Nice. Cost? And is there an electric offering of it?
Steve
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I've built several S-1 Ringmasters. All from plans. Because all my planes must finish at or less than a weight I consider "flyable".Hi Floyd! Now I know this is probably going to get a lot of guys "spun up" but just curious ... why weight conscious? What is it about weight that is so worthy of consideration? I have one that I built from bask in the day (probably 2011) that I have literally flown, crashed and repaired so many times (actually 1029 as of the last Flyathon). Actually, I have dedicated to to just flying for the Flyathon at this point. Heavy? Yep! Somewhat fuel soaked? Yep!Globs of epoxy and superglue? Yep! I even power it with and old OS Max .40 r/c with muffler!! and that Ol' Blue will still do every maneuver I know how to do ... but I sure have fun. So, is weight really all that important when it comes to having fun and ringing the Richter Scale? ;D LL~ LL~
Let's hope that Ringmaster kit reproductions are weight conscious.
Hi Floyd! Now I know this is probably going to get a lot of guys "spun up" but just curious ... why weight conscious? What is it about weight that is so worthy of consideration?
If I can ever get the motor suppliers to give me real dimensional information, I will design the electric motor version.
Most electric motor vendors do not even have any dimensioned drawings of the motors and adaptors they sell because they don't make them, they just sell them.
Hi Floyd! Now I know this is probably going to get a lot of guys "spun up" but just curious ... why weight conscious? What is it about weight that is so worthy of consideration? I have one that I built from bask in the day (probably 2011) that I have literally flown, crashed and repaired so many times (actually 1029 as of the last Flyathon). Actually, I have dedicated to to just flying for the Flyathon at this point. Heavy? Yep! Somewhat fuel soaked? Yep!Globs of epoxy and superglue? Yep! I even power it with and old OS Max .40 r/c with muffler!! and that Ol' Blue will still do every maneuver I know how to do ... but I sure have fun. So, is weight really all that important when it comes to having fun and ringing the Richter Scale? ;D LL~ LL~
Jim
Weight matters (in both directions) and it is probably generally true that up to a point, reducing the mass of your Ringmaster helps. That point is when it starts falling apart - which is a very common occurrence when people are trying to build "really light" Ringmasters. The structural design is so poor that it is very easy to lighten it to the point the wings fold or come off completely.
This is most common when someone combines their "world's lightest Ringmaster" effort with other items that actually help - better engines and most important of all, *reducing the control throw*. The usual +-45 degree or more "flipper" elevator will try to turn the airplane at a radius far, far below anything that even the lightest Ringmaster could hope to achieve. So the classic kit Ringmaster/Fox 35 flight is a bunch of level flight interrupted by violent stalls. That's why it has such a bad reputation.
Trying to solve that problem by just making it lighter is nearly hopeless, you cannot possibly make it light enough to support a 1 or 2 foot corner radius no matter what engine you use - and still be strong enough to stay together in your new super-duper 50G corner.
There are plenty of kit-wood Ringmasters that fly pretty well as long as you slow the controls enough to keep it from stalling, and you are using a good engine (15FP, Veco 19, etc) in the 30 ounce range or higher - much better than upper teens weight (lowest I have seen is something like 16 ounces) Ringmasters with fast controls and questionable engines. If nothing else even with a good engine and proper controls, the 18-ouncers are far too light on the lines to handle the unexpected upsets.
The Almighty Ounce is more an article of religious faith than it is practical engineering. Build your Ringmaster in the range of maybe 28-32 ounces with a good engine, set the controls up so you can't stall it with normal wrist movement (which might wind up looking absurdly slow, like +-1/2" - 3/4" at the trailing edge), run it at under 5 seconds/lap on 58-60 foot lines, and it will fly very nicely.
Brett
Weight matters (in both directions) and it is probably generally true that up to a point, reducing the mass of your Ringmaster helps. That point is when it starts falling apart - which is a very common occurrence when people are trying to build "really light" Ringmasters. The structural design is so poor that it is very easy to lighten it to the point the wings fold or come off completely.
This is most common when someone combines their "world's lightest Ringmaster" effort with other items that actually help - better engines and most important of all, *reducing the control throw*. The usual +-45 degree or more "flipper" elevator will try to turn the airplane at a radius far, far below anything that even the lightest Ringmaster could hope to achieve. So the classic kit Ringmaster/Fox 35 flight is a bunch of level flight interrupted by violent stalls. That's why it has such a bad reputation.
Trying to solve that problem by just making it lighter is nearly hopeless, you cannot possibly make it light enough to support a 1 or 2 foot corner radius no matter what engine you use - and still be strong enough to stay together in your new super-duper 50G corner.
There are plenty of kit-wood Ringmasters that fly pretty well as long as you slow the controls enough to keep it from stalling, and you are using a good engine (15FP, Veco 19, etc) in the 30 ounce range or higher - much better than upper teens weight (lowest I have seen is something like 16 ounces) Ringmasters with fast controls and questionable engines. If nothing else even with a good engine and proper controls, the 18-ouncers are far too light on the lines to handle the unexpected upsets.
The Almighty Ounce is more an article of religious faith than it is practical engineering. Build your Ringmaster in the range of maybe 28-32 ounces with a good engine, set the controls up so you can't stall it with normal wrist movement (which might wind up looking absurdly slow, like +-1/2" - 3/4" at the trailing edge), run it at under 5 seconds/lap on 58-60 foot lines, and it will fly very nicely.
Brett
This brought back memories of Dee Rice in pursuit of an 18 ounce Ringmaster.
Mike
Hi Floyd! Now I know this is probably going to get a lot of guys "spun up" but just curious ... why weight conscious? What is it about weight that is so worthy of consideration? I have one that I built from bask in the day (probably 2011) that I have literally flown, crashed and repaired so many times (actually 1029 as of the last Flyathon). Actually, I have dedicated to to just flying for the Flyathon at this point. Heavy? Yep! Somewhat fuel soaked? Yep!Globs of epoxy and superglue? Yep! I even power it with and old OS Max .40 r/c with muffler!! and that Ol' Blue will still do every maneuver I know how to do ... but I sure have fun. So, is weight really all that important when it comes to having fun and ringing the Richter Scale? ;D LL~ LL~
Jim
When someone says 25 ounce Ringmaster, is that the weight of the plane only, or does that weight include the motor and prop and everything ready to fly but no fuel in the tank, or something else?
When someone says 25 ounce Ringmaster, is that the weight of the plane only, or does that weight include the motor and prop and everything ready to fly but no fuel in the tank, or something else?
Dan's last Ringer has a four stroke something or other for power.