teosawki build nearing completion

[pipemakermike]

Well it is all together.  I have to finish fuel proofing it, make the tank and cover the wing then it will be ready to fly.
I have been trying not to get too houseproud about the build as I am still finding out more about the best way to make it.
If all goes well with the flying I plan to cut some more leading edge cores now I know how to cut the leading edge slot and, who knows, I might have a few more of these simple models.

[john e. holliday]

Looking good.  You are using SLC from Corehouse for the covering I hope. 

[pipemakermike]

Hi John

I haven't discovered yet how to obtain SLC film in the UK.  Currently I plan to use the same mylar film that the combat guys use.  I have used it before but currently I am struggling to find a suitable adhesive.  When I last used it successfully I used Evostick thinned with Evostick solvent but neither of those are available now in the form that I used them before as the PC brigade has forced a reformulation.  I am open to any suggestions for the adhesive

[ray copeland]

Looking good Mike! Looking forward to the flight reports.

[John Stiles]

Whomever named that plane is a real funny guy, but why would anybody do that? ROFLMBO [the_end_of_society_as_we_knew_it??]

[Will Davis]

Clayton Smith. .......The End Of Stunt As We Know It..  Yes ..he was a very funny guy  ..and a great builder

[Howard Rush]

I have used it before but currently I am struggling to find a suitable adhesive. 

Ask Mervyn Jones.

[Peter Grabenstein]

Hi John

I haven't discovered yet how to obtain SLC film in the UK.  Currently I plan to use the same mylar film that the combat guys use.  I have used it before but currently I am struggling to find a suitable adhesive.  When I last used it successfully I used Evostick thinned with Evostick solvent but neither of those are available now in the form that I used them before as the PC brigade has forced a reformulation.  I am open to any suggestions for the adhesive

Hi Mike

"Pattex clear" contact glue was often recommended for mylar in other Combat Forums.
You should find such in Hardware stores like "Bauhaus" or "Hornbach" ,not sure if there is any in the UK ?.
Just apply a thin film at the LE frontend hardwoodspar ,top of all rips ,wingtips and the backface of trailing edge.
After letting dry for a couple minutes , iron on the mylar.
This has been working for others so it should work for you.
If you can not find "Pattex clear" send me pm.
Mejzlik CZ is also a good source for it.

Peter

 

[pipemakermike]

Mine has gussets but they are smaller than the genuine article.  Bigger next time.
I have learnt a lot with this build about this rather querky design.  I have approached in a "when in doubt do something" frame of mind and I am keeping my 3D model updated with anything I discover for the next one.

[John Stiles]

Thanks for the enlargement, looks like a cool model. Wouldn't mind finding one of those in a kit.

[Willie Johnson]

Looks good Mike.  I've been wanting to build one for a while.  I may give it a shot.  Here's a link that shows some good ideas on how to jig up the combat style wings.  http://combatteam.wz.cz/letadlo/index.html

[Peter Grabenstein]

Mine has gussets but they are smaller than the genuine article.  Bigger next time.
I have learnt a lot with this build about this rather querky design.  I have approached in a "when in doubt do something" frame of mind and I am keeping my 3D model updated with anything I discover for the next one.

Two bigger gussets at each rip plus one or two rips each side more would make this wing much stiffer and
more resistent against warps.
Build allmost the same 10 years ago.
Was a GREAT Flyer with OS FP 25 running 4-2-4 with Graupnerīs grey prop 10x4.

[pipemakermike]

Thanks for the enlargement, looks like a cool model. Wouldn't mind finding one of those in a kit.

Hi John
Well, once I have finished this one and got it flying and assuming that it is the good flying machine that its reputation indicates, I am going to build at least 1 more and this time I will have a jig to cut the cores and DXF files for laser cutting the parts so it is not out of the question that I will do more than a couple for me.

Hi Mike
"Pattex clear" contact glue was often recommended for mylar in other Combat Forums.
Peter

Hi Peter
I have had a look around for Pattex and it is available from several sources but they all get very expensive when factoring in the transport costs. I am currently trying to source a clear film with a heat activated glue already on it.  I think that I have found a local source (less than a mile away) I will know in a couple of hours.
Also, The wing feels very stiff before covering so I am going to leave it as it is generally but possibly add a couple of gussets to the tiprib/leading edge interface.

[Peter Grabenstein]

Hi John
Well, once I have finished this one and got it flying and assuming that it is the good flying machine that its reputation indicates, I am going to build at least 1 more and this time I will have a jig to cut the cores and DXF files for laser cutting the parts so it is not out of the question that I will do more than a couple for me.

Hi Peter
I have had a look around for Pattex and it is available from several sources but they all get very expensive when factoring in the transport costs. I am currently trying to source a clear film with a heat activated glue already on it.  I think that I have found a local source (less than a mile away) I will know in a couple of hours.
Also, The wing feels very stiff before covering so I am going to leave it as it is generally but possibly add a couple of gussets to the tiprib/leading edge interface.

Hi Mike

My favorite is "Oracover light" transparent colours, sure Solarfilm transparent will work great aswell.
But be carefull with (melting) styrofoam and excessive heat.
A heatgun  could be better to do the trick.

[John Stiles]

Hi John
Well, once I have finished this one and got it flying and assuming that it is the good flying machine that its reputation indicates, I am going to build at least 1 more and this time I will have a jig to cut the cores and DXF files for laser cutting the parts so it is not out of the question that I will do more than a couple for me.

Thanks for that....I'll be watching.