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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: ericrule on October 22, 2012, 12:10:29 PM
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I just got off the telephone with Sig Mfg where they informed me that they will no longer have silk span available. At the present time they have only OO (Light) in stock and when that is gone they will no longer be able to obtain it.
According to the person I spoke to the company that supplied the silk span is out of business and they can not find any other supplier. Mike is searching for a new source but it does not look like he is having any luck.
This is particularly upsetting to me as we use two sheets of medium (GM) in each of the kits we produce. Since Sig had the only decent silk span covering in the country it appears that we will have to stop putting silk span in our kits as soon as our stock runs out.
If anyone out there knows of a source for good silk span please let me know.
Regards
Eric Rule
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Man, that ain't good. I use silkspan to cover fuselage and tail feathers.
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No silk span any more? Oh horrors: my world just got a bit darker.
I hope that you (or Sig) finds something. And I hope that it's as good, and that the supply doesn't dry up, etc. And (unless you start importing the stuff) please share your findings.
I wonder if Esaki might pick it up, or if we just all have to learn how to use Polyspan.
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I just covered a Ringmaster S-1 usiny polyspan. Just like covering with silkspan but no water. Use monocote iron to tighten. Heat gun will destroy your effort. Looks just like S/ p and needs less dope= lighter finish. Bye silkspan, hello polyspan. Its easy as pie. This was my first time using it and next will be a Magician .35 ..Hoooooray !!
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Is K&S still in business?
Thank god I bought up about 50 sheets when Sheldon's Hobbies went under a few years back. AND at 1/2 price to boot.
Larry Buttafucco Stunt Team
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I wonder if Esaki might pick it up, or if we just all have to learn how to use Polyspan.
The comment about Polyspan might be a clue.
Dan
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If this is way off base, please do not hesitate to call me on it (as if I would have to make such a request).
Possibly as an off-hand comment meant to illustrate the fragile nature of many CL Stunt models I can remember hearing statements to the effect that the base covering material is equivalent to the paper which forms tea bags. Yes, I can make an accurate attribution but I'm not gonna do it!
If this is true, what's the problem? Okay, I grant that is a big "if," but if I were to see a demand for it, as Eric clearly does, as few tests might be in order. And if it works surely it is produced in huge rolls which could be bought and then cut it into sheets.
Or is that where the crummy stuff is coming from already?
As a consistent user of plastic film, color me wondering why I have even made this post...
Dan
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Hello.
Polyspan is good, many times stronger than paper, but still not so puncture resistant. And sanding it can be a pain in Arsch.
For solid wooden surfaces, there is allways an option, like Japanese tissue or light weight Modellspan paper. Or this carbon stuff that everybody's talking about.
For open structures, how about the polyester "Ripstop" fabric that we use in Free Flight? Many sportsmen have allready abandoned the polyester paper, especially in F1A, because it's too fragile.
The material that I use is about 32g/m2, a bit less than an ounce/sq.yd. It's extremely strong, I think it's originally ment for technical clothing. There is also another similar material called "Icarex". It's about 37g/sq.m. It's easy to get from kite suppliers. The Japanese stuff that I use is just slightly better for my use, but in C/L it propably won't make any difference.
Basically it does not need any sealing after shrinking (with heat), but we normally brush 1...3 coats of well thinned dope and then wet-sand with #2000. That's because the new airfoils work better with smoother surface. But basically you could start with primer coats right after covering. The stuff is glued in place with thinned contact cement. The glue is brushed to where you want it to stick and let dry. Then the fabric is put in place with a covering iron and heat-shrinked.
Lauri
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I just orderd from here 60 sheets 00 http://www.hobbywarehouse.com/400-Silkspan-Extra-Lite-00-Weight?gclid=CKLk4M-2lbMCFYw-Mgod-hEA3A I called them and they have all you want. this is K&S
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Sig has had products called plyspan and litespan. Very similar to silkspan, but a little more rigid, with smooth and rough sides. I used it like silkspan and it has worked fine for me. It comes (came?) in colors, red, blue, orange, and yellow that I have. As I recall, Sig advertised silkspan at the same time. Five or six years ago, I saw some bad white silkspan in a Sig tube at a hobby shop, but do not know for sure it was a Sig product.
Dan is correct about the use of quality silkspan for tea bags. If nothing else, one could salvage tea bags and cover one bay at a time. LL~. I'm thinking of going to silk for everything. If so, I will have a bunch of plyspan and various tissues for sale.
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I just orderd from here 60 sheets 00 http://www.hobbywarehouse.com/400-Silkspan-Extra-Lite-00-Weight?gclid=CKLk4M-2lbMCFYw-Mgod-hEA3A I called them and they have all you want. this is K&S
They also have the SGM Medium Silkspan.
http://www.hobbywarehouse.com/402-Silkspan-Medium-SGM-Weight
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Sig has had products called plyspan and litespan. Very similar to silkspan, but a little more rigid, with smooth and rough sides. I used it like silkspan and it has worked fine for me. It comes (came?) in colors, red, blue, orange, and yellow that I have. As I recall, Sig advertised silkspan at the same time. Five or six years ago, I saw some bad white silkspan in a Sig tube at a hobby shop, but do not know for sure it was a Sig product.
If I'm not mistaken, those are Esaki tissue. It certainly looks identical to the Esaki that I got from Easy-Built.
Great stuff, except that now I'm spoiled.
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FWIW, Sig's Plyspan is listed as Esaki Plyspan in some of the catalogs. For several years I used the medium Plyspan to cover my models. It's a no go. It looks great when it's first applied, and it handles like silkspan, just a little more delicate, but over time it splits. That time between finishing the model and the splitting can be weeks, months, or years, but once it starts splitting, you can patch it and a week later the next bay splits, and so on. I only just recently used up the last of the Plyspan and switched to GM Sig silkspan and now I get to switch to something else... Great.
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Andrew, read my post two up from yours.
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I caught the note that K&S silkspan is still available, but I also remember a few years ago the K&S was labeled as the "bad" silkspan while the Sig product was supposed to still be OK. I haven't used the K&S, so I wouldn't know beyond that old rumor, that's just what I heard.
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I ordered enough 00 for six planes from Sig yesterday so get it while you can. Sounds like silk will be coming back in vogue!
Dave
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How many of us old guys tried Nylon back in the fifties. If you were not careful you could get a warped or mangled surface, and fuzzies if you sanded too much. But then, in the event of a crash, you could walk over and pick up your bag O' balsa and carry it off the field.
I will probably seek silkspan as long as it's available.
George
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We used nylon scarves on our combat planes. Got some really crazy patterns in the scarves.
Check out Dharma Trading Company for silk.
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Lucky for me, all my planes are done in Mono-cote.
Larry, Buttafucco Stunt Team
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Lucky for me, all my planes are done in Mono-cote.
Larry, Buttafucco Stunt Team
LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~
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I'm still using a box of K&S silkspan that came from, I think, Tower Hobby! I think it is as good as SIG.
I've checked several brands of tea bags. It is NOT the same as silkspan Tea bags have a looser, coarser weave (?)
Floyd
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After googling silkspan I found a couple different grades/thicknesses with a taxidermy supply company. http://taxidermyarts.com/p-545-silkspan.aspx