stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Crist Rigotti on September 10, 2024, 08:22:15 PM
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What is everybody using for ball links and where do you get them?
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Dubro.
https://www.dubro.com/products/heavy-duty-ball-links?_pos=2&_sid=3ecd83279&_ss=r&variant=30587588106
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Dubro.
https://www.dubro.com/products/heavy-duty-ball-links?_pos=2&_sid=3ecd83279&_ss=r&variant=30587588106
Do you use these on your stunters?
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I can certainly feel compassion for anyone who has had problems with Dubro ball links but I have them on several planes and never had a problem with them except the price. YMMV
I've also used the aluminum metric links on an F-twister and they seem to be holding up quite well. They need some rework to re-set and glue in the cap but no failures after several years.
I would like to find alternatives to these expensive and hard to find components.
MM :)
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I have been using Dubro links. Most of them have been fine, but on a couple of them, the ball was not free moving and 'sticky' right out of the package. I just discarded them and tried the next new one that was free moving. Once a good one was on the model, no issues. But the sticky issue has only been on a couple of them.
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Go to the R/C car department at the hobby shop (if you have one nearby) and see what they offer. I think Team Associated still produces their products and hardware, and everything is in standard threads. I think these have been mentioned years ago as being a good alternative after that one young by had the ball links on his Nobler lock up on him at VSC one year. Can't remember his name or the years but has been a while ago.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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I am using the ones recommended by Bob. I have taps and know how to tap hard rubber. I have used both 4-40 and M3 metric in the 4-40 tapped links. I color code them for left and right. The slightly larger M3 will thread into a 4-40 and holds just as well. I switched to these links because my Canard Twin has 8 ball links in the controls. They were originally DuBro with about a third of the rather expensive 20 pack going into the trash. The controls were free of binding but not of some resistance. When I replaced all 8 with Secraft all resistance disappeared. The smoothness and tight fit I attribute to the ball which is made of duralumin. It seems to slide over the hard body better than brass, steel or aluminum you find in most links. They come in both 4-40 and M3 but I suspect that only applies to the hole in the ball. I have purchased both and the body seems the same.
Ken
A word of caution: The length of the threaded part of the link is shorter than the DuBro but they are much stiffer. I can't find what they are made of but they tap like hard rubber. I tap mine as far as I can then screw in a connector as far as I can and count the threads to find center. You should make sure that you make your pushrod the right length to insure that you have at least two or three threads after adjustment.
Side Note - If you don't have left and right taps, find a steel turnbuckle and cut off the tip so that there is a sharp thread exposed. Put the link in a vice and use a large finger drill to hold the turnbuckle and thread the link. After you have done one, and this will work, order some taps. Everything you buy that is threaded should have a tap run through it before you epoxy it somewhere that the sun doesn't shine.
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Go to the R/C car department at the hobby shop (if you have one nearby) and see what they offer. I think Team Associated still produces their products and hardware, and everything is in standard threads. I think these have been mentioned years ago as being a good alternative after that one young by had the ball links on his Nobler lock up on him at VSC one year. Can't remember his name or the years but has been a while ago.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
The R/C car department at the hobby shop Dan mentioned will also have Tie Rods, sometimes made from titanium, that have standard and reverse threads. Cutting them in two pieces, these can be used on both ends of your pushrod so that very small elevator trim adjustments can be made instead of having to make a full turn of the ball link connector for adjustments and do not need to detach the ball link to do so. Just remember, a half turn of the pushrod is the same as a full turn on just one ball link. I have found that even an eighth turn of the pushrod is enough to make a noticeable difference in elevator trim.
From that same R/C car department, they have ball links/couplers that stand up to the beatings those things get in those R/C cars and trucks.
Keith
Keith
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Thanks everybody!
It looks like what Tom Morris used to sell are no longer available? Within the last week I ordered some ball links from Okie air, but I haven't seen where he shipped them. I understand he might not be shipping anything!
Does anybody know where Tom Morris sourced those ball links?
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Thanks everybody!
It looks like what Tom Morris used to sell are no longer available? Within the last week I ordered some ball links from Okie air, but I haven't seen where he shipped them. I understand he might not be shipping anything!
Does anybody know where Tom Morris sourced those ball links?
From a different thread.
https://dreamworksrc.com/product/secraft-al-ball-links-4-40-v110-black/#:~:text=SECRAFT%20AL%20Ball%20Links%20#4-40%20%E2%80%93%20V1%2810%29%20%E2%80%93
Not many left. There were three more sets but . . . . ;D ;D ;D
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Thanks everybody!
It looks like what Tom Morris used to sell are no longer available? Within the last week I ordered some ball links from Okie air, but I haven't seen where he shipped them. I understand he might not be shipping anything!
Does anybody know where Tom Morris sourced those ball links?
Rocket City.
Brett