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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Target on September 29, 2018, 03:07:04 PM
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I'm looking for a test stand for engines.
Here are the two that I am considering:
This one from across the pond that I would possibly want to put flat head machine screws into-
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-RC-Aircraft-engine-test-stand-for-Saito-OS-Enya-Irvine-MDS-PAW-SC/132773555351?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144
Or, the BOTTOM one from JTec, TS3, that already has the flat head screws-
http://jtecrc.com/engineteststands.htm
Any opinions/cautions/commentary?
R,
Chris
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I built this one years ago as I run a lot of old ignition engines. I bought the adjustable engine mount from the local hobby shop. Can not remember who made it, but it has stood up very well and works wonderful. There are wing nuts underneath on the carriage bolts with large washers like on the top. There are two steel pins in the lower block to capture then engine mount holes.
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My home made stand which steals big time from the old E-Z Just unit. I included some alum. inlay to beef up my hold downs a bit. Top picture is the stock E-Z Just unit. And that's an ST-51 in my stand. I use big C-clamps to attach the stand to my Black-n-Decker Workmate ready for use.
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Why waste the money :o!! Bolt it to a plane and anchor it in place ;D! Then when it's ready put'er in da' air!! LL~ LL~
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Why waste the money :o!! Bolt it to a plane and anchor it in place ;D! Then when it's ready put'er in da' air!! LL~ LL~
Obviously you've never seen a Black-n-Decker Workmate on 60ft lines doing Fig-8's! ;D
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I appreciate the comments, and especially the pictures, but right now I have very little time, as I work lots and lots. So I would rather buy something that will work and use that.
If I was retired, it would be a different story, but I am not.
That is also why I would rather vet a used engine on a test stand than bolt it into a plane and struggle.
R,
Target
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I'm not sure why you feel you need the flat-head screws -- I would think the ones with bolts would be much more positive. I have an old Tatone with bolts, and I've never had reason to wish for anything else.
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Last year I bought one of these test items as shown. I love mine as they come! I did find hat tank height needs to be fiddled with. Buy one, you will like it!
Joe Just
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Here is mine I got off the bay. I think it is the later Tatone units. It is bolted to a slab of wood with a block of wood to hold the tank. C clamp to a saw horse. D>K
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I'm not sure why you feel you need the flat-head screws -- I would think the ones with bolts would be much more positive. I have an old Tatone with bolts, and I've never had reason to wish for anything else.
I'm referring to the clamp bar fasteners in the first link. Did you look at the first link?
I'm concerned with clearance for mufflers and needle valves with the smaller engines, like 1/2A. The clamp bars themselves are 9mm thick on that one already. I might use low profile socket head screws instead. The only real difference (that matters, IMO) between using SHCS and FLMS is the use of a lock washer, which would be beneficial. I could use the lock washers under the low profile SHCS's so maybe that is the route to go. Other than 3mm hex key for the FLMS and 4mm hex for the stock screw on the unit from England, I don't see it as a big deal
It is interesting that JTec USES FLMS for their FACTORY TS3 engine test stand. Did you look at that link? I wonder why their latest creation uses that instead of a nut. I'm assuming that it might be aimed at being more user-friendly for smaller engines. But I do not know for sure, just assumed.
R,
Target
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Last year I bought one of these test items as shown. I love mine as they come! I did find hat tank height needs to be fiddled with. Buy one, you will like it!
Joe Just
Which one do you have, Joe?
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I have an extra EZ Just. Let me know if interested
Norm
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Normie-
Will it work on Norvel's and beam mount Cox?
R,
Target
PS. I have your 2.6mm socket head screw set for the MAX-S.
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I use this one and a HAPPY Camper with.
Did a GREAT JOB on my OS LA´s .46 .
I don't trust Wood clamp type test stands anymore.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-RC-Aircraft-engine-test-stand-for-Saito-OS-Enya-Irvine-MDS-PAW-SC/132773555351?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144
H^^
Peter
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I like the wood ones for old Engines like Ohlsson's as the mounts are not always flat, and the wood gives enough to not distort the case. They have a steel pin that goes into the hole of the engine mount to secure it. I have many many hours of running engines of all kinds on the stand above with never a problem. The tank height can be adjusted up or down on the two dowels. It has a throttle lever for R/C engines. Even Fox 35 mounts are not flat and can easily distort the case.
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Mine is exactly like the one the Peter shows. Most of my engine work is on OS FP .40's, a popular engine for NW Sport .40 Profile Carrier. Other than that, I have used it for a couple of .35 McCoy's. I have not used this mount for anything smaller than a .19 McCoy.
Joe
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I use the one in picture below. Or something similar. It's really handy, I can turn the running engine as I wish, and it has a similar cooling and fuel system than in real situation.
And when testing & running in is done (in about 10 minutes), I just connect the lines and go flying. L
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Will check and get back to you.
N
Normie-
Will it work on Norvel's and beam mount Cox?
R,
Target
PS. I have your 2.6mm socket head screw set for the MAX-S.
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I appreciate the comments, and especially the pictures, but right now I have very little time, as I work lots and lots. So I would rather buy something that will work and use that.
If I was retired, it would be a different story, but I am not.
That is also why I would rather vet a used engine on a test stand than bolt it into a plane and struggle.
R,
Target
Not to create any confusion, obviously you are free to do whatever you choose, but I don't understand your position! If you have an engine and bolt it to a suitable sized plane and use a stooge to hold the plane ....!! This allows you to break-in, test run, adjust and even experiment as needed with any engine. I haven't bought nor even found the need to use or invest in a "test stand" since about 1970 and my long lost Tatone unit.
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EZ Just should be OK. Even Norvel w/ muffler. Can’t see how the metal clamp bar (your first link) would work with the 1/2a’s.
N
Will check and get back to you.
N
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Now that I think about it, my Dad helped with a piece of board wide enough to cut out a u shape to clear the engine. Fuel tank rubber banded behind the engine after it was bolted to the wood. Being a part time carpenter we had lots of wood for engine mounting. Again a big C clamp to a saw horse. D>K
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EZ Just should be OK. Even Norvel w/ muffler. Can’t see how the metal clamp bar (your first link) would work with the 1/2a’s.
N
Thanks Norm-
Let me know what you want for it, should you want to release it.
I was definitely concerned about the 1/2A-A sized engines.
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Not to create any confusion, obviously you are free to do whatever you choose, but I don't understand your position! If you have an engine and bolt it to a suitable sized plane and use a stooge to hold the plane ....!! This allows you to break-in, test run, adjust and even experiment as needed with any engine. I haven't bought nor even found the need to use or invest in a "test stand" since about 1970 and my long lost Tatone unit.
Hi, Jim-
If I never bought used engines, I might entertain what you are suggesting, but I DO buy used engines and would rather not beat up an airframe with tons of starting attempts. I would rather have my engine ducks in a row first, then mount the engine knowing it ran well in the test environment. Then if it doesn't run properly when mounted, it is 99% likely to be the installation.
Kind Regards,
Target
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I used an Ez-just for years until a PAW 40 destroyed it. Fortunately I was behind the stand when it let loose. There was a new hole in the shrub on the other side of the yard.
Now I use a Tatone unit with a custom board mount (hard maple, epoxy coated). A couple of tall dowels behind the mount let me rubber band mount an appropriate tank at whatever height is needed.
Monster clamps let me tie it down to the cement park benches at Whittier Narrows. The only time this has been “iffy” was with a Cox Medallion .15 with the pinned piston. It vibrated so much I couldn’t tighten the clamps enough to hold it. It turns out that piston and rod weighs about 1/4 ounce more than the ball and socket one! Sheesh! Rumor has it that the Tee Dee version could set a free flight model on fire as the fuselage vibrates against the wing.
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A piece of wood between the cement and C clamp will cure the vibrating loose. I have a PAW 35 that sent vibrations through the mount stand and the ground. Ran it just the one time. Hate to think what it would do to an airplane. D>K
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How bad a shaker is Cox .09 Medallion?
Anyone know?
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I use a commercially available test mounts, but I mount them to a unit that I don't need to clamp down or secure, simply put it on the ground and run the motors. Now if you are really crazy mount two motors to the same unit and then run two Fox 35's
Fred
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otsOoePrjvw
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I went ahead and bought the furst one you posted from the UK. :)
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
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Cool james.
I'm told that one is a no go on 1/2A's.
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Cool james.
I'm told that one is a no go on 1/2A's.
Teedees might work. Dont know yet
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
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Yea I can see 1/2a's being an issue on this stand. But for all else I think it may be fine.
The quality is nice!!! All aluminum.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181017/723a753ffbcc39cd7442439d332c84e5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181017/a27d5d78ab468e2194f360e2920ea870.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181017/cc50dabc37251bb75dbe98f24f17cad7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181017/1fe7a6c6280c4ee3f52e0bedce9864e3.jpg)
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Thanks for posting the pics, J!
You can see why i might have wanted to use counter sunk machine screws now, depending on the size of the muffler.
No go for the little guys for sure.
Thanks again.
R,
Target
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Mecoa still sells the tatone stands, the small one up to 80 size engines is only 25 bucks
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Yea I can see 1/2a's being an issue on this stand. But for all else I think it may be fine.
The quality is nice!!! All aluminum.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181017/723a753ffbcc39cd7442439d332c84e5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181017/a27d5d78ab468e2194f360e2920ea870.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181017/cc50dabc37251bb75dbe98f24f17cad7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181017/1fe7a6c6280c4ee3f52e0bedce9864e3.jpg)
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Would not be hard to mimic this alum. unit in some hard rock maple stock, me thinks, which one could build at home perhaps. After all, maple is the standard engine mount material in our models right?