As for a FP25 swinging a 11” prop, that might be more than most people would think reasonable, but I used a 11-4 BY&O that was very well cleaned up on my Nobler, and Brett once commented that it was “noticeably overpowered”.
I think the fact that it was running under 4.5 seconds/lap was a good tip-off - with, as I recall, a tiny venturi (.220-.225, maybe?)!
This illustrates both that these engines are vastly more powerful than ancient 35s, and also, that trying to run the largest prop it will turn is a big mistake. I have seen people run stock-off-the-pegboard Tornado 10-4 3-blades on a box-stock 20FP, that is more load than a cleaned up 11-4 2-blade. It obviously is far from optimum, but you aren't going to hurt the engine doing it, this is not a McCoy 35.
It will happily turn a 11" prop, but, that is *vastly too efficient* and transferring all that power to the airplane just makes it go like a bat out of hell. So, what you need to slow it down is less efficiency, since it is already at the bottom of the pitch range you can get, that means less diameter. This also frees up the engine so it responds rather than run flat all the time.
People wildly underestimate what these engines can do. And not just FPs - I flew full stunt patterns with an ST46 using as little as a 9-4, and as much as a 14-6, straight out of the box with no changes. I follow Al Rabe's recommendation to some extent - don't worry about the engine, if the prop is wrong, the airplane will tell you. Note that at the time, using more diameter was the only degree of freedom you could reasonably explore, and you judged the power of engines by how much diameter they would turn, and that was how you got performance. This is *long gone* with modern engines, you have so much power you can afford to/have to figure out a way to waste it in the most effective way possibl
I suggest smaller props not because the 'engine won't turn' bigger props - it will - but because it allows you to get reasonable speed and reasonable response at the same time.
Brett