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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Lauri Malila on February 05, 2017, 04:01:56 AM
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Hi.
I'm looking for a source for a good soft solder & flux for soldering stainless steel, like lines and such.
I used to have very good flux for the job but can't find that anymore.
It was written somewhere the Staybrite would work but I've never had luck with it and stainless steel.
So, all info is welcome.
(And before saying that lines shouldn't be soldered, please read the "Forum realities" -thread.)
Cheers, Lauri
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Needs to say ' Phosphoric Acid ( contains ) on the lable , to work on stainless steel .
plumbers Solder ( bars ) comes in 50/50 ( soft ) for tanks & suchlike - Mallable .
60/40 ( Hard ) for stronger unbendable joins .
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Like someone says , If you put DOPE where you DONT want to Solder , it wont stick .
Though watch it dont catch alight - keep a damp cloth handy whilst soldering .
Heat goes UP so keep the plane UNDER the Heat , so the flux runs down into iy.
So have a few paper towles UNDER where your loitering , too .
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Frigging Stranded Wire , Dip The Join in Flux beforehand , give it 30 sec + to do its stuff .
Tip Some flux ( Acid ) in a bottle lid .Its GONE . DONT put Used Flux back in Virgin flux .
Dip the Iron tip in the flux , ' Tin ' it on the bar ( solder ) Heat the Joint - Reflux -
( a bit of 1/8 sq balsa stick or ole paint brush - Acid onto HOT Joint . THEN Solder .
(https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b9624bbdf022e3b5395236d5cf8.ssl.cf4.rackcdn.com/Product-800x800/d7435db9-78ce-4afe-b5b0-506b2731c10a.jpg)
Ive got this from Bunnings & are using it on stranded S/S & single strand . duzzall - in the green bottle , works too .
(https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b9624bbdf022e3b5395236d5cf8.ssl.cf4.rackcdn.com/Product-800x800/62ae1cbe-6a49-4f05-bbef-b093e7473ebf.JPG)
Bars or sticks SHOULD be stamped 50 / 50 or 60 / 40 .
drop a bar of 50/50 & itll Bend , in hands itll bend , or if you whip it .the 60 / 40 ( tin / Lead ) has a bit of resistance if youve two hands on it . noticeable in comparison .
A leadout Binding soldered in soft , you can straighten with your fingers . pliers needed maybe on 60/40 . Probly Stronger though - so lap length to suit ??
Boil the barstewards in bicarbonate of soda solution , or rinse in acetone , or both . Spray with C R C etc or dip n oil . or both .
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Some silly mug has his new .016 solids on the reel on the floor in kicking distance , while soldering .
Next week theyve rusted sporadically . Had Stranded stored over soldering area . They rotted , The Acid Steam gets in your eyes and hair . Have Ventilation .a breeze .
for larger jobs . And Do It where you wont get acid steam in your goodies or spilt on your new Jeans . EITHER .
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So outdoors'd be good . Youd only spill it on the dog .
youd need a minimum of a 60 watt iron , Id Think . Ive a 80 watt , good for landing gear , tanks etc too . When Hot it should ' pool ' the melted solder , into molten drops . not fight to do it .
Got it at the local electrical trickery shop . They have ' uncored ' ( Fluxless ) Solder to , coilded fine stuff . a few mm diameter , in both 50/50 & 60/40 .
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check: https://www.castolin.com/fr-CH
rgds, Peter
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Or http://brandtedelstahldach.de/de/ferrinox-flussmittel-edelstahl/
Regards,
Wolfgang
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Hi.
I'm looking for a source for a good soft solder & flux for soldering stainless steel, like lines and such.
I used to have very good flux for the job but can't find that anymore.
It was written somewhere the Staybrite would work but I've never had luck with it and stainless steel.
So, all info is welcome.
(And before saying that lines shouldn't be soldered, please read the "Forum realities" -thread.)
Cheers, Lauri
I would advise against soldering lines or leadout cable. An old practice for sure, but the conventional wisdom of today is to copper wire wrap. Follow the AMA pictorial on the technique.
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Hi.
I'm looking for a source for a good soft solder & flux for soldering stainless steel, like lines and such.
I used to have very good flux for the job but can't find that anymore.
It was written somewhere the Staybrite would work but I've never had luck with it and stainless steel.
So, all info is welcome.
(And before saying that lines shouldn't be soldered, please read the "Forum realities" -thread.)
Read and contributed. SS lines should *never* be soldered, it greatly increases the failure rate.
Brett
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McMaster Carr has everything you need.
W.W.
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When I soldered I used electrical solder and paste flux for electric components on the copper wrappings. I don't know if it soldered the stainless...
Heat shrink is so much quicker and easier over the copper wrappings.
Phil
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Those links were interesting, thank you.
For CL lines I have my preferred method that does not include neither copper wrap nor solder. Or crimping.
I need solder for my free flight models, with those soldering is a must.
Whatever method I have used, I have never had a failure, either caused by a stress riser of corrosion. I guess it's like with everything else, things can be done in right or wrong way. And the wrong way allways gets most publicity:)
I may try McMaster, maybe they can ship to Lost Hills next week.. L