stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: peabody on December 07, 2020, 05:20:46 PM
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Is this stuff what they advertise it?
https://www.towerhobbies.com/product/super-phatic/DLMAD21.html
Thanks
Peabody
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Is this stuff what they advertise it?
https://www.towerhobbies.com/product/super-phatic/DLMAD21.html
Thanks
Peabody
Haven't used that but their products seem to be great. I've used their "Foam Safe" glue on EP Foam RC planes and love it.
Dennis
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I have used it and kinda like it. It flows about like CA and penetrates well. Sets up slower than CA but faster than Titebond or Elmers. Doesn’t really set up hard, remains somewhat flexible. Doesn’t sand quite as well as Titebond 1. It has its uses but IMO not a do all end all glue. Free flight guys like it in some applications as Ambroid is gone and Duco formula has changed over the years.
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I've used it a lot, chiefly for wing spars - assemble ribs and spars dry, check everything's lined up, and add the glue using a fine nozzle. It wicks into the joints better than anything I know except cyano, and I feel more confident using it because it takes time to set, giving you an opportunity to spot and correct any line-up issues.
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Thanks
I ordered some from Amazing
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I have used it and kinda like it. It flows about like CA and penetrates well. Sets up slower than CA but faster than Titebond or Elmers. Doesn’t really set up hard, remains somewhat flexible. Doesn’t sand quite as well as Titebond 1. It has its uses but IMO not a do all end all glue. Free flight guys like it in some applications as Ambroid is gone and Duco formula has changed over the years.
Thanks. Got me some.
Howard
Through-hole man trapped in a surface-mount world
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Glue arrived solid. I got a refund. Looking at Amazon reviews, I see that this is a common complaint.
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Glue arrived solid. I got a refund. Looking at Amazon reviews, I see that this is a common complaint.
That's not good.
Bob Hunt suggested Titebond 3 to me. It's worked well so far. I like how thin it is and it doesn't grab right away which is helpful.
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Glue arrived solid. I got a refund. Looking at Amazon reviews, I see that this is a common complaint.
Howard you got the child-proof /spill proof version.
Dave
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I must not have that many applications where I need to use wicking since I've had the same small bottle of SIG CA in my refrigerator for a few years now.
Mostly I use Gorilla White aliphatic cut with about 10% water or Weldbond cut with 10% ammonia for better wood penetration when sticking stuff together. I keep it mixed in some small plastic bottles with needle (very large needle) applicators to use ala Tom Morris' recommendation.
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I worked in a hobby shop for 23 years. When a water based glue such as this was exposed to freezing temperatures, this would typically happen. Apparently a few hours in the cargo hold of a jet was ok, but overnight in the truck at sub-freezing temperatures was enough to ruin it. We returned lots of hard RC56 and Formula 560 canopy glue during the winter.
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I had ever used that stuff but I don't like it very much. Because it dries a little gummy and not very strong for C/L use though it would be OK for F/F use.
Aki
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I had ever used that stuff but I don't like it very much. Because it dries a little gummy and not very strong for C/L use though it would be OK for F/F use.
I have the same problem with all of the alternative aliphatic glues, and gorilla glue - they never get very hard and that makes them impossible to sand, they deflect while you are sanding, then spring back. Titebond II is particularly bad about it, it's like liquid rubber.
I like original Titebond and Elmer's Carpenter's wood glue over any of the new ones. Drying hard is not a problem, silicon dioxide sandpaper will still go through it like butter. Pica and the old white Luthiers glue also dried completely rigid.
I have the same issue with SIGMENT/Duco, to a lesser degree- too much plasticizer. I am sure it is tougher that way, so it might work better as an adhesive by being tougher, but that also makes it difficult to sand.
Brett