Author Topic: ACRO-60 BUILDING SEQUENCE PHOTOS (Read 7185 times)

Ted Winterman · « **on:** March 29, 2009, 09:46:22 AM »

Wing covered in silk and mounted in fusalage. Zero degrees indicated on gauges. Triangular stock for vibration transfer and strenght at
fuseselage/wing juncture. Lower filler block with lightening holes installed.

James Mills · « **Reply #1 on:** March 29, 2009, 01:24:41 PM »

Ted,

Great looking work as usual. What power are you planning?

James

john e. holliday · « **Reply #2 on:** March 29, 2009, 03:04:22 PM »

Great idea on triangle stock on wing/fuselage joint. I usually use glass and epoxy at front of wing/fuselage joint. Looking great on the build. DOC Holliday

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #3 on:** March 29, 2009, 06:03:54 PM »

Hi James and Dock

Thanks for the compliments. I will using an ST60 with plastic tank. Projected weight will be about 47 ounces less fuel. My
calculations are about 647sq in. I will have more pics to completion of color.

Ted

RC Storick · « **Reply #4 on:** March 29, 2009, 06:14:15 PM »

Quote from: Ted Winterman on March 29, 2009, 06:03:54 PM

Hi James and Dock

Thanks for the compliments. I will using an ST60 with plastic tank. Projected weight will be about 47 ounces less fuel. My
calculations are about 647sq in. I will have more pics to completion of color.

Ted

Ted don't you know Light planes don't fly well?

WhittleN · « **Reply #5 on:** March 30, 2009, 10:59:38 AM »

Tank I mean Ted
Will the Tank be removed, disassembled and cleaned after every flying session?

Your old flying buddy Norm

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #6 on:** March 30, 2009, 04:35:21 PM »

Norm,

Great to hear from you. How are you and your family? Are you grey haird yet?

No, the tank will not be cleaned and flushed out after every flight. I have been using the same plastic tank for the last six or seven
years. I back-flush the tank filter after about 25-30 flights. Have you learned how to build light yet?

Where are you living now?

Your OLDER flying buddy, Ted

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #7 on:** April 08, 2009, 09:56:21 AM »

These photos show stabilizer/elevator construction and covering with heavy weight silk. Total weight is 1.8 oz. with 4 heavy coats of dope,
hinges and control horn plus .015 carbon fiber on stab leading/trailing edge. 30 in. span, 7.5" root chord and 5.5" tip chord.

James Mills · « **Reply #8 on:** April 08, 2009, 11:44:46 AM »

Ted,

Looks good. What type of finish do you plan to use? Any chance you'll make it down for the clinic/fun fly in May?

James

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #9 on:** April 08, 2009, 03:45:51 PM »

Hi James,

Good to hear from you. The finish I will be using is Klass Kote epoxy. Not sure of the colors yet. Thinking about blur/grey two tone
with yellow trim and red lettering, silver canopy.

Ted

James Mills · « **Reply #10 on:** April 08, 2009, 04:37:42 PM »

Quote from: Ted Winterman on April 08, 2009, 03:45:51 PM

Hi James,

Good to hear from you. The finish I will be using is Klass Kote epoxy. Not sure of the colors yet. Thinking about blur/grey two tone
with yellow trim and red lettering, silver canopy.

Ted

Ted,

I'm sure it will look good when finished. How about the clinic in May?

James

James Mills · « **Reply #11 on:** April 08, 2009, 06:50:40 PM »

Ted,

Good hunting, have a safe trip.

James

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #12 on:** April 09, 2009, 08:30:52 PM »

1 Bottom sheeting with opposite grain step to support but-joint of sheeting pieces.

2 Bottom sheeting installed with removable tail wheel anchor platform exposed.

3 Pushrod and stabilizer squared up/leveled and mounted.

4 Stabilizer mounting completed. Flap and elevator hinges are still removable at this stage.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #13 on:** April 11, 2009, 06:18:51 AM »

That is looking better each time I look at this post. DOC Holliday

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #14 on:** April 11, 2009, 09:54:16 AM »

Thank you John. Hope these pix will help someone.

Ted

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #15 on:** April 12, 2009, 11:53:24 AM »

Views of flap/elevator pushrod hook-up using ball-links. They give very smooth control movements. On elevator horn, I used a little JB
weld to strengthen up the weld joint. Pushrods on flap/elevator horn are alternated each side to possibly even up any lateral torque.

45 degree notches on top corners of bulkheads are for triangular stock which will extend up about 1/8th inch to hold sides of 3/32 inch
sides of formed turtle deck.

Michael Floerchinger · « **Reply #16 on:** April 13, 2009, 11:21:57 AM »

Looking good Ted!!!

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #17 on:** April 14, 2009, 11:42:01 AM »

1. Rear deck frame work with bulkhead lightening holes. Top longeron raised high enough to sand on the angle for the top deck skin which is
3/32 inch thick. Note 1/4 inch triangular balsa strip raised 1/8 inch above top edge of fusalage side to hold bottom of deck skin.

2. Rear supports for verticle fin. After deck skin is on, slot will be cut for verticle fin to be lowered and contact top of stabilizer. 1/8 inch square balsa strips on top of stabilizer will hold bottom of deck skin.

WhittleN · « **Reply #18 on:** April 14, 2009, 01:58:19 PM »

Hi Ted
I'm in Utah, flying with the famous Gordan Delaney (Pathfinder designer), John Miller (too many designs to list) and Jim Rhoads. I'm building a new Eagle with a Stalker 76 hope to have it painted this week-end.

Norm

Randy Powell · « **Reply #19 on:** April 14, 2009, 02:38:41 PM »

So, Mr. Whittle, will this new marvel be at the Regionals this year along with your own august presence?

RC Storick · « **Reply #20 on:** April 14, 2009, 05:38:24 PM »

Ted I noticed you were using incidence meeter's. What Ron has come up with is a point to point to point gage. He took a Tee Square to a surface plate and layout shop and had them machine a piece of aluminum on one end. About 25 holes drilled into it in different locations. You bolt it to your prop hub and thats Zero. Then the square is running down the side of the fuse. You take a machinists rule and measure up from there to wing center and stab center.

The square was set up plus or minus 2 thousands and my engine and wings and stab are 1/64 plus or minus almost not measurable. So pretty close. Next plane I am checking I will show the most accurate way to measure the thrust line I have seen to date.

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #21 on:** April 14, 2009, 07:43:25 PM »

Norm,

Good to hear from you again. I have a couple Eagle pictures from when you were in ST. Louis. I know your new one will be great looking
and flying the same. Please post some pictures. Say hello to your family.

Ted

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #22 on:** April 16, 2009, 07:37:55 PM »

These two pictures display canopy pin lock-up. I try to interlock parts when I can. It increases strength and reduces stress risers.

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #23 on:** April 19, 2009, 08:28:56 AM »

This is the completed canopy. I used firm wood. The starting weight was one ounce. Finished weight was 9 grams.

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #24 on:** April 20, 2009, 06:38:53 PM »

1. Top block canopy layout lines.

2. Shaped and hollowed top block. Recesses cut for blind mounting nuts and engine crankcase.

3. Canopy pin and canopy before glue application.

Triangular shaped wood on side of fuslage at wing joint was the cut-out to allow wing/flap horn to be slid into fusalage.

Richard Grogan · « **Reply #25 on:** April 20, 2009, 11:40:56 PM »

Nice craftsmanship Ted! Good photo coverage as well.

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #26 on:** April 21, 2009, 06:28:39 AM »

Richard,

Thank you! Weather up here has been cold and windy too long. It gets a person ( ME ) out of the mood to get things done and out
flying.

Ted

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #27 on:** April 22, 2009, 07:34:53 PM »

All bare wood, fusalage/cowel/flaps/rudder are covered with 00 silkspan paper and clear epoxy paint a section at a time and squeegeed through
with a paper towel to absorb extra epoxy to save weight. I let it cure overnight and do a second coat the same way. This is the base for
primer, and then sanded down to the paper with 280 and 4oo open coat no load silicone/carbide paper. Sanding stops when there is a transparent foggy look to the paper. At that point is when epoxy paint finish is applied.

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #28 on:** April 28, 2009, 06:05:00 AM »

These are rather basic building photos of my style of cowel construction. One cap screw holds cowel in place. Cowel locator pins in
front and 1/4 inch square balsa locators in rear. Last three photos show cowel in primer ready for sanding.

Michael Floerchinger · « **Reply #29 on:** April 28, 2009, 06:28:53 AM »

Great craftmanship Ted!

I will have to get out to the park and check out its flight.

Mike

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #30 on:** April 29, 2009, 04:34:28 PM »

My method for insuring hinges stay in place is to use a leather punch for additional holes to allow for more epoxy bonding into the trailing
edges/leading edges of control surfaces. If you use 1/4 sq. on wing trailing edges, make sure you put 1/4 sq. x 3/4 in. long balsa where hinge
will insert into wing trailing edge for the extra punched out hinge holes.

Allan Perret · « **Reply #31 on:** April 29, 2009, 05:17:57 PM »

Quote from: Ted Winterman on April 08, 2009, 09:56:21 AM

These photos show stabilizer/elevator construction and covering with heavy weight silk. Total weight is 1.8 oz. with 4 heavy coats of dope,
hinges and control horn plus .015 carbon fiber on stab leading/trailing edge. 30 in. span, 7.5" root chord and 5.5" tip chord.

Why would you not use the same rib patterns in the stab and elevator.

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #32 on:** April 29, 2009, 07:07:02 PM »

Allen,

Thanks for the reply. The rib pattern on the stabilizer was incorporated for less flex and more twist resistance. The ribs are 3/32 inch thick.
They are interlocked at the intersections. The ribs on the elevators are 1/16 inch thick and tapered from 3/8 to 1/8 inch thick at the
trailing edge. It was my intension to save as much weight a possible towards tail of the plane. Actually, the original stabilizer was the same
but was sheeted with 1/16 wood. I decided it was too heavy and built the X rib stabilizer and saved about 3/4 ounces. I hope this answers
your question.

Ted

Allan Perret · « **Reply #33 on:** April 30, 2009, 07:26:28 AM »

Quote from: Ted Winterman on April 29, 2009, 07:07:02 PM

Allen,

Thanks for the reply. The rib pattern on the stabilizer was incorporated for less flex and more twist resistance. The ribs are 3/32 inch thick.
They are interlocked at the intersections. The ribs on the elevators are 1/16 inch thick and tapered from 3/8 to 1/8 inch thick at the
trailing edge. It was my intension to save as much weight a possible towards tail of the plane. Actually, the original stabilizer was the same
but was sheeted with 1/16 wood. I decided it was too heavy and built the X rib stabilizer and saved about 3/4 ounces. I hope this answers
your question.

Take a look at the rib pattern in the elevators on my Magnum. Just a simple 60 degree triangle. This is the rib pattern that I felt offered the best compromise of minimum wood and torsional rigidity. I also like it the most from an appearance standpoint. I am wondering how it compares to your x rib pattern in torsion, do you know?

Funny how I now realize that I did the same as you by using 2 different patterns in the flaps and elevators. I plan to use same patterns on any future projects where the ribs are visible.

Did you make any kind of jig or special tool to cut all the notches in your x pattern ribs? Got any pictures of that?

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #34 on:** April 30, 2009, 10:59:51 AM »

Hi Allan,

On the stabilizer, I used the X rib system from various articles and research from past articles and gut feeling. I cant provide you
with any math of physics. There is also .015 thick carbon fiber on the stab trailing/leading edge for extra strength. I did not have a jig.
It was all eye-balled and marked, then notched. Stab was tapered to the trailing edge using the rod method. I used the rib spaceing from my
last design. It worked very well.
Your plane looks very good. The color is well done.

Ted

RC Storick · « **Reply #35 on:** April 30, 2009, 11:06:29 AM »

Quote from: Allan Perret on April 30, 2009, 07:26:28 AM

Take a look at the rib pattern in the elevators on my Magnum. Just a simple 60 degree triangle. This is the rib pattern that I felt offered the best compromise of minimum wood and torsional rigidity. I also like it the most from an appearance standpoint. I am wondering how it compares to your x rib pattern in torsion, do you know?

Funny how I now realize that I did the same as you by using 2 different patterns in the flaps and elevators. I plan to use same patterns on any future projects where the ribs are visible.

Did you make any kind of jig or special tool to cut all the notches in your x pattern ribs? Got any pictures of that?

X ribbing is by far stronger. Point to point is shorter so it has to be stronger with less wood.

Allan Perret · « **Reply #36 on:** April 30, 2009, 02:51:12 PM »

Quote from: Robert Storick on April 30, 2009, 11:06:29 AM

X ribbing is by far stronger. Point to point is shorter so it has to be stronger with less wood.

I was thinking the notches in the ribs would have a negative effect on the strength, maybe not..

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #37 on:** April 30, 2009, 03:43:09 PM »

Only until they're glued together--fragile while handling/constructing; very strong when assembled.

My rib with two notches--a double "x".

The finished wing--trying to twist it is like twisting a 2/4!

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #38 on:** April 30, 2009, 06:20:33 PM »

These are the rudder sections before assembly, shaping, and 00 silkspan paper application. Rudder slot waiting for insertion.

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #39 on:** May 03, 2009, 09:17:21 AM »

Well, this one is getting close to the finish line. Assembled airplane without fillet material applied. Elevator/Flaps not yet
permanently set. Final finish I estimate to be 2 ounces or less. I will keep close watch and keep you posted as to final weight.

Ted

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #40 on:** May 04, 2009, 08:14:11 AM »

Fillet material was applied in small globs and dragged along with finger dipped in water/alcohol to get a small radius. Sparky lent
me some of this epoxy and it sands very well. Very light and strong. Check with Sparky where to find it.

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #41 on:** May 05, 2009, 07:49:50 PM »

These views are of the fusalage, rudder, cowel, and fairings/fillets in 4 coats of K&B Super Poxy primer. Rotating sanding rod makes
it easy to get to certain areas. The flaps in primer are removable at this stage. Only tip ends are primered and will be sanded.

Ted

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #42 on:** May 07, 2009, 06:40:48 AM »

These photos show the final primer sanding of fillets and 00 silkspan on the bare wood before epoxy paint application. There was 4 heavy coats of primer to help fill high/low spots. 2 1/2 ounces of primer came off. High and low areas show up on fillets.

Ted

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #43 on:** May 07, 2009, 08:28:29 PM »

This is the final fitting of all parts and components before color is applied. Weight at this stage is 41 1/2 OZ. Hopefully, ready to
fly weight less fuel will be under 48 OZ.

Ted

john e. holliday · « **Reply #44 on:** May 08, 2009, 08:51:35 AM »

Looking great. If you don't slow down your going to be done before I am with my planes. DOC Holliday

Ted Winterman · « **Reply #45 on:** May 08, 2009, 09:12:22 AM »

Thanks John. Hope to see you and your planes this summer.

Ted