Super 'Phatic

[peabody]

Read a piece in Model Aviation about "Deluxe Materials"....
Has anyone tried "Super 'Phatic"?

Thanks

[Akihiro Danjo]

I had ever used Super Phatic about 5 or 6 years ago.
I could not find the proper application at all because it felt a little gummy and the joint was not very strong.
Might be good for light weight F/F models like peanuts.

Aki

[Avaiojet]

The stuff has been around a long time, 10 years is a guess.

It's just another aliphatic glue that does have a purpose.

I did use an aliphatic glue in areas of the Pushy Galore, but not the brand Rich mentioned.

It's popular with guys that have issues with CA because it's odorless.

I use a fan when I use CA so I experience no odor issues and I don't put my face into the task like many modelers do.

I also use a 'kicker' to speed up the process.

CA is my gal, I'll never leave her. 

[Jim Kraft]

I am very allergic to CA. I get symptoms like the worst cold I ever had and my eyes practically swell shut. I can use it for short periods in special occasions with out effect. But if I use it for a while in my small bedroom that I build in I get into trouble fast. I seem to get along OK to a point with the non allergic stuff. I use a lot of Sigment, Duco, and Titebond. Even a little of Elmers white glue. For firewalls and high stress areas I use epoxy.

There are places where CA is just the ticket and I do use it there cautiously. So if you use a lot of CA and the next day you can not breath through you nose, you are probably allergic. If you eyes feel like they have sand in them, you are probably allergic.

[Geoff Goodworth]

I have some problems with CA but I've been using Super'Phatic for several years.

I have used it for basic construction and repairs when wings came loose in profiles.

Super'Phatic is quite thin and wicks into good joints like thin CA but the parts need to be held or clamped in position for 20–30 minutes while the adhesive cures. That doesn't worry me as much as the brittle joints with CA. That it cleans up with a damp piece of kitchen paper and is easy to wasah off hands is a positive as wewll.

Unlike our friend Aki's experience, all my joints have been strong but very slightly slightly flexible as with all aliphatic adhesives. It also sands more easily than PVA or the other aliphatics that I've used but it's not as easy to sand as balsa cement.

I will continue to use it after I've finished the current bottle.

I don't use much epoxy any more because when you use an adhesive that wets the timber grain, it strengthens the timber around the joint.

When I was in high school, my woodwork teacher was one of the two who authored the textbook for junior high school woodwork in NSW. My dad was still using hot pot casein adhesives and to demonstrate the strength of this new-fangled PVA, he glued some strips of timber together clamped them and left the test piece until our next class. He invited students to try and break the glue lines. Try as they might, lining up the glue lines with the edge of the vice, nobody could get a break along a glue line—the break was always in the timber a short distance from the glue line.

The only caution that I have regarding this approach is that somebody has suggested that if the ply doublers are large in area, the adhesive joint may not fully cure. I haven't seen that with any of my models—yet.

[Steve Fitton]

I'm still missing Pica Gluit