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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Avaiojet on August 04, 2014, 08:03:53 AM
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I went through my stash and found this NVA. Not sure what it is but it could be OS?
Could be a better option for the McCoy 35. The OEM McCoy NVA needs a large hole. I decided to fill the hole and just use a notch. Cleaner look.
This will allow for the removal and placement of the engine without removing the NV.
The needle on this NVA could be straightened and made longer for use in the P-40 application quite easily.
So, anyone know what it is? I could use a couple.
Thanks in advance.
Charles
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Hey Charles,
That is a Super Tigre needle valve. You can get replacement needles with longer length (and complete assemblies) from various people such as Leonard at Stuka Stunt, or Eric at RSM. I think Randy Smith has versions with improvements.
Yours looks like one from a Super Tigre G-51 of recent vintage, if I had to guess.
Super Tigre needle assemblies are bigger diameter than OS needles.
-Chris
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That's the shortest supertiger nva, I believe they made 3 others that were longer. The tiger nva I got from Leonard at stuka stunt wasn't made right. It had no seat for the tapered part of the needle and metered the fuel poorly by covering the exit hole, I would steer clear.
MM
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Chris,
Thanks for that info.
That's the shortest supertiger nva, I believe they made 3 others that were longer. The tiger nva I got from Leonard at stuka stunt wasn't made right. It had no seat for the tapered part of the needle and metered the fuel poorly by covering the exit hole, I would steer clear.
MM
Motorman,
Steer clear of Leonard or the ST nva? LL~ LL~ LL~
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Chris,
Thanks for that info.
Motorman,
Steer clear of Leonard or the ST nva? LL~ LL~ LL~
I'm thinking Leonard had them made by someone that didn't do it right, I sent mine back. Here's a link if you want a good one http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFY25&P=7
MM
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Motorman,
What a guy!
Thank you for making my life a bit easier. H^^
Only thing is, I have to extend the needle a bit longer for my application.
A small task, but worth it
Thanks again.
Charles
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I've been using ST NVAs since about 1975. I have avoided aftermarket examples, and have heard bad things about some of them. My ST NVAs are not perfect, but I have used them enough that I am satisfied with them. I have a nut driver which fits the spraybar hex and filed a couple of cheap flat wrenches to fit, as well . Trick is to get the spraybar tight enough that tightening or loosening the collet does not move it. Also to get the collet just right so the needle can be adjusted, but will not vibrate and change settings. There is a Harry Higley 'long and strong' needle which is about three times as long as shown. The HH needle works fine.
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I've been using ST NVAs since about 1975. I have avoided aftermarket examples, and have heard bad things about some of them. My ST NVAs are not perfect, but I have used them enough that I am satisfied with them. I have a nut driver which fits the spraybar hex and filed a couple of cheap flat wrenches to fit, as well . Trick is to get the spraybar tight enough that tightening or loosening the collet does not move it. Also to get the collet just right so the needle can be adjusted, but will not vibrate and change settings. There is a Harry Higley 'long and strong' needle which is about three times as long as shown. The HH needle works fine.
Jim,
Where do I get the HH needle?
Charles
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I'm thinking Leonard had them made by someone that didn't do it right, I sent mine back. Here's a link if you want a good one http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFY25&P=7
MM
Those have been out of stock for a long time at Tower. I have had 2 of them on back order since December 2009.
I would cancel the back order but now I am curious to see if they are ever made again for Tower.
-Chris
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Those have been out of stock for a long time at Tower. I have had 2 of them on back order since December 2009.
I would cancel the back order but now I am curious to see if they are ever made again for Tower.
-Chris
Chris,
Also, here's the thing, when Tower has them, the batch they get could be of the same quality as Leonard's.
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Charles - contact me, I may be able to help you.
Bob Z.
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I'm pretty sure Harry Higley passed on a few years ago. I remember that there was a sale of a lot of his items. I know that I bought some items that I was fond of including needle valves.
That said I don't think holding your breath for an order fill would be healthy or useful. I'm still waiting for an item from MECOA since 1989 go figure.
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I'm pretty sure Harry Higley passed on a few years ago. I remember that there was a sale of a lot of his items. I know that I bought some items that I was fond of including needle valves.
That said I don't think holding your breath for an order fill would be healthy or useful. I'm still waiting for an item from MECOA since 1989 go figure.
LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~
1989!
Dennis, you made me laugh out loud! That is so funny and so true.
I called HH, they haven't had any needles in two years. They are done with that.
Plan B.
What's plan B? n~
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RSM has long ST replacement needles
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If you don't wish to use ST Needle Valves then Aero Products (Randy Smith) sells a similar but improved needle valve assembly in various sizes that is close to perfection. I use them in just about everything.
Randy Cuberly
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I have had great success using Enya needle valve assemblies. They work great in Fox 35's and also in the FP 35's. Enya part number is 29420. You can order direct from Japan but takes a couple weeks to get here. Edit: this needle valve is good from .25 through .40 size, bigger then .40 use the 60220
http://www.enya-engine.com/index_E.htm (http://www.enya-engine.com/index_E.htm)
I have also had problems with the super tiger needles with the collet not holding. Another reason I like the Enya is it's flexible and I can get my sausage fingers away from the prop a little better, especially on the Fox with it's very short front end.
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FYI, the ST Clone NV Assy's are not made by Leonard, but for RSM. RSM obviously has them made in a 'yob shop' in the LA area. The first one I used was in a Magnum XL .25, and it had to be fully closed to be lean enough. I think it was because the threads weren't long enough. I took it out of the .25 and put it into a .46LA and it worked perfectly fine, due to increased fuel requirement of the bigger engine. The Clone thread is different (USNEF, I expect) than the metric thread of the genuine articles. Doesn't make them bad, but they don't interchange.
One thing you might appreciate knowing...it's that bent handle that makes the ST type NV tend to self-adjust. Put a round knob of some sort on it and it won't do that. A hex nut and matching nut driver would work, but soft solder isn't going to hold up, I don't think. Sta-Brite might work ok.
The very best NV Assy's you can get are sold by Randy Smith. y1 Steve
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One thing you might appreciate knowing...it's that bent handle that makes the ST type NV tend to self-adjust. Put a round knob of some sort on it and it won't do that. A hex nut and matching nut driver would work, but soft solder isn't going to hold up, I don't think. Sta-Brite might work ok.
The very best NV Assy's you can get are sold by Randy Smith. y1 Steve
Steve,
Thanks for the reply and the info.
I thought Sta-Brite required a torch, not a soldering iron, because of the heat temperature needed?
Charles
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I always used a basic propane torch for Stay-Brite. Can't recall ever trying a soldering gun. D>K Steve
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I always used a basic propane torch for Stay-Brite. Can't recall ever trying a soldering gun. D>K Steve
Sta-Bright works fine with a soldering iron, since it isn't really silver solder. It will eat the tip away if you use the supplied flux.
Brett