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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Dennis Toth on October 30, 2016, 10:26:31 AM
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Guys,
Working on building the tank for my new Barnstormer, the tank area is tight and I need to go around 3/16" deeper than standard to pack in a little more fuel (hope to get to 4oz). I am looking for a source for 0.005" tin sheet stock. I know K&S has the 0.008" but the 0.005" would be my preference. Anyone know a source?
Best, DennisT
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Hi, Dennis.
I have been using brass shimstock from McMaster-Carr for many years without problems.
They also sell tin shimstock but it's very expensive.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#shim-stock/=14to8p3
Bob Z.
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Dennis,
Brodak makes custom tanks. Brodak also sells the stock.
Charles
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Use the .008", .005" will cause you grief. H^^ Steve
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Bob,
The McMasters stuff is interesting some of the Stainless is in 6"x12" around $11 it is 316SS soft. Will this material solder? They don't have tin plated steel just polished steel, I think this would work about the same price but it is full hardened I'm concerned that it would crack, that's why I looked at the Stainless.
Best, DennisT
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You need stainless solder and stainless tubing.
MM
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Guys,
Working on building the tank for my new Barnstormer, the tank area is tight and I need to go around 3/16" deeper than standard to pack in a little more fuel (hope to get to 4oz). I am looking for a source for 0.005" tin sheet stock. I know K&S has the 0.008" but the 0.005" would be my preference. Anyone know a source?
Best, DennisT
You mean tin-plated steel. The "tin shim stock" is expensive because is it nearly pure tin and not suitable for a fuel tank.
My advice- just use the regular K&S easy-solder stock and move on with your life.
Brett
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What practical difference does that .003 difference between .005 and .008 make?
Phil
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What practical difference does that .003 difference between .005 and .008 make?
Phil
A lot less cracking, failed solder joints at tubes, and leaks. y1 Steve
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You need stainless solder and stainless tubing.
MM
Why?
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Why?
You can't solder stainless steel with normal soldering processes! It takes high silver content solder, and acid flux to do it!
Even if you get the solder to flow onto the stainless it will not hold! I don't think you would need stainless tubing, copper should work fine.
The main question is why would you want to use stainless steel? It's more expensive and troublesome to work with. Use the .008 tinned stock like Steve suggested and get on with it! The small difference in weight is not worth the effort!
Randy Cuberly
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copper or brass tubes solder just fine in stainless tanks using the silver solder liquid flux
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A previous thread on the subject said that Sta-Brite low temp silver solder works on stainless. Tower Hobby has that, as does most any LHS or Ace Hardware. I like it a lot, but thoroughly neutralizing the flux is absolutely mandatory. D>K Steve
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I would never use anything thinner than .008 thou stock 5 is a major pain, and I personally use .010 tin stock, hold tubes much better does not crank near as easy as .005 or .008 and it not heavy, .005 is just not workable in my book, too many failures
Randy
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Over here in England, it's become trendy to sell ground coffee in cans rather than the usual foil packs. The cans I buy are 5" tall with a circumference of about 10", and they're perfectly decent .008" tinplate - smooth, not corrugated like a can of beans. The coffee costs, and tastes, about the same as the foil packs, and the only bother is getting the paint off the outside with paint stripper (which I hate using, but I can't resist getting something for nothing!).
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Over here in England, it's become trendy to sell ground coffee in cans rather than the usual foil packs. The cans I buy are 5" tall with a circumference of about 10", and they're perfectly decent .008" tinplate - smooth, not corrugated like a can of beans. The coffee costs, and tastes, about the same as the foil packs, and the only bother is getting the paint off the outside with paint stripper (which I hate using, but I can't resist getting something for nothing!).
Dope thinner, acetone, or lacquer thinner cans are also popular, and they pretty much come out clean. All those are usable (and thicker than the K&S sheet), but I prefer using brand new clean stock. Plus, you can cut the K&S stock with a good pair of scissors which yields a much cleaner cut.
Brett
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Why?
Because, copper/brass tubes in a nice stainless steel tank is just krass.
MM
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Here's what Brodak offers.
.01" thick, as they advertise. They made a custom tank for my Mig-3 that came out perfect.
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I have .008" 10 brite plated tin stock, 12"x12". if anyone wants the whole batch. Price ? #^
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You can't solder stainless steel with normal soldering processes! It takes high silver content solder, and acid flux to do it!
Even if you get the solder to flow onto the stainless it will not hold! I don't think you would need stainless tubing, copper should work fine.
The main question is why would you want to use stainless steel? It's more expensive and troublesome to work with. Use the .008 tinned stock like Steve suggested and get on with it! The small difference in weight is not worth the effort!
Randy Cuberly
I don't recall ever having an issue soldering stainless steel pans and such in an industrial setting using Ruby Fluid soldering flux and high tin content solder because that's all I had to use. I used to solder up leaks in a friend"s large, stainless steel honey settling tanks using 100%^ tin solder, and these tanks help hundreds of pounds of honey. They leaked direct from the vendor, and they supplied the solder for repair. Silver solder works also. If you want to be real fancy, TIG weld the joints. It's pssible.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee