Smoke VS Sparks

[Dick Pacini]

This subject may have been kicked around before, but I was doing some research about electric power, specifically ready to mount complete systems and was somewhat amazed how reasonably priced they are.  Looking at the option to power with smoke, a new engine, tank, fuel line, filters, fuel and glow plugs, it might be cheaper to go with the sparks.

[John Rist]

This subject may have been kicked around before, but I was doing some research about electric power, specifically ready to mount complete systems and was somewhat amazed how reasonably priced they are.  Looking at the option to power with smoke, a new engine, tank, fuel line, filters, fuel and glow plugs, it might be cheaper to go with the sparks.

They are one time cost but don't forget Charger, soldering iron, and all of the support equipment like power meter etc.
Like any new thing there are set up cost.  Batteries vs fuel cost are a wash.  There is a learning curve to get electric to work.  I have fried a few motors in the past.  I have an electrical engineering background and because of this I enjoy electric power.  Electric works, fuel works - both have problems - both are fun when you get it right - both are a pain in the rear when thing go bad.  So it boils down to what ever cranks you tractor is the right way to go.   

[Dan McEntee]

This subject may have been kicked around before, but I was doing some research about electric power, specifically ready to mount complete systems and was somewhat amazed how reasonably priced they are.  Looking at the option to power with smoke, a new engine, tank, fuel line, filters, fuel and glow plugs, it might be cheaper to go with the sparks.

   Not if you don't get things correct on the first try. I have been following and reading the stuff on electrics since it's inception with great interest. One way to tell about it is following the classifieds, and seeing what is being bought and sold. all sorts of little gadgets to purchase and master in order to get things correct. Batteries coming and going and changing sizes physically in size and weight. You could think you have a battery that will do the job but after a while you change your mind, then you have to buy some thing else and most often not just one! I think it's probably comparable to IC, depending on what level you plan to compete in. Even if just sport flying, I might call it even, if for no other reason than there are engines just sitting around collecting dust and available cheap.          I think it all depends on what trips your trigger!
   Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee

[john e. holliday]

At my age and physical condition I have been reading and looking at the various places for install, charge and go fly systems.  I remember my first .35 was a McCoy .35 Redhead at $10.00.  Fuel tank, quart of fuel, prop, fuel (1 foot), 1/2 volt battery,  alligator clips and wire were somewhere around $15.00.  Back then I made $1.15 an hour.  Had to go through break on the McCoy.  So figure it is about even getting started with cost of living.  But, I also noticed that some place don't have in stock all the pieces for a complete package.  Also which is best charger that will tell voltage and charge rate.

[John Rist]

  Also which is best charger that will tell voltage and charge rate.

TP makes good ones:
https://www.thunderpowerrc.com/collections/chargers/products/thunder-power-rc-100w-10a-ac-dc-charger-tp610hvc.
At $69 it does it all.  However if you want to charge more than one at time the TP 4 unit is best.

https://www.thunderpowerrc.com/collections/chargers/products/thunder-power-rc-quad-4-x-100w-ac-dc-charger-tp4x610hv
However at $219 it's an investment.

Both units are AC/DC eliminating the need for a separate power supply for home use.

Hobby King has some cheaper units but you get what you pay for.

A good charger is the back bone of an electric setup.  LiPo batteries are expansive and can be easily destroyed if not taken care of.   

[Shorts,David]

This subject may have been kicked around before, but I was doing some research about electric power, specifically ready to mount complete systems and was somewhat amazed how reasonably priced they are.  Looking at the option to power with smoke, a new engine, tank, fuel line, filters, fuel and glow plugs, it might be cheaper to go with the sparks.

I think the question is, do you want your plane to be clean and reliable- albeit boring, or do you want it to be cool? But smoke and thunder has it's price.

[Neil Rogers]

I have flown electric now for two years and changing was the best decision I've made related to stunt flying in quite a while.  I refuse to say that it's the best way to fly, but I will say that it's the best way for me.

The only downside that I have found is that I can't just pack up and go flying like I used to do.  Now I have to allow about 25 minutes to charge 6 batteries before I can pack up and go.  It's not that big a deal.

[GERALD WIMMER]

Hello Me and the family mainly fly glow because with 4 people flying you would need lots of batteries which becomes too costly for us. I have flown a lot of electric control line in the past mainly smaller models . Started in the 1970's with round the pole (RTP) models converted to bellcrank control with power down the twin insulated lines, then went on to nicad batteries and brushed motors . Tried small stunters , combat models and scale with up to 12 cells and 600 size can motors before all the easy stuff came along with lithium cells and brushless motors. Its certainly easy to fly electric now by comparison to what we had 30-40 years ago!. Oh forgot to mention I love flying the smelly smokers,  those diesel delights! PAW fun.
Regards Gerald

[Dennis Toth]

Dick,
Since you are just starting in electric the two big expenses are the batteries and charger. The one thing you want to get top shelf is the charger. All the problems that people had with electric power stem from improper charging. John gave some good charger suggestion, the Thunder Power charges are worth the money, they are smart chargers and will not overcharge the Li packs. To find the rest of the setup you can go to the List Your Setup section above and find a plane similar to what you want to fly, copy the setup is one way to start. A second option is to go to the Brodak site in the electric section they have a chart that lays out setups for different size aircraft.

To get started here is what I did (and still use today). Once you have the power system I did a very simple setup using a Castle Creation ESC - set in control line mode at fixed rpm. I set the rpm in each section of the ESC to the same amount. Also remember to set the battery cut out to soft and the current cut off to fast at normal sensitivity. I use a simple Ztron timer (any timer will do, I just have several Ztrons and like the simple way to set flight time) and only use it to set the start delay and run time all other functions I set for 100% rpm and let the ESC control the rpm. Once you get more experience you can play with more complicated setups. This is more or less the Fox 35, Superfuel, 10x6 prop setup, simple reliable and easy to setup.

Best,     DennisT

[Ken Culbertson]

I made the switch three years ago and what everybody says here is 100% true.  Electric has it's own set of "gotcha's" but once you have gotten past that it is great.  I still miss flipping the prop and the sound but have no desire to wipe down another plane again.  Having said that, I think IC for pure sport flying is better.  The grab and go to the field, fly as many as you want and the guessing game to get a good run is not worth giving up for electric.  If I were to start fresh, it would be electric but if I had a garage full of planes and did not compete, I would stick with IC. 

That is just me, and I could be wrong - Ken

[Dick Pacini]

Dick,
Since you are just starting in electric the two big expenses are the batteries and charger.

Best,     DennisT

Actually, I am not planning anything at this point.  Brodak kitted my SSIII and I have a kit that so far is unmolested.  If I built it, I would consider Sparks but that is a long way off, if ever.  I retired from flying in 1975 and I would have a lot of obstacles to deal with.  Mainly dizziness.   We shall see.

[Dennis Toth]

Dick,
I understand where you are coming from about overcoming dizziness. I have recently had some surgery that has kept me from flying for some time which also causes me to have to fight dizziness. In the Amp'ed Up section John Rist came up with a remote key fob cutoff for the electrics. He has tested it with a couple different timers and it gives you on-demand cutout. I am working on an electrified S1 Ringmaster that I will add this small system to the ship so that while I get back to full flight time I have flight time control. I like this approach so if things don't feel good during the flight I can land without falling over. Something to look at.

Best,   DennisT

[Dick Pacini]

I would like to learn more about it.  Sounds better than doing lazy 8's for 7 minutes.

[Ken Culbertson]

I would like to learn more about it.  Sounds better than doing lazy 8's for 7 minutes.

Me Too!  I had a hatch come off on takoff last month.  I haven't flown level that long since I was 12.   It opens up trim flights to however long you want to observe as well.  I would really like that!

Ken

[Dennis Toth]

Here is the link to the first setup for the remote cutoff for electric control line:  https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/remote-onoff-switch-for-the-hubin-timer/

Here is the second article:  https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/safety-by-wireless-switch/

This approach for cutoff is not for competition as it is not 2.4Hz but for practice and in my option safety especially when flying alone it is worth having it.

Best,   DennisT

[John Rist]

Here is the link to the first setup for the remote cutoff for electric control line:  https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/remote-onoff-switch-for-the-hubin-timer/

Here is the second article:  https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/safety-by-wireless-switch/

This approach for cutoff is not for competition as it is not 2.4Hz but for practice and in my option safety especially when flying alone it is worth having it.

Best,   DennisT

The above link is my design for a Hubin timer.  Here is my discussion on a remote switch for a KR timer.

https://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/remote-on-off-for-a-kr-timer/

 The difference is that the Hubin timer requires a monetary switch, the KR requires an ON-OFF switch.