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Author Topic: what about printing metallic decals?  (Read 1703 times)

Offline Robert McHam

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what about printing metallic decals?
« on: August 13, 2007, 03:34:55 PM »
I read in another thread about the Alps MD5000 printer being able to print true metallics!!!

Not wanting to hijack the other thread I started this one.

How can this be and will any other brand of printer do this? If not why?

Are there any pictures of these graphics?

Robert 
« Last Edit: August 13, 2007, 08:53:52 PM by Robert McHam »
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Offline Clint Ormosen

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Re: what about printing metallic decals?
« Reply #1 on: August 13, 2007, 10:47:32 PM »
Even if it's true and metallic decals can be printed, what do you use over the decal to fuel proof it? I don't think printer ink is fuel proof, is it?
Maybe there is a special metallic cartridge for printers.
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Offline Robert McHam

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Re: what about printing metallic decals?
« Reply #2 on: August 13, 2007, 10:58:00 PM »
It is my understanding that  one should use clear polyurethane with UV additives for fuel proofing.

Robert
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Offline PatRobinson

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Re: what about printing metallic decals?
« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2007, 09:23:26 AM »
Robert,
In the March/April issue of Stunt News on page 58 it talks about a
"Toner Transfer System" which is essentially creating your own rub-on graphics.  Go to :   www.pulsar.gs   
 You will see that this system which works with a laser printer or a copier but not ink jet will do metallic rub-on graphics and even photo images as well.
It is a little pricey but it will allow you to produce whatever graphics you want.  The advantage of the rub-on over vinyl  graphics is it has no edge
to level out with clear. 
I am just trying to figure when I can work it into my hobby budget.

                                 Hope this helps,
                                                             Pat Robinson

Offline Bill Little

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Re: what about printing metallic decals?
« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2007, 09:44:01 AM »
The ALPS MD 5000 is a dry ink system.  The cartridges are "ribbons" and there is a "heat transfer" system.  Clear Lacquer (or Dope) can be used as long as you DO NOT apply the forst two or three coats heavy.  They must be dusted on and allowed to flash off.  I have hit them kinda heavy with clear lacwuer and they were fine.  But it'as risky if you go heavy.  Krylon with eat them!

It isn't "ink" so that is the difference.  They have a true Chrome and Gold foil plus silver and gold metallics.

The printers have been in use in the "plastic model" side of the industry for several years. 

Main drawback is the fact that ALPS (based in Japan) decided to drop all service at the beginning of this year.  There is no one *yet* offering to repair them.  Negotiations are going on right now between the lawyers to gain the rights to manufactures the printer cartridges, which ALPS holds the sole rights to the procees of making them,

I am sure that there will develope a service industry for these printers in the not too distant future.

OKI and Kodak have printers with these same features (especially the ability to print "white") but last time I checked, they run in the $4000 range.  A *little* to rich for most of us for a "hobby" printer! LOL!!

The "home" *rub on* (remember Letra Set??) machine does work.
« Last Edit: August 14, 2007, 01:37:57 PM by Bill Little »
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Charles Kourmpates

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Re: what about printing metallic decals?
« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2007, 06:45:04 PM »
I've been making model graphics for years.

 I don't make "decals" but many of my customers order cut vinyl graphics and lettering in metallic. They also order a vinyl that resembles "Metalflake."

 Some say they clear the vinyl.

 I'd make "decals" if I had a source for the "material." I've never looked into it.

 The art is relatively easy, because I do art all the time.

 If someone would provide a source for decal paper, or send some sample sheets, I'd probably start doing them.

 I've been in R/C for the last 30 odd years, I just started up in CL, so I'm actually a bit unfamiliar with what's used for graphics?

 Because I paint my models, I'll have no choice, I gotta come up with something.

 Currently, I've always used a combination of "mask," hand painting and spray painting, both with jam guns and air brush.

 I did this model in the mid 80's. Took a Best Finish at the WRAM.

 This is my website:  cfcgraphics.com

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