thundertiger42gp parts

[Bootlegger]

 Guy's I picked up a pair of these engines, and I need some info, such what fuel to use blended or all synthectic a good size break in  prop and any other info to run them in.  They are used engines from e bay, does any one have a copy of the factory instructions for run-in also,  Thanks a lot..Bootlegger

[Bootlegger]

  Something tht I forgot,shoulgd should it be muffled, or open exaust , don' need  to cook it11
 Agin thanx guy's   Bootlegger

[Dave_Trible]

Gil I picked up a few of those pretty cheap to give a try.  They are difficult to attach a CL venturi to so Jim Lee came up with a modification and set up several of them for me.  My experience is that these are a POWERHOUSE! but like to run one speed-flat out.  There is nothing close to a four-two break which may be fine if you use a flat pitch prop and let 'er rip.  Otherwise they seem to be a fine engine.  I was running something like 10-20 fuel in them.  Break in wasn't much,  maybe 15 minutes on a light wood prop like a 9-6 running on the rich side.  I believe I settled on an 11-4 for flying.

Dave

[Dave_Trible]

Gil I picked up a few of those pretty cheap to give a try.  They are difficult to attach a CL venturi to so Jim Lee came up with a modification and set up several of them for me.  My experience is that these are a POWERHOUSE! but like to run one speed-flat out.  There is nothing close to a four-two break which may be fine if you use a flat pitch prop and let 'er rip.  Otherwise they seem to be a fine engine.  I was running something like 10-20 fuel in them.  Break in wasn't much,  maybe 15 minutes on a light wood prop like a 9-6 running on the rich side.  I believe I settled on an 11-4 for flying.

Dave

I failed to answer all your questions; 
The fuel was 50/50 castor-synthetic.   Also I used the factory muffler.  These were made only in Taiwan and though they look like clones of some OS and other Thunder Tiger engines,  seem to share no like parts except the muffler and mounting dimensions.  Parts are non-existent except I saw one RC one line outlet that showed a few parts.  One I had needed a thrust washer.  I got lucky on Ebay for that in buying an old clapped out piece.  Nothing OS or TT was even close.

[Paul Wescott]

If they are used then they are probably beyond needing any run-in.  Put them on a plane and fly them.

They are ABN so they don’t require castor.  Unless you mix your own fuel just use whatever 5-10% nitro (probably car fuel) you can get off the shelf locally that has all synthetic oil in it.  Your engine will stay clean and shiny with no brown baked-on castor residue.

PW

[Ara Dedekian]

      Bootlegger,

              Here's my setup with a homemade venturi and OS needle and spray bar.  It was a totally fried RC engine when I found it and lucked out on a new piston and cylinder on eBay. I run it with GMA 10/22 fuel and a three blade 10/6 prop on a Twister. It's a one speed engine and takes me through the pattern quite nicely.

      Ara

[Dan McEntee]

If they are used then they are probably beyond needing any run-in.  Put them on a plane and fly them.

They are ABN so they don’t require castor.  Unless you mix your own fuel just use whatever 5-10% nitro (probably car fuel) you can get off the shelf locally that has all synthetic oil in it.  Your engine will stay clean and shiny with no brown baked-on castor residue.

PW

      If they are used, then they still may be closer to brand new. The term "used" is interchangeable with "previously owned" and doesn't necessarily mean the previous owner or owners knew what they were doing with these to make them run. I've found that a high percentage of people had no clue what they were doing back then. Make a few attempts, have no success, then off to the basement or shelf in the garage or attic. Especially 1/2A engines. I had a nice talk with Al Kelly from merlin Glow Plugs about this subject once and he was the first person to plant that idea in my head.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee