Author Topic: Rust-oleum (Read 2913 times)

Paul Allen · « **on:** January 12, 2008, 02:35:13 AM »

Guy's
Can I use Rust-oleum over a nitrate base
and do I need to use a primer.
Thanks

Bill Little · « **Reply #1 on:** January 12, 2008, 09:40:07 AM »

Quote from: paul allen on January 12, 2008, 02:35:13 AM

Guy's
Can I use Rust-oleum over a nitrate base
and do I need to use a primer.
Thanks

Hi Paul,

I would say Allen Brickhaus is our resident expert on Rustoleum. He has published a few articles explaining his use of it. If he doesn't see this soon, PM him!

I would let the Nitrate gas off as long as feasible before applying the Rustoleum. A primer would be used if you are *filling*, and wouldn't hurt in that capacity I am sure. Rustoleum is not a lacquer like Nitrate dope, it is more of the enamel family, so I would definitely NOT put any Nitrate or butyrate over the Rustoleum.

Shultzie · « **Reply #2 on:** January 12, 2008, 10:25:05 AM »

Rust-oleum.....has never really exicted me as a paint medium.
In the early 90's at our Boeing wind tunnel model shop, at the request of the engineering staff...made up some paint samples to be used at test bed samples to experiment with Rust-olem's properties:
such as adhesion , film strength, abrasion, fade resistance, stress, and most importantly, how it stands up under constant reworking...during model modifications.

Sadly....Rust-oleum failed to meet the standards in most all of the requirements needed.
However...for hobby, home use....the cost factor just might make it acceptable for a second look.
Since retirement....
I have found Rust-oleum and its wonderful ability to cover quickly and stick to about any kind of surface, virtually UNBEATABLE.
THE PERFECT MEDIUM FOR EXPRESSING ART CONCEPTS AND SHARING MY ART WITH EVERYONE IN THE GIG HARBOR COMMUNITY THROUGH MY MIDNIGHT ART-SHARING PROJECTS..

for example here in my photo attachment:

Unfortunately, just one of my latest projects that was interfered with BEFORE BEING COMPLETED.
Worst of all In order to make a quick escape and leave so quickly.... Sadly I had to leave all my beautiful colors of Rust-olem paint cans behind.

However my beautiful painting made the GIG HARBOR GATEWAY NEWSPAPER LAST WED.
Worst of all...I didn't get a chance to finish signing with my DLS initals.
PS

As you can see...RUST-OLEUM FAILED THE SAND BLAST PAINT REMOVAL TEST COMPLETELY

chuck snyder · « **Reply #3 on:** January 12, 2008, 10:48:56 AM »

Paul,
I have used Rustoleum on several models over a fiberglass epoxy base or over Solartex fabric. I have had some issues on one airplane with long-term exposure where exhaust residue hits the model. I did an adhesion test on the Solartex with (1)nitrate dope/Rustoleum (2)special primer sold by Stits/Rustoleum, and (3) straight Rustoleum. I then pressed on both Scotch tape and masking tape, then snapped the tape off (a paint industry test). In no case did I pull off any of the paint. So my experience is that you can use it over nitrate or epoxy primer. I use PPG Value-pro epoxy primer.
Chuck

don Burke · « **Reply #4 on:** January 12, 2008, 10:57:17 AM »

I found Rustoleum works fine as long as you give it enough drying time, at least a week, before doing anything else with the model.

I rushed one once and flew the airplane the next day. Some of the paint came off around the engine, but the rest stayed OK. The paint was soft after being exposed to fuel fumes and spills.

Shultzie · « **Reply #5 on:** January 12, 2008, 06:20:42 PM »

Quote from: chuck snyder on January 12, 2008, 10:48:56 AM

Paul,
I have used Rustoleum on several models over a fiberglass epoxy base or over Solartex fabric. I have had some issues on one airplane with long-term exposure where exhaust residue hits the model. I did an adhesion test on the Solartex with (1)nitrate dope/Rustoleum (2)special primer sold by Stits/Rustoleum, and (3) straight Rustoleum. I then pressed on both Scotch tape and masking tape, then snapped the tape off (a paint industry test). In no case did I pull off any of the paint. So my experience is that you can use it over nitrate or epoxy primer. I use PPG Value-pro epoxy primer.
Chuck

No kidding aside...this time. Even with the primer....It is primal' that any brand of primer including the Stits--should be compeletly dry...(whether it is heated etc..."gassin' off is the bottom line:

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #6 on:** January 12, 2008, 09:50:45 PM »

Paul...you're actually able to get Rustoleum spray enamel in Australia? Then why can't you get SIG or Brodak butyrate dope?

Don...It is hard to conceive of you getting out in the wee small hours to do giraffiti (sic). I know you're an artsy-fartsy kinda guy, but probably mostly fartsy, at your age. Next time, just spray "Hi, Randy, call me! I need a cuppa fuel." on the Jersey Barrier. Don't f'get to add your phone number.

Steve

Paul Allen · « **Reply #7 on:** January 13, 2008, 02:31:46 AM »

Steve
Yes my local paint place now stocks it.
As to Sig / Brodak dope,years ago I did buy some
Lite Cote,there was one RC supplier in another state
that carried some Sig color dope but the cost to transport
it interstate was over the top,dangerous goods!
I had E-mailed Allen B as per Bill's suggestion above and his
only reservation was on the nitrate base.
Paul Allen

Ward Van Duzer · « **Reply #8 on:** January 13, 2008, 09:16:18 AM »

Silver is (was) not fuel proof!

I've used some other rattle cans by Rust-Oleum that work fine and dry/cure much faster..."Painters Touch" by Rust-Oleum. TEST IT FIRST!

Ward

Mike Griffin · « **Reply #9 on:** January 15, 2008, 02:24:20 PM »

Hi Paul,

I have used Rustoleum over silkspan and polyspan that were prepared with nitrate dope and have had great results. I normally put several coats of 50-50 nitrate dope and nitrate thinner mixture on the plane and then use the Rustoleum gray auto primer as the last coat and sand most of that off. I then spray with whatever color Rustoleum after that. Works great.

Mike

Shultzie · « **Reply #10 on:** January 15, 2008, 03:51:53 PM »

Quote from: Mike Griffin on January 15, 2008, 02:24:20 PM

Hi Paul,

Works great.

Mike

BUTJA'GOTTA GOTTA HAVE ANY PRIMER DRY N' GASSSSSSSSSED OFF FIRST N' FORMOST!

Andrew Borgogna · « **Reply #11 on:** January 16, 2008, 04:57:01 PM »

As Mike said, seal with 50-50 nitrate dope then spray the Rustoleam. It works great, just let it dry for about 4 days to a week. I have been using it for years with very good results.
Andy

john e. holliday · « **Reply #12 on:** January 17, 2008, 07:29:43 AM »

How about the Rust-o-leum that comes in cans, not the spray cans. DOC Holliday

Andrew Borgogna · « **Reply #13 on:** January 17, 2008, 08:53:45 AM »

Doc
I have only used the black from a can once but it worked just as good as the rattle can.
Andy

George · « **Reply #14 on:** January 17, 2008, 09:28:49 AM »

I understand that Rustoleum metalics are not fuel proof. You might check before using it. My experience with Rustoleum is limited to lawn furniture.

George

Andrew Borgogna · « **Reply #15 on:** January 17, 2008, 10:01:31 AM »

George
My understanding too is the Metalics and the clear coat are not fuel proof, but I have never used either.
Andy

ray copeland · « **Reply #16 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:49:50 PM »

My experience with clear coats for my 1/2a's - KMart acrylic enamel clear in the spray can is way more fuel proof than rustoleum clear spray. I have tried both in metallics and neither were very fuelproof.

Andrew Borgogna · « **Reply #17 on:** January 17, 2008, 04:55:33 PM »

Ray
Do you know if the KMart clear is compatible with Rustoelum?
Andy

minnesotamodeler · « **Reply #18 on:** January 17, 2008, 06:49:41 PM »

Polyurethane Exterior Spar Varnish in an aerosol can is fuel proof. Good for sealing edges of iron-on film trim, too. Just a very light coat does it. I've used it over about everything with no problems.

Rustoleum Clear, and metallics, are indeed NOT fuel proof...their black is kinda suspect too, it gets a little soft when well doused. I use it but not around the engine/tank.

--Ray

Scott Jenkins · « **Reply #19 on:** January 18, 2008, 10:14:58 AM »

Guys,
I stumbled across this paint one day while at Advance Auto Parts in need of some sand paper, literally there was a case on the
"Duplicolor Engine Enamel" this paint works quite well as long as you let it dry. It has some sort of ceramic base and is good up to 500 degrees. They even have clear in satin and gloss finishes. It has a good spray tip, price is about 5.00 a can. I have used it on two racing models so far with good results. I do not use very heavy coats most of my planes are for racing and extra paint is extra weight. There is a wide color selection and a primer base to go with this paint.

Scott