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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Bootlegger on April 19, 2020, 08:08:52 AM
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Guy's I got some 3000 Milliamp batteries that have what appears to be stainless tabs and the rosin core solder will not solder them together, what do I need to do? Thanks
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if u don't get any help ,pm me and I will tell u what I would do.
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BL,
You likely need more heat, use the high setting on you gun (on Wellers it is the first click in, not all the way squeezed). Also, you need to clean the surface with a degreaser and fine sand paper, steel wool or a scotch bite pad. If that does not work you could get special stainless steel solder.
Best, DennisT
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Can you tin the tab and tin the battery terminal? Asking that to separate out the heat "issue." 3000ma sub C cells can be a "heat sink."
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not the answer you want cuz you thought those cells would be a cheap solution...
https://www.banggood.com/SUNKKO-737G-110V-Battery-Spot-Welding-Hand-Held-Welding-Machine-with-Pulse-Current-Display-p-1348827.html?gmcCountry=US¤cy=USD&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_elc&utm_content=frank&utm_campaign=pla-mix-us-pc-0626&gclid=CjwKCAjwkPX0BRBKEiwA7THxiKqTUxdOLHlghlZ3ueVGBzWlkQYyfLk3pk_usaG2MWRt5_bxI2OzQxoCeDoQAvD_BwE&cur_warehouse=CN
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Can you tin the tab and tin the battery terminal? Asking that to separate out the heat "issue." 3000ma sub C cells can be a "heat sink."
You can remove the tabs and replace them with solder/de-solder braid. I used to do that if trouble soldering sub-C's. That is why I asked about the ability to tin and to separate out the possible 'heat' issue. The negative end of a sub-C is a heat sink to a small or underpowered iron and braid will not solve that.
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Guy's I got some 3000 Milliamp batteries that have what appears to be stainless tabs and the rosin core solder will not solder them together, what do I need to do? Thanks
I would suggest this method - use StaBrite flux and solder, tin the tabs individually, clean the flux off leaving only the tinning, then solder it normally to the tinned areas. I have had no problem soldering stainless with StaBrite, in fact, it tends to solder my stainless soldering pick as well as whatever it was I was wanting to solder.
Brett
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Guy's thanks for all of the help, now can you suggest the place to mail order it? I tried Lowe's and they didn't have any, so the search goes on...Again thanks...
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Just scuff those spot welded tabs up with some fine sandpaper, and use a 40 to 80 watt soldering iron with a broad tip to tin the tab, as has been mentioned. Raise the tab up on a piece of thin ply wood to help with heat concentration on the tab and not the battery. Then tin the wires, and then make the connection. I sometimes take stripped down Romex solid copper wire and hammer it flat to make a copper bar for connecting batteries. Back in my R/C sailplane and electric days, I made hammer head soldering heads for people's soldering irons and a VEE fixture so you could solder batteries end to end with no connector for powering electric motors. Easy to do, you just need the correct equipment. Those tabs are probably stainless steel, as has already been mentioned, and stainless will require a lot of heat to get to soldering point. Just make sure the solder flows when you do it to avoid a cold solder joint and a point of high resistance. If you go some old cells, practice on those. You need to get it hot FAST so you don't harm the guts of the cell.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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Fred Underwood I sent you a couple of P/M's Boot
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replied
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check your local welding supply for sta brite
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Today I found out that the tabs are mild steel so I was able to solder with rosin core solder, and I want to say thanks a lot for all the help/advice this web site "is as handy as a pocket on a shirt"...