Wheel collars on push rods

[Bill Morell]

Got a friend of mine involved in U/C building and flying. Several times I have tried to emphasize that wheel collars are not real good ideas for securing the rod at the control horn. However he likes them. I would appreciate any comments in regards to this type of securement, pro or con. Maybe when I show him the response's I can change his way of thinking.

[John Rist]

It's probably OK if you file a flat and use Loctite.     It's no different than squiring wheels.

[Dave_Trible]

Bill that’s all I’ve used for decades.  I put a dab of JB weld on them to be sure they stay.  Soldering is the real no-no due to corrosion.

Dave

[Paul Walker]

I used them on both B-17's to facilitate the take apart procedure. I left the 3/32 wire another 1/2 inch long and slid a section of small fuel tubing over it to keep the collar from coming off if the Allen screw came loose. Worked fine.

[Jim Carter]

Hi Bill!  Set your mind at ease!  I as well as many others have used the technique time and time again!  Yes, filing small flat spots, Loctite and or JB Weld may be good ideas for that peace of mind but generally speaking the use of collars works and works quite well.  Just for the record, I've never lost a plane because of a wheel collar failure ... lack of skill, yes ... line failure, yes ... too close to the ground, yes ... but collar failure, never  !! 

[Bill Morell]

Hi Bill!  Set your mind at ease!  I as well as many others have used the technique time and time again!  Yes, filing small flat spots, Loctite and or JB Weld may be good ideas for that peace of mind but generally speaking the use of collars works and works quite well.  Just for the record, I've never lost a plane because of a wheel collar failure ... lack of skill, yes ... line failure, yes ... too close to the ground, yes ... but collar failure, never  !!

My mind is at ease as I use ball links!

[BillP]

Never had a problem with wheel collars on control horns or wheels. I don't do flat spots, locktite, jb weld, tubing or any other method as a keeper. The only reason I can think of for sliding off is using the wrong size collar and/or not tightening enough.

[Dennis Toth]

Bill,
One thing you can suggest is that he make sure the bend going through the horn is 90 deg (to keep side loads to a minimum) with either a washers soldered as a stop or a second collar. Also, the open end should be positioned to point to the outside of the circle so as to have the rod pushing against the horn not pulling it out.

Best,     DennisT

[Dan McEntee]

Never had a problem with wheel collars on control horns or wheels. I don't do flat spots, locktite, jb weld, tubing or any other method as a keeper. The only reason I can think of for sliding off is using the wrong size collar and/or not tightening enough.

   What Bill said, but will add that the allen wrenches that come with the wheel collars are the poorest quality on the face of the earth ! Most wheel collars take a .050" allen wrench, and even among quality tools like Bondaus and such, if you try several different brands, you will find they are vary a bit in how they fit. I have purchased several of the screw drive style wrenches like the R/C car guys use on the grub screws that hold drive gears on motors. They are usually hardened, and are replaceable. Even some of those can be a bit sloppy so it pays to test how they fit. They are pricey, but worth every penny so you don't strip  the hex in the grub screw. And above all, if you notice some slop in what ever you use, I can guarantee you that the grub screw will round off the wrench, and it's time to grind off just a bit of the end, and don't round the end back off, leave it square. I NEVER use the ball end wrenches on these either. The process of making the ball end actually makes the hex a fuzz smaller and that aggravates the problem. I don't care what any one says !! After having to deal with this kind of stuff on machinery and hobby shop customers stuff for the last 4 years, I'm pretty familiar with what works and what won't. If you put a screw driver in the hand of 50 random different people, you will observe that many ways to use and abuse the tool! 
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

[Gary Dowler]

I used them on both B-17's to facilitate the take apart procedure. I left the 3/32 wire another 1/2 inch long and slid a section of small fuel tubing over it to keep the collar from coming off if the Allen screw came loose. Worked fine.

Very simple and straightforward answer to the problem.  I’ve wondered about wheel collars in these applications. The ones  I’ve used, I’ve usually filed a short flat spot for the set screw, leaving a little full diameter section at the very end.   Your method is easier, and obviously it works.   We learn more every day! Lol.

Gary

[Bill Morell]

Thank you to all for your answers!

[Dave Harmon]

I got tired of the set screw thing as well....so...I started using hex head bolts where real torque can be applied time after time without rounding off the tool or stripping the head of the screw.
Screw sizes for the collars we commonly use are 4-40 and 6-32.
I get 1/4" length by the 100 from McMaster-Carr.
usually I don't file a flat spot anymore due to the much greater torque that can be applied.
But....I still use Loctite on all of them.

Part of the problem with set screws is the hex filling up with dirt and mung so the tool will not go all the way in. On wheel collars that are used on dirt circles I started facing the set screw/bolt to the rear to prevent most of the dirt from packing in there.
Most R/C planes are flown off hard surfaces so not as much a problem with those.