Author Topic: Tape Residue (Read 3416 times)

Zuriel Armstrong · « **on:** April 10, 2011, 09:40:22 AM »

I have a plane I started building a couple of years ago and recently got it back out to work on again. When I put the plane away, I taped all of the molded shells in place to store it. Now I have a deep tape residue that I DO NOT have a clue how to remove. I have currently not tried anything as I only want to do this once.

HELP!!!

Many thanks.

Zuriel

Bootlegger · « **Reply #1 on:** April 10, 2011, 10:05:05 AM »

...ZMan you might try some Naptha. If you can use it in an inconspicous spot try that first.
I have used it more than once. And it works.It can be found at home improvement stores.

Neville Legg · « **Reply #2 on:** April 10, 2011, 11:11:36 AM »

Meths, IPA, or cigarette lighter fuel will shift it

Cheers

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #3 on:** April 10, 2011, 04:25:11 PM »

Lighter fluid is almost pure Naptha, but Naptha is cheaper, comes in bigger jugs. It won't harm a dope finish, and is commonly used as a final wash to remove dust, finger prints and cat hair before the next coat.

Steve

Zuriel Armstrong · « **Reply #4 on:** April 10, 2011, 05:00:03 PM »

Thanks for the responses. I appreciate the help very much.

Zuriel

PJ Rowland · « **Reply #5 on:** April 10, 2011, 11:36:52 PM »

I like a product called "yuck off "

Bill Little · « **Reply #6 on:** April 10, 2011, 11:55:36 PM »

Z-Man, Naphtha is my "go to" remover. I buy gallon cans at Wally World real cheap. If you can't get there or out to Lowes or Home Depot, go to the 7-11 and get a small bottle of Ronson lighter fluid, Same-Same just costs more.

3M makes a tape adhesive remover that will do the job, not harm paint and costs about 25X as much. Haven't smelt it lately, but IIRC, it sure smelt like naptha.

By the way, naphtha will remove ALPS printed decals........

Any work on the Yak-9 plans?

Bill

Zuriel Armstrong · « **Reply #7 on:** April 11, 2011, 05:29:58 AM »

Howdy Bill,

The tape residue I am trying to remove is on bare balsa without any dope applied. Is naptha still the recommended solution?

Thanks again,
Zuriel

Paul Taylor · « **Reply #8 on:** April 11, 2011, 07:12:35 AM »

You could just cover it up with PINK paint?

Brian Massey · « **Reply #9 on:** April 11, 2011, 08:50:34 AM »

Quote from: Steve Helmick on April 10, 2011, 04:25:11 PM

Lighter fluid is almost pure Naptha, but Naptha is cheaper, comes in bigger jugs. It won't harm a dope finish, and is commonly used as a final wash to remove dust, finger prints and cat hair before the next coat. Steve

How about hot dog juice and mustard stains?

Brian

Randy Powell · « **Reply #10 on:** April 11, 2011, 09:31:04 AM »

Much like PJ, I use some stuff called Goop Off. Probably the same thing. It's for removing things like bugs from a car front. Big thing is, you want something that will not leave residue in the wood. Might even try a small amount of paint stripper if the Naphtha doesn't get it all off. Neither leave a residue.

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #11 on:** April 11, 2011, 09:51:55 AM »

I've had good luck with lacquer thinner, or maybe try the thinner for the finish base you intend to use.

W.D. Roland · « **Reply #12 on:** April 11, 2011, 10:17:27 AM »

Just a few to add to the other ideas.

Spray brake cleaner and flush the you know what out of it.( carb cleaner may have some lubrication or inhibitors?)

K2R spot remover? Have not seen this stuff for awhile.
If it will remove Castor oil from wood it should do same for tape?

Please post what works to help with my future

situations.

David
Does not mess up as much as the old days.

jim ivey · « **Reply #13 on:** April 11, 2011, 12:49:54 PM »

Bear Grease!!!

jus kiddin "coleman camping fluid" it wont attack anything and drys clean as does m.e.k. but be careful with the latter. jim

Zuriel Armstrong · « **Reply #14 on:** April 11, 2011, 01:09:38 PM »

Quote from: Paul Taylor on April 11, 2011, 07:12:35 AM

You could just cover it up with PINK paint?

I could, but it would be a Pink Tiger at this point.

Paul Taylor · « **Reply #15 on:** April 11, 2011, 01:14:21 PM »

OK you did not spell Force right, and now you messed this up. It's the pink panther.

Bill Little · « **Reply #16 on:** April 14, 2011, 09:35:33 AM »

Quote from: Zuriel Armstrong on April 11, 2011, 05:29:58 AM

Howdy Bill,

The tape residue I am trying to remove is on bare balsa without any dope applied. Is naptha still the recommended solution?

Thanks again,
Zuriel

Hi Z-Man,

Sorry, been busy for a couple days...... naphtha is what I would use first on the bare wood. It's the cheapest alternative, and if it doesn't work go to the lacquer thinner since it is bare wood. The naphtha evaporates so fast and doesn't seem to leave any residue that would harm any materials like dope that will go on the wood. It is a great, pretty safe, cleaning solution for the types of paints we use. It "can" be used for thinning enamels and often is/was , but doesn't seem to affect lacquers and urethanes at all. Plus, I use it with talcum powder to remove oil from balsa. Works great for that.

Bill

Zuriel Armstrong · « **Reply #17 on:** April 14, 2011, 10:41:25 AM »

Thanks Bill,

I've been a little under the weather the past few days and have not had the chance to try anything yet. As fast as I build, I could use soap and water and it would be well dried before I went to the next step

Zuriel

Paul Taylor · « **Reply #18 on:** April 14, 2011, 12:33:42 PM »

Hey at your age Z, we will allow you to be SLOOOW.

Zuriel Armstrong · « **Reply #19 on:** April 14, 2011, 08:58:01 PM »

I'm just a kid in this hobby at 51

Paul Taylor · « **Reply #20 on:** April 15, 2011, 07:00:19 AM »

Your still older then me old man.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #21 on:** April 15, 2011, 10:03:37 AM »

Quote from: Zuriel Armstrong on April 14, 2011, 08:58:01 PM

I'm just a kid in this hobby at 51

You kids are something else. Of course a few out there call me kid and I am 69.

Bill Little · « **Reply #22 on:** April 15, 2011, 11:59:16 AM »

Quote from: Zuriel Armstrong on April 14, 2011, 08:58:01 PM

I'm just a kid in this hobby at 51

Wow, Z-Man, I think I can almost remember being 51......... but I was rode hard and put up wet too many times!

Big Bear

Paul Taylor · « **Reply #23 on:** April 15, 2011, 02:54:30 PM »

Quote from: Bill Little on April 15, 2011, 11:59:16 AM

Wow, Z-Man, I think I can almost remember being 51......... but I was rode hard and put up wet too many times!

Big Bear

WOW I have not heard that expression is awhile. Last time I heard that I was a kid working on a horse farm.

Bill Little · « **Reply #24 on:** April 16, 2011, 01:46:56 AM »

Quote from: Paul Taylor on April 15, 2011, 02:54:30 PM

WOW I have not heard that expression is awhile. Last time I heard that I was a kid working on a horse farm.

Hi Paul,

I was raised by a Grandfather born in 1905 in the South from the time I was three months old. I heard all kinds of the old sayings all the time, and they just became second nature. Another of his favorites was "Don't worry about the mule going blind until you get the cart loaded." That always kept me focused on doing first things first. If you didn't get the cart loaded, you didn't have to worry about the mule. Naturally, he had several ways of "keeping me focused"! LOL!!! And none were what I would term really "physical".....

I have never really been too small, but from the waist up he always made me look like a small child. I never really felt the need to find out what would happen if I didn't listen and do what he said. I did hae a momentary lapse in good judgement one day when I was 16, but that's a story for a different time.

And it never happened again.

Bill

sleepy gomez · « **Reply #25 on:** April 16, 2011, 08:28:13 PM »

Naptha will leave trace amounts of petroleum in the wood. The traces f petroleum will clean off of a nonporous surface but not bare wood. My first suggestion is to use DENATURED alcohol. Isopropol alcohol contains water, see the label. Brake clean in a spray can will work well and leaves no residue. If you use brake clean do not get the "green" kind, it is very flamable while the original that is perchloretyhene will actually put out a fire.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #26 on:** April 17, 2011, 08:35:34 AM »

Have you tried removing the glue the hobby shops have on the back of the labels that tell size and price? I usually sand the surfce a little. Have not found anything to remove all of it on the balsa I get. On bare wood a couple of coats of dope or sealer takes care of it for me any way. Good advice given for finished surfaces so far.

Michael Brooks · « **Reply #27 on:** April 19, 2011, 04:22:18 AM »

Hey Z!

I've been out of the loop. Which plane is this?

Mike