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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: paul winter on October 13, 2012, 01:09:44 PM
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hi all
ive always made my take aparts with a one piece wing ,,,,now what i want to do is make a plug in take apart
like the russian set up
has anyone got any drawings that i can copy
paul
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Paul I don't know of drawings for it however Tom Morris sells hardware for this and likely has instructions. I've built three with plug ins and simply used 3/8 sq motor mount stock through the fuse at the wing spars which were used as bolt anchors and bellcrank mounts. Two 3/8 aluminum tubes, one forward one aft for alignment and sparing and a tie-together at the trailing edge, got to through the pipe tunnel. Works well but watch weight. I'd rather keep the wing as one if I could so tell me how much hastle to air transport your one piece wing airplane across the pond? Airline rules issues? Extra charges? I know of a 60" rule-HxWxD. Max but what is your experience?
Dave
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Check out the Discovery Aeromodels web site, if you haven't already. The Yatsenko brothers have obviously invested considerable thought, time, resources and effort into take-apart stunt hardware (and in pretty much all other areas of the hobby as well). Regards, EWP
http://discovery-aeromodels.com/en/demountable-systems.html
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hi all
ive always made my take aparts with a one piece wing ,,,,now what i want to do is make a plug in take apart
like the russian set up
has anyone got any drawings that i can copy
paul
Hi Paul,
Dallas Hanna from Australia (I think he's still on this forum) made some very nice take apart pieces for me for a Trivial Pursuit.
They are aluminum (high tensile) and beautifully machined. center pieces that install in the fuselage and bolted on spar connectors and a like unit at the rear trailing edge. Absolutely magnificent and reasonably priced. They are also very light. Very much like the Russian units in the Yatsenko planes I've seen.
Randy Cuberly
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Hi Paul, You can also have a go at making your own. I'm no machinist and I've made plenty of successful take-apart models with very basic tools. Here are some computer generated drawings of my system....they look better than actual stuff so it's a lot clearer. If you want some more details I can e-mail you some more pics.
Keith R
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HI keith
that would be nice
paul@psautos.freeserve.co.uk
ta
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Hi all. It's my first post so please go easy ;)
I have just started the build of a Trivial Pursuit SE and I want to make the wings removable using a setup similar to Keiths excellent drawings. What would be the best way of fixing the wing attachment parts to the wings??
I was thinking of weaving wetted carbon tow through the holes and sandwiching it between the top of the spar and the leading edge sheeting for approx 3/4 of the length of the wing panel, therefore using the resin to bond them all together. I imagine the spar will need to be reduced in height to accommodate the wing joiner thickness and possibly the carbon tow. Would the resin make a good enough joint between the sheeting, tow and spar or not or am I overcomplicating things as per usual????
Your input would be much appreciated
Dan
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I use the dallas hannah system. Its based on the yateskno system and its machine work is first class.
I have attached a few photo's of the unit.
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k554/pjaussie/IMG_2803.jpg)
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k554/pjaussie/IMG_2804.jpg)
Bolts together easily and adds 1.2oz in total weight to the airframe.
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Hi Paul
I am building a take-apart Impact and have made the mechanics. If you want a set of PDF drawings just let me know
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I use the dallas hannah system. Its based on the yateskno system and its machine work is first class
Bolts together easily and adds 1.2oz in total weight to the airframe.
I have heard this before, but find it had to believe. I just got a note from Chris Cox who just got a new one for next years project and he weighed it at 75 grams. That's just short of 3 ounces!
I don't understand where 1.2 comes from. I have had them in my hand and they are no way 1.2 ounces.
Not intending to be overly critical, but I simply don't understand.
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You need to ask for the special light weight version only made for Australians...
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Ok looking back at the weights of each section. ( Which I had to dig out of the file... )
I have written down ; 61 grams for the unit. : 2.1 oz.
1.2 - 2.1 - Chalk it up to being lazy and a typo.
Now what I cannot tell you is : If I weighted it with or without bolts, and if that weight included the rear section. All I have written down is : Take apart Unit : 61g
I'm not sure who else is saying it was 1.2 - I dont see it being THAT light.
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I have heard this before, but find it had to believe. I just got a note from Chris Cox who just got a new one for next years project and he weighed it at 75 grams. That's just short of 3 ounces!
I don't understand where 1.2 comes from. I have had them in my hand and they are no way 1.2 ounces.
Not intending to be overly critical, but I simply don't understand.
The 75grams would be about right Paul, especially for the ones for the .75 size engined models. I just noticed the post as I've been out of action for near 3 months with real work again :-( !! The ones for smaller models would be a bit lighter but I've been making the wing unit part with an I-beam section starting with Dave Fitz' Thundergazer a couple of years back just to be sure. The Fuz bit is still the same section as original but just thickened up a few thou, once again, just to be sure. After an initial whoops with my .75 powered large area model back in 2009 scooting around at 4.5 secs/lap on max lines things got stressed a bit!! Plenty of flying since with updated bits and all is fine but at a more acceptable 5.2 secs/lap!!
The one PJ has is about the same size as the one Chris and his mate have. Maybe the lower weight is what the difference is when you take into account that there is no bellcrank mount and centre wing sheeting etc???
HH
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I have weighed the parts and get the weights shown on the picture
I couldn't weigh the main part the fits in the wing as it is already fitted but checking the actual weight of the main fus part against the CAD prediction, the error is less than a couple of %, so the total weight of the machined parts is only just over 2oz (2.03) the screws add a further 9g (6 M4 x 10 cap head screws)
The weight of just the centre section parts is 44.6g (1.57g) or 50.6g (1.78oz) including the screws
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PJ - I included the rear spar attachment in my weight calculation as well. May account for diffrence.
Dallas - your unit is sheer perfection. But, I am a little torn of what to use right now. The Tom Morris unit is about half the weight, but I fully recognize the Hanna unit would be much less prone to failure! How I hate making important decisions such as these, but alas, the lower weight of the Morris unit will likely win out over the heavier unit. n~
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Did you include the bellcrank mount in the comparison?
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I am looking for a take apart system for a very special project/prototype, so this may be a dumb question but I will ask it anyhow...
Are any of these t.a. systems for sale to anyone that wants them plus can they be bought in small batches?
and if yes, then how much per set and / or how many? As stated above I may need them for a very special project/prototype.
I can be emailed the answer privately if that is preferred.
builtrightflyright@builtrightflyright.com
Thank you in advance..
Walter
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I have this really nice picture in my head of the system that our local Mike Haverly uses, which I think he copied from Paul Walker (one of them can chime in -- I don't know for sure what Paul uses).
It uses three aluminum carry-through stub spars in the fuselage, one at each spar location and one toward the trailing edge. The stub spars are drilled and threaded, and engage with aluminum shoes (sockets? ends? dogs?) that are glued onto the inner ends of the spars. The shoes are drilled for a machine screw with a "U" slot to the outside of the wing. You drop in a screw, then screw it in and tighten it with a ball-end wrench.
It looks like it uses less material than the one shown so far, and it looks like something that can be done mostly with lathe work and minimal milling machine work. Pick your poison -- I hope someone posts pictures, and maybe clarifies things if I'm spouting misinformation.
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OK!
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Barry Robinson makes a nice carbon pull-apart system that works well. (And he's local to you.) ;D
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Some more info on take apart models for those who may be interested.
http://stunthanger.com/smf/index.php/topic,10958.0.html
Kim
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So how much do these cost? please email me