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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Shug Emery on April 03, 2015, 11:09:16 PM
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I was able to procure a brand new in box SIG Primary Force so thought I would share a looky-see inside. Man....it is a great looking kit.
Hope ya' enjoy seeing it.
Shug
Me and my friends doing a little pickin' as background.
https://youtu.be/WkPX96zEgBI (https://youtu.be/WkPX96zEgBI)
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Hope it's not too late! DO NOT use those flexi-hinges. Get some good pin-type real hinges. H^^ Steve
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One danger spot is putting the pushrod slot on the top when installing the wing. Or installing the decals using the slot as orientation.
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Hope it's not too late! DO NOT use those flexi-hinges. Get some good pin-type real hinges. H^^ Steve
I already plan on that for sure. Look to be a fast assembly. Thankee again Steve...it'll get a good home.
Shug
One danger spot is putting the pushrod slot on the top when installing the wing. Or installing the decals using the slot as orientation.
The pushrod exit looks to be on the bottom of the wing...same as tip weight box.
Shug
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Hi Shug,
I am so glad you found one because I know you wanted one very badly. I had one several years ago when they first came out and like all CL flyers, eventually it met the Earth rather abruptly. Since then I have built, I think, three more from scratch using Mike Pratt's plans. I love the design because IMHO, it handles as good as any flapped model I ever built. I am sure you are going go enjoy it.
Mike
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Looking at the video again, it looks like the weight box cover, push rod slot and a hatch over the bell crank are on the bottom. I'm glad you got one.
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Wow ... thats a really nice find! Please post pics/videos when you get her flying ... would love to see it. H^^
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Hi Shug,
I am so glad you found one because I know you wanted one very badly. I had one several years ago when they first came out and like all CL flyers, eventually it met the Earth rather abruptly. Since then I have built, I think, three more from scratch using Mike Pratt's plans. I love the design because IMHO, it handles as good as any flapped model I ever built. I am sure you are going go enjoy it.
Mike
Yessir. Keith let me fly his and it hooked me!
Looking at the video again, it looks like the weight box cover, push rod slot and a hatch over the bell crank are on the bottom. I'm glad you got one.
Yessir....they are . It is a well done ARF.
Wow ... thats a really nice find! Please post pics/videos when you get her flying ... would love to see it. H^^
Oh....you know I will! Thankee.
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Yes, the trick to remember about all the Forces is that they are an INLINE design. That is, the thrust line, wing and stabilizor are all in the same line.
W.
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Yessir. Keith let me fly his and it hooked me!
Yessir....they are . It is a well done ARF.
Oh....you know I will! Thankee.
Shug,
Assemble it as shown in the instruction book follow and it should be a great flyer except for the following item:
(1) Dump the CA Hinges, use pinned hinges.
(2) During the pushrod assembly, make sure the bellcrank is in the neutral position along with the elevators, mark the location of the pushrod where it passes through the clamp on the bellcrank. Using a file, file a small flat spot on the pushrod and install the pushrod into the clamp making sure the flat spot is directly under the clamp bolt and tighten the bolt securely against the flat spot in pushrod. A small drop of red Locktite on the threads of the bolt will keep it secure (forever).
(3) Use only slow drying epoxy to assemble the wing and fuselage. Do a dry fit test first and mark the location of the wing with a fine point Sharpie pen. Remove the covering on the center section sheeting of the wing top and bottom of the wing (where the fuselage is to be glued). Use a straight pin and poke holes in the wing sheeting, leading edge, and trailing edge along with the inside of the fuselage (where the two pieces mate). When the two parts are assembled with epoxy glue and allowed to cure, the pin holes act like miniature nails providing you with a very strong glue joint.
(4) Use an incidence meter to check the alignment of the wing and stab and make sure they are set at 0 degrees. Of the four ARF's I built only one was off at +.5 degrees and required a small amount of sanding to the stabilizer cutout.
(5) The pushrod slot and weight tip box go on the bottom (LOL).
I assembled at least four of these kits for friends of mine in the past and it was fast and easy to do. Each of the P Force ARF's were powered with different engines. One was a Fox .35, another was a LA .25 then a TT .36, and the last one was a Brodak .40. All the different engine were great and provided outstanding flight performance.
Later,
Mikey
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Yes, the trick to remember about all the Forces is that they are an INLINE design. That is, the thrust line, wing and stabilizor are all in the same line.
W.
Looks like it lines up well but will be vigilant in checking.
Gonna start on it today.
Thanks.
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Shug,
Assemble it as shown in the instruction book follow and it should be a great flyer except for the following item:
(1) Dump the CA Hinges, use pinned hinges.
Already have new hinges ready...
(2) During the pushrod assembly, make sure the bellcrank is in the neutral position along with the elevators, mark the location of the pushrod where it passes through the clamp on the bellcrank. Using a file, file a small flat spot on the pushrod and install the pushrod into the clamp making sure the flat spot is directly under the clamp bolt and tighten the bolt securely against the flat spot in pushrod. A small drop of red Locktite on the threads of the bolt will keep it secure (forever).
Great suggestion....I will do that for sure!
(3) Use only slow drying epoxy to assemble the wing and fuselage. Do a dry fit test first and mark the location of the wing with a fine point Sharpie pen. Remove the covering on the center section sheeting of the wing top and bottom of the wing (where the fuselage is to be glued). Use a straight pin and poke holes in the wing sheeting, leading edge, and trailing edge along with the inside of the fuselage (where the two pieces mate). When the two parts are assembled with epoxy glue and allowed to cure, the pin holes act like miniature nails providing you with a very strong glue joint.
Most is already removed. I'll try the pin hole thing...makes good sense.
(4) Use an incidence meter to check the alignment of the wing and stab and make sure they are set at 0 degrees. Of the four ARF's I built only one was off at +.5 degrees and required a small amount of sanding to the stabilizer cutout.
I'll be looking out for that. Would have not thought of it. I don't have a meter though...
(5) The pushrod slot and weight tip box go on the bottom (LOL).
Ten-four. Saw that in the picture.
I assembled at least four of these kits for friends of mine in the past and it was fast and easy to do. Each of the P Force ARF's were powered with different engines. One was a Fox .35, another was a LA .25 then a TT .36, and the last one was a Brodak .40. All the different engine were great and provided outstanding flight performance.
I have an OS .40 and an OS .35. Will more than likely try both.
Later,
Mikey
Thankee Mike.
Shug
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Is it flying yet? LL~ LL~ LL~
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Is it flying yet? LL~ LL~ LL~
Haaaa....no Sir. Other chores have come up and I must see them through.
Shug the Busy
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Shug, where might one purchase such a fine machine? Sig's website doesn't show one...
Steve
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Shug, where might one purchase such a fine machine? Sig's website doesn't show one...
Steve
Sadly....they are no longer made.
Shug
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Hey where is the comentary?
Whooo Buddy!!
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Hey where is the comentary?
Whooo Buddy!!
I was sick of my own sound! y1
Shug the silent
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Sadly....they are no longer made.
Shug
And, Shug's source has dried up. ;D Steve
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I built mine when they first came out and I'm still flying it. I got one of the first kits in the midwest in late January of the year it came out, 2006? I forget the year exactly. I built mine exactly as per instructions and used all the items in the kit with the exception of the push rod. It was a bit too short. I powered it with an OS LA.25 just as suggested in the instructions. I did this so that if anyone came into the hobby shop I work part time at and asked if it could be built and fly as per instructions without modifications, I could tell them with out hesitation, yes, absolutely. The tank was the first item to wear out, but not after quite a while. The hardware, nuts, bolts and such, is not the best quality, but useable. I used the same line length, handle spacing and engine set up Mike called out in the instructions. I got it assembled just in time for our Ice-O-Lated winter contest and put three trim flights on it before the contest. The result was a second place in profile that day. I flew it with the LA.25 for quite a while, then switched to the FP-25 just to get some experience with that engine. I think the FP had just a tiny bit more power, and ran both engines on 15% nitro fuel. Even with as well as it flew with the .25 engines, they were on the ragged edge for useable power. They were pretty much right at the peak of what they could put out for the 43 or 45 ounce air frame. Another local guy, John Garrett, put one together and powered his with an OS.32 and i was impressed with that set up. I had one in my engine stash, and when it became necessary to recover the whole airplane, I re-engined it with my Randy Smith OS.32. I don't know how many flights it had by that time, as I flew it A LOT! The covering was just coming apart. The clear top side of teh covering was separating from the colored portion. SIG no longer carries the same color orange, so i went with MonoKote. Do a search on the forum here and I went into the recover job in detail and what it took to get all the accumulated oil out of the balsa and ply. The recover went well, and even though the .32 was a larger engine with ball bearings, I still had to add some weight back to the nose after digging out all the lead shot I had epoxied in the nose for balance. And the finished model only picked up a half ounce or so. I love the engine, and have found a few more that are stashed away. I also have a Black Night Saito .30 in the heard and may follow Keith's lead and try a four stroke on the next one. I also have a couple more SIG P-Force kits stashed also, plus a couple of Mikey's short kits and plans. The next one may be from Mike's kit and I'll build it like the ARF kits with the leading edge sheeting. Just my 2 cents worth on my experience with what I think was the best ARF to come out on the market, and SIG should consider another run or two of them.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
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And, Shug's source has dried up. ;D Steve
My Source speaks!
I built mine when they first came out and I'm still flying it. I got one of the first kits in the midwest in late January of the year it came out, 2006? I forget the year exactly. I built mine exactly as per instructions and used all the items in the kit with the exception of the push rod. It was a bit too short. I powered it with an OS LA.25 just as suggested in the instructions. I did this so that if anyone came into the hobby shop I work part time at and asked if it could be built and fly as per instructions without modifications, I could tell them with out hesitation, yes, absolutely. The tank was the first item to wear out, but not after quite a while. The hardware, nuts, bolts and such, is not the best quality, but useable. I used the same line length, handle spacing and engine set up Mike called out in the instructions. I got it assembled just in time for our Ice-O-Lated winter contest and put three trim flights on it before the contest. The result was a second place in profile that day. I flew it with the LA.25 for quite a while, then switched to the FP-25 just to get some experience with that engine. I think the FP had just a tiny bit more power, and ran both engines on 15% nitro fuel. Even with as well as it flew with the .25 engines, they were on the ragged edge for useable power. They were pretty much right at the peak of what they could put out for the 43 or 45 ounce air frame. Another local guy, John Garrett, put one together and powered his with an OS.32 and i was impressed with that set up. I had one in my engine stash, and when it became necessary to recover the whole airplane, I re-engined it with my Randy Smith OS.32. I don't know how many flights it had by that time, as I flew it A LOT! The covering was just coming apart. The clear top side of teh covering was separating from the colored portion. SIG no longer carries the same color orange, so i went with MonoKote. Do a search on the forum here and I went into the recover job in detail and what it took to get all the accumulated oil out of the balsa and ply. The recover went well, and even though the .32 was a larger engine with ball bearings, I still had to add some weight back to the nose after digging out all the lead shot I had epoxied in the nose for balance. And the finished model only picked up a half ounce or so. I love the engine, and have found a few more that are stashed away. I also have a Black Night Saito .30 in the heard and may follow Keith's lead and try a four stroke on the next one. I also have a couple more SIG P-Force kits stashed also, plus a couple of Mikey's short kits and plans. The next one may be from Mike's kit and I'll build it like the ARF kits with the leading edge sheeting. Just my 2 cents worth on my experience with what I think was the best ARF to come out on the market, and SIG should consider another run or two of them.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
I love hearing this. Just about done putting mine together. Easiest to assemble ARF ever. Just well thought out.
Got the old OS .35 on the nose and all I have to do now is hinge it. Will use different hinges. Do the pushrod and horns and do my leadout ends. Then off to fly)))))
SIG should strike now as the iron is hot.
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All put together....now to fly ))))))
Shug
(http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad127/Shug7secure/Control%20Line%20Airplanes/IMG_1501_zpsosojm2e7.jpg) (http://s928.photobucket.com/user/Shug7secure/media/Control%20Line%20Airplanes/IMG_1501_zpsosojm2e7.jpg.html)
(http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad127/Shug7secure/Control%20Line%20Airplanes/IMG_1500_zpsqc8eyd11.jpg) (http://s928.photobucket.com/user/Shug7secure/media/Control%20Line%20Airplanes/IMG_1500_zpsqc8eyd11.jpg.html)
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I built mine when they first came out and I'm still flying it. I got one of the first kits in the midwest in late January of the year it came out, 2006? I forget the year exactly. I built mine exactly as per instructions and used all the items in the kit with the exception of the push rod. It was a bit too short. I powered it with an OS LA.25 just as suggested in the instructions. I did this so that if anyone came into the hobby shop I work part time at and asked if it could be built and fly as per instructions without modifications, I could tell them with out hesitation, yes, absolutely. The tank was the first item to wear out, but not after quite a while. The hardware, nuts, bolts and such, is not the best quality, but useable. I used the same line length, handle spacing and engine set up Mike called out in the instructions. I got it assembled just in time for our Ice-O-Lated winter contest and put three trim flights on it before the contest. The result was a second place in profile that day. I flew it with the LA.25 for quite a while, then switched to the FP-25 just to get some experience with that engine. I think the FP had just a tiny bit more power, and ran both engines on 15% nitro fuel. Even with as well as it flew with the .25 engines, they were on the ragged edge for useable power. They were pretty much right at the peak of what they could put out for the 43 or 45 ounce air frame. Another local guy, John Garrett, put one together and powered his with an OS.32 and i was impressed with that set up. I had one in my engine stash, and when it became necessary to recover the whole airplane, I re-engined it with my Randy Smith OS.32. I don't know how many flights it had by that time, as I flew it A LOT! The covering was just coming apart. The clear top side of teh covering was separating from the colored portion. SIG no longer carries the same color orange, so i went with MonoKote. Do a search on the forum here and I went into the recover job in detail and what it took to get all the accumulated oil out of the balsa and ply. The recover went well, and even though the .32 was a larger engine with ball bearings, I still had to add some weight back to the nose after digging out all the lead shot I had epoxied in the nose for balance. And the finished model only picked up a half ounce or so. I love the engine, and have found a few more that are stashed away. I also have a Black Night Saito .30 in the heard and may follow Keith's lead and try a four stroke on the next one. I also have a couple more SIG P-Force kits stashed also, plus a couple of Mikey's short kits and plans. The next one may be from Mike's kit and I'll build it like the ARF kits with the leading edge sheeting. Just my 2 cents worth on my experience with what I think was the best ARF to come out on the market, and SIG should consider another run or two of them.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee
Dan I have a great OS 32 that REALLY need a P-Force home! I agree that Sig needs to run another batch of these fine planes and if not you should sell me one of your kits!
Steve
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Shug, where might one purchase such a fine machine? Sig's website doesn't show one...
Steve
Check the vendors section Mikey's Models. The P-Force is being kitted again right now. Laser cut and improved kit.