stunthanger.com

General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Paul Taylor on January 26, 2008, 08:28:17 PM

Title: So do I taper the grey area
Post by: Paul Taylor on January 26, 2008, 08:28:17 PM

OK here is a very simple drawing of the front of a profile.

In order to get smooth lines and taper down to the spinner, would you sand down the grey areas?
If so this would take off some of the engine mount. Would that be OK?

I will put a cheek on the outboard doubler also. Maybe 1/2 in and taper down.

Thanks
Paul H^^

Title: Re: So do I taper the grey area
Post by: wwwarbird on January 26, 2008, 08:31:17 PM

 Yes on the taper. y1

Title: Re: So do I taper the grey area
Post by: Paul Taylor on January 26, 2008, 08:34:31 PM

Side view

Title: Re: So do I taper the grey area
Post by: Leester on January 26, 2008, 09:50:05 PM

Paul: As far as taking off part of the motor mounts, no problem doesn't hurt anything. The tripler, I usually just have it a little thicker than what I need for the spinner. On some models when sanding in the taper you will expose a little of the blind nuts for the engine. I just fill with Epoxolite or your favorite.

Title: Re: So do I taper the grey area
Post by: Richard Grogan on January 26, 2008, 10:04:06 PM

Paul, I added 1/2"to the inboard side, then took the whole thing down to the spinner....

Title: Re: So do I taper the grey area
Post by: Paul Taylor on January 27, 2008, 07:49:34 AM

Thanks Guys!!!

So Richard how far back did you go with the doubler?

Title: Re: So do I taper the grey area
Post by: RC Storick on January 27, 2008, 09:02:21 AM

At least to the thickest part of the airfoil.

Title: Re: So do I taper the grey area
Post by: Brett Buck on January 27, 2008, 09:08:18 AM

Quote from: Robert  Storick on January 27, 2008, 09:02:21 AM

At least to the thickest part of the airfoil.

   At the very least. On my next profile (maybe pretty soon) I'm going to use stepped doublers - 1/64 to an elliptical termination well behind the wing. Behind the trailing edge because that's the weak point, and elliptical to avoid stress risers. On top of that, 1/32 back to about the high point or slightly beyond. Beyond is actually better - if you ignore the wing, you are putting the stress riser at the weakest part of the fuse, and if you consider the wing, the load is across the grain. That's one of the really smart things in the Skyray - the doublers go to about 3/4 chord.

     Brett