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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Ken Culbertson on August 30, 2018, 03:01:52 PM
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I want to build a "throw away" practice plane for the winter. EBay has a pretty good price on them right now but I have never flown either. Assuming I will "Fancherize" whatever I get is there that much difference? Also, I have heard that the Banshee is Classic Legal but I can't find the date Mike introduced it. Twister, not so much. FYI, I fly Expert but I am out of shape.
Thanks - Ken
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Twister is N-30 Legal :D:D
Having not ever flown a Banshee I cant tell you a about it. Having built and flown a Twister.... I Love It!!!! Except for when it hits the ground lol
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Either will do just fine. Get the one you think is prettier.
AFAIK Sig still sells the kits -- double-check that you're not spending more on eBay than you would with Sig.
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Either will do just fine. Get the one you think is prettier.
AFAIK Sig still sells the kits -- double-check that you're not spending more on eBay than you would with Sig.
They are both on sale for $57. Hard to beat that.
Ken
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Twister is N-30 Legal :D:D
Having not ever flown a Banshee I cant tell you a about it. Having built and flown a Twister.... I Love It!!!! Except for when it hits the ground lol
Thanks - I think we fly Classic/N-30 combined here. I am leaning towards the Twister. I have seen quite a few fly and they do very well.
Ken
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I got a banshee kit to build because it's classic legal.
The twister is super 70's and N30 legal, but there seems to be more classic categories at contests than the others. Having had both, I'd have both. I just love them.
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I got a banshee kit to build because it's classic legal
That seals it. - Thanks
Ken
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Banshee. If you have to "improve things" do the "Mr. Ugly" mods by Jack Sheeks.
I've seen a pretty much stock Banshee do patterns that I thought would do pretty well in expert if the judges could get past the idea of a profile kit-built at that level. I have yet to see a Twister fly that well--but then I never saw Ted fly his version. I have seen a lot of modified Twisters and I get less impressed with each one. Especially my own. Looks good but doesn't fly very well. It hunts and apparently mine isn't the only one.
I think a key to either of these is to avoid loading it down with a heavy engine. I have just about concluded that an LA46 is just too much for the wing on my Twister. I runs great--but doesn't make the plane a happy flier. I see a Banshee in my future....
My 2 cents,
Dave
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I don't know what a "throw away" airplane is. Maybe one for practice, where you don't much care if it crashes? I avoid crashing even practice planes. Because, after it crashes, it can't function as a practice plane.
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I don't know what a "throw away" airplane is. Maybe one for practice, where you don't much care if it crashes? I avoid crashing even practice planes. Because, after it crashes, it can't function as a practice plane.
By "Throw Away" I mean that I am going to throw it together in a couple of days, monokote it and just fly it till it drops. I haven't crashed anything (chipped a few props) since 1973 and I don't plan to start now!
Ken
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By "Throw Away" I mean that I am going to throw it together in a couple of days, monokote it and just fly it till it drops. I haven't crashed anything (chipped a few props) since 1973 and I don't plan to start now!
Ken
If you're flying Expert, do that with an Imitation instead of a Twister. It may take an extra day.
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If you're flying Expert, do that with an Imitation instead of a Twister. It may take an extra day.
Probably should but the $57 price on EBay won the day. I already have two PA capable ships with a 3rd on the bench. This will be my play toy and introduction to electric.
Ken
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You can get both from SIG for around 56 bucks. On E-Bay you have to watch they don't stick you with a big shipping bill..........
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I just got the Banshee from SIG for 66.95 including shipping...…….
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The history of the two airplanes are on the forums here somewhere. Mike Gretz spelled it out before he passed away. The Banshee was commissioned by Glenn Sig to Mike Stott to come up with an airplane that would fly like the Chipmunk, as the first run of the Chipmunk was a success for them. So Mike Stott laid the airplane out as you see it ion the plans designed around the Fox .35, and shows no muffler. Next to nothing in the nose allowed for the longish nose moment. I believe it was designed, built and flown before the Dec, 1969 cut off date and first kits hit the shelves after the first of the year. The Twister came later and I don't think either was published anywhere. Either airplane will do well, it just depends on the nut on the handle!! It depends on how well it's built, trimmed and flown. The modifications that are out there for both airplanes work but they DO add a fair amount of weight. Both airplanes are contest proven in their stock configuration. I have related the story here MANY times of a club member here, John Garrett, taking a stock Twister from beginner all the way to expert. I'm not talking about a series of airplanes, just one! He wore out three FP-.40s along the way, all but one of those stock also, I saw him put a whoopin on several piped models with that airplane. He crashed it a couple of times, and repaired it. The last time it was pretty severe, so we pulled the engine from the wreckage and stomped on the rest to discourage him from trying to resurrect it! Some one else had the correct answer, get both! Build them stock and have your own little fly off!
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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I've only flown a Banshee once, and it was horrible! Yes, it was Tim's.
His idea of the Imitation isn't a bad one, tho. The power for the Imitation is also very flexible. I have seen and launched Bob Duncan's (with a conventional side mount profile nose) with an Aero Tiger .36, and Paul Walker said recently that he had one years ago with a Super Tigre .60. The .46LA or a ST G.51 would be great. It'd be a great airplane, N30 legit I believe, and would be worth putting a little extra time into. y1 Steve
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If you're going to "Fancherize" it, the the Twister is hands down the better airplane. If the Banshee is modified in any way then it's not legal for Classic anyway. A stock Banshee with no mods is not much of a stunt plane other than just a trainer. Nose is too long and Stab and elevator is too small!
Definitely go for the Twister and Fancherize it. It'll work well for practice with just about any of the current 40's or an LA46.
Certainly the Imitation is the best airplane but definitely requires a lot more time and effort and expense to build and fly!
Randy Cuberly
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I've only flown a Banshee once, and it was horrible! Yes, it was Tim's.
His idea of the Imitation isn't a bad one, tho. The power for the Imitation is also very flexible. I have seen and launched Bob Duncan's (with a conventional side mount profile nose) with an Aero Tiger .36, and Paul Walker said recently that he had one years ago with a Super Tigre .60. The .46LA or a ST G.51 would be great. It'd be a great airplane, N30 legit I believe, and would be worth putting a little extra time into. y1 Steve
Can you expand on Horrible. n1 I was one click away from ordering one this afternoon. I would love to have an Imitation but it is just too big for what I want to accomplish and I already have a serious full size profile.
Ken
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Hi Ken,
I've flown the Twister and Banshee and the Twister flies a lot better all round, especially if you do the Ted Fancher mods. However, if you want to electrify it, then you most definitely want to lengthen the tail moment on the Twister. I've seen a few bad attempts at electrifying the Banshee. It just does not suit this mod. The Fox .35 with the muffler is so light so it's hard to replace. The closest engine I've found to replace the Fox, besides the LA .25, is the Enya .30 SS. It weighs about the same as the Fox without the muffler, and it comes with a very light muffler as well.
There are much better profile candidates out there for e-power. To mention one, I would go for Mike Pratt's Force or Primary Force. The nose on these planes is far easier to use for e-power and it's a more modern design that flies well.
Keith R
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Incidentally if you really want a first class Expert Level Practice airplane you should consider one of the SV11 ARF's with something like a Randy Smith B&B Magnum 52 or an OS 55ax for power. I have used the SV11 ARF and a 55AX as a practice plane in the past and believe me when I tell you it is indeed a real Expert level "Stunter" capable of flying 560 + patterns...(that's with no appearance points). As far as performance it gives up nothing (except of course appearance points).
Very quick to build and relatively inexpensive.
While you're flying it you could be building an SV11 from one of Randy's great kits and have a first class airplane that flies with the best, with very similar traits to your competition airplane. The SV11 is in my opinion as good as anything out there (with a pipe or muffler) and far better than most, depending of course on your personal likes.
Randy Cuberly
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From sig the twister is $53.95 and the banshee is $56.95 I would order it from sig over eBay
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Hi Ken,
I've flown the Twister and Banshee and the Twister flies a lot better all round, especially if you do the Ted Fancher mods. However, if you want to electrify it, then you most definitely want to lengthen the tail moment on the Twister. I've seen a few bad attempts at electrifying the Banshee. It just does not suit this mod. The Fox .35 with the muffler is so light so it's hard to replace. The closest engine I've found to replace the Fox, besides the LA .25, is the Enya .30 SS. It weighs about the same as the Fox without the muffler, and it comes with a very light muffler as well.
There are much better profile candidates out there for e-power. To mention one, I would go for Mike Pratt's Force or Primary Force. The nose on these planes is far easier to use for e-power and it's a more modern design that flies well.
Keith R
I might just know where there is an E-powered Primary Force I can hitch a ride on. I think I will wait till I find out. The Primary Force may be too big for the main reason I wanted a Twister (The Banshee is out now. Too many bad reviews from folks that know). I need a wingspan under 50" to fit into the space I have. I have a Nobler that I could use but I want a profile so I can screw around with stuff without getting out the E-Xacto knife. I also don't know if I want to practice flapless. Timing is different. I have flown a bunch of flapless planes but I have never flown a competitive pattern capable plane without flaps, I can only guess how much different (Please no Ringnmaster References, I am not Joe Gilbert). If chopping off 2" from the wing will work and those that know tell me the flaps don't matter then this may be the best cholce.
Thanks for suggesting it - Ken
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From sig the twister is $53.95 and the banshee is $56.95 I would order it from sig over eBay
Thanks for pointing that out! mw~
ken
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Incidentally if you really want a first class Expert Level Practice airplane you should consider one of the SV11 ARF's with something like a Randy Smith B&B Magnum 52 or an OS 55ax for power. I have used the SV11 ARF and a 55AX as a practice plane in the past and believe me when I tell you it is indeed a real Expert level "Stunter" capable of flying 560 + patterns...(that's with no appearance points). As far as performance it gives up nothing (except of course appearance points).
Very quick to build and relatively inexpensive.
While you're flying it you could be building an SV11 from one of Randy's great kits and have a first class airplane that flies with the best, with very similar traits to your competition airplane. The SV11 is in my opinion as good as anything out there (with a pipe or muffler) and far better than most, depending of course on your personal likes.
Randy Cuberly
Randy:
I love the SV11 but it is just too big for this project. Wingspan has to be under 50" to fit where it needs to go for transport. (If I can just figure out how to block these new annoying adds that cover up what I am writing every 15 seconds I will finish - Ok I killed it VD~ ) I also want a profile to learn the electric "gotcha's" before I bury it in a fuselage.
Ken
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I flew my Banshee with an OS FP 40 and won a lot of contests. After the first flight, I knew it was nose heavy and added tail weight to it. After that, flew great!! No muffler Mine was no dog. Still have it. With the exception of the MoBest, best profile I've had. Might add I built mine from plans, not the kit so I picked all the wood.
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Ken please check.your pm's
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Whichever one you choose I would use thicker wood for the stab, elevator and flaps and use carbon push rods. I have a Banshee with a bigger stab/elevator but I should have extended the tail of the fuselage and sheeted the leading edge also.
I think the Twister turns tighter but the Banshee flys great in the wind. You can definitely out fly the wing on both.
Motorman 8)
The nice thing about the Banshee and modern engines is that it has a looooong nose. So if you're going to use a modern muffled engine, you just move the wing forward rather than putting a plug in the fuselage.
I dunno if you need thinker wood in the stab, but definitely do the carbon pushrod thing.
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I would put some 1/64 plywood on the flaps and elevator so the metal joiner doesn’t brake through just 2 inch’s from the the fuse not on the whole surface
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The nice thing about the Banshee and modern engines is that it has a looooong nose. So if you're going to use a modern muffled engine, you just move the wing forward rather than putting a plug in the fuselage.
I dunno if you need thinker wood in the stab, but definitely do the carbon pushrod thing.
Going to use the best muffler made - a Cobra 2820/12 and Tom Morris will be getting an order no matter what I do. Don't know how thick the stab is but I have found that much of what we think is a weak stab is really a twisting fuselage or a flexing pushrod. I will be putting 2 1/4" carbon fiber arrow shafts from the midpoint of the wing back. If I make the stab thicker it will be to sand in an airfoil.
Thanks - ken
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Going to use the best muffler made - a Cobra 2820/12 and Tom Morris will be getting an order no matter what I do. Don't know how thick the stab is but I have found that much of what we think is a weak stab is really a twisting fuselage or a flexing pushrod. I will be putting 2 1/4" carbon fiber arrow shafts from the midpoint of the wing back. If I make the stab thicker it will be to sand in an airfoil.
Thanks - ken
Twister uses 3/16 flaps and tail. Stock sig anyways.
I kept the 3/16" flaps. But made horizontal stab and elevator 1/4". Plus triangle stock under it for reinforcement.
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FWIW, I built a Twister this past winter and used the Fancher mods along with electric conversion. I used the Brodak electric warbird conversion kit. I skipped the heavy 1/8” ply fuse doublers and cut some 1/32” doublers to replace them with.
It has been a great practice plane for me and is a way better plane than I am a pilot. I’m using the next frame size up Cobra as I used too heavy of wood for the new stab and elevator. Just used the bigger motor for the extra weight. Still needed an ounce of lead in the front of the battery compartment.
Old Castle 45amp Phoenix esc, 4S 2200 battery and 11x5.5 APC pusher prop.
Matt
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FWIW, I built a Twister this past winter and used the Fancher mods along with electric conversion. I used the Brodak electric warbird conversion kit. I skipped the heavy 1/8” ply fuse doublers and cut some 1/32” doublers to replace them with.
It has been a great practice plane for me and is a way better plane than I am a pilot. I’m using the next frame size up Cobra as I used too heavy of wood for the new stab and elevator. Just used the bigger motor for the extra weight. Still needed an ounce of lead in the front of the battery compartment.
Old Castle 45amp Phoenix esc, 4S 2200 battery and 11x5.5 APC pusher prop.
Matt
Thanks allot - I may be going this route. I have a couple of Cobra 2820/12 motors looking for a home. I have never used one but I am told it is about the same power as a 46. I am down to a Twister or a Primary Force. I am only concerned with it staying out on the lines well and turning well. I don't want to have to think about that stuff while working on my deficiencies. I saw a force fly that way today in a decent wind. I have seen a Twister do it earlier. So, I was feeling strongly both ways until I saw Joe Gilbert doing unnatural things %^@ with his Ringmaster.
Ken
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Thanks allot - I may be going this route. I have a couple of Cobra 2820/12 motors looking for a home. I have never used one but I am told it is about the same power as a 46. I am down to a Twister or a Primary Force. I am only concerned with it staying out on the lines well and turning well. I don't want to have to think about that stuff while working on my deficiencies. I saw a force fly that way today in a decent wind. I have seen a Twister do it earlier. So, I was feeling strongly both ways until I saw Joe Gilbert doing unnatural things %^@ with his Ringmaster.
Ken
I still say the Twister lol.
Was great meeting you yesterday Mr. Ken!
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I have had both and both are very good. I thought maybe the Banshee flew slightly better and I like the looks of it with the round tips better. But that’s personal taste. Either one should be “Fancherized”. You will find a post on this forum in the last few days on the Fancherized Twister, and the PDF for it as well, on the site. When you read the article you will see the mods apply to the Banshee as well.
Good Luck
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Hi Ken,
Like has been said before, either is a good choice for a quick model. Years ago, one of the Guy's (Dave Falkinhagen) wanted a Bansee so I helped him assemble one but we changed the looks to look like a P 40. We did the Jack Sheek mods at the same time. It looked pretty cool and after I trimmed it out, gave it to Dave. What a great flying model that looked really neat flying around with its camo paint and sharks mouth.
On the P-Force the only difference in the timing of the maneuvers is that you go just ever so slightly go deeper into the turn before you snap the corner (Skyray about the same). The corner is very tight and stable with clean exits. The higher aspect ratio wing and airfoil does not bleed off as much airspeed as flapped models so the model holds it turn ability through the maneuvers. To this day I still think it is one of the major advantages of a flap-less model.
Send me your addres so I can mail a instruction book of the P-Force to you.
Later,
Mikey
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until I saw Joe Gilbert doing unnatural things %^@ with his Ringmaster.
Ken
I’ve won classic and profile events with a ringmaster, and there are several accounts of 500+ point scores with ringmasters “before Joe made it cool”.
The RSM kit, while a bit pricey compared to the Sig kits, will build under 30oz easily and will fly well on any 25 size motor, though to me, anything other than a fox 35 seems unamerican ;D
It’s also worth noting that a Ringmaster is eligible for everything: OTS, classic, NOS30, profile/P40, and the pampa classes of course. One ring to rule them all...as they say.
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I’ve won classic and profile events with a ringmaster, and there are several accounts of 500+ point scores with ringmasters “before Joe made it cool”.
The RSM kit, while a bit pricey compared to the Sig kits, will build under 30oz easily and will fly well on any 25 size motor, though to me, anything other than a fox 35 seems unamerican ;D
It’s also worth noting that a Ringmaster is eligible for everything: OTS, classic, NOS30, profile/P40, and the pampa classes of course. One ring to rule them all...as they say.
I think there were 4 of them at our contest last weekend. y1 3 in Advanced and one in Expert and all flew in Classic & Profile. Sort of makes the thousands of hours we spend on these huge piped marvels a questionable endeavor (as I head to the shop to work on one.) LL~
Ken
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Now we know why Matt Kania named it the 'RINGMASTER'. H^^
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I think there were 4 of them at our contest last weekend. y1 3 in Advanced and one in Expert and all flew in Classic & Profile. Sort of makes the thousands of hours we spend on these huge piped marvels a questionable endeavor (as I head to the shop to work on one.)
It's a lot easier to get a big marvel to do what it's supposed to than to horse a Ringmaster around. That's why everyone marveled at how good they did for Ringmasters.
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I still say the Twister lol.
Was great meeting you yesterday Mr. Ken!
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Thought you might like to know that the Twister won out. Building it (with mods) now.
Ken
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Thought you might like to know that the Twister won out. Building it (with mods) now.
Ken
Aww yea!!!!!! Mine is flying again!!!
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Almost done. Man electric noses on profiles sure look crummy!
Ken
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Almost done. Man electric noses on profiles sure look crummy!
Ken
Profiles don't have to look bad.
Here's Bob Hunt's hardnose method: https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/nose-construction-for-rd-1e/
(https://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=38109.0;attach=179435;image)
(https://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=38109.0;attach=179440;image)
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Profiles don't have to look bad.
Here's Bob Hunt's hardnose method: https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/nose-construction-for-rd-1e/
(https://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=38109.0;attach=179435;image)
(https://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=38109.0;attach=179440;image)
Impressive
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Hi Ken,
See attached photo of the P_Force XL
Mikey
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Hi Ken,
See attached photo of the P_Force XL
Mikey
These all have one thing in common - front mount. All of my engines are rear mount.
Ken
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These all have one thing in common - front mount. All of my engines are rear mount.
Ken
Ken, most brushless motors can be mounted either way.
Matt
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Hi Ken,
Yes most electric motors can be mounted rear or front. In my opinion the rear mount motor takes up to much realistate in the battery pack area. You have to have the battery pack as close to the CG as possible to properly balance the model. Having built both the front and rear mounts it was easier to get the model to balance and still have room to mount the needed components.
One additional thought, with the battery pack mounted on the outboard side of the fuselage you can reduce the amount of tip weight needed. The XL only has the weight tip box and 1/4 ounce of this weight.
Later,
Mikey
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Hi Ken,
Yes most electric motors can be mounted rear or front. In my opinion the rear mount motor takes up to much realistate in the battery pack area. You have to have the battery pack as close to the CG as possible to properly balance the model. Having built both the front and rear mounts it was easier to get the model to balance and still have room to mount the needed components.
One additional thought, with the battery pack mounted on the outboard side of the fuselage you can reduce the amount of tip weight needed. The XL only has the weight tip box and 1/4 ounce of this weight.
Later,
Mikey
The front mount is obviously superior but I cannot find any way to mount a Cobra 2820/12 that way. If anybody has a way I am more than ready to try it.
Ken
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The front mount is obviously superior but I cannot find any way to mount a Cobra 2820/12 that way. If anybody has a way I am more than ready to try it.
Ken
It will bolt up on a forward firewall just the same as where you screwed on the aluminum cross mount. You will have to use a collet style prop driver. That is exactly how both Bob’s and Mikey’s motors are mounted in the pictures they posted.
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Ken, this picture should help clear up your questions about front mounting the Cobra 2820.
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It will bolt up on a forward firewall just the same as where you screwed on the aluminum cross mount. You will have to use a collet style prop driver. That is exactly how both Bob’s and Mikey’s motors are mounted in the pictures they posted.
Where do I go to get a Colet? It doesn't come with the engine. Too late for this one but going forward I will hang it by it's nose.
Ken
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The Cobra 2820 uses a 5mm shaft. Look for prop adaptors for a 5mm collet. They're available everywhere. There are simple versions and nice integrated spinner versions.
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I had two Fancherized Twisters (one with Rabe rudder) before I quit competing a few years ago. I now have a stock Banshee with a modified LA40 usuing a homemade tongue muffler. I like the way the Banshee flies over the Twisters. I found that the Banshee doesn't have a tendency to turn in on sharp downs like my Twisters did.
Phil
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Hi Ken,
Mount the motor with the green colored bell to the front and use the collet adapter that came with the motor (not the bolt on prop shaft). I used that same motor for the 4 cell 2600 mah pack version and worked very well with 11 X 5.5 APC prop and the KR timer.
Later,
Mikey
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Hi Ken,
Mount the motor with the green colored bell to the front and use the collet adapter that came with the motor (not the bolt on prop shaft). I used that same motor for the 4 cell 2600 mah pack version and worked very well with 11 X 5.5 APC prop and the KR timer.
Later,
Mikey
Just opened the other engine "still shrinkwrapped" and there is no collet and the instructions/parts list don't mention it. Looks like it is an add on. Tower has a 5mm one that looks OK. Any suggestions?
While I am at it, are spinners any different for electric? Can you just make a CCW fit the CW prop?
Ken
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Tower has some electric spinners but they are cut for standard props. You can cut it out to fit though.
Matt
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Tower has some electric spinners but they are cut for standard props. You can cut it out to fit though.
Matt
Thanks to you guys I figured out the front mount, ordered the collet. Luckily I had built a rather large engine box and the front mount is going to fit without any serious mods.
Ken
Follow Up: CG too far back with the front mount. Luckily the rear mount was still there.
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The forum seems slow right now, or maybe I'm just bored. I have a twister kit and a banshee kit. I plan to (not exactly soon) build them both box stock with a few minor additions. Both will have adjustable lead out's, tip weight box and an adjustable rudder. Other than that, box stock. Power will be the same for both, same fuel tank, engine, prop and then same size lines. This will be more of a personal shoot out than anything anyone can trust. I usually build light enough and straight enough, so the flight reports can be based on some experience I suppose.
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The forum seems slow right now, or maybe I'm just bored. I have a twister kit and a banshee kit. I plan to (not exactly soon) build them both box stock with a few minor additions. Both will have adjustable lead out's, tip weight box and an adjustable rudder. Other than that, box stock. Power will be the same for both, same fuel tank, engine, prop and then same size lines. This will be more of a personal shoot out than anything anyone can trust. I usually build light enough and straight enough, so the flight reports can be based on some experience I suppose.
I suspect you'll find that they're both pretty good.
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I suspect you'll find that they're both pretty good.
Having had both, in various states of airworthiness; I agree. But I've never been able to fly them back to back. But being the super stunter I am now (yeah i know how hilarious that is) it would be fun to compare. But also, then I'd have a classic legal, a super 70's legal, and 2 profiles all in one neat package.
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Having had both, in various states of airworthiness; I agree. But I've never been able to fly them back to back. But being the super stunter I am now (yeah i know how hilarious that is) it would be fun to compare. But also, then I'd have a classic legal, a super 70's legal, and 2 profiles all in one neat package.
If you REALLY want to try flying them back to back then build one for clockwise rotation and fly one in each hand!
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If you REALLY want to try flying them back to back then build one for clockwise rotation and fly one in each hand!
Lol, I can only fly two together in the same direction. Stunts are limited for now. Stay tuned for a video of me flying both ringmasters......
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Lol, I can only fly two together in the same direction. Stunts are limited for now. Stay tuned for a video of me flying both ringmasters......
Don't try this unless you have multiple personality syndrome and one of them is left handed.
neK
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Don't try this unless you have multiple personality syndrome and one of them is left handed.
neK
We already have
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We already have
Which one are you rebuilding? Personally, my left hand is barely useful to choke my engine. Sometimes I can use it to remove the battery and hold the handle while I put on the safety lanyard. I am impressed!
Ken
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Which one are you rebuilding? Personally, my left hand is barely useful to choke my engine. Sometimes I can use it to remove the battery and hold the handle while I put on the safety lanyard. I am impressed!
Ken
Oh the ringmaster rebuild was the one my wife crashed. It's done, back to normal. She felt really bad, but like I say; I built it once, I can build it again. Fly and crash all you want!
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When do you find time? By the way about people laughing at your pattern, wait until you see the judges laughing so hard they don't write our score down. This for me in Old Time at Polk City contest one year. ;D
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When do you find time? By the way about people laughing at your pattern, wait until you see the judges laughing so hard they don't write our score down. This for me in Old Time at Polk City contest one year. ;D
I don't. Haha. I go to work at 0600. So around 0400, I saunter out of bed into the kitchen / building area. Have some coffee, tinker with the planes while reading the funny pages. Then haul buns to work. Then come home and do whatever crazy scheme the kids have come up with.
Last contest in Tucson, it seems the joke was I fly too low. But also my triangles resemble more of a train wreck than a shape. All in all, it's great fun. My squares and square 8's seemed to improve and stay consistent all weekend. That was a bonus
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State of the Project:
40 oz all amped up and ready to spread it's wings. Got some cosmetics to do if I am going to use it in profile like the cowling, wheel pants, pannel lines etc.
Aside from the rock hard ribs (used) and indoor grade balsa stab (replaced), I do have one other thing that I am not too pleased with in the kit. The fuselage balsa is wierd. It is not soft and it is pretty stiff except that it twists. (Is that how the plane got it's name?) I have added a carbon tube to the bottom so it doesn't wiggle at all. I see several designs where the center is hollowed out and replaced with cross hatched balsa webbing. Does this help stop twisting? It is MomoKoted so I can add that easily if it would help but it is too late for fiber weave.
All that I need now is for our resident electric expert to get back from a cruse y1 and this rain to stop VD~)_& and I will log my first E-Flight! #^
Ken
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Hi Ken,
It looks really good, make sure you send a flight report.
Mikey
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looking Good . H^^
Bit late in the day for this , but . . .
Let me tell you about the pink Banshee.
1) 54” span equal panels
2) Half ribs to spar with vertical webbing between spars
3) Adjustable Tip weight box and movable leadouts
4) Flat wing tips
5) 8 1/4” nose
6) ¼” stab and elevator tapered to tips 261/2” span
7) Diamond shaped Fuselage with the top and bottom end 1/8” thick
8) Barn door flaps 2 ½” to 1 ¾”
9) Motor Fox 35 running on missile mist fuel no muffler
10) Custom landing gear 1/8” music wire eighth banner racing wheels
11) Custom Big jim Tank
12) Leading edge radius (NOT TO BLUNT JIM DID NOT LIKE TO BLUNT LEADING EDGE.)
NOTE : you had to hear that Fox run it sounded like a formula one motor with about 10 different gears. In the Horizontal square eight this motor changed speed for every leg.
Big Jim first flight on the Banshee.(BTW the other flyer was Big Jims close friend RAY MOORE.) Big Jim firers up the Fox and proceeds to fly a very impressive pattern that looks like Gene Schafer. I had never seen a profile fly like a full bogie stunt plane. The engine quits and proceeds to wind fly. Lazy eights, inside loops ,outside loops, inside square and one triangle. Milton and I had seen Bob and Gene wind fly but not like this.
Jose .
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Is the Banshee Ribs the same as the Twister ? ? .
Cant find a Banshee Drawing / Plan anywhere on the interwako .
Would some kind individual , Dane . Trace a around rib on a piece of graph paper , or lay adjacent to a ruler & give thickness / DEPTH .
Maybe a pic. of a few other things or suchlike .
Would like something that fits in the Trunk ( BOOT , Here . ) without getting chewed up . as the Citys an overnighter , If I go flying there . :P
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Matt, here's a PDF of the Banshee plans for your enjoyment. Also, a comparison of the Banshee and Twister airfoils.
If I were building a Banshee (and I'm not) and I planned on using a heavier, modern, muffled engine (LA46) with an APC style prop vs a unmuffled Fox 35 with a wood prop, I would surely opt for something similar to the recent Griffin version with the wing moved significantly forward. Follow the lemonade recipe and build a larger tail assembly (~25% of the wing area) while you're at it. https://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/sig-banshee-12011/
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1/64 lite ply on fuse may reduce the Twist. But will add an ounce or so.
My Twister was 38oz when first completed. After repair its now 40oz.
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Much appeciated Brent ,
Once we get the whiff of something , The R C M P is relentless in persuit . H^^
The Twister section is V much like the Oriental , IF you round the LE 7 Reduce the Chord 1 in , aft . As per my Whirlwind .
Seeing the Banshee one kinda puts me off that .
So there you are ,
Ken Did Good , The Twister looks Much Better .
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1/64 lite ply on fuse may reduce the Twist. But will add an ounce or so.
My Twister was 38oz when first completed. After repair its now 40oz.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
Good idea but it is too late. Only thing I could do would be to cut out a section, put in geodetic bracing and re-monokote the hole. Probably not worth it for a practice plane that probably will never see competition. Should have carboned it.
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Good idea but it is too late. Only thing I could do would be to cut out a section, put in geodetic bracing and re-monokote the hole. Probably not worth it for a practice plane that probably will never see competition. Should have carboned it.
You may be ok as is.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
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Whadaya Mean . It IS Called a TWISTER . S?P LL~ LL~ LL~
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Whadaya Mean . It IS Called a TWISTER . S?P LL~ LL~ LL~
And here I thought that is what you did with a wing warp! You twist her and hit her with a heat gun.
1st successful e-flight today! Different.
Ken
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And here I thought that is what you did with a wing warp! You twist her and hit her with a heat gun.
1st successful e-flight today! Different.
Ken
Give it time. I’ve grown to really like my electric Twister. It flies different than a glow plane but all the pros of electric outweighs the cons for me at least.
Matt
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Give it time. I’ve grown to really like my electric Twister. It flies different than a glow plane but all the pros of electric outweighs the cons for me at least.
Matt
You are spot on. 1st e-pattern today and it is a very different feel. Next adventure is e-trimming. Anything different? Mine is "fancherized" and it balances 1/2" forward of the plans C/G. It doesn't hunt and tracks perfectly when the engine shuts off yet it turns like it is tail heavy. My question is "is that a Twister thing or an electric thing? Do I slow down the controls or add nose weight?
This is definitely my winter fun plane till the contest season starts next year.
Ken
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You are spot on. 1st e-pattern today and it is a very different feel. Next adventure is e-trimming. Anything different? Mine is "fancherized" and it balances 1/2" forward of the plans C/G. It doesn't hunt and tracks perfectly when the engine shuts off yet it turns like it is tail heavy. My question is "is that a Twister thing or an electric thing? Do I slow down the controls or add nose weight?
This is definitely my winter fun plane till the contest season starts next year.
Ken
I think it’s the plane. Mine is also a Fancherized version. I have the most trouble with the hourglass. I feel like it wants to “over turn” in several maneuvers. That could also easily be the guy on the handle! I’m using the KR timer and an old Castle Creations esc. The governor works well but I don’t get any noticeable gain in maneuvers. I want to try one of the timers with accelerometers to power through maneuvers but don’t want to spend the money right now.
Matt
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Gentlemen, try changing the handle spacing or get one of Larry Renger's Expo-handles. Made a big difference on my Imperial Ringmaster. D>K
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I think it’s the plane.
Matt
I don't have enough patterns to form an opinion as to why but, yes, it does want to overturn. In my case it is probably over controlling. I used the same lines that I used on my PA ship and I probably need to get another handle and set the spacing closer. It does seem a bit sensitive as to where you place maneuvers but that is a good thing for a practice ship.
Ken
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the same lines that I used on my PA ship and I probably need to get another handle and set the spacing closer.
One plane, one handle, one set of lines. If handles are too expensive, make 'em. A 12" x 6" piece of carbon fiber plate from Rockwest Composites won't set you back all that much; that and half a dozen coping saw blades will get you half a dozen handle blanks. Or if you have more money than time, go ahead and buy.
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I don't have enough patterns to form an opinion as to why but, yes, it does want to overturn. It does seem a bit sensitive as to where you place maneuvers but that is a good thing for a practice ship.
Ken
I have enough patterns now to form an opinion and I love the plane but it has some characteristics I would like to know from other "twisterers" how they handle it. I have always flown e 2/3 flap elevator ratio to give better corners. My twister seems to overturn everything and also seems to tighten loops in both direction on it's own. It is a bit on the nose heavy side. C/G is about 1/4" forward from plans. It is not like it is "winding up" either. Speed doesn't increase (which is so cool). Is anybody experiencing similar behavior and if so what are you doing about it. Maybe the 2/3 is a bad choice for this design. I am however sold on electric. That smooth power is going to take some getting used to. Is any of what I mentioned above due to electric power? Is this perhaps normal and I just adapt to it?
Ken