News:



  • May 16, 2024, 07:49:30 PM

Login with username, password and session length

Author Topic: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)(pics of repair)  (Read 16871 times)

Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #50 on: April 26, 2010, 09:32:29 AM »
    4 3/4!  That's a tremendous amount of pitch for that engine. It sounds to me that you were awfully close the way it is.  I would guess that you have a bit too much diameter, too little venturi, too little rpm, too much pipe length, or not enough nitro. But just about no one is using that much pitch and if you do you are losing a bunch of power.

      Brett

I was turning 10600 RPMs on the ground on Saturday, and we're using 10% nitro.  We do have the prop that is supposed to work REALLY well with this motor, but we need to plug up the hole and redrill it for 1/4 inch (it is now a 5/16 hole since it was on the big 40).  Pipe length is 17.5".  It's a learning experience, as this is the first time I've fooled around with a piped motor...

I'll find out what it does today
Matt Colan

Online Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13751
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #51 on: April 26, 2010, 10:55:22 AM »
I was turning 10600 RPMs on the ground on Saturday, and we're using 10% nitro.  We do have the prop that is supposed to work REALLY well with this motor, but we need to plug up the hole and redrill it for 1/4 inch (it is now a 5/16 hole since it was on the big 40).  Pipe length is 17.5".  It's a learning experience, as this is the first time I've fooled around with a piped motor...

     Don't fill and redrill it - get a piece of fiberglass arrowshaft, or the right sizes of brass telescoping tubing and make a sleeve that has about a 1/4" ID and a 5/16 OD. Redrilling can be pretty iffy  and there's a good chance it won't be in the center any more.

    17 1/2" seems a bit on the long side (or the short side*) for 11,000 or so.

   The pitch range you are looking for will be between about 3 3/4 and 4 1/4". If you can't get sufficient speed with that, it's not the prop that needs to change.

     Brett

*depending on which pipe you are talking about, there can be multiple "right" lengths.

Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #52 on: April 26, 2010, 10:59:41 AM »
     Don't fill and redrill it - get a piece of fiberglass arrowshaft, or the right sizes of brass telescoping tubing and make a sleeve that has about a 1/4" ID and a 5/16 OD. Redrilling can be pretty iffy  and there's a good chance it won't be in the center any more.

    17 1/2" seems a bit on the long side (or the short side*) for 11,000 or so.

   The pitch range you are looking for will be between about 3 3/4 and 4 1/4". If you can't get sufficient speed with that, it's not the prop that needs to change.

     Brett

*depending on which pipe you are talking about, there can be multiple "right" lengths.


Thanks for the info!  Grandpa should be over in a few minutes, and we'll get some flights in!

I'm not sure what pipe that I have on because he got about 4-5 pipes back around 1997, so I'm in the dark there...
Matt Colan

Offline Derek Barry

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 2830
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #53 on: April 26, 2010, 11:31:20 AM »
Thanks for the info!  Grandpa should be over in a few minutes, and we'll get some flights in!

I'm not sure what pipe that I have on because he got about 4-5 pipes back around 1997, so I'm in the dark there...

Brett is right. You should only need a 3 3/4 to 4 1/4 pitch prop for that engine. Something is not adding up. Good luck with it today.

Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #54 on: April 26, 2010, 06:24:03 PM »
Today was an eventful day.  After the first flight, the tank hold downs broke loose, so I put in the car to head over to the shop.  I got two flight in with the Ares, quit after that due to high winds.  We went over to the shop, put better hold downs on the plane.  Then we checked on the wind, and it died down so we drove back to my house to get a couple more flights in.  This time, on the second flight, the pipe hold down broke, so I aborted the rest of the pattern that I can do with the plane.

I have 2 big problems with the plane:

1) the plane flies great up until the square 8.  I'm losing line tension when I turn inside to outside, and I have to almost back up to get enough tension or just bail out.
2) I can't do an hourglass, period.  As soon as start the second corner,  I lose tension.

Anybody got suggestions  ???
Matt Colan

Offline William DeMauro

  • 21 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *
  • Posts: 796
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #55 on: April 26, 2010, 07:44:42 PM »
Hi Matt,
Plane looks great!!! Don't get discouraged there is plenty of good help out here and your grandfather will help steer you in the right direction. I know by the time I see you at a contest this year it will be all worked out. I am looking forward to seeing it fly. Best of luck with it!!!
William
AMA 98010

Offline Peter Ferguson

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • ****
  • Posts: 369
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #56 on: April 26, 2010, 08:05:52 PM »
Matt, try this.
Peter Ferguson
Auburn, WA

Offline Doug Moon

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2194
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #57 on: April 26, 2010, 09:02:43 PM »
As far as the prop not fitting.  You can also use a Brio ball point pen to act as a filler.  Most grocery stores have them if you cant find the other items.  Pull the guts out and cut the shell to length.  Slip it on the shaft then on goes the prop.  

As for trimming.  It is an art all its own.  I am probably not going to tell you more than you already know.  I have been reading your columns and it is easy to see you already know alot about this stuff but I thought I might lay out some of how I take one from the beginning and see if it might help.

I start with getting the wing level.  This is a must.  You wont get far without first accomplishing this task.  Without the wing level it will hinge or make funny movements during the intersections and or bottoms.  It wont be consistent either.  Have your Grandpa and others watch as it flies by inverted and upright.  This is something you will need to watch for during the first few flights, say 15-25 or less if you get it right close at the onset.  But keeping an eye on it at first is always a good plan.

Then I try to get the turns equal.  Meaning inside and outside feel and look to be about the same speed with normal input.  This is not done with CG movements.  This is push rod length adjustments. Usually they are pretty close and few adjustments gets them close enough to move to the next steps.  You may not have to adjust it at all.  But it is something to look for at the beginning.  

CG and LO placement.  This is a trial and error game.  This will take some time to get it correct.  There are a few things you can do to bench trim it and get it close.  As far as LO position goes it depends on the rudder setting.  If it is straight away with no offset you will find the center of the LOs to be behind the CG by a good margin.  Maybe 1" or more.  Those who fly the straight rudder setting can tell you better than I.  If you run offset or an airfoiled rudder you will find the LO position just behind the CG.  I usually end up with my forward LO 1/8"-1/4" behind the CG.

CG should be near the mark on the plan.  If it doesnt have one then you may need some trial and error here as well.  I personally take the % of the tail area and place the CG that far aft LE at the MAC of the wing.  Finding MAC is a snap, http://www.bakehead.com/wing_CG.htm
Or you can go about 1/8" forward for starters.  This should get you ring in the ball park.

The TW is what it is.  You need just enough to offset the drag of the lines at that is all.  This is mission critical as well.  Too much and you get an oscillation on the lines when you turn a corner.  And you can "throw" the wing when you transition from inside to outside.  This cause immediate loss of line tension and then back on again.  You wont have any consistency because you will be losing the tension right when you need it to keep the thing in control.  

Oh Yeah, you will be hunting for the right prop during this initial trimming as well.  Once you get the right prop about 90% of this cured and you can really work out the little stuff.  

From what you were saying about the bailout during the square 8 you may have too much TW in there and it is hinging really bad when you turn and causing and oscillation.  Worst of both worlds.  

Fist things first get the prop close to where it is running even across the flight and the speeds are comfortable.  It should have minimal wind up if any during round consecutive loops.  Level the wing right away.  Then get down to brass tacks on this other stuff.

Let us know how it goes.  

One other thing.  Trimming on the PC is tough to do.  So take what everyone tells you and make your own observations at the field and try to see what offered suggestions will work in your situation.  Most things you hear will be good suggestions but they might not all work for your situation.

Over the years I have had great input from people on these forums when trimming out a new plane.  It has been very helpful and I have learned alot.  Thanks


Doug Moon
AMA 496454
Dougmoon12@yahoo.com

Online Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13751
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #58 on: April 26, 2010, 09:20:57 PM »

I have 2 big problems with the plane:

1) the plane flies great up until the square 8.  I'm losing line tension when I turn inside to outside, and I have to almost back up to get enough tension or just bail out.
2) I can't do an hourglass, period.  As soon as start the second corner,  I lose tension.

Anybody got suggestions  ???

      These are symptoms of either the wrong tipweight or incorrect rudder/leadout positioning or a tweak (both problems are on hard outside corners).

I would to go to this thread:

http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=103&topic_id=198025&mesg_id=198025

   and see if there is anything there that will help. The KEY thing is to set the leadouts about right by calculation, then futz with the rudder to get it as straight at possible. If the airplane is straight there isn't a big range of possible adjustments for "personal preference", and the correct settings can be pretty easily determined. If you just try to stick it together and do everything entirely by experiment you will spend an awful lot of time at it.

   Some obvious questions  - where are the leadouts relative to the CG?  Where is the CG in percentage of MGC? How does the airplane roll and yaw at the transitions from inside to outside (like at the intersection of the round 8?). Does the outboard wing hang down upright and inverted?

Or it could be a lack of power. How did the prop fiddling work out, and what was the lap time?

      Brett

Offline RandySmith

  • Administrator
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *****
  • Posts: 13747
  • Welcome to the Stunt Hanger.
    • Aero Products
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #59 on: April 26, 2010, 10:58:36 PM »
I was turning 10600 RPMs on the ground on Saturday, and we're using 10% nitro.  We do have the prop that is supposed to work REALLY well with this motor, but we need to plug up the hole and redrill it for 1/4 inch (it is now a 5/16 hole since it was on the big 40).  Pipe length is 17.5".  It's a learning experience, as this is the first time I've fooled around with a piped motor...

I'll find out what it does today

Hi Matt

AS I had written in my email to you, This is the setup you should start with for the plane. Use the 2 blade bolly 11 3/4 x 4 1/4 cut down to 11.5 inches, The stock pitch the way it comes is about 3.8 at the 10 inch station, USE the prop as is... first, adjust later if need be
I use a #14 venturie with this prop a 16 7/8 inch pipe lenght, You should be on the ground at about 11,000 RPMs, launch with the motor just into a 2 cycle, after launch it should drop into a strong 4 cycle within 1 lap...mine drops at 1/2 lap.
If the plane is too slow,then pitch the prop up, if too fast pitch it down, if the plane sags or slows in the tops of manouvers...add more nitro. if it charges thru manouvers too fast subtract nitro.
For the prop I use either a short piece of 5/16 tubing inserted into the hub or a spinner bushing...both are very quick n easy

Let me know how it goes

Randy

Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #60 on: April 27, 2010, 05:31:54 AM »

Or it could be a lack of power. How did the prop fiddling work out, and what was the lap time?

      Brett

The prop fiddling brought lap times in from 5.8 to 5.4, but she still runs out of steam when I first start the second turn on the hourglass.  The motor seemed to handle that pitch change well going into a two when the nose went up, and coming back into a 4 when she leveled out.

Today, if and when my baseball game gets cancelled (crappy weather over here), we'll fix the pipe mount, and reset the pipe and put the other prop on as what Randy Smith has written here, and in the email he sent me.  I won't be able to fly again until Friday, where temps are supposed to become really nice (upper 60s low 70s) and the sun will come out again.

Matt Colan

Offline Steve Fitton

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 2272
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #61 on: April 27, 2010, 06:34:49 AM »
I strongly concur on getting the motor run/lap time sorted first and foremost.  If 5.4 is loose, I bet 5.2 would be a massive improvement.  All trimming charts or tutorials have getting the correct lap speed/motor run as either step one or its assumed you already have that nailed.  Trimming with a lack of performance in the engine setup is impossible and likely to result in loss of the plane.  Break it down one bit at a time: motor run, then start with the elements of trim like Doug mentioned, or the PW chart, etc etc etc.
Steve

Offline Derek Barry

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 2830
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #62 on: April 27, 2010, 07:26:05 AM »
Sounds like you are getting some good advice I am sure you will have it all worked out soon. I would put a little tip weight in before the next flight though.

Offline Jim Pollock

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 948
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #63 on: April 27, 2010, 08:29:04 AM »
How much run time is on the engine Matt?
You can't just take a fine engine out of the box and have it run properly with no break in.
I recommend at least 1.5 hrs before flying it.

Jim Pollock   H^^

Offline Randy Powell

  • 21 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 10478
  • TreeTop Flyer
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #64 on: April 27, 2010, 09:48:06 AM »
Matt,

Have you got Paul Walker's trim chart? I think Scott Reise has it in Excel or something. I use this religiously when trimming a plane. It can really help.

Randy Smith has already posted a very good analysis on how to get the prop, nitro and run in balance. Follow that for the engine run.
Member in good standing of P.I.S.T
(Politically Incorrect Stunt Team)
AMA 67711
 Randy Powell

Offline Mike Ferguson

  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Commander
  • *
  • Posts: 282
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #65 on: April 27, 2010, 01:11:20 PM »
Matt,

Have you got Paul Walker's trim chart? I think Scott Reise has it in Excel or something. I use this religiously when trimming a plane. It can really help.

My Uncle Pete posted them a little bit up thread, in PDF form.   ;)

Regardless of format, they're definitely a must-have.

Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #66 on: April 27, 2010, 04:55:13 PM »
Matt,

Have you got Paul Walker's trim chart? I think Scott Reise has it in Excel or something. I use this religiously when trimming a plane. It can really help.

Randy Smith has already posted a very good analysis on how to get the prop, nitro and run in balance. Follow that for the engine run.

Yeah we got the trimming chart.

Today we reset the motor per Randy's instructions, moved the leadouts back, and spent over 2 hours trying to get some motor offset, and we got a little more than 1/16 of an inch of offset.

I'll find out what happens on Friday or Saturday, when this god awful snow ends, and melts and gets back up to the 60s and 70s again...

Of course I'll let you all know what happens H^^
Matt Colan

Offline john e. holliday

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 22777
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #67 on: April 28, 2010, 06:02:34 AM »
You are finally getting snow? %^@ It's about time, now maybe we can catch on with you on practice. H^^
John E. "DOC" Holliday
10421 West 56th Terrace
Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.

Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #68 on: April 28, 2010, 07:00:29 AM »
You are finally getting snow? %^@ It's about time, now maybe we can catch on with you on practice. H^^

Yeah this snow is just HORRIBLE!!!  I woke up this morning, and my backyard is flooded, so I really don't know when I'll be able to fly again.  I guess we'll be flying after baseball practice at times now (which ends at 5:00).  Right now it's a mixed bag of precipitation, some rain some snow.  Even during winter we didn't have weather this bad.  Maybe this is a good excuse to go to my school and fly there!?!

Today, I plan to mount the pipe, put the cowl back on, help grandpa glue the hinges in on his Startfire (no relation ro Randy Smith's), watch some old videos, and maybe resume construction on my Cobra (I'm in the market for an engine, PA 40UL or RO-Jett 40 RE for that plane, I've become a big fan of today's motors)...

Matt Colan

Online Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13751
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #69 on: April 28, 2010, 10:31:19 AM »
AS I had written in my email to you, This is the setup you should start with for the plane. Use the 2 blade bolly 11 3/4 x 4 1/4 cut down to 11.5 inches, The stock pitch the way it comes is about 3.8 at the 10 inch station, USE the prop as is... first, adjust later if need be
I use a #14 venturie with this prop a 16 7/8 inch pipe lenght, You should be on the ground at about 11,000 RPMs, launch with the motor just into a 2 cycle, after launch it should drop into a strong 4 cycle within 1 lap...mine drops at 1/2 lap.

   Matt,

   To expand a bit on what Randy says, 17.5" of pipe is appropriate for about 9200-9500 (ground) rpm for this particular engine. I am running 17.5, but I launch at 10000 and have more exhaust duration (which also makes it want to be longer). Where you are headed with pitch is certainly consistent with pretty low in-flight RPM of around 9500-9600. It will run that way, but you are giving up tremendous power by running too slowly.

    If, at that length you try to crank it up all the way to 11,000 on the ground (maybe 11,700 in the air), it will have to be over the top lean because the pipe is set to try to *fight against* going that fast. In fact, I predict that as you were trying to get up to 10,600, the needle stopped having much effect, and you had to turn it a lot to get the last few hundred RPM. The pipe is there to regulate the speed, and you have it set to prevent going that fast. A shorter pipe regulates at a higher RPM, so you need to set the pipe length to correspond to the desired RPM. For 3 3/4" of pitch on this type of prop you will need about 11,500 in the air/11,000 or so on the ground, so the pipe need to be set accordingly. You *want* less pitch, that's why piped systems work better than 70's- style 4-2 break systems. Once you get it set, there's hardly any need to fiddle with it any more, only slight tweaks maiy ever be required once you really know what you are doing. The pipe part of it is a known quantity, you set it and forget it.

    Note also that cutting down the prop from 11 3/4 to 11 1/2 as recommended has a huge effect on the load on the engine, and require significantly less torque to spin at a particular RPM. Once you get the pipe right for the rpm, then you set the rest based on prop load. For the stock venturi, to get a reasonable setting you need to get a light enough load that it will 4-stroke in level flight. You *might* be able to run more load (either more diameter or a 3-blade) with a bigger venturi or more nitro, but until you have a baseline system working there's no way you should start futzing with it in that way. IF you have too much diameter, you will be too lean in flight and it will either shift your "operating point" so that it breaks when you don't want it to, or it will be too soft.

   For the advanced user, there are other things you can fiddle with, but you would probably be surprised at how little people mess with it. For the most part, even at the highest levels, you get a working baseline system, and then forget about it. I literally haven't touched any of my piped engine setups for  7-8 years now - and I know what to do. The engines are so consistent and repeatable from day to day and from engine to engine that it's trivial for Randy to tell you exactly how to set it and have virtually complete confidence that it will work the way it's supposed to.

      None of this is intended to dampen your enthusiasm or interest in experimenting, but you *must* get a working baseline system before you can go off into the world of experiments. So I very strongly urge you to put the pitch back to normal, set the engine up the way Randy says, and get it working. After you get some time, then you can experiment.

       Brett


p.s. BTW, I went back and looked at my notes, and as a point of interest, my last PA40 setup, after years of fiddling, is essentially identical to what Randy recommends, and recommended at the time. Now, that was before the UL version but as near as I can tell they run about the same. The pipe length and pitch were certainly not in debate! This was about 15 years ago, but the laws of physics haven't changed much since 1995. I also think my little buddy/WC Team Member Derek ran essentially the same on the engine I sold his dad, when he gave me a run for my money at the 2006 NATs.

   There is one thing I did slightly differently but I think it's a complication you don't need at this point.

Offline Derek Barry

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 2830
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #70 on: April 28, 2010, 01:43:11 PM »
"I also think my little buddy/WC Team Member Derek ran essentially the same on the engine I sold his dad, when he gave me a run for my money at the 2006 NATs. "

  Yes, I loved my little PA 40 (weenie motor as "The Bear" would say). I used it for three years in my Staris. Once I found the right prop and rpm I never had to change anything.  We lost all of our notes but I think I ran a 3.8 x 11.5 2 blade at between 10,600 and 10,800 rpm. I could be a little off but I think that is right. I got the best performance out of my plane at a 5.1 lap time.

steven yampolsky

  • Guest
  • Trade Count: (0)
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #71 on: April 28, 2010, 02:50:14 PM »
      These are symptoms of either the wrong tipweight or incorrect rudder/leadout positioning or a tweak (both problems are on hard outside corners).

I know your grandpa builds them straight as a board and I know you are a good learner but just to be sure: measure distance from the stab(not elevator) to the wing trailing edge(not flap) near stab tips. use long L shaped rulers. Make sure it's the same.

steven yampolsky

  • Guest
  • Trade Count: (0)
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #72 on: April 28, 2010, 03:33:49 PM »
1)  The prop I am using is a Bolly 11.8-3.8.  I repitched it to about 4.75 today for more speed.  Will try that out hopefully tomorrow.

Nice!!! Move the pipe in and you'll be hauling 4.7/lap!!! Crazy corner territory!  LL~  LL~

2)  The line length is 64 feet 8 1/4 inches.  The length may or may not be shortened.

Yikes!!! Add ~30" of wingspan and you are at 67"!!! That's loooong for that bird size and weight. As a general rule of thumb, assuming typical stunt model size and speed, cuting 1.5 feet of line will give you about .1 laps speed improvement. but this is secondary to the real benefit of shorter lines: more precise steering and better wind handling.

Take 100' tape with you next time to the field, measure 64" from the center of the handle to the center of the model. cut excess line. you'll thank me!

3)  The cg is in the right place per the plans.  I may have to turn the landing gear around to get it swept back instead of swept foward.

Matt, there is easy way to figure out where landing gear should be. I believe it was Ted Fancher(or was it Brett Buck???) who wrote that after years of experemintation, The most optimal landing gear position is at 15 degrees forward of the CG. This is how you figure the position:

1) Draw wing centerline(or use a masking tape) forward of wing leading line
2) mock mount landing gear and measure the distance from the wing center line to the bottom of the wheels.
3) multiply that distance by 0.26795(formula is 1/tan(90-15)). measure that distance from the CG location forward on the wing center line
4) The wheel of the landing gear should be located at that distance.

I hope this makes sense.

5)  I haven't sealed the hinge lines, although they do have about as tight a hingle line as you can get without sealing them.  I'll probably seal them in the near future

This could be the reason for your funny behavior. I am yet to see a model where taping of  hinge lines did not improve handling and consistency. My Chipmunk required a lot of concentration to steer precisely. Carbon Cardinal would fall out in at 45 degrees in square maneuvers and the Red Cardinal had very mushy corners. All were cured by taping hinge lines! At this point, I don't even bother flying new models without tape. Trimming a model requires balancing of MANY variables, eliminating one will make the process a lot easier. The point I am trying to make is "MATT, TAPE THOSE HINGELINES!!!"  ;D


Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #73 on: April 28, 2010, 04:15:09 PM »
     None of this is intended to dampen your enthusiasm or interest in experimenting, but you *must* get a working baseline system before you can go off into the world of experiments. So I very strongly urge you to put the pitch back to normal, set the engine up the way Randy says, and get it working. After you get some time, then you can experiment.

p.s. BTW, I went back and looked at my notes, and as a point of interest, my last PA40 setup, after years of fiddling, is essentially identical to what Randy recommends, and recommended at the time. Now, that was before the UL version but as near as I can tell they run about the same. The pipe length and pitch were certainly not in debate! This was about 15 years ago, but the laws of physics haven't changed much since 1995. I also think my little buddy/WC Team Member Derek ran essentially the same on the engine I sold his dad, when he gave me a run for my money at the 2006 NATs.

   There is one thing I did slightly differently but I think it's a complication you don't need at this point.

Not at all Brett!  I actually found the post very interesting and informative!!!  I'm hoping by Saturday, I'll be able to try out the new setup, and it should be great.

And Brett, now that you mention it, I did have to turn the needle quite a bit to get it at 10600RPM, after a little more than 10 grand, I remember I had to really turn that needle.  Hopefully not anymore, since I'm doing just what Randy says.

Matt Colan

Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #74 on: April 28, 2010, 04:27:51 PM »
Nice!!! Move the pipe in and you'll be hauling 4.7/lap!!! Crazy corner territory!  LL~  LL~

I've seen on the video that grandpa took, that the sucker really does have a GREAT corner, and I can even tell from my point of view, the thing really turns.

Yikes!!! Add ~30" of wingspan and you are at 67"!!! That's loooong for that bird size and weight. As a general rule of thumb, assuming typical stunt model size and speed, cuting 1.5 feet of line will give you about .1 laps speed improvement. but this is secondary to the real benefit of shorter lines: more precise steering and better wind handling.

Take 100' tape with you next time to the field, measure 64" from the center of the handle to the center of the model. cut excess line. you'll thank me!

Well, we do think that I'll wind up taking some line length out, but I don't want to change too many things at once, without first finding out what the changes I already made to it will do.

Matt, there is easy way to figure out where landing gear should be. I believe it was Ted Fancher(or was it Brett Buck???) who wrote that after years of experemintation, The most optimal landing gear position is at 15 degrees forward of the CG. This is how you figure the position:

1) Draw wing centerline(or use a masking tape) forward of wing leading line
2) mock mount landing gear and measure the distance from the wing center line to the bottom of the wheels.
3) multiply that distance by 0.26795(formula is 1/tan(90-15)). measure that distance from the CG location forward on the wing center line
4) The wheel of the landing gear should be located at that distance.

I hope this makes sense.

There is even an easier way!!!  I think it was Windy's bench trimming video, and he says if you nose the plane over, and it stays in that nosed over position.  Then all you should do is touch the tail, and the plane should drop back back onto it's tail.  At least that is a good starting point, without having to measure for the measure of degrees, according to Windy.  But the Ted Fancher or Brett Buck way is actually pretty easy.

I have noticed that I am getting the hang of landing the plane without bouncing it, 3 flights two days ago that I didn't bounce the landing.

This could be the reason for your funny behavior. I am yet to see a model where taping of  hinge lines did not improve handling and consistency. My Chipmunk required a lot of concentration to steer precisely. Carbon Cardinal would fall out in at 45 degrees in square maneuvers and the Red Cardinal had very mushy corners. All were cured by taping hinge lines! At this point, I don't even bother flying new models without tape. Trimming a model requires balancing of MANY variables, eliminating one will make the process a lot easier. The point I am trying to make is "MATT, TAPE THOSE HINGELINES!!!"  ;D

We are probably going to tape the hingelines tomorrow... H^^



« Last Edit: April 28, 2010, 04:57:57 PM by Matt Colan »
Matt Colan

Offline Howard Rush

  • 22 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 7813
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #75 on: April 28, 2010, 04:56:21 PM »
Yep, tape the hinge lines before trimming. 
The Jive Combat Team
Making combat and stunt great again

Online Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13751
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #76 on: April 28, 2010, 07:44:11 PM »
Yes, I loved my little PA 40 (weenie motor as "The Bear" would say).

 Weenie motor?  This from the very last Fox 35 holdout!?  If a piped 40 is a weenie, the Fox is a Vienna sausage.

   Brett

Offline Howard Rush

  • 22 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 7813
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #77 on: April 28, 2010, 08:45:09 PM »
Reminds me of when the other guys were making fun of P. T.'s Magnum .36 and my VF .40.

They say that size matters
And our engines are wee,
But Nature's been good
To the ol' JCT.
The Jive Combat Team
Making combat and stunt great again

Online Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13751
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #78 on: April 28, 2010, 09:09:56 PM »
Reminds me of when the other guys were making fun of P. T.'s Magnum .36 and my VF .40.

   Guess none of those guys went to the 2005 NATs, eh? Or 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, or 98, either.

     Brett

Online Brett Buck

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 13751
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #79 on: April 28, 2010, 09:18:16 PM »
5)  I haven't sealed the hinge lines, although they do have about as tight a hingle line as you can get without sealing them.  I'll probably seal them in the near future

    D'OH!  Missed that one!  Lots of people can build tight hinge lines, but the gap is still larger than an air molecule. Actually, the tighter you make it, the more critical it is to seal, since a .001 difference from side to side on a .010 gap is a 10% difference, and the .001 difference on a .060 gap is only 1.6%. Making it the same on each side is FAR more critical than making it small. That's the real advantage to sealing it up, it ensures that you don't get any differential lift from side to side or as the control surface moves.

   And even a teeny gap makes a huge difference. I will dig up Frank Williams' wind tunnel plot. He can make the gap really small, too.

     Brett

Offline PJ Rowland

  • AUS - 29541 AMA - 809970
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 2058
  • Melbourne - AUSTRALIA
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #80 on: April 28, 2010, 11:35:18 PM »
I run 7 " pitch on my .81
If you always put limit on everything you do, physical or anything else. It will spread into your work and into your life. There are no limits. There are only plateaus, and you must not stay there, you must go beyond them.” - Bruce Lee.

...
 I Yearn for a world where chickens can cross the road without having their motives questioned.

Offline Derek Barry

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • ******
  • Posts: 2830
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #81 on: April 29, 2010, 05:15:57 AM »
Weenie motor?  This from the very last Fox 35 holdout!?  If a piped 40 is a weenie, the Fox is a Vienna sausage.

   Brett
;D

Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #82 on: April 29, 2010, 04:11:28 PM »
I sealed the hinge lines today.  Hopefully enough water will have receded to where he can fly.  And besides grandpa is absolutely dying to fly his new restored airplane!!! H^^
Matt Colan

Offline john e. holliday

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 22777
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #83 on: April 30, 2010, 07:59:09 AM »
I have been reading Ted's article or the "Doctor" and the "Intern".  In his portion about bench trimming he states that if you used cloth hinges on the stab/elevator it is okay.  If not, used pinned hinges, seal the gap no matter how close it is.   Glad you are going ahead with sealing the hinge lines. H^^
John E. "DOC" Holliday
10421 West 56th Terrace
Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.

Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now she's been flown!)
« Reply #84 on: April 30, 2010, 03:25:31 PM »
I got good news and bad news.  I'll start off with the good news.

All the changes I made, and setting the motor up Randy says, had it flying brilliantly!!!  Lap times went from 5.4 to 5.1, and I could get an hourglass out of the plane now, and it had solid tension everywhere.  Basically if I were to design a plane, it would be based on the aerodynamics of this plane!

Now the bad news.  On the 3rd flight, and flight number 10 on the plane, I started doing outside loops.  Now just as I started the loops, I either hit an air pocket, or the wind made an IMMEDIATE 180 shift because I lost all line tension and she pancaked in inverted.  The plane is now in 5 pieces, everything forward of the stab, the stab and elevator, and two pieces of the rudder.  My mother heard the plane go in, the familiar thud even to a non stunt flyer, and she thought I was going to have a coniption.

Just so you know, I am determined, whether it kills me or not, I'm fixing the plane.  Hopefully by next week, we'll have the tail back together and I can start refinishing that section of the plane.

Matt Colan

Offline Claudio Chacon

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Captain
  • *****
  • Posts: 697
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #85 on: April 30, 2010, 04:35:38 PM »
Very sorry to hear that, Matt. :(
I'm sure she'll be in the air again soon.
Just take it easy....

Best of luck with the repairing job!

Kind regards,
Claudio.

Offline Randy Powell

  • 21 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 10478
  • TreeTop Flyer
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #86 on: April 30, 2010, 05:24:54 PM »
Well, that's too bad. I have a vivid memory of the bellcrank packing it in in the middle of the vertical 8 on my great flying Ringmaster Deluxe. But I splatted on the pavement. Just confetti left.

Good luck on the repair. Sounds as if it was working really well.
Member in good standing of P.I.S.T
(Politically Incorrect Stunt Team)
AMA 67711
 Randy Powell

Offline Mark Scarborough

  • 2015
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 5918
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #87 on: April 30, 2010, 05:33:20 PM »
Matt,
its always sad to have an incident.
But as Pat Johnston says,, every situation is an oppurtunity to learn and progress, so here ya go,, it can come back better, or at the least as good!
For years the rat race had me going around in circles, Now I do it for fun!
EXILED IN PULLMAN WA
AMA 842137

Offline Randy Ryan

  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 1767
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #88 on: April 30, 2010, 06:23:49 PM »
That's a drag Matt, but usually repairs are easier then they look at first. Hang in the!
Randy Ryan <><
AMA 8500
SAM 36 BO all my own M's

ChrisSarnowski

  • Guest
  • Trade Count: (0)
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #89 on: April 30, 2010, 10:11:35 PM »
Sorry to hear about the crash, Matt. Hang in there, I'm sure you can get her back together.

-Chris

Offline Bill Little

  • 2017
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 12671
  • Second in COMMAND
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #90 on: April 30, 2010, 11:46:45 PM »
Hi Matt,

I'm so sorry to hear of the accident, but I know you will have it back in the air soon!  Just make sure everything goes back together straight.  Take the extra time to make sure all the alignments are good.  And now that you have a good starting set up on the powertrain, you will be good to go!

I crashed my Werwage inline "Little Junar" about a month before the '96 NATS.  I rushed the repairs, and needless to say, it was not a good NATS for me.  Lesson learned! ;D

Big Bear
Big Bear <><

Aberdeen, NC

James Hylton Motorsports/NASCAR/ARCA

AMA 95351 (got one of my old numbers back! ;D )

Trying to get by

Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #91 on: May 01, 2010, 05:42:17 AM »
last night, the plane went from 5 pieces, to 6 pieces (we had to separate the tail into two), back to 5 pieces, and we glued the stab and elevator back together, so it's now in 4 pieces.  The crash, from the stress of doing 50mph to 0 bent the control horn, actually quite a bit, so it took us about 25 minutes to straighten it.  The rear of the fuse went back together extremely easily, easier than I thought it would.  The rudder is in two pieces, and we test fitted that a couple times last night, and that is going to be glued back together tonight.

The stab is going to take a little while, since it broke in two, we had to cut away a bunch of the sheeting, so we need to resheet the center section of the stab.

It is definitely not in bad shape, I just hope that I can blend the refinish in that section, and hopefully it won't gain any weight (grandpa says the tail is going to be lighter, I have no clue how we're going to do that).  If all goes well, I'm hoping by maybe mid May, I can start flying it again, I'm just going to have to let grandpa do some of the refinishing in the tail, because I'm going to have school 5 days a week, and on the weekends I usually have a baseball game on Saturday.  So with my schedule, it wouldn't be done before Brodak, but it will be done, just need a new prop from Randy.

Bill, that Junar that you said you had at the 96 Nats, was it red and black???

Edit:  This is the first time I've crashed, I lasted 5 years without crashing.  Oh well, I knew it was going to happen sooner or later, I just wish it wouldn't happen with this plane...

« Last Edit: May 01, 2010, 06:52:14 AM by Matt Colan »
Matt Colan

Online Dennis Adamisin

  • 2019 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 4344
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #92 on: May 01, 2010, 07:02:11 AM »
Man, that is tough news.  I know you want it fying again but make sure you also take your time - dig a little deep and be thorough on your inspection & repair.  Foamies tend to crack break just outside the center reinforcement, or around the ends of the stub spars...

You talk about blending the repair - you might want to consider stripping the finish down to bare and refinishing. Aside from the fact that it will let you do a very thorough inspection, it will save you the grief of trying to blend the repair in.  Two of the Randy's (Powell and Ryan that is) have done postings on stripping finishes down to the wood.

I also think it would be prudent to send the engine to another Randy (Smith!) for an inspection - just cuz seemingly minor bumps can damage things (slightly bent shaft???) that cannot be easily seen but might give you fits when you are ready to run it again. 
Denny Adamisin
Fort Wayne, IN

As I've grown older, I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible, but pissing everyone off is a piece of cake!

Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #93 on: May 01, 2010, 07:17:18 AM »
Man, that is tough news.  I know you want it fying again but make sure you also take your time - dig a little deep and be thorough on your inspection & repair.  Foamies tend to crack break just outside the center reinforcement, or around the ends of the stub spars...

You talk about blending the repair - you might want to consider stripping the finish down to bare and refinishing. Aside from the fact that it will let you do a very thorough inspection, it will save you the grief of trying to blend the repair in.  Two of the Randy's (Powell and Ryan that is) have done postings on stripping finishes down to the wood.

I also think it would be prudent to send the engine to another Randy (Smith!) for an inspection - just cuz seemingly minor bumps can damage things (slightly bent shaft???) that cannot be easily seen but might give you fits when you are ready to run it again. 

Thanks for the info Dennis!  There is no way I am going to strip down the whole airplane and refinish it, I'm just too close to Brodak to make that feasable, and I would have to retrim again as well.  Brodak is now 45 days away, and I want this plane flying in 3 weeks or less.  I got a long road ahead of me...
Matt Colan

Offline Paul Taylor

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 6070
  • If God is your Co-pilot - swap seats!
    • Our Local CL Web Page
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #94 on: May 01, 2010, 09:24:15 AM »
Sorry to hear about your plane Matt. I know you are determined to get this plane going and I am sure it will be ready and sitting on wheels before Brodaks.
Paul
AMA 842917

Tight Lines = Fun Times

Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #95 on: May 01, 2010, 10:13:14 AM »
Grandpa just called me, and he says that he already replanked the stab, and he is now going to strip it.  It's getting there...

Matt Colan

Eric Viglione

  • Guest
  • Trade Count: (0)
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #96 on: May 01, 2010, 11:19:42 AM »
Man I know that sucks... I'm just pulling mine off the paint stand to assemble it and your story makes me a little weak at the knee's just hearing it.

Well, there's always a silver lining to these things, now you can fly it like you stole it, since it's already had it's first ding (yeah, I know, an understatement).

Really sorry to hear it Matt, but I'm rooting for you and your pitt crew. I know you'll be good to go by Brodaks.

EricV

Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #97 on: May 01, 2010, 05:48:57 PM »
I went over to grandpa's earlier today, and he had already resheeted the stab.  when I head over in 10 minutes, we're going to strip the rest of the covering off the stab and elevator.  maybe glue the rudder back together.  I'll let you know what I get done tomorrow...

Matt Colan

Offline Matt Colan

  • N-756355
  • AMA Member
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 3456
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #98 on: May 01, 2010, 08:27:09 PM »
Now I know how the tail is going to be lighter!!!  While I'm at school, grandpa is going to cut out the elevators, and rib them.  The whole stab and elevator assembly weighs 3.6 ounces, and I took 1/10oz off sanding the elevators down.  Tomorrow, I'm hoping to get the opportunity to post a pic or two???  Not sure, but I'll try...

Matt Colan

Offline john e. holliday

  • 24 supporter
  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Admiral
  • *
  • Posts: 22777
Re: She's ready to fly! (and now I need to repair her)
« Reply #99 on: May 02, 2010, 07:18:41 AM »
Matt;  I think someone has just posted it earlier,  "Don't rush it".  Take your time putting it back together and do it right.  I hope you have a back up plane and if you do that is the one I would be getting practice on while working on the damaged plane.  Again don't push it. H^^
John E. "DOC" Holliday
10421 West 56th Terrace
Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530  Have fun as I have and I am still breaking a record.


Advertise Here
Tags:
 


Advertise Here