stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Phil Hawkins on January 16, 2015, 08:38:30 PM
-
Title says it all. I will need about 6 or so... maybe even a dozen just to have a few spares. I am also looking for a McCoy .40 redhead head. I just need the head to complete a near new .40, and one prop drive. Thanks! I may be looking for your junk pile McCoy 40's including a Testors version, whatcha got?
-
There is a vendor on ebay that have gasket sets including the crank pin.
-
Here's a link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/McCOY-35-RH-BH-OverHaul-Kit-and-Rebuilding-Information-/141544074163?ssPageName=ADME:SS:SS:US:3160
-
Scott Riese was able to supply nylon buttons, not sure about gaskets,havnt seen his name on the forums lately tho
-
I am not recommending this, and over time will see how it pans out. I found that an unused 1/8" dia. aluminum pop rivet with shank removed fits perfectly with flared side filed a little and polished. Some have told me that the aluminum in the pop rivet is harder than the case back, which might provide problems. I dunno, it has no pressure against it when running due to the pull of the prop which keeps it from being pressed against the back.
TIme will tell.
-
I am not recommending this, and over time will see how it pans out. I found that an unused 1/8" dia. aluminum pop rivet with shank removed fits perfectly with flared side filed a little and polished. Some have told me that the aluminum in the pop rivet is harder than the case back, which might provide problems. I dunno, it has no pressure against it when running due to the pull of the prop which keeps it from being pressed against the back.
TIme will tell.
Hi George,
I wonder how the back plate is affected by the excess front/rear play the Red Heads seem to have in the crank? It makes me wonder how the crank acts when running in a 4-2 break if the crank unloads (goes back to a "4") on down legs of maneuvers for a split second causing a rub?
I have the nylon buttons in all my Red Heads and find swirl wear marks on the back plate. (??)
Thanks!
BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
-
Hi George, I wonder how the back plate is affected by the excess front/rear play the Red Heads seem to have in the crank? It makes me wonder how the crank acts when running in a 4-2 break if the crank unloads (goes back to a "4") on down legs of maneuvers for a split second causing a rub? I have the nylon buttons in all my Red Heads and find swirl wear marks on the back plate. (??) Thanks! BIG Bear RNMM/AMM
Bill, one of the Testors McCoy .35 Red Heads I have is built from parts engines, and it has considerable swirling and scoring on the back plate. When I got it, the button had been worn off with only the stem left. Scoring appears to be from the crank journal pin scraping the back. I gathered it must have been electric started, which is not good for these engines since pressing the starter will force the button against the back.
So, I'm not really worried about consequences of the pop rivet crank throw spacer. I can't say if the 4-2 break would cause the prop to travel back forcing the crank throw spacer against the back plate. As I said, time will tell.
-
Why don't you guys put a stainless steel shim between the case and thrust washer like a OS FP has to keep the crank from hitting the back plate?
Better yet, torque the prop nut and measure the gap between the prop driver and the main bearing and make a shim giving .008-.010 clearance, you won't need the plastic plug and the crank pin won't be able to touch the backplate at all.