stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: frank mccune on May 03, 2021, 04:38:58 PM
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Hello All:
My friend has one of these items that just went dead. Is there anybody who can help him get it working again?
Tia,
Frank
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Post a picture of it.
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I can't speak of the unit you have.
It has been my experience that the life span of a glow driver is between thirty years and two days. Quality control has become the customer's job.
When they don't warrenty I send them back to the dealer.
I have never been able to repair a failed glow driver other than swapping it out for a new one.
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Frank,
Not seeing a picture makes it difficult to discuss a solution. Is it an on-the-plug driver/batter or a power panel? I tried Googling it but couldn't find anything except a power panel.
If on-the-plug and you need to replace the battery he would need to heat the housing, then holding the battery in a soft rubber jaw vise, use a large screw driver positioned on the edge of the housing knock it off (work two sides). There are YouTube videos that show this. I replace one battery on a friends glow driver and it was pretty easy. Once you get the new battery you heat the housing and drive it over the positive end.
Best, DennisT
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The only Northeast Engineering “glow driver” I’m aware of is simply an inline regulator. It attaches to a battery of up to 12 volts (or maybe exactly 12 volts) and has a potentiometer labeled <TEMP>. I don’t know if temp is volts or amps. I saw a used one at a swap meet years ago but the unit did not seem to function when the seller tried to demonstrate it and so I passed on buying it. Apparently it is patented. After reading the abstract I want one too.
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Patent Abstract:
An apparatus for regulating the temperature of a model engine glow plug filament. Between pulses from a power circuit, an amplifier applies its output voltage to a filament current path comprising the filament and a resistive circuit. By means of feedback to the amplifier, the filament voltage is kept at a predetermined reference, and the output voltage is thereby an indication of the filament resistance, which is related to its temperature. The output voltage charges a capacitor whose discharge time determines the "on" time of the power pulses. By this method, temperature is regulated, and power is totally cut off when the filament temperature gets sufficiently high.
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I hope someone here can help Tom’s friend repair his, or knows who the remaining shops are that work on model airplane electronics.
Here are some pics I located via Google:
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Yes Mr. Prescott that indeed is the glow driver in question.
Thanks
Frank
Ps I got curious and wanted to see just how well this device would work on an engine that was severely flooded. I hooked up a glow plug, adjusted it for the correct glow and plunged it into a lass of water. The plug continued to glow at the optimum amount while submerged. Never feared flooded engines again! Lol
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Hello All:
My friend has one of these items that just went dead. Is there anybody who can help him get it working again?
I have repaired a few of them, including one just like that. But, I wouldn't recommend fixing it, it is ancient, and you can get a new one for $15-20, I think.
Brett
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Yes Mr. Prescott that indeed is the glow driver in question.
Thanks
Frank
Ps I got curious and wanted to see just how well this device would work on an engine that was severely flooded. I hooked up a glow plug, adjusted it for the correct glow and plunged it into a lass of water. The plug continued to glow at the optimum amount while submerged. Never feared flooded engines again! Lol
OK, I'm confused. Your original post said that your friend has one that went dead and were looking to get it fixed ! Is this why it went dead? A plain jane power panel you can find at swap meets and such for 5 or 10 bucks can do the same thing, but I never felt the need to try drowning one in water! They work just fine on my toy airplanes.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Thanks for all of the replies.
My is not interested in purchasing another glow driver due the high cost, $90.00.
He has deceived to continue to use his power panel.
I have one but have taken the KISS route and only take my 1.3v igniter to the flying circle. If I use only “modern” engines, starting is very easy.
Stay well,
Frank
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Thanks for all of the replies.
My is not interested in purchasing another glow driver due the high cost, $90.00.
$28:
https://www.amazon.com/Hangar-9-HAN106-MOSFET-Power/dp/B0006N6UEG
If he just wants to take a stab in the dark, spray contact cleaner in all the switches, check the fuse, and replace any electrolytic capacitors (at least C6 - 100 mfd/25 volts - and C7 - 10 mfd/25V - but maybe some others), and maybe it will work.
Brett