wired wide open on a Junior Ringmaster. I swapped out the OS Max .15-FP (with OEM venturi / NVA) and the Enya. Did not require re-drilling engine mount holes. I didn't notice any unusual shake, seems to be well balanced. With a 8x6 Masters prop, was attaining the same lap speeds as with the OS and 8x4 Masters prop. Plus, it was capable of wet-2, lean-2 cycling in and out of stunts on 60' lines.

Similar to the OS without muffler, it made the Rm.Jr. nose heavy, an engine of an ounce less would have been better. Since the Magician 15 has more wing area, probably a better match for its airframe.

If you have exceptional shake, it is probably something else going on with the engine.

The problem is not real amenable to "swap and see" testing. No other engines I know of (except the old Supertigres?) have the same bolt pattern. Would have liked to try the OS .15LA, which is pretty civilized, and I have it on hand. I don't have a Brodak, so not sure of the bolt pattern and bearer spacing.... Before we all go down the rabbit hole, yes, the prop balance was carefully checked; the hole was a close fit; and, no spinner was used; real mounting bolts were used and tightened, etc.

I don't think there is too much difference between the OS .15 FP and LA. Might be worth a try, seems a simple trial fix and a way to get some hours on the Magician airframe until you can sort out the Enya problems.

Online 944_Jim

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #77 on: January 01, 2022, 05:43:02 PM »
[quote author=Dan McEntee  These came from a aftermarket company called Motion -Pro and they had them in #1, #2 and #3 JIS configuration. They came two in a package and were just a few bucks a package. I use the #3 on some motorcycles but you would never use one that big on a model engine. The #1 and #2 are all you need.
[/quote]

Dan, my youngest son and I are getting ready to peel apart my Honda S-90. Have you used the tips in a hammer-driven impact wrench? Or are these marketed only for screwdriver application? Amazon doesn't indicate they are "impactable."

Oh, I started reviewing this thread just a bit ago and noticed the chatter regarding Shtterman on eBay. He is Bob Brooks out of Florida. He has advertised in earlier CL stunt magazines and uses the same phone number from "back in the day." He and I sent a few text messages, and he indicated he will sell privately without eBay.

Thanks in advance.

Online Dan McEntee

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #78 on: January 01, 2022, 07:06:19 PM »
[quote author=Dan McEntee  These came from a aftermarket company called Motion -Pro and they had them in #1, #2 and #3 JIS configuration. They came two in a package and were just a few bucks a package. I use the #3 on some motorcycles but you would never use one that big on a model engine. The #1 and #2 are all you need.


Dan, my youngest son and I are getting ready to peel apart my Honda S-90. Have you used the tips in a hammer-driven impact wrench? Or are these marketed only for screwdriver application? Amazon doesn't indicate they are "impactable."

Oh, I started reviewing this thread just a bit ago and noticed the chatter regarding Shtterman on eBay. He is Bob Brooks out of Florida. He has advertised in earlier CL stunt magazines and uses the same phone number from "back in the day." He and I sent a few text messages, and he indicated he will sell privately without eBay.

Thanks in advance.

     Hi Jim;
    I have never had to use these with a hammer type impact tool on a motorcycle as yet. I actually try to avoid the hammer if at all possible on motorcycle stuff, they are just not that solid. I have used them with a socket in a ratchet wrench, and I have a T-handle type tool that takes interchangeable bits and as long as the bit fits properly, I have always been able to break things loose if its a Philips head. Japanese bikes tend to use Phillips type heads more. Most Euro bikes are socket head bolts, and some are just slotted with a wide truss head. Against a nice machines surface these lock down nice with a audible click so you don't need lock washers.
   I have dealt with Bob Brooks on the side of eBay also. He may know more about the Enya situation that has come up in another thread, also.
     HAPPY NEW YEAR!
    Dan McEntee
AMA 28784
EAA  1038824
AMA 480405 (American Motorcyclist Association)

Online Dave Moritz

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #79 on: January 01, 2022, 08:12:15 PM »
Meister Divot:

Been there and done that with a pair of Enya 15 IIIs. Same experience as yours, so am regrettably done with those mills. I’ve a 15 IV that I hold out much more hope for in a future project.

Dave D Moe…
It’s a very strange world we live in, Master Jack.” (4 Jacks and a Jill)

Offline Mike Scholtes

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #80 on: January 01, 2022, 10:26:59 PM »
I have personally loosened and tightened phillips-head bolts on a Honda S90, and lots of other 1960s Honda motorcycles using a hammer-driven impact driver. Worked fine, in days before I had access to air tools. I still have that impact driver and used it only a few days ago. While the concern about using a hammer on an aluminum engine case and covers is valid, I never damaged one using this tool with the proper (note "proper") size bit. In fact nothing else would work. The isolastic shock aborber takes the hit, not the aluminum case or steel bolt.

Offline GallopingGhostler

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #81 on: January 01, 2022, 10:58:57 PM »
Back in 1983, I bought a hand impact wrench from J.C. Whitney. It was a simple tool that came with 2 Phillips style bits (I guess, J.I.S. because tool was made in Japan) and 2 flat bits. It came in a really nice case, think I only paid $12 for it at the time plus shipping.

One could change directions by rotating a collar. It had an impact grade collar that one could remove to drive a 3/8" socket. One held it like a fat chisel. A simple tap of a hammer on the end of it would allow the spring loaded mechanism to depress downward to like up to an inch, causing the bit to rotate about 1/8" a turn, which would crack loose the screw. It wasn't like you were hammering directly on a motorcycle case.

It cracked all the engine head and case screws loose without any problems on a 1970 Honda SL-125 engine (same as CB-125) I was going to overhaul, to replace the CB-100 engine (same form factor) that was totally worn out. Prior to using the impact tool, I chewed a few screw heads attempting to remove them.

But, of course those screws have a considerably larger head than model airplane engine screws.

Offline Mike Scholtes

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #82 on: January 01, 2022, 11:44:47 PM »
Like this? Circa 1965, so old it was actually made in the USA. A bit much for model engines. My Anderson Spitfire, maybe.

Online Dave Hull

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #83 on: January 02, 2022, 02:38:50 AM »
Guys,

Seems like there is a variety of experience with the Enya .15-III as a smooth--or not--runner. The engine was pretty clean when I got it, but since the last attempt resulted in more shaky breaky, I took it off and cleaned it well for storage. As in, a day in the hot antifreeze. That might have removed any notional buildup of carbon on the underside of the piston, but the liner does not slide out, so a visual inspection and cleaning was not feasible since there is significant taper in the bore, such that the piston does not simply slide out the top. Much more taper than you'd see on most OS engines. Still, the cleaning might have made some difference and it is worth testing. The engine appears to be broken in and has an excellent piston fit.

It is not the prop. I could not agree more about the futility of APC bothering to drill holes in their otherwise very fine propellers. Either they have no tooling, worn out tooling, or put their least skilled people on the drilling operation. So I understand Dan's comment. (There is a thread somewhere here that discusses this issue in detail, and you can see the different opinions on the subject there. Unfortunately, I don't think it addresses the time span for rework that Dan suggests, such as when the cows come home. In my personal experience, that time period is not long enough to repair some APC props unless you align a cutter to the molded ID and bore it all the way thru and then make a close fit bushing that presses into the prop and just slides onto the engine crank.)  In the particular case at hand, I can tell you that this is a wooden prop reworked from a Zinger "kit" and balances and tracks perfectly. Of course, I am willing to check again to add emphasis to my earlier certainty....

I didn't think there was any difference between the OS .15FP and LA mounting dimensions. There isn't in any of the larger engines, but I don't have a .15FP to check in this size. And when I did check the .15 LA that I have, it is not like the Enya .15-III, so I don't understand how anyone successfully "bolted it in," unless the FP is like the Enya and unlike the LA???

So maybe the Enya .15-III likes a pretty stiff nose, else you get what Dave Moe and I have seen. It wasn't really on my list to do a nose job on this little guy, but the more it hung around the house, the better I liked the color scheme on the wing. Kind of attached to it now....  Just sick of doing nose jobs on Other Peoples Planes (OPPs).

Still, as an engine this one seems like it is more than decent, but maybe short of being a jewel. Hard to give up on that....

The Divot


Offline GallopingGhostler

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Re: Why not to use Enya engines?
« Reply #84 on: January 02, 2022, 10:18:07 AM »
Dave, I don't have a good photo of the Rm.Jr. with OS .15FP-S up close, but of it with the Enya .15-III TV up close. Been a while, but I managed to get it mounted in the same holes without modifying. Originally, I had a Fuji .099S-II mounted from 1980's, but glued 1/8" hardwood dowel sections after redrilling holes to snug fit, to fill the original engine mount holes, sanded flat to the ply sidings. Then drilled new for the OS.

Regarding the stuck liner in the Enya .15-III crankcase, I have had very good luck at removing these when removed immediately after a hot bath in either boiling water or hot anti-freeze. The heat softens the congealed Castor oil. Trick is to remove it immediately while still hot. (I have over 70 engines, most bought used, most are cross scavenged, of which a number had stuck cylinders.)


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