Gotcha Streak questions

[Richard Grogan]

Guys,
I have searched our site, and have found little on the subject directly. Would a FP.35 be a good choice for this, or would a Brodak .25 be enough power? Also, can anyone share any tricks/tips to make it more durable/crash friendly/capable for practicing the stunt pattern? Also on covering/finishing the model- what works/looks the best in the air? Comments?

Pretty please,with sugar on top???  

[Damian_Sheehy]

Rich,

Check this link on Phil Cartier's site;
http://home.earthlink.net/~philcartier/webcat/Descriptions/truebeam.html

He says you can optionally add more strength to foam core wings by applying a skin of heavyweight tissue and water based polyurethane in addition to the film.

I just got a quad set of 460 cores from him in the mail today and I plan to put them on a home-made low-cost profile for my learning escapades.

I plan to use an Enya .25 ss with BB and an old .29 IV PB, and he said both motors would work fine.


Damian

[Richard Grogan]

Thanks Damian for the info. It will certainly help! Looks like Phil really knows his stuff.(literally)

 It's amazing no one else knows anything about this plane.I had heard from some local flyers that it is a popular trainer? Mostly on here, it's been the Ukey that a few have spoken of.

Thanks again D!

[phil c]

Guys,  the Streak III and the other Corehouse designs for stunt are a bit different, so it takes a looooooooooooong time for diehard modellers to pick up the idea.  If if all balsa with a 16 coat finish, sanding between every coat, is your cup of tea, you probably won't like it.  On the other hand, if you would like a high performance, crash resistant, profile stunter it works pretty darn well.  The hardest part to get around is cutting the wing cores.  Having cut thousands by hand, it is not hard.  Trying for the  first time you'll find it takes a lot of practice, and the mistakes are just junk.  You can't recut a foam panel and re-use it the way you can splice and fill and sand balsa.  So the best bet for a first try is to buy the wing cores.

Enough of the ad.

Go fly what you like the best.
 and fly it like the best.

[Ward Van Duzer]

Phil's right! I wrote these up in my Stunt News articles maybe 20 years ago! We built several of his combat versions with Fox 25' and 35's in them and a number with FP's. All worked fine. Biggest problem back then was the construction of Phil's combat fuselages. Very Complex. (Sorry Phil) So we went to using the wings built as a single unit and tissue covered with urathane. We added Stunt styled profile fuselages to taste. They are great, strong, cheap, and can be pretty!

Ward-O 

[ray copeland]

Phil's cores can also be used in a full fuselage quite well. This is a Gotcha wing set (under 15$) and balsa body now sporting a Thunder Tiger gp 42 that flies great. 

[phil c]

...... Biggest problem back then was the construction of Phil's combat fuselages. Very Complex. (Sorry Phil).....

Ward-O 

Cripes Ward,  the usual slow fuse back then had 4 parts, if I remember right.  Two motor mounts, the center rib, and a bass boom.

For a better way, I'd recommend using the SC-2 construction from the 1979 Flying Models plans.  The wing is built an covered and slides into a 1/32 in. ply saddle glued into the cutout in the fuselage.  If you do bust up the wing, replacing it is pretty easy.  The Gotcha Streak III uses this style of construction.  I'd even use it in a full fuse design(with a few mods to mount the bellcrank) in the wing.

[Richard Grogan]

Great info guys. Thank you! Phil, what is the airfoil similar to? (ie Nobler,Vector,Ringmaster ect..)

[Damian_Sheehy]

 For a better way, I'd recommend using the SC-2 construction from the 1979 Flying Models plans.  The wing is built an covered and slides into a 1/32 in. ply saddle glued into the cutout in the fuselage.

This is what I am planning to do    I ordered the cores a week ago and they arrived in a few days. I ordered the plans from FM a few days before ordering the cores and I am still waiting on the plans  

Rich, I don't mean to cut in, but since I have a Ring (S1-A) and G460 cores (if you want to consider going that route) I can tell you that the thickness to chord on the Ring is about 0.13 and the t/C on the 460's is about 0.155, so I would expect more favorable handling wrt stall - and more forgiving for learning stunts. (You probably read the post on the TBOTR regarding the stops on the elevator travel).

Perhaps Phil can comment on the Streak section. . .

[phil c]

Great info guys. Thank you! Phil, what is the airfoil similar to? (ie Nobler,Vector,Ringmaster ect..)

The airfoil is in a class by itself.  Drawn per Bill Netzeband's recommendations.  The leading edge is a constant radius of about 3/8 in.(10 percent of the thickness.  The high point is at 20 %, where the spars are.  The front curve is from an old ship's curve, and then straight back to the trailing edge.  More modern combat airfoils have the high point a bit further forward and use a blunter, baseball bat curve and will stall a bit later.  This airfoil will stall and drop the outboard wing if you try and drive it too hard around a loop.  Similar to the Ringmaster and most of the overloaded old planes, but not nearly as bad.

[Richard Grogan]

The airfoil is in a class by itself.  Drawn per Bill Netzeband's recommendations.  The leading edge is a constant radius of about 3/8 in.(10 percent of the thickness.  The high point is at 20 %, where the spars are.  The front curve is from an old ship's curve, and then straight back to the trailing edge.  More modern combat airfoils have the high point a bit further forward and use a blunter, baseball bat curve and will stall a bit later.  This airfoil will stall and drop the outboard wing if you try and drive it too hard around a loop.  Similar to the Ringmaster and most of the overloaded old planes, but not nearly as bad.

Thanks Phil! I got one in the mail Thursday. Interesting construction. The question is: What do you suggest doing to the fuse, to make wing replacement slide in as a one piece wing, vs the sorta- I-beam,stick to each half to either side of the fuse construction? I would like to make it with slide in wing replacement, but looks like this fuse isn't tall enough to do it on without making it too weak, structurally.

 BTW, those are beautiful cores!I see alot of potential with designs, using these cores as a starting point.