Twister build questions, opinions?

[RDJeff]

Hi gang,

I'm just finishing up a Twister, and am seeking a little advice.  I built it Fancher style, with the the reinforced nose section, adjustable tank mount, turtleback canopy, and a 2" tail extension.  I also went with aluminum landing gear.

Due to the fact that it's -27F outside, and my shop is not heated, I'm forced to build in the living room, so using dope is out of the question.  I covered the wings with Monokote, and have been using Rustoleum painted on with foam brushes.  The finish turns out very glossy, and is actually not very heavy. 

I weighed all the pieces, including the engine, and it came up to 43 ounces.  The only thing to add is the epoxy to hold on the wings and tail.

First question is whether this is a good weight.  My research says I'm in the ballpark.

Next, which engine should I run? I have FP35s and FP40s.  I really want to run one with a diesel head on it.

Thanks everyone!

Jeff

[Bill Little]

Hi Jeff,

It sounds good as far as weight goes.  I would go with the .40FP, it doesn't take a lot more fuel IIRC, it is slightly lighter than the .35FP, and in stock form will turn a slightly bigger prop.  Run it in a wet 2 mode if it is stock around 4 pitch with the prop.  I love the .40FP but all mine are Byron Barker or Randy Smith reworks and run 10 1/2 X 5 Rev Ups in a high rpm 4-2, sorta.

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

[Dan McEntee]

  Hi Jeff;
   You are well within the ball park on weight, if you factored in the weight of an engine, tank and all other components. Make sure you get good bare wood to bare wood contact between parts when you assemble the model. I would go with the FP.40 just because of the extra power if you need it, but the .35 will work well at that weight also. I wouldn't mess with the diesel head, others have tried it and moved on. With the FP.40 I like a Thunderbolt or other hot plug, two head gaskets, and an APC 11.5-4 prop with a take off RPM in the high 9000 RPM range to start with. Use a good caster/synthetic blend of fuel inthe 20 to 22 percent range, and start with a 63 foot line length from handle to centerline to start with. I like a lap time anywhere from 5 to 5.5 seconds depending on the airplane, and if you start out with lines a bit long, you can always shorten them once you have the engine happy. When I build a plane and use the monokote/rattle can finish system, I assemble the airplane first to make sure all the glue joints are nice and tight. Then apply the covering on the wings up to within 1/8" of the fuselage. Then make a fillets from finish cure epoxy and micro ballons and apply it to the wing joint and overlap the edge of the covering by at least 1/8". This seals the covering and keeps fuel and exhaust residue from getting under it. Then finish the model in the usual way. If you want to make it quicker, even bathtub caulk or even regular silicone can be applied in the same manor to seal the wing joint and make a fillet. I've done this on almost all of the ARF profiles I have ever built and has held up well. Paint won't stick to the silicone or caulk, but they are available in some different colors, and just pick one that looks best. Works great with an all white airplane and white bathtub caulk.
   Good luck and have fun with it,
   Dan McEntee

[RDJeff]

Thanks for all the tips!

Just for grins, I weighed some engines, and the 35 weighs 9.1 oz, while the 40 weighs 8.9, and the stock muffler weighs 2.8.

I'm a diesel fan, and I already have a MECOA diesel head that I want to run on something.  Does anybody have experience with these and can recommend one over the other?

How about the unusual finishing method I'm using?

[rustler]

I'm a diesel fan, and I already have a MECOA diesel head that I want to run on something.  Does anybody have experience with these and can recommend one over the other?

Time for Jim Thomerson to chime in here. This is very much like what he has done and gained experience of.

[Andrew Tinsley]

Jim Has specialised in Tower 40s that have been dieselised. I am sure he will chime in, but he seems to love them.
I don't know about people having tried them and moved on. A good diesel stunt run is like a piped glow without the pipe. I have flown both diesels and piped glows and my vote is diesel, but then I am a Brit and they have a thing about diesels .

Regards,

Andrew.

[John Miller]

I used to fly a F Twister with a K&B Sportster converted to diesel. I used a Davis Diesel head, and a new Super Tiger bushed rod. I still have the engine, and it continues to run good.

The smaller engine had no problems pulling the plane through the pattern. I really ought to build another plane to mount and fly this engine on.

[Bill Little]

I used to fly a F Twister with a K&B Sportster converted to diesel. I used a Davis Diesel head, and a new Super Tiger bushed rod. I still have the engine, and it continues to run good.

The smaller engine had no problems pulling the plane through the pattern. I really ought to build another plane to mount and fly this engine on.

Was it the .28 Sportster?  Where did you get the parts?

Thanks!

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

[John Miller]

Was it the .28 Sportster?  Where did you get the parts?

Thanks!

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Yes, it was the .28 Sportster. I called Davis And he sent me the rod, and the diesel head. It works darned good.