stunthanger.com
General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: James Holford on December 31, 2016, 03:08:08 PM
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She is getting there :)
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James,
Sorry about your mishap but I'm glad to see you're back at it. H^^
Brick by brick.
Charles
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Oh yea.. not giving up that easy.
Decided to scratch the tank that was on the plane due to damage and will mount a 2oz wedge tank. Yea it's small but be a good start for now til I get a bigger one and can handle longer flights.
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Slight update of the Ringmaster.
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You cant keep a good man , er Plane , Down .
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Hmm, looking at the pics the stab doesn't appear to be aligned at all well with the wing, looks like the outboard tip of it is down quite a bit? ???
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Honestly the elevator isn't square to the wings. But it didn't break off in the crash so I left it as is :)
But I assure you in any kit I build myself I'll try my best to achieve square:)
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Here she is.
Gotta put hinges on elevator and mount.
Put fuel tank on but not sure as to how to go about it.
Was fun.
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OH BOTHER .
I think youd better get a used hacksaw blade ( so the sides of the teeth arnt sticking out )
And Carefully slice forward under the tailplane . Then pour in a few gallons of PVA . ;D
Sit it on Blocks , or even things , So the WINGS ARE LEVEL .
And Blocks under the Tailplane So The TAILPLANE IS LEVEL .
Slide a thing up under the rear of fuse , so it holds the joint closed .
Pay to do a ' dry run ' Pinned .
At The Same Time , a ruler , stick with chalk mark , or stretched cats guts ,
from the spar to the hinge , at the tail planr tips .
Paul Walker can tell 1/64th missalignment on his IMPACT . He'll have your balls if its not straight . VD~
Tailplanes tend to fly LEVEL , which is how you trim a F/F ship , tilt it to get turn .
However a TURN with the Tailplane Tilted Like That , could make the ship swing in loose as you come out of a wingover into inverted .
;D :( :-X . Savy . %^@
H^^
A few ruber bands for the tank , or if it has tabs with slots , a few woodscrews .
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Huh?
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Ah Sorry , that was the guys SHOESTRING .
Tailplanes NEED to be All Square & Shipshape .
Yae dinnaey want it to veer off . Even flat & level wind could steer it with the tilt .
The general principle offlight with any aircraft is that the aerody-namic,inertial and gravitational forces and moments about threemutually perpendicular axes are in balance at all times.In helicoptersteady flight (non-rotating),the balance of
forces
determines the ori-entation ofthe main rotor
in space
.The balance of
moments
aboutthe aircraft centre ofgravity (CG) determines the attitude adopted bythe airframe and when this balance is achieved,the helicopter is saidto be trimmed.To a pilot the trim may be ‘hands on’or ‘hands off’:in the latter case in addition to zero net forces and moments on thehelicopter the control forces are also zero:these are a function oftheinternal control mechanism and will not concern us further,apartfrom a briefreference at the end ofthis section.In deriving the performance equation for forward flight in Chapter5 (Equation 5.42),the longitudinal trim equations were used in theirsimplest approximate form (Equations 5.38 and 5.39).They involvethe assumption that the helicopter parasite drag is independent of fuselage attitude,or alternatively that Equation 5.42 is used with aparticular value of
D
p
for a particular attitude,which is determinedby solving a moment equation (see Figs 8.2a–8.2c and the accom-panying description below).This procedure is adequate for many per-formance calculations,which explains why the subject oftrim was notintroduced at that earlier stage.For the most accurate performancecalculations,however,a trim analysis programme is needed in whichthe six equations offorce and moment are solved simultaneously,
Its kinda like having three road race slicks , and one Mud & Snow , on your truck .
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Oh I know.. it was like that when I got it... normally I would correct the issue but it isn't hurting anything :)
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James, Matt is right. Make the corrections to the stab now or you will just be repairing your plane sooner rather than later. It needs to be as perfectly level with the wings as you can get it, and the stab/elevator hinge line parallel to the wings or it will turn in or out when you do any turns. You'll be happy you did it now.
We all are glad to see your enthusiasm and want you to be as successful as you can be as soon as you can. Keep posting!
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It is easy to repair and set level - not worth skipping. It's not just an advanced contest thing. You will enjoy flying it a lot more and with less chance of crashing, if you just remove it and attach level. No big deal to do, but perhaps a big deal not to do.
For the tank attachment, here's one method. For a start, just place the tank in line with the fuselage and parallel to the thrust line, but about 1/16" - 3/16" above the venturi center/thrust line, and mark for two 3/32"-dia adjacent holes above and two below. Make 3/32" dia wire "J" hooks by bending four short pieces of piano wire into "J" shapes, with enough straight portion to sink 1/4" or more into the fuselage holes, without bringing the bent end into contact with the fuselage surface. Leave enough space to slip rubber bands past the curved ends. Nick the straight parts (Dremel disk, if you have one, file or saw otherwise) of the "J"s so that epoxy can fill them for a mechanical fit. Clean the hooks with acetone. Then insert epoxy followed by the hooks into the holes, so that the bent ends face away from the tank and are high enough above the fuselage surface that rubber bands can be inserted under each hook end. Remove excess , and let set up. Wrap bands between hooks and over tank to hold it in place. That's less than half an hour's work for anyone with a wire bending tool.
I've attached photos to illustrate only the finished product, since I couldn't find pictures of notched, bent hooks before insertion. The first picture of Bob Piktel's Yak-9 shows thinner wire, but about what you’d want. He has left no vertical adjustment space, but has placed the tank about where he thought it should go. Next shows a SkyRay installation. Its hooks are further apart than the tank height and take a light-weight plywood cradle with fore and aft restraints and places for fine-tuning shims. The next is my P-Force nose, which had a similar cradle. Last are of my recessed-tank hooks. The recess is self-constraining fore and aft, but is wide enough vertically to take adjustment shims, one of which is shown protruding some from under the tank in the last picture. These hooks may be removed with a twisting motion of pliers, and you can see in the last picture that a larger vertical spacing had resulted in removal of previous hooks. I know that all but the first photo are more than you wanted, but you might want to use something similar down the road.
SK
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Use tiny cup hooks if you don't have the J hooks.
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James listen to the guys. Their advice on the crooked tail is spot on. Take a moment NOW even if it means a little longer shop time. It will be worth it. You will be able to fly the aircraft on a STRAIGHT TACK. Now it will wonder and will, not if, but will cause you trouble. No matter if you got it like that. Fix it brother and go have some fun when the jobs done. Happy New Year!
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Im going to do it :)
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Im going to do it :)
James,
How much down time do you have on that model?
You're moving fast. H^^
Charles
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James,
How much down time do you have on that model?
You're moving fast. H^^
Charles
5 day vacation.. go back to work Wednesday. Original plan was to have it done for tonight. But really there's no rush. Can't fly til the weekend anyways.
Do have the tank mounted tho but will go to a 3oz. Tank whenever I get one.
Had used 4 "j" hooks with rubber bands but would move around too much and not stay above center line of the Venturi. Drilled out 4 holes and used Zipties and it's pretty good n tight and doesn't move.
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Drilled out 4 holes and used Zipties
Very Cunning . Youll have to Patent That .