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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: RknRusty on August 09, 2014, 03:35:56 PM
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I need to lay on some tissue and paint a rudder. Is there any significant weight difference between Minwax Polycrilic and polyurethane? Thanks.
Rusty
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I most especially wouldn't use polyURETHANE...I suspect it would harden slowly when applying tissue with it...like weeks. The Godzilla wrote an arrrrticle (is this "talk like a pirate day"?) about using polyCRYLIC with silkspan, so that seems to work fine. But then it's not fuel proof in the slightest, so you need to put something over it.
If you can deal with the smell, butyrate dope is pretty good all-around stuff. Most everybody around here that 'sperimented with car paint has gone back to dope (usually with pigments from the auto paint store, or Duplicolor lacquer spray cans) and often with a clear coat of some sort, such as "KBS Diamond Clearcoat" or 2-part clear Death Paint. The Krylon and Rustoleum works until you need to do a repair and you find a problem with the clear dope attacking it (either) where you're repairing holes in the covering material. #^ Steve
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Thanks for the tip Steve. I have some 'cryllic, I'll use that. This is for my new Skyray, just a utility plane, the rattlecan paint will protect it.
Rusty
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I would recommend thinning the polycrllic with a bit of water. I use it as a sealer under primer & rusteolum. I have no complaints; mine are just sport/learning planes.
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Polycrylic works great for silk span and light fiberglass applications. Just treat it like any other undercoat. I spray Dupli-Color primer over it a day later and then Dupli-Color acrylic enamel for the color coats with Dupli-Color acrylic enamel clear as a top coat. As for thinning use 50/50 alcohol and water it mixes in faster. Good stuff if you work in the basement and the family is home.
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I need to lay on some tissue and paint a rudder. Is there any significant weight difference between Minwax Polycrilic and polyurethane? Thanks.
Rusty
I don't think any good Oak or Rock Maple floor would notice a weight difference. Dope is still the chemical of choice for model airplanes that need to fly well.
Kim n1
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I don't think any good Oak or Rock Maple floor would notice a weight difference. Dope is still the chemical of choice for model airplanes that need to fly well.
Kim n1
So is what I can afford to keep on the shelf. I expect it will fly well anyway.
It's done. Thanks all.
Rusty
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Polycrylic works great for silk span and light fiberglass applications. Just treat it like any other undercoat. I spray Dupli-Color primer over it a day later and then Dupli-Color acrylic enamel for the color coats with Dupli-Color acrylic enamel clear as a top coat. As for thinning use 50/50 alcohol and water it mixes in faster. Good stuff if you work in the basement and the family is home.
Perry,
Is Dupli-color acrylic clear fuel proof?
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I have used Ace brand Poly and it seems to work just fine with Polyspan covering. Attached is a pic of my Ringmaster I did for last years Ringmaster Fly-a-thon. I used Poly to adhere the polyspan, then I used rattle can white primer, then Createx Auto-Air water based automotive paint and finally a 2 part urethane clearcoat. The model seems to fly just fine and looks great.
I personally am very comfortable using the polycrylic adhesive method for polyspan but I"m learning to love the smell of dope.... n~ with Klass Kote epoxy paints for my next build.
-Scott
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As for thinning use 50/50 alcohol and water it mixes in faster.
What kind of alcohol?
Thanks,
MM
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Does Polycrillic work for attaching Tom Morris cloth hinges? Do you need polycrilic under coats before applying the silkspan? The hinges work fine with clear dope, but I'm thinking of following the Polycrillic, Duplicolor, Duplicolor, Duplicolor routine described here for my next profile finish. Black ultracote wings, DC primer and black and clear for Fuselage & flaps. (Sounds too simple!)
What say you?
Ward-O
OK. Help! Went looking for DC products. Must be a gazillion spray paints! The DC-540 Primer Sparky was pushing no longer seems to exist. All kinds of different clears... Enamels, Lacquers and who knows what? Is there any particular series of part numbers I should be looking for? OR.............
W.
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Ward-O;
The DC-540 primer I believe is actually a NAPA-labeled product. I purchased it at a NAPA store from the guys at the counter (they had to go into the back to source it), it was not co-located with the various other Dupli-color products...
r/
Dave
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David is correct. DC 540 is a NAPA Colorline sandable primer product. But still the question, are we using Dupli-Color ENAMEL or LACQUER? Someone here mentioned ENAMEL, but LACQUER would seem to be the way to go if youre going to clear coat with dope or Dupli-Color clear.
Who has the facts? I'm trying to write up a simple step-by-step process that works.
Thanks
W.
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David is correct. DC 540 is a NAPA Colorline sandable primer product. But still the question, are we using Dupli-Color ENAMEL or LACQUER? Someone here mentioned ENAMEL, but LACQUER would seem to be the way to go if youre going to clear coat with dope or Dupli-Color clear.
Who has the facts? I'm trying to write up a simple step-by-step process that works.
Thanks
W.
Ward,
I believe replies and suggestions will be all over the place. That is, many modelers have different systems and methods and swear by them. Literally!
I can and will tell you this, for years, and I mean years, I used all automotive paint products on my R/C, pattern ships, and on many customer's pattern ships also. Sprayed using professional spray guns and airbrushes.
Never did I ever have any issues. With anything! I could remove masks and tape with confidence and layer colors easily. Great clean edges!
My next model deserves better than RRC, sorry Rusty but it's true. LL~
Aerosol cans have limitations, but it has been fun using them. n~
Dope? Guys get great results with it, so, knock yourself out.
However, my next model I'll go back to my winning game. Quality two stage auto paint and quality auto two stage top coat clear.
Probably Spies Hecker brand.
Bottom line, depends on the model and your feelings about it. Last two models I painted, IMHO, didn't warrant the effort or cost using high end products. Took a different route. Route 66, with RRC's!
Results? Exceptable, not a show stopper, only exceptable.
Nothing wrong with that.
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RRC? Rattle, Rattle Cans?
And I thought this was a simple question seeking a simple answer!
W.
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Polycrylic is water based and can warp your piece so be careful where you apply it.
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David is correct. DC 540 is a NAPA Colorline sandable primer product. But still the question, are we using Dupli-Color ENAMEL or LACQUER? Someone here mentioned ENAMEL, but LACQUER would seem to be the way to go if youre going to clear coat with dope or Dupli-Color clear.
Who has the facts? I'm trying to write up a simple step-by-step process that works.
Thanks
W.
I have used both Rustoleum and Duplicolor Enamel and they work OK but I much prefer the Duplicolor lacquer products. I have also used both Polyurethane and Polycrilic. I much prefer the Polycrylic as it is lighter and fills better in my opinion.
Bill
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SWAG: RRCs = Rustoleum Rattle Cans ? ???
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SWAG: RRCs = Rustoleum Rattle Cans ? ???
"What's my line."
Will the real RRC please stand up.
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RRC? Rattle, Rattle Cans?
And I thought this was a simple question seeking a simple answer!
It was! I asked in post #1 and got my answer from Steve Helmick in post #2.
I most especially wouldn't use polyURETHANE...I suspect it would harden slowly when applying tissue with it...like weeks. The Godzilla wrote an arrrrticle (is this "talk like a pirate day"?) about using polyCRYLIC with silkspan, so that seems to work fine. But then it's not fuel proof in the slightest, so you need to put something over it.
"What's my line."
Will the real RRC please stand up.
That would be me, RknRusty if I'm not mistken. RRC AKA Rattlecan Rusty, so named by Charles for my Rustoleum successes on puky profiles.
BTW, that plane was finished and maidened at the Triple Tree Aerodrome this past Saturday. It's now a key member of my stunt fleet, hopefully to bring home another win or two.
RRC Rusty
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Does Polycrillic work for attaching Tom Morris cloth hinges? Do you need polycrilic under coats before applying the silkspan? The hinges work fine with clear dope, but I'm thinking of following the Polycrillic, Duplicolor, Duplicolor, Duplicolor routine described here for my next profile finish. Black ultracote wings, DC primer and black and clear for Fuselage & flaps. (Sounds too simple!)
What say you?
Ward-O
i didn't see an answer for the question of the hinges. in my experience, no. its not strong enough of a bond to support hinges.
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Dane, I thought he was referring to the "Which is lighter, Minwax Polycrilic or Polyurethane". That one got answered.
Rusty
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Dane,
Regarding your reply to my "hinges" question I think you might have been thinking of pinned plastic hinges. What I was referring to (not very clearly) was cloth hinges from Tom Morris. I've used these successfully with dope to hold them down, but wouldn't be sure about the Poly...I will make a test sample and see for myself! But don't wait, I'm a sloooow builder.
W.
Rusty, you were right about your initial question, but as usual these things often take left turns!
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Rusty, you were right about your initial question, but as usual these things often take left turns!
Not a problem, Ward. Carry on.
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Dane,
Regarding your reply to my "hinges" question I think you might have been thinking of pinned plastic hinges. What I was referring to (not very clearly) was cloth hinges from Tom Morris. I've used these successfully with dope to hold them down, but wouldn't be sure about the Poly...I will make a test sample and see for myself! But don't wait, I'm a sloooow builder.
W.
Rusty, you were right about your initial question, but as usual these things often take left turns!
lol! i don't want to dive off the subject, but your question was specifically will the poly hold cloth hinges. I've tried it several times, and i say, no its not strong enough. I've done the dope technique, and it works great. but i don't think the poly is the same strength. hope this helps! ;D ;D
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Dane,
Will definitely take that under advisement!
Thanks.
W.