Sporthawk Construction

[Shawn Kuntz]

I have my Dare Design Sporthawk assembled and ready for covering.  I am told that the design is based off the old Veco Tomahawk.  I have mounted a 50th Anniversary Fox 35 on it and will using a 3 oz. uniflow tank from RSM.  I hope it will help me learn the beginner stunt pattern next summer.  I will keep you all posted of my progress. 

[Paul Taylor]

I like them bones!!!!

Please post another photo when you get it covered.

[Ken Deboy]

Nice looking airframe. I have one suggestion though: get a Hi Zoot crankshaft for the Fox from Randy Smith at Aero Products, then send it to Larry Foster for rework. It will run a lot smoother than the stock Stunt 35.

cheers,
Ken

[catdaddy]

Your pushrod is going to give you problems.
It will flex and give what feels like unresponsive controls.
You need something like a cotter pin half way between the wing trailing edge and the elevator.
The pushrod should run through the eye of the cotter pin and you should stick the pin into the fuse and epoxy in place.

[Shawn Kuntz]

I've been thinking about some sort of pushrod guide.  I haven't added anything at the end of the wire for the control horn connection yet so I can still slip something on.  I will take your advice.  Thanks.

[Bill Little]

Rick's advice is the "old" standard.    Of course, it works great! 

However, I like to take a CF tube (ID to fit the pushrod, or a touch loose) and epoxy it onto the pushrod, leaving about 1" open (more or less) at the rear end to connect to the horn.  Wrap the ends of the tube with CF tow, kevlar thread, etc., and epoxy coat the wrapping to prevent it ever splitting.  Never a chance that anything can grab or catch at the wrong time.

Also, make a fairing to go over the pushrod/exit hole on the wing.  This just helps to keep some of the oil out of the wing.  I have even cut a shape for this out of the heavy plastic covering some gadgets get "bubble" packaged in.

Bill <><

[Steve Helmick]

We have a bunch of Sporthawk clones in our club. I think all have various Asian .25's in them. They fly pretty well, depending on weight mostly. Mine hasn't flown yet, but it's pretty close to ready.  You'll like yours, if the vibrator doesn't cause fuel foaming problems.  Steve

[Glen Wearden]

In reference to the reply concerning your pushrod,  I would like to share what I did with a Flite Streak to which I added 2" to the tail and 1" to the nose.  I used a standard servo horn to make an "idler" arm, for want of a better word.  I cut all of the arms off the horn, except for one.  Then I mounted it to the side of the fuselage right above the point where a flap horn would be on a flapped stunter.  To mount it, I drilled a hole through the fuse and inserted a piece of brass tubing that would accomodate a 6-34 screw.  I then ran the screw through the hub of the servo horn, put a washer on, and ran the screw through the tubing so it protruded out the other side.  On that side I put a washer next to the fuse, and secured the screw with a wheel collar.  The pushrod coming from the bellcrank was attached to the outermost hole of the servo horn using a gold-n clevis, and the pushrod (arrowshaft) to the elevator was attached to the next hole in on the horn.  It works as smooth as can be, no slop.  I'll try to post a picture.......Glen

[Glen Wearden]

Sorry, couldn't post the picture.  Glen

[Shawn Kuntz]

It turned out okay.  Had a little bit of trouble with overspray from the spray can but overall I am pretty well satisified.  I used 21st Century Coverite Fabric on the wing.  I think Coverite is good stuff.  It is easy to apply, especially around the wing tips.  It's powered by a brand new Fox 35.  I like this kit!

[Leester]

Shawn: That really looks good, Dare puts out a real nice kit.