Solid Line Terminations

[Paul Raley]

I am planning on setting up some 59' x .014 solid flying lines.  The last set I did was over thirty years ago and remember using the AMA handbook for the termination procedure.  I couldn't find my old copy and the description in the online version seems a little different than I remember (could be a bad memory on my part).  Any hints, suggestions, links that might help?  I have not used solids for many years but I recall the really precise control they gave compared to braided that I have used since.  I know solids are a bit of a pain to use...but wanted to give them another try to see if they are worth the effort.  TIA

[Brett Buck]

I am planning on setting up some 59' x .014 solid flying lines.  The last set I did was over thirty years ago and remember using the AMA handbook for the termination procedure.  I couldn't find my old copy and the description in the online version seems a little different than I remember (could be a bad memory on my part).  Any hints, suggestions, links that might help?  I have not used solids for many years but I recall the really precise control they gave compared to braided that I have used since.  I know solids are a bit of a pain to use...but wanted to give them another try to see if they are worth the effort.  TIA

       I would probably use the AMA-recommended termination for two-line systems, Figure 3. I would give you the usual cautions, but sounds like you have a good handle on the issue!

    BTW, we have done a lot with handles that greatly improves the directness of the control, even with stranded lines, look up "hard-point handle", of which there are at least 3 varieties in common use.

      Brett

[John Rist]

Last line in picture above "Coat wrapping with epoxy to secure".  I thought this was a NO-NO.  Makes for a stiff point that that will cause single point flex and line failure.  I cover my line wrap with shrink tubing.         

[Brett Buck]

Last line in picture above "Coat wrapping with epoxy to secure".  I thought this was a NO-NO.  Makes for a stiff point that that will cause single point flex and line failure.  I cover my line wrap with shrink tubing.         

    I don't use epoxy on stranded lines, I use either model cement, or use insulated magnet wire and dip it in acetone. It winds up holding the wrapping wire together but is still flexible.   For solids epoxy is probably fine.

    Brett

[Dan McEntee]

  The illustration for terminating lines looks like the only one I remember ever seeing, so it got my curiosity up to check some older rule books. I need to get by act together on my library because I know I have some "recently" old rule books for as long as I have been an AMA member and they used to send them out with each revision or provide one when asked. The only one I could find easily was from 1964 but I thought it might cover it, but it didn't. It goes into line lengths and diameters for the various events and such. The odd thing I found was in the Team Race rules, where they had 3 diagrams. two were for the set up and measurements for up to 3 up racing, where the take off area should be and where the "pits" should be, and it also had a diagram for a launching stooge for simultaneously launching modes for a race!! It's just an end view but shows what we typically use for a stooge that has a spring loaded release pin that grabs a loop at the back of a model. I think this is the oldest mention of a launching stooge I have ever seen.!
   But back to the subject, I really don't remember anything specific for solid lines for stunt other than what's in the illustration. And a lot of guys just use heat shrink tubing to cover the wrapped section and that retains the wrapping wire. If neatly done I think this would suffice for solids also.
  Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee

[Paul Raley]

Thanks for all the good advice!

[Paul Raley]

       I would probably use the AMA-recommended termination for two-line systems, Figure 3. I would give you the usual cautions, but sounds like you have a good handle on the issue!

    BTW, we have done a lot with handles that greatly improves the directness of the control, even with stranded lines, look up "hard-point handle", of which there are at least 3 varieties in common use.

      Brett

Thanks Brett.  That looks like what I remember.  The online depiction is probably the same but just harder to read.

[Motorman]

I and many others have used solid lines in racing and honking speed planes for many decades and never once used epoxy or anything else on the wrap. The key is to make your wrap tight like the picture shows with the right size copper wire. The line will break before the wrap lets loose.

MM

[Steve Helmick]

I've also used solid lines, sometime around 1970...and wouldn't go through that again. I'd suggest investigating the 3 strand "brass" (plated) lines from Ukraine. I believe all the top fliers use them. I have not, not being a top flier or serious enough to try to get there at my advanced years. On the other hand, I am very much an advocate for hard point handles, and would suggest starting there, then go to the Ukraine lines if you think that's not good enough.  Steve

[Ken Culbertson]

I've also used solid lines, sometime around 1970...and wouldn't go through that again. I'd suggest investigating the 3 strand "brass" (plated) lines from Ukraine. I believe all the top fliers use them. I have not, not being a top flier or serious enough to try to get there at my advanced years. On the other hand, I am very much an advocate for hard point handles, and would suggest starting there, then go to the Ukraine lines if you think that's not good enough.  Steve

So true.  I love the 3 strand Ukraine lines that I used before switching to hardpoint a year ago but properly stretched spectra seems to have about the same characteristics and is much easier to find.  With all that has gone on in the last couple of years I am not sure I could afford them!   I can't even find them.  Nothing on EBay or Amazon and ControlLineParts.com no longer lists them.

Ken 

[Dave Harmon]

So true.  I love the 3 strand Ukraine lines that I used before switching to hardpoint a year ago but properly stretched spectra seems to have about the same characteristics and is much easier to find.  With all that has gone on in the last couple of years I am not sure I could afford them!   I can't even find them.  Nothing on EBay or Amazon and ControlLineParts.com no longer lists them.

Ken

Yeah...we might not be able to get stuff anymore from Ukraine....ever...

[Steve Helmick]

Ruslan Kurenkov is on facebook sometimes...the fella in Ukraine with the Controline Parts business. I haven't been able to figure out when his last posts were, but it seems to me that it wasn't all that long ago.

An alternative might be to see if the PAW factory in England still sells it...if they are still in business. "Laystrate", I think it was officially called, but believe some called it "staystraight". Never having used it, I wouldn't know why. Steve