stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Bootlegger on November 02, 2017, 06:44:15 AM
-
Guy's what do I need to drill into tool steel, and where can I get these items? Thanks a lot
-
If it has already been heat treated you may be able to drill it with a solid carbide drill, or you may not be able to drill it. A file will give an indication of how hard it is. If it has not yet been heat treated you can drill it with a High Speed steel drill. Drill at a slow rotational speed and a fairly high force feed. DO NOT allow the drill to just rub against the surface, you may work harden it to the point that you would have to grind through the hard skin to complete the drilling. Do not use a high drill rotational speed, if the steel is air hardening improper drilling can harden the surface to the point you may not be able to do anything with it.
Pat
-
Many grades of tool steel. You didnt specify. Might be possible to reheat it and anneal it to soften, then drill, then reheat, and quench. Depending on grade steel, you could quench in oil. After quench you will need to reheat into temper range to avoid brittle condition. There are some online resources the for knife making guys , and thet might help you. If strength is not critical, just anneal to soften, and no follow-on heat treating need.
-
Another option, find a shop that does EDM, and get the job done. Might cost you more$
-
Gill we need a lot more info
"Tool Steel" is too broad
Size, alloy, hardness... hole size and depth is important too... noted above is the go slow (RPM and depth)
much of the reason mills and drill-presses can be RPM regulated is for each hardness or alloy there is a proper Foot per minuet/second cutting speed that is dependent on the drill bit cutting edge diameter and the materiel being cut
BUT I can say with pure certainty the 208 piece drill bit collection from Harbor Freight for $59 is worthless for much harder than wood or soft aluminum.... don't ask
There are interesting You tube videos on high speed bits that do NOT cut but form a hole from friction/heat... in a LOT of materials
But the real bottom line is good high quality bits ....and none of the Wally world, Ace, Lowe's, or HF offerings are much good for hard steel drilling
-
speedy metals
http://www.speedymetals.com/ (http://www.speedymetals.com/)
-
Most towns have industrial supply houses. Our town has 2. Both of which has tool steal in many shapes and hardness. When you go to the supply house, tell them what you want to do. And get the drill bits they recommend along with some MollyD. It's a lubricant for drilling. Slow speed and lots of feed pressure are your friends. Be very careful in these stores, they have lots of addictive candy!
-
Hi Tim:
Have you ever used Moly D as an aid for cutting metal? If so, what were the results? Did you mix the Moly with a cutting fluid to help remove heat?
Be well,
Frank McCune
-
Hi Tim:
Have you ever used Moly D as an aid for cutting metal? If so, what were the results? Did you mix the Moly with a cutting fluid to help remove heat?
Be well,
Frank McCune
You got me nervous here. Yes it helps with heat but how much heat are you talking about? If you're smoking a drill bit then something is wrong. If you're talking about a machining, sawing or grinding operation then you would be better off using water soluble oil and antifreeze.
-
Depending on the size of hole and part the ground masonry bits are carbide and will drill through hardened steel under flood of water. Since this is control line modeling I think the available drills will be between way to big and ridiculously too big.
Depending on the size of part and hole, a diamond burr may work well. These are available in quite a few sizes going quite small. The correct cutting fluid is required, oil typically, in an adequate flood to remove swarf from the cutting area.
If the part is not hardened, or "fully drawn" in temper, then a honest high speed steel tool bit will likely drill it.
If the part cannot be annealed, but can be heated then heating to dullest red in dim light will draw most steels to a suitably soft state, with the temper fully drawn. (about 1000F)
Phil
-
This might help
https://m.grainger.com/content/supplylink-greenfield-metalworking-drill-bit
Tim
-
Here. http://homebuiltedm.tripod.com/ (http://homebuiltedm.tripod.com/). In case you need another hobby.
-
Hi Tim:
Have you ever used Moly D as an aid for cutting metal? If so, what were the results? Did you mix the Moly with a cutting fluid to help remove heat?
Be well,
Frank McCune
The "Moly D" being referred to is an excellent tapping lube product, so by definition, it's a cutting compound. I have some around here, someplace. Green can, I think. Maybe yellow? The best thing about it is that it's compatible with any metal and is excellent on gummy aluminum alloys for roll-tapping. But it is expensive and smells very bad, so I try to find other options. Enco #1 tapping fluid works well, is a lot cheaper and not stinky. If you're tapping or drilling all day long, it's nicer. H^^ Steve
-
Guy's first off I have to say thanks to every body for the respons y1es, I found out that it wasn't tool steel at all. a friend cut it with a file and told me what to look for, and it ain't what I thought it was, but again THANKS for the help...
-
Is Tap Magic still available? I still have a can for AL and one for steel, it's very good for almost all cutting/drilling needs including hardened steels.
-
FWIW, if it had been hardened steel then a regular masonry bit can be used to drill holes, no need for expensive solid carbide drills.
You just need to sharpen the end a bit better than "stock". (You will need a green grinder stone to sharpen the carbide)
Pat MacKenzie