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Author Topic: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly  (Read 6057 times)

Offline Jay

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Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« on: August 16, 2021, 08:28:22 PM »
Looking for an opinion on the Sterling Ruffy. I acquired a Sterling kit years ago. Not sure if it's worth building or does it have collector's value?
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Online Dan McEntee

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2021, 08:53:45 PM »
  If you like the look of it, and don't have any great love for just collecting and no real monetary need to sell it, build the darn thing!!! t's a Lew McFarland design and that is enough for me. I have a nice one to collect and a builder's kit also. I do believe it was published but forget which magazine. The plans show a bubble canopy and the box art shows an open cockpit pit, so you have options there. It's a nice looking airplane also. If any of the kit wood looks suspect, just use the parts for templates on better wood. Time's a wastin' better to build it and have some fun than have it sitting n the shelf when you turn toes up!!
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Online Dave_Trible

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #2 on: August 17, 2021, 05:22:33 AM »
I have had two.  Built well and light it will fly very well.  The Sterling kit will probably have heavy, hard wood.  I'd replace most of it with better stuff.  Keep the ribs and sticks-go for light sheet wood.  As a kid I met Lew McFarland at the 1968 Nats.  He had his Shark 45 and I told him I'd like to build one.  He told me to build the Ruffy instead-it flew better. (true story).

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Offline Steve Dwyer

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2021, 07:17:11 AM »
So how would you compare a well built (light) Ruffy to the Nobler? I have a Sterling Ruffy kit I bought on ebay 4 years with all intentions to build it but have lost the incentive. I now have a Vector on the front edge of shelf next in line. I don't recall it's design date, I'm sure it's not OTS?

Steve

Offline peabody

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2021, 07:24:40 AM »
Windy told me that he built FIVE Ruffy's when learning to fly....in one summer....
Thought they were better than a Nobler.

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #5 on: August 17, 2021, 07:45:54 AM »
So how would you compare a well built (light) Ruffy to the Nobler? I have a Sterling Ruffy kit I bought on ebay 4 years with all intentions to build it but have lost the incentive. I now have a Vector on the front edge of shelf next in line. I don't recall it's design date, I'm sure it's not OTS?

Steve
I didn't have good experiences with the Nobler I built long ago but I'm sure it was me.  I'd still go with the Ruffy, maybe simply because it looks better!  The wing is more complicated to build but no big deal really.  Use better wood for the flaps and DON'T cut out the rectangle holes in them.

Dave
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Offline Will Hinton

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2021, 10:01:13 AM »
I've built two Ruffys, the first was a kit I purchased when they first came out, built it to be my first stuner while I was flying combat.  I was in Navy Memphis at the time so didn't fimish it til much later, but it was heavy and still helped me learn the pattern.  Had a Fox 35 in it.
The next I scratch built, was an eleven ounce to the square foot success with an OS Max and I flew it in intermediate for three seasons.  I still have it.  Being a neophyte during the first one, I have no idea if it flew well, but with the second (light) one, it is still a very good ship.  If I start flying again and my PA ship folds up on me I would not hesitate to enter expert with it.
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Offline john e. holliday

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2021, 11:32:21 AM »
Sorry Dave I had the first Ruffy in the KC area.  Built the kit and it came out heavy to what we want these days.  At the demo at the air show I flew it when no body else would fly because of the wind.  That Fox 35 stunt was a beast and the plane never got light during the pattern I flew.  Several years ago I built another Ruffy from plans and tried my best to make it light for VSC.  Did not get to fly because as I was in the ready area holding down the plane and pit box the contest was put on hold because of the high winds that day.  The next day the weather decided nobody would fly.  I think I flew it several times an it was very quick on the controls and I could not tame it down.  Don't remember who took it from me.   D>K
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Offline Phil Spillman

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2021, 02:30:41 PM »
My then girlfriend , now wife gave me a Ruffy kit for Christmas one year! After we were married I built the kit but substituted a Macky Lark fuselage for the hardest wood known to mankind plus I didn't like multiple fuselage parts to get one side member. This high brid turned out to be a fine stunt plane! I powered it with a K & B .45 running with a reverse crankshaft! I used pusher nylon props in 1967 or so and really enjoyed my first adventure into Stunt! It did fly better than my first Nobler!

Phil Spillman 
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Offline Howard Rush

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2021, 04:56:11 PM »
Sorry Dave I had the first Ruffy in the KC area. 

Wayne Meriwether had one. 
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Offline Steve Dwyer

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #10 on: August 17, 2021, 05:10:49 PM »
I've built two Ruffys, the first was a kit I purchased when they first came out, built it to be my first stuner while I was flying combat.  I was in Navy Memphis at the time so didn't fimish it til much later, but it was heavy and still helped me learn the pattern.  Had a Fox 35 in it.
The next I scratch built, was an eleven ounce to the square foot success with an OS Max and I flew it in intermediate for three seasons.  I still have it.  Being a neophyte during the first one, I have no idea if it flew well, but with the second (light) one, it is still a very good ship.  If I start flying again and my PA ship folds up on me I would not hesitate to enter expert with it.

Will,

Eleven oz / ft was an accomplishment for sure. Can you recall what size Max you had on it? I have two Max FP 35's, are you referring to the older style Max or the later?

Steve



Offline Will Hinton

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #11 on: August 17, 2021, 05:39:08 PM »
I had the FP if I remember right.  I don't remember who helped me detune it to eliminate the runaway tendency, but it had plenty of power was pretty reliable as far as a true stunt run.  Since I started running the 46VF in my Ephesian around the mid 90's or so, this old memory has faded a bit.  In a side note, I pick up my Ruffy from Allen Goff this coming weekend at the FCM weekend since he brought it back from Brodak's for me.  I have a picture of Lew and I holding the ruffy somewhere, but can't dig it out of this %*&^^#$ computer right now but will try again later on.  Your FP's will do a fine job for you.
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Offline Shorts,David

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #12 on: August 17, 2021, 06:54:24 PM »
Ted will probably chime in here, but about three years ago I watched him clean house with his Ruffy at Meet'n'meet in classic. Then, the next day, in Nat champion form, he flew the Ruffy to third in PA. Right behind Brett Buck, and David Fitzgerald, both flying their PA planes.

Online Brett Buck

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #13 on: August 19, 2021, 10:36:17 AM »
So how would you compare a well built (light) Ruffy to the Nobler? I have a Sterling Ruffy kit I bought on ebay 4 years with all intentions to build it but have lost the incentive. I now have a Vector on the front edge of shelf next in line. I don't recall it's design date, I'm sure it's not OTS?

    The Vector is not OTS or Classic legal, by about 15 years!  It is far better than the Nobler or Ruffy. It is probably legal for "rolling cutoff Classic",  whatever it is called.

     I have flown (green box) Noblers extensively, and also flown Ted's Ruffy several times and watched it for years. I would say the Nobler is generally better and demands less of the engine. I like the way the Ruffy turns better., it actually turns a lot like a modern airplane, not swoopy like a Green Box Nobler. But the very low aspect ratio of the wing seems to demand a lot of power to keep it going.

    How good a particular kit works also depends on the quality of the wood. Sterling was known for its absolutely terrible wood as a general rule, but that doesn't mean your particular kit is bad.

      Brett

Offline Steve Dwyer

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #14 on: August 20, 2021, 06:19:18 AM »
Brett,

Sorry my my last post you responded to was fragmented, I was referring to the age of the Ruffy as to whether it was OTS legal not the Vector. I'm sure the plans are dated.

Most folks used the Fox 35 on the Ruffy, if more ump is recommended would you suggest building in a Max 35 of 40 FP or go up to a LA 40? All are heavier than the Fox.

I haven't looked at the lumber in the Sterling Ruffy kit recently, it's probably the first Sterling I've had since a Ringmaster in the 50s. If it's like many of the dated kits from the past I'll have to start over. The Veco Chief kit I built last year was fire wood, I used the plans and scratch built it.

Steve

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #15 on: August 20, 2021, 06:41:00 AM »
The Ruffy is far too 'new', around 1960, for Old Time but perfect for Classic.  The Fox is likely the best for it due to weight but also fuel capacity inside the nose of the airplane.  It's pretty tight. I'd also run it open faced.  Mufflers will make it nose heavy.  I mis-spoke before- I actually have/had three.  The first my dad purchased from someone locally for me to fly (maybe Merriweathers?) and had a Fox.  It was likely the best.  The second I jet-styled with a forward canopy and Navy paint job for the 1970 Nats as a Senior and it had a red head McCoy.  The last I just built a few years ago with a McCoy again.  It sits unflown in the basement.  I used cloth hinges and they are way to stiff with dope to make me happy.  Someday I may re-do it.  Maybe not.   Might just build a better one. 

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Offline Will Hinton

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #16 on: August 20, 2021, 09:13:12 AM »
To zero in on the year for the Ruffy, I was in school in Memphis when it came out and that was in 1959, Dave, you are pretty much spot on with the year. y1
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Offline Steve Dwyer

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #17 on: August 20, 2021, 05:59:34 PM »
Dave you have Ruffy in your DNA, I'm getting very motivated about my kit.

I like the 6 Fox 35 engines I have, including the original I resurrected from 1960, it's been since retired. The others were all NIB ebay buys I took care to break in correctly, I have no complaint about any if them. All the Foxes sit on something that's flyable but the past two years I have been using OS 35 and 40 FP's on all the new builds. I've no problem building new around a Fox 35 you can't beat the weight advantage when using a tongue muffler.

Thanks,

Steve

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #18 on: August 20, 2021, 07:02:21 PM »
Yeah I'd go with the Fox.  If she comes out nose heavy with the muffler-well they bolt on AND off.  Maybe fine.  In the day guys used to melt lead sinkers and pour the Fox backplate full when they were tail heavy.  Also if you fly from grass you should lengthen the landing gear maybe an inch.  If you don't the airplane sits too low to take off.  This one I have is stock and the one time I had it at the field I didn't get it out of the grass.  The kit called for something like 3" wheels (wow).  Use 2 1/4- 2 1/2 very light wheels with longer legs.  Just my suggestion.

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #19 on: August 20, 2021, 07:17:20 PM »
Dug it out..
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Offline doug coursey

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #20 on: October 29, 2022, 07:49:48 AM »
    The Vector is not OTS or Classic legal, by about 15 years!  It is far better than the Nobler or Ruffy. It is probably legal for "rolling cutoff Classic",  whatever it is called.

     I have flown (green box) Noblers extensively, and also flown Ted's Ruffy several times and watched it for years. I would say the Nobler is generally better and demands less of the engine. I like the way the Ruffy turns better., it actually turns a lot like a modern airplane, not swoopy like a Green Box Nobler. But the very low aspect ratio of the wing seems to demand a lot of power to keep it going.

    How good a particular kit works also depends on the quality of the wood. Sterling was known for its absolutely terrible wood as a general rule, but that doesn't mean your particular kit is bad.

      Brett
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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #21 on: October 29, 2022, 08:52:51 AM »
I am considering building a fourth one- to copy the one I flew in Junior at the Nats.  This time I will put a Fox in it for time correctness.  I would use straight one to one controls,  especially if they aren’t going to be adjustable.  I will also use nylon hinges.  I put cloth hinges on the last one but they ended up so stiff as to be useless.  I trashed that airplane.  The hinges and short gear made that one a write off.  Has to be lighter too.  That wing is thin....

Dave
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Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #22 on: October 29, 2022, 09:24:19 AM »
I built one of these in 1964 as a backup/practice plane.  It did corner well but that was about all.  It was light on the lines and a nightmare overhead but then I was 16 and pretty light on the lines myself and trim is what you did to the hedges Saturday morning!  All Aero-Gloss silver with no trim at all.  Boring! My experience with cloth hinges is quite different.  Mine were always fall down floppy free, never stiff.  Still nylon is much better.  The tip design stuck with me.  All but one of my designs has swept tips.

Ken

After reading more posts I wanted to add that my plane, and as far as I know, most all planes of the day did not have adjustable leadouts or tip weight.  Those seemingly obvious enhancements came sometime while I was playing soldier because they were in wide use in 75 when I got back into it.
« Last Edit: November 07, 2022, 06:15:48 AM by Ken Culbertson »
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Offline Will Hinton

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #23 on: October 30, 2022, 09:14:36 AM »
Found my picture of Lew and I with my Ruffy at the nats one year, don't remember which year it was.  I did not fly it there, just took it in case Lew showed up, which he obviously did.
It still hangs on the wall in my shop, in an honored spot.
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Offline Dennis Adamisin

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #24 on: November 03, 2022, 11:33:36 AM »
Found my picture of Lew and I with my Ruffy at the nats one year, don't remember which year it was.  I did not fly it there, just took it in case Lew showed up, which he obviously did.
It still hangs on the wall in my shop, in an honored spot.

Nice picture of Lew. Nice looking Ruffy. Who’s the young guy?
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Offline Will Hinton

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #25 on: November 04, 2022, 02:53:12 PM »
Nice picture of Lew. Nice looking Ruffy. Who’s the young guy?
You should recognise him, he's your big brother from another mother.  Howyadoin, Den?
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Offline Dennis Adamisin

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #26 on: November 06, 2022, 09:08:24 AM »
You should recognise him, he's your big brother from another mother.  Howyadoin, Den?

Hey Big Brother, all I can say is that if anybody wants to pick on you they gotta go through ME first!  (btw, check your email...)
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Offline Ted Fancher

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #27 on: November 06, 2022, 03:22:47 PM »
I've still got the Ruffy Brett Buck commented about earlier in this thread.  It was built for VSC purposes and, as I can recall, was very competitive.  Flew it to good finishes/wins  in a number of contests there and locally "back in the day....don't ask me what day!!!...

If the link below works you might get a chance to check it out:

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Lew+McFarland%27s+Ruffy#imgrc=N_NVVEGossyQwM

Gotta admit its a good looking ship and not at all "old timer" looking.

Ted

p.s.  Checked the link and it does work.  Brings up several pics from an ad.

Here's another link that brings up better viewing options: https://www.ebay.com/itm/155111442129

This is embarrassing.  Got me so interested I went out in the shop/garage and pulled the thing down off the ceiling after noting some interesting facts about it.

It was/is powered by an unusual engine (almost certainly out of production for years) called a "Wiley's Custom Engines Stunt .40".  It was custom because it was delivered with the option of rear or side exhaust made possible by a separate "header" that could be attached to the engine so as to allow the two options.  My ship opted for the rear exhaust and it worked beautifully...fully enclosed engine with only a belly exposure visible only by turning the ship upside down and peering in a cooling air exhaust just like a tuned pipe concept but not quite as long as the fuel tank below it (well....above it when the ship was on its feet!)  Sort of a four or so inch long mini "pipe"!

Of interest with respect to the ship's performance was the prop that I used; a carbon three blade 10X4 undercambered/molded beauty...hand made and narrowly marketed more or less by it's maker (each by hand) down in Sydney Australia whose name my old-timer's disease has temporarily removed from my memory dome.  When it allows me to remember I'll come back on line and include it.

With that semi-modern thrust mechanism I'm pretty sure I could have been competitive with it in regular AMA comps of the day.  It was/is a very good design that we might want to look down at today as a result of it's original history of a Fox .35 avec a flat bladed 10X6 Power Prop in a steady four stroke (hopefully) switching to two stroke when actual horsepower was necessary!  (Yes, we really did fly 'em that way back in the day.)

Thanks for the trip down memory lane!  Gotta go down and bolt it back together and hang it back off the ceiling!

Ted
« Last Edit: November 06, 2022, 04:16:24 PM by Ted Fancher »

Online Dan McEntee

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #28 on: November 06, 2022, 03:41:23 PM »
I've still got the Ruffy Brett Buck commented about earlier in this thread.  It was built for VSC purposes and, as I can recall, was very competitive.  Flew it to good finishes/wins  in a number of contests there and locally "back in the day....don't ask me what day!!!...

If the link below works you might get a chance to check it out:

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Lew+McFarland%27s+Ruffy#imgrc=N_NVVEGossyQwM

Gotta admit its a good looking ship and not at all "old timer" looking.

Ted

p.s.  Checked the link and it does work.  Brings up several pics from an ad.

Here's another link that brings up better viewing options: https://www.ebay.com/itm/155111442129

   What did you power it with Ted> The design was published in May, 1958 Model Airplane News and kitted by Sterling. It would be interesting to compare plans and see if this design was a victim of "resizing " by the kit manufacturer as was the custom it seems back then. I have a Sterling kit and someone's replica kit I think.
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Offline Ted Fancher

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #29 on: November 06, 2022, 04:28:37 PM »
Dan,

Go back to my original post.  I've made some updates that include the info you're after!

Offline doug coursey

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #30 on: November 06, 2022, 06:06:00 PM »
I've still got the Ruffy Brett Buck commented about earlier in this thread.  It was built for VSC purposes and, as I can recall, was very competitive.  Flew it to good finishes/wins  in a number of contests there and locally "back in the day....don't ask me what day!!!...

If the link below works you might get a chance to check it out:

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Lew+McFarland%27s+Ruffy#imgrc=N_NVVEGossyQwM

Gotta admit its a good looking ship and not at all "old timer" looking.

Ted

p.s.  Checked the link and it does work.  Brings up several pics from an ad.

Here's another link that brings up better viewing options: https://www.ebay.com/itm/155111442129

This is embarrassing.  Got me so interested I went out in the shop/garage and pulled the thing down off the ceiling after noting some interesting facts about it.

It was/is powered by an unusual engine (almost certainly out of production for years) called a "Wiley's Custom Engines Stunt .40".  It was custom because it was delivered with the option of rear or side exhaust made possible by a separate "header" that could be attached to the engine so as to allow the two options.  My ship opted for the rear exhaust and it worked beautifully...fully enclosed engine with only a belly exposure visible only by turning the ship upside down and peering in a cooling air exhaust just like a tuned pipe concept but not quite as long as the fuel tank below it (well....above it when the ship was on its feet!)  Sort of a four or so inch long mini "pipe"!

Of interest with respect to the ship's performance was the prop that I used; a carbon three blade 10X4 undercambered/molded beauty...hand made and narrowly marketed more or less by it's maker (each by hand) down in Sydney Australia whose name my old-timer's disease has temporarily removed from my memory dome.  When it allows me to remember I'll come back on line and include it.

With that semi-modern thrust mechanism I'm pretty sure I could have been competitive with it in regular AMA comps of the day.  It was/is a very good design that we might want to look down at today as a result of it's original history of a Fox .35 avec a flat bladed 10X6 Power Prop in a steady four stroke (hopefully) switching to two stroke when actual horsepower was necessary!  (Yes, we really did fly 'em that way back in the day.)

Thanks for the trip down memory lane!  Gotta go down and bolt it back together and hang it back off the ceiling!

Ted

what kit ( if you  built it from a kit ) did you use...i am looking at an RSM kit...i have a RoJett 40 rear exhaust i could put in it....i know some kits werent exactly like the original version...control ratio's did you use 1 to 1 and bellcrank size if you remember  Doug
« Last Edit: November 06, 2022, 06:34:46 PM by doug coursey »
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Offline Steve Dwyer

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #31 on: November 07, 2022, 05:29:55 AM »
Before this topic goes back into hibernation I must ask how much effect would converting from wing landing gear to fuse mounted gear change the CG and aerodynamic performance? Also it was mentioned someone's Ruffy performed poorly overhead, has anyone modified the lead outs using adjustable?

Steve

Offline Will Hinton

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #32 on: November 07, 2022, 08:22:49 AM »
Steve, my leadouts were adjustable and I had no problems with tension throughout the pattern once it was trimmed, which actually took very little adjusting with any part of the system.  The only flaw in performance came from the handle.  (Or was it the handle operator?)
John 5:24   www.fcmodelers.com

Offline Steve Dwyer

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #33 on: November 07, 2022, 11:48:25 AM »
Will,

From what I can see the 1960 plans did not have adjustable lead outs. Obviously builders were adding them into there second or third model. I wonder if the RSM kit now has them built into their plan? Also any thoughts regarding changing the landing gear from the wing to the fuse in front of the leading edge? I often fly at a nearby park soccer field which raises hell with wing gear.

Steve

Offline doug coursey

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #34 on: November 07, 2022, 01:28:40 PM »
Will,

From what I can see the 1960 plans did not have adjustable lead outs. Obviously builders were adding them into there second or third model. I wonder if the RSM kit now has them built into their plan? Also any thoughts regarding changing the landing gear from the wing to the fuse in front of the leading edge? I often fly at a nearby park soccer field which raises hell with wing gear.


 
Steve

the RSM kit comes with adjustable leadouts...go to RSM web site and the kit details are there..the RSM kits are not built the same as the original model was designed..the plans are different than the original version....Doug      www.rsmdistribution.com/index.php
     
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Offline Will Hinton

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #35 on: November 07, 2022, 03:12:33 PM »
Steve, I know of your pain...I lost the outboard gear in grass a week before a Cleveland contest one yaer and barely got the thing repaired enough to fly it there.  I don't think it should be all that difficult to fuse' mount the gear with a little beefing up at the attachment point.
John 5:24   www.fcmodelers.com

Offline Ted Fancher

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #36 on: November 07, 2022, 04:03:17 PM »
Before this topic goes back into hibernation I must ask how much effect would converting from wing landing gear to fuse mounted gear change the CG and aerodynamic performance? Also it was mentioned someone's Ruffy performed poorly overhead, has anyone modified the lead outs using adjustable?

Steve

Hi Steve,

As long as the "fore/aft" location of the fuse mounted gear is "close" to the wing mounted gear its in the noise factor.  The thing that is important is that you get the touchdown point of the wheels themselves within a half inch or so of the plans location.  The important thing about the landing gear location is that the wheels touchdown point be just a bit forward of the center of gravity...say an inch or so.  Too far aft and the ship will nose over in landings on other than hard surface or "perfect" grass.  Too far forward and the CG will drive the tail wheel down upon touchdown and you'll be fighting to keep the thing from taking off again...bouncing, in other words.

Don't worry yourself about affects on airborne performance as long as that fore/aft location doesn't go crazy or you use big, lead tires on
'em!  Always, however, make adjustable leadouts part of your "standard" construction "musts", especially if the ship is intended for competition purposes.  There are few things more important on a ship that in other respects has the aero check marks in all the proper places...access for nose/tail weight adjustments; tip weight, access to tweak the flap elevator ratio, etc.

Ted Fancher

« Last Edit: November 07, 2022, 06:12:46 PM by Ted Fancher »

Offline Ted Fancher

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #37 on: November 07, 2022, 05:16:48 PM »
Almost forgot!!!

I flew a Ruffy at my first Nationals in 1959!  Almost certainly from the original kit as I don't believe I was yet scratch building.  I've got a picture of it on my facebook page but don't know how to post it here anymore.  Here's a cut and paste of my notes for it:

"This is an ancient photo (again from brother Chip) of the Ruffy (designed by Lew McFarland) I flew as a Junior at the 1959 Nats (at Los Alimitos Naval Airstation). Larry Fernandez will be happy to note it had no cowling. I didn't have the tools or the expertise to build and mount such a thing back then so the bare nekkid Fox .35 stuck its ugly head out for all to see."

Blatant personal history note:  I should'a won Junior that hear.  Finished first in my qualifying circle (two circles for just us juniors!  Times have changed) and went out to practice that night for the finals.  Saw a famous flyer/designer of the era, Bob Palmer out practicing with his great Thunderbird so thought I'd joint him...OOOOOO-kay???  He said sure but asked me to stop playing with his controls (over/under leadouts) and asked me to wait until the contest was over...OOOOkay.  First flight I was in the middle of the overhead eights when the Fox .35 (what else????) decided it was a good time to spit out that spinning disk on it's nose...taking the spinner/prop/ and crankshaft out of the front of the front end and instantaneously leaving the remains of the Ruffy grossly tailheavy...bobbbing and weaving to a loud crunch upon arrival to mother earth.   OOOOPS.  (Bob wasn't impressed! but helped gather the parts so I could glue things back together in a famous nats all nighter in the hangar dedicated to us for the duration of the event.  Duke Fox stopped by and took the remains of the .35 and said he'd have it back to me by morning in one piece but in need of a break-in.  (Get the picture?  All these famous model plane Stunt legends helping out!   Impressed me!

Quick finish: The one more or less complete flight I flew in the finals the engine went lean and ran forever including a multi-lap roll out as the Fox continued melting itself down at about 1/3 the RPM necessary to fly the patched up Ruffy...ultimately far exceeding the allowable eight minutes and costing landing and pattern points! Oi Vey...and a final placing well below what I had hoped for the night before!

Oh,  and Billy Werwage won the Walker Cup after finsihing number one as a Senior and whupping the finalists in the Walker flyoff...including Bob Palmer who won open.  Billy was off to embarrassing the rest of us for decades thereafter.

Oh, and the Ruffy did not live to fly another day.
« Last Edit: November 07, 2022, 06:09:40 PM by Ted Fancher »

Online Ken Culbertson

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #38 on: November 07, 2022, 07:39:23 PM »
Duke Fox stopped by and took the remains of the .35 and said he'd have it back to me by morning in one piece but in need of a break-in.  (Get the picture?  All these famous model plane Stunt legends helping out!   Impressed me!
1964 Nats in Senior.  Duke Fox and George Aldrich found me on the practice circle swearing at my Fox 35.   Both had watched my last flight which did things very similar to yours. George (Mr. Aldrich - I was 17) thought that the motor was fine, it just needed a Nobler.   Duke (Mr. Fox) asked if he could take the motor for a while and see if he could make it run better.  He did and I put up the high flight score the next day.  How I got -0- appearance points and ended up 6th (out of 20, it was "back in the day") is another story. 

Ken
« Last Edit: September 11, 2023, 06:36:53 AM by Ken Culbertson »
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Offline Steve Dwyer

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #39 on: November 08, 2022, 05:37:15 AM »
Thanks gents for the fun trip down memory lane. Not all of us were as fortunate to have met these icons of early control line modeling.

Steve

Offline Ted Fancher

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #40 on: November 08, 2022, 01:19:02 PM »
  IN an earlier post Doug Coursey (sp??) asked: "What kit ( if you  built it from a kit ) did you use...i am looking at an RSM kit...i have a RoJett 40 rear exhaust i could put in it....i know some kits werent exactly like the original version...control ratio's did you use 1 to 1 and bellcrank size if you remember  Doug."

Sorry Doug.  Couldn't figure out how to respond directly to your questions so sort of whipped up doing it this way.

First of all, the ship was built for VSC 18 which, if I did the math correctly, would have been 2006.  Given my "old timer's" memory that's about 16 years ago which is well beyond my memory limit for details about much of  what you'd like to know.  I don't recall building anything at all from a kit after about age 25 or so.  Thus my best answer is that I built it from scratch probably from plans available at the time.  I again employ Old Timer's disease as an excuse with respect to the source of said plans.  My apologies.

I'm pretty certain I did nothing "exotic" when building it other than adapting necessary  internal changes to the nose, tank, muffler, etc to adapt it to the unusual engine I discussed with the "rear or side exhaust header" option. 

My guess for the "era" in which it was built would be that I utilized a four inch bellcrank and horns to allow the flap/elevator deflection set-up to be one to one with about 30 degree deflection available up and down...seldom, if ever, utilizing all of that but...just in case!  On my ship I ended up with the elevators trimmed "down" a degree and a half or so to achieve equal inputs for equal response by the ship (accomplished with access to the adjustable elevator horn through a removable hatch below the hinge line on the inboard side.

That's about the best I can throw at you, Doug.  Good luck with your project.  Hope you find a decent set of plans.  I checked out the RSM site and it appears on the surface to be reasonably true to the originals albeit apparently adapted to unique tools for production.  The prices were a bit of a shock for a long retired old timer though.  Sounds like my attic's content value has arisen smartly in the last dozen plus years!

Good luck!

Ted

Offline Steve Dwyer

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Re: Ruffy kit. How does it build and fly
« Reply #41 on: November 18, 2022, 07:15:30 AM »
Ted,

I've been pretty "Ruffied Up" after searching as much that's been said about the Ruffy until I came across the discussion below I found under the topic "Old time Stunters vs New Ones" posted in 2009. I have the full size RMS plans and am ready to push the button to place an order for wood but now I'm leaning away. It all makes good sense and I don't need another OTS under performer especially in the areas your describe. Increasing the tail from its approximate 17% to 25% bringing the CG aft and even equalizing the wings holding to 50" still is not going to change it's aspect so where to go???
I have an unopened Brodak Vector 40 kit on the shelf and an OS 46 ready for it. Say good bye to the Ruffy and leave the old kit on the shelf as a reminder of the past.  Any final thoughts since your 2009 position?
 
Steve


Ted your input.....

While I'm a big Lew McFarland fan (especially the awesome Shark), I'm less enamored of the Ruffy.  My decision to build the one I flew once or twice at VSC was based largely on nostalgia.  I had flown one at my very first Nats in 1959 as a Junior.  It was a very cool thing for a young man to do (traveled by train with my brother Gary from Seattle down to the "Smog City" (LA) , met tons of new friends and witnessed many of my teen age heroes in the "Wonderland Park" atmosphere of the work hangar at Los Alimitos  (Palmer, a young Werwage, Riley Wooten, Duke Fox and on and on).  It was sort of a competitive nightmare (finished sixth after blowing up the Fox practicing the night before the Junior Finals [yes, they had qualifying and finals for Jr. and Sr. back then]) that had enough highlights to obscure any sense of disappointment.

Sorry, at my age you tend to ramble ...

The Ruffy is sort of a  poster child for a number of things that proved to not be ideal for a competitive stunt ship.  Primarily these are subtle differences that make more modern designs (and a handful of the Ruffy's contemporaries) stand out when faced with less than ideal conditions.  Boiled down to their basics, the shortcomings amount to: too small a tail in relation to the wing area and a much too low aspect ratio.

Ostensibly "similar" to the Nobler of roughly the same vintage, IMHO the Ruffy suffers in comparison.  I built and flew an "original" Nobler from the Brodak kit with what would appear today to be an inferior (read skinny) airfoil that was short lived (a recreation of its demise is viewable on YouTube) but was among the best flying airplanes I've ever built and flown.  After it was squashed I (at the urging of Don McClave) picked up one of Eric Rules terrific laser cut Ruffy kits and put it together for the next VSC.

The comparison over a short period of time was quite dramatic.  Both airplanes were roughly the same wing area (550 or so) and weighed in the very low 40 oz range.  The Nobler is right around a five to one aspect ratio while the Ruffy was closer to four to one (I'd have to go measure it again but that's pretty close) Both airplanes used the identical power train, a Rustler .40 starting out with a Tornado 10 X 4 three blade prop and 10% nitro fuel.   Neither has the now common 25% or so tail volume although the Nobler was significantly larger proportionately and didn't have to be as big because of the higher aspect ratio wing. The Ruffy tail is, frankly, tiny.

About the only trim issue that was necessary (other than minor CG adjustments) to the Nobler was a tab on the end outboard flap to compensate for the overly asymmetrical wing that was ubiquitous in that era.  Other than that the airplane flew as though on rails and loved the four pitch prop.  It flew for the first time a day or two before official flying at VSC that year and came in a very competitive 2nd or 3rd.  It was delightfully balanced and "never" did anything unexpected.  There wasn't much "air" at the event as I recall and it didn't live long enough to gain further exposure so I can only state that it "felt" as though it would handle bad air very effectively.

The Ruffy, by comparison, had numerous trim issues that needed to be resolved to make it fly competitively although it did finish somewhere in the top five at its first VSC.  Two things jumped out right away.  First, it wasn't going to turn corners with one to one flap/elevator ratios.  That was totally expected but the plan was to start out with the ship set up like its contemporary and see how it had to be changed.

Second, the same powertrain setup that worked so well on the Nobler was totally overwhelmed by the Ruffy. In the hot air of Tucson I ended up flying the ship on roughly 20% nitro and, initially with a 10 X 6 Tornado but finally with a 10.5 X 5.5 Eather courtesy of Keith Trostle.  The reason for this disparity is clearly the low aspect ratio wing which produces more drag for a given amount of lift.  Even reducing the flap throw significantly plus adding tail weight the drag was simply too much for the powertrain that performed so well on the Nobler. It would slow down in maneuvers and never had enough torque to accelerate again until it was back in level flight.

There is no doubt in my mind that an Aero Tiger .36 would improve this situation remarkably.

With the reduced flap deflection and the "turbo-ed" Rustler the Ruffy flew "OK" in the competition but required much more attention to do the tricks well.  The reduced flap travel made the ship twitchy in corners and difficult to stop at the desired angle. Pull outs at five feet were generally a matter of luck.  It would pull out at six or seven feet the first square and trying to finesse the second would bring it out at two feet the second time 'round.  The next flight those differences might be reversed.

The tiny tail combined with the low aspect ratio wing made the ship very sensitive to CG changes. As a result it would be sort of sluggish in response at the start of the flight and twitchy at the end of the flight.  Again, it was generally difficult to fly well, especially when compared to the smooth predictable response of the Nobler.

Although it's been repeated so often as to sound like a mantra, I've got to repeat that there is a reason the Nobler is considered the Grandaddy of most everything that flies stunt well 60 years later.  We've made modest progress in refining George's original genius but under very good to modestly bad conditions the Nobler is still a worthy work horse.

I can't quite say the same thing for the Ruffy ... despite all the fond memories of my first one.

Ted


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