take off with the handle upside down

[bob whitney]

 as i hear more and more of flyers getting their lines hooked up backwards and taking off ,thought i would put my 2 cents worth in

 i took my 130 mph 21 proto off with the controls reversed and lived to tell about it

1st, plan ahead, think about what to do if it happens to you, i knew that if i tried to really fly it ,it would be over

i knew if i gave it down ,it would go up so i concentrated on that, as it would drift down i would feed in a little down and it would go back up . ,finally i bit the bullet and gave it a bunch of down and as it was doing a partial wingover i swapped the handle around and finished out the flight and landed to fly again.

thinking about how it happend ,i had checked for level but not really for up and down.

so remember never give it up just enough down to keep it in the air until you are ready for the wing over and handle swap  .hope it works for, u Rad Racer.

[john ohnimus]

I like it Bob,

 I always have a contingency plan in place for most things. However a few things that could prevent having the handle upside down BEFORE takeoff.

1) Attach the safety thong to the down side of the handle

2) Always leave one connector on the handle and one on the leadouts (dedicated set of lines/handle) for each plane.

3) Always check your controls before launch (Full scale pilots do)

However most folks will do the reversed handle at least once in their career. I hope I never do!!!

[Gordon Van Tighem]

.....or a small stripe of red tape or heat shrink on the up line.
Even scarier, a month ago I started my engine, went to the handle, checked elevator movement and signalled for release.
The plane rose off the ground and levelled out at about six inches before descending and quitting in the grass, no control evident. The control horn, a commercial one, had a bad solder joint and let go. It was (and fortunately still is) a 45 powered profile stunter.

[bob whitney]

actually the handle was correct, the lines were  hooked up backwards

[Steve Helmick]

I leave one clip on the plane and both clips on the handle. No color code BS. Three of the clips are standard Sullivan (or Brodak or whatever, all identical). One clip is a homemade item made on the Derek Moran/Jim Lee clip bending jig. I typically have my dedicated handle and primary set of lines in a 1 gallon ziplock freezer bag. In a small plastic bag is another set of lines, also in the gallon bag. If I was real serious, I'd have the clips sorted out for those, but I haven't yet. Someday, maybe. 

My theory is that if you rely on color codes, you'll eventually grab the wrong set of lines and you've set yourself up to lose (not loose) a plane. I also see no sense in dragging your uber light CF/balsa handle across the asphalt when there is a nice heavy stunter sitting there with two sturdy leadouts to act as an anchor. Hook the lines up, roll them out, hook on the handle. I pull on the lines and seek the 'up' line and hook on the 'up' clip that's already on the handle. Then, the bottom clip. DO NOT look at the flaps, only the elevators. I hold 'up' and look at the handle, then look at the elevator, then the handle, then the elevator! Well, early AM, anyway. As an added bonus, at a contest, I can remove my handle, roll the lines up to the leadouts, and leave them attached to the plane between rounds, likely saving them from damage in the pits. When you're done, remove the handle, leaving the clips on it, wind up the lines and remove them from the plane, leaving one clip on the plane. Put lines and handle in gallon ziplock bag, and put it into the tool kit. Done deal.

Paul has one of his lines (and one of his leadouts) about 5" longer than the other. This ensures that the clips won't snag together and also is a dead giveaway that you've obviously hooked the lines up wrong. He leaves the handle attached to the lines. That's the only part of the system I don't agree with. I think it's too bulky to pack and also harder on the lines, but otherwise, I think it's a great plot. There's really no reason to have a problem with this. Steve

[Jim Hoffman]

I use a variation of Mr. Helmick’s approach – The idea is to eliminate as many possible failure modes as possible.
 
•   Handle and lines are a matched set dedicated to that model and are not disconnected unless the lines are being replaced

•   Disconnect lines at airplane end only – leave one clip on lines, the other on the airplane. 

•   Clearly label the handle with the name of the plane so I do not use the wrong handle/line set on the wrong airplane.  (Yes that happened to me once)

Jim Hoffman

[bob whitney]

Steve i hadnt stopped to think about it but that is what i now do that i am flying stunt and the clip is always left on the up line weather it be the front or back lead out. so far no problems

[Gerald Arana]

I color code mine, red for down and black for up. This can be done with either paint or colored wire from the "fly" fishing supply store. 

Cheers, Jerry

[Motorman]

Nothing is better than up elevator check right before launch.


MM

[john e. holliday]

So true on that statement, but in the heat of battle we sometimes forget.  That is why I like the dedicated lines for a plane and leave the up clip on the plane.   Then check at handle end before hooking up lines.  I basically have two handles for my planes, the hard point Fancher  and the cable handle like the E-Z Just made by the late great Big  Iron.