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  • December 09, 2018, 05:57:35 PM

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Author Topic: Sakitumi  (Read 1853 times)

Online John Rist

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Sakitumi
« on: February 18, 2017, 08:57:58 AM »
Just got am eMail from Walter that my Sakitumi  will ship soon.  #^  I suspect this means he is in the process of cutting Sakitumi kits.  If you want one it might be a good time to give him a call  and see if he has extras for sale.

Walter's email is:    builtrightflyright@builtrightflyright.com
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi weight box
« Reply #1 on: September 17, 2018, 07:40:32 AM »
The Sakitumi plan doesn't show what to use for a cover for the weight box, and there doesn't seem to be a cover included. Do I make a cover from balsa (or plywood)?  Does the weight box mount so the cover will be flush to the bottom surface of the wing? I suppose that a blind nut should be mounted in the back side of the weight box so that a machine screw can be used to retain the cover?

Thanks

Dave
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Online mike londke

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #2 on: September 17, 2018, 08:08:09 AM »
Pretty sure mine had a laser cut plywood cover with a hole for the bolt, it was in one of the plywood carriers. Yes, it mounts flush. Yes, blindnut to secure.
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #3 on: September 17, 2018, 08:21:18 AM »
If the part with the hole is the cover, then it doesn't have the opposite side. What is supposed to be used for the opposite side?  There are only plywood parts for 5 sides .

Dave
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Online John Rist

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Re: Sakitumi weight box
« Reply #4 on: September 17, 2018, 08:23:29 AM »
The Sakitumi plan doesn't show what to use for a cover for the weight box, and there doesn't seem to be a cover included. Do I make a cover from balsa (or plywood)?  Does the weight box mount so the cover will be flush to the bottom surface of the wing? I suppose that a blind nut should be mounted in the back side of the weight box so that a machine screw can be used to retain the cover?

Thanks

Dave

The weight box that came with mine had 6 peices.  4 sides, top, and bottom.  I used a blind nut in the bottom and a 4-40 screw through the top to hold on the lid.  I mounted it per the wing plan with the lid agents the bottom wing tip sheeting.  The bottom sheeting is glued to the lid of the the weigh box and is cut out to become part of the weight box.   All pretty much standard for any weight box I have ever installed.  If A lid didn't come with your weight box it's gotten lost some wheres along the way.  I would make a plywood top using the bottom as a pattern.
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #5 on: September 17, 2018, 08:32:20 AM »
Thanks John.  Just what I needed to know. 

Dave
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Offline Roger Vizioli

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2018, 09:23:56 AM »
Dave,
check your private messages,

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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #7 on: September 20, 2018, 12:24:42 PM »
Thanks John & Roger. It's finished now, and some photos are attached.  A piece of tube was pressed onto a 4-40 blind nut and mounted from the bottom of the box.  The tube should help align the machine screw when placing the cover.  A 1/4" thick piece of balsa was attached over the cover, and then sanded to the shape of the wing.  Space was milled into the balsa to accommodate the head of the 4-40 screw where the balsa attaches to the cover.  This captures the screw head so the cover comes up when the screw is loosened. The hole in the balsa above the screw is smaller than the screw head, but sufficient to pass a screw driver.

Thanks!

Dave
Dave Nyce   Apex, NC 
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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #8 on: September 20, 2018, 12:55:06 PM »
Question 1 - Regarding the Electric Sakitumi adjustable leadout guide: (see the attached photo) what is that rectangular part near the aft edge of the adjustable leadout? (marked #1 in photo)

Question 2 - It looks like the shear spar has to be cut out to allow the front end of the adjustable leadout guide to go inside the leading edge compartment. Is that correct?

Thanks!
Dave Nyce   Apex, NC 
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #9 on: September 20, 2018, 12:56:40 PM »
In looking at it again, I think #1 is just showing the slot edge inside the leadout guide.

Dave
Dave Nyce   Apex, NC 
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Online John Rist

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #10 on: September 20, 2018, 05:16:06 PM »
Question 1 - Regarding the Electric Sakitumi adjustable leadout guide: (see the attached photo) what is that rectangular part near the aft edge of the adjustable leadout? (marked #1 in photo)

Question 2 - It looks like the shear spar has to be cut out to allow the front end of the adjustable leadout guide to go inside the leading edge compartment. Is that correct?

Thanks!

You are correct on item #1.  Item #2 I am not sure.  All of the parts were lazier cut and I don't remember having to modify anything that much to get it to all to fit.  My lead-out guide is located per the plans.  Also are you aware that in the "Gettin all AMP'ed up" section there is a ton of photos from the prototype build of the  Electric "SAKITUMI" prototype.  I do remember having to open up some of the slots to allow the lead-outs to pass through the sheer web.  Go look at the pictures in the electric section.  There are many and they are good.   If you search in the electric section for Sakitum al lot of info will pop up including some photos from my build
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #11 on: October 02, 2018, 04:15:38 PM »
The Sakitumi leading edge starts out as a rectangular shape, and needs an awful lot of sanding to bring it to the proper shape. Is there an easier way to do it rather than sanding?
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Offline Mike Griffin

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #12 on: October 02, 2018, 04:20:30 PM »
Dave, do you have a small razor plane?  I use that to get the rough shape and then go to the sandpaper.

Mike
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #13 on: October 02, 2018, 04:26:48 PM »
I guess I'll have to buy a razor plane.

Thanks
Dave Nyce   Apex, NC 
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Offline Dane Martin

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #14 on: October 02, 2018, 04:57:04 PM »
The Sakitumi leading edge starts out as a rectangular shape, and needs an awful lot of sanding to bring it to the proper shape. Is there an easier way to do it rather than sanding?

I mold my own leading edges vs shaping a straight piece. However, shaping a piece is easy with the right tools. Razor plane, or a long bar sander with 80 grit. Get it kinda close then switch to another long bar sander with less grit.

Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #15 on: October 03, 2018, 03:51:21 PM »
Doesn't Walter show how he does it or is his site still down. ???
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #16 on: October 04, 2018, 07:58:18 AM »
On the electric Sakitumi:  The plywood doubler that has a large number of cooling slots, does that go on the outboard side of the fuselage?  So then the plywood with only a few slots goes on the inboard side?
Dave Nyce   Apex, NC 
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Online John Rist

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #17 on: October 04, 2018, 08:38:09 AM »
On the electric Sakitumi:  The plywood doubler that has a large number of cooling slots, does that go on the outboard side of the fuselage?  So then the plywood with only a few slots goes on the inboard side?
I am not sure what you are referring to.  Mine is set up to have the battery on the outboard side.  So the doubler with the battery cut out goes on the outboard side.  The doubler with cooling slots for the battery goes on the inboard side
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #18 on: October 04, 2018, 10:50:36 AM »
The photo helps a lot.  Thanks!
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Offline Brent Williams

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #19 on: October 04, 2018, 01:49:10 PM »
I am not sure what you are referring to.  Mine is set up to have the battery on the outboard side.  So the doubler with the battery cut out goes on the outboard side.  The doubler with cooling slots for the battery goes on the inboard side

If I were building one, I would put the plywood doubler with the cooling slots on the outboard side and the battery slot doubler on the inboard side.  This way you are not relying on velcro alone to keep the battery in the plane.  With the slotted doubler on the outboard side, the battery just can not easily leave the plane in flight, as it's captured against a rigid plywood wall.  The velcro just holds it in place.  Centrifugal force on a 12oz battery at 55mph is pretty strong.  Build to suit your own preference, but I think it's safer and smarter this way.

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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #20 on: October 04, 2018, 02:04:06 PM »
Thanks Brent.  That's a good idea.  But I just finished installing it the other way.  Maybe next time.

Thanks

Dave
Dave Nyce   Apex, NC 
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #21 on: October 04, 2018, 08:10:39 PM »
In John's photo, the motor is front-mounted. Mine is rear-mounted like the plan. Is there supposed to be any balsa to fill-in behind the circular plywood motor mount? Or is the motor mount only supported in the center, the width of the fuselage?
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Offline badbill

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #22 on: October 05, 2018, 06:59:22 AM »
In John's photo, the motor is front-mounted. Mine is rear-mounted like the plan. Is there supposed to be any balsa to fill-in behind the circular plywood motor mount? Or is the motor mount only supported in the center, the width of the fuselage?

Dave,
             This post ( see below ) has both my Electric and nitro Sakitumi's. I backmounted the electric motor, Cobra 2826/10. Regardless of what you'll read, it works great and people have been doing it with outrunners on RC planes for many many years, with no problems. Mine has a well over a hundred flights now and the motor / bearings are like new. I added spruce wedges behind the engine mount on both sides. Works great.

https://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/my-new-sakitumi-glow-power/
« Last Edit: October 05, 2018, 12:36:21 PM by badbill »
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #23 on: October 05, 2018, 09:16:57 AM »
Thanks Bill.  I'll add some hardwood wedges behind the motor mount.  I was going to use a 2826/06 motor (Brodak BH-1844), but found that it would not be able to be inserted after the nose ring is installed.  It looks like your electric Sakitumi does not have the nose ring.  Maybe I'll do it that way.

Thanks

Dave
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Offline badbill

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #24 on: October 05, 2018, 12:35:41 PM »
Thanks Bill.  I'll add some hardwood wedges behind the motor mount.  I was going to use a 2826/06 motor (Brodak BH-1844), but found that it would not be able to be inserted after the nose ring is installed.  It looks like your electric Sakitumi does not have the nose ring.  Maybe I'll do it that way.

Thanks

Dave

Dave, Mine does have the nose ring. I epoxied it on after screwing the motor on. Never did add a spinner, but the one on my glow version looks so good that I may have to at a later point.
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Online John Rist

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #25 on: October 06, 2018, 06:03:34 AM »
Not sure why a noise ring would prevent removing the motor.    ???  At any rate it is important to be able to remove the motor.  You need to oil and or replace the bearings.  Also motors have been known to burn out for what ever reason.  We are running our electric motors near max power to get the performance we need.  So burnouts, although not common, can happen.   :'(   All of my front mounted and rear mounted motors are removable.
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #26 on: October 06, 2018, 08:58:57 AM »
The landing gear in the E Sakitumi drawing has 2 holes for mounting to the fuselage, but the supplied gear has 3 holes.  In order to center the holes on the hardwood block, the gear needs to be mounted about a half inch lower than in the drawing.  Or the gear can be mounted in the location shown in the drawing, with new holes drilled.  Which way is better?  If I drill new holes, is there a good way to fill the old holes so that it would still look like the aluminum?

John: With the nose ring installed, a 2826 motor is too long to slide in from the side because the motor shaft will hit the nose ring. That's why the nose ring would have to be installed after the motor is in place.  Then, to replace the motor, the nose ring would have to be cut off and then re-installed after the motor is replaced.

Thanks

Dave
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Offline badbill

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #27 on: October 06, 2018, 11:52:17 AM »
The landing gear in the E Sakitumi drawing has 2 holes for mounting to the fuselage, but the supplied gear has 3 holes.  In order to center the holes on the hardwood block, the gear needs to be mounted about a half inch lower than in the drawing.  Or the gear can be mounted in the location shown in the drawing, with new holes drilled.  Which way is better?  If I drill new holes, is there a good way to fill the old holes so that it would still look like the aluminum?

John: With the nose ring installed, a 2826 motor is too long to slide in from the side because the motor shaft will hit the nose ring. That's why the nose ring would have to be installed after the motor is in place.  Then, to replace the motor, the nose ring would have to be cut off and then re-installed after the motor is replaced.

Thanks

Dave

Dave, I drilled a third hole and used 3 bolts for my LG, but it would work fine either way. I just attached my nose ring with a drop of 5 minute epoxy on the top and bottom, if I need to remove the motor I'll just grab it and pop it off. Reglue it on when I'm done.
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #28 on: October 06, 2018, 05:15:27 PM »
Thanks for the help!

Dave
Dave Nyce   Apex, NC 
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #29 on: October 14, 2018, 02:06:11 PM »
Here is the E-Sakitumi before paint and covering. A very nice kit from Walter Umland.  The close-ups show the nose ring mounted by two 2-56 screws and washers, so it is removable for changing the motor (motor shown with temporary spacers and bolts). 
Dave Nyce   Apex, NC 
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Online John Rist

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #30 on: October 15, 2018, 01:30:31 AM »
Here is the E-Sakitumi before paint and covering. A very nice kit from Walter Umland.  The close-ups show the nose ring mounted by two 2-56 screws and washers, so it is removable for changing the motor (motor shown with temporary spacers and bolts).
For what it's worth I mounted everything on the battery side.  Keeps the wires short.  However I have good soldering skills so cutting wires to length is easy for me.
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #31 on: October 15, 2018, 06:40:55 AM »
Yes, I'm planning to do that also. Thanks.
Dave
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Offline Dave Nyce

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Re: Sakitumi
« Reply #32 on: October 17, 2018, 09:40:20 AM »
How much wing tip weight, approximately?
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