paper gaskets

[Bootlegger]

  Guy's what have y'all found to be the best way to cut gaskets from paper, like tablet paper, I am wanting to cut a few for an L A 46 back plate, and I would like suggestions/ advice in this direction..  Thanks a lot...

[Dave_Trible]

Gil I use aluminum foil duct tape instead of paper.  Just stick it on,  Trim with your exacto and bolt up.  Likely you'll never need to do it again.  After the first run snug down the bolts again and just go.  This is what I use for pipe header gaskets and they don't blow out.

Dave

[Robert Zambelli]

Another way is to use anaerobic gasket compound.
I use it in ALL my engines - gas, glow and Diesel.
I've never had a problem with it leaking and it will expand to fill small gaps.
Most auto parts places carry it.

Bob Z.

[Phil Krankowski]

Rub a drop of colored  grease ( say wheal bearing grease, red or blue or gold or whatever) onto the flat mating surface of the case.  Now use the engine like a rubber stamp and press it into the gasket paper. Now you can quickly "print" several shapes to cut out.  Using a punch on the screw holes works well, cut the rest out with sharp scissors or a razor knife.

The hardest part is choosing which features can have extra clearance and which can have sloppy edges, and which really have to be exact.  The best tip is if you can access the edge when assembled, you can trim it after assembly.  Important edges need to be more exact, and screw holes can have extea space, typically.

 I suppose an actual ink pad or magic marker might work just the same instead of grease, I have generally used grease because it has geen handy when I have made gaskets.

Try parchment paper if you need really thin gaskets.  Gasket material comes in many thicknesses and will hold together better than printer paper or cereal box. 

I recall my Dad using a dollar bill to make a carburetor gasket...while we were on Lake Erie.  He saved the cutoffs and a couple years later when replacing the gasket with a proper one took all the parts to the bank for a new dollar.

Phil

[George Truett]

You can always just email this guy too.
http://icbimproducts.com/gaskets/newcart/viewcategory.php?groupid=0

[Brett Buck]

If you have the stock plastic/GRP backplate, I would strongly suggest leaving it alone until it starts leaking, and in particular, don't try to reall crank down on the screws to try to keep it from leaking. It just needs to be snug - if you start really tightening it hard, it will distort around the screw lugs and probably crack, eventually. If that happens, remove it, remove the paper gaskets, clean the backplate with lacquer thinner, then run a bead of silicone gasket sealant about 3/32" in diameter around the "corner" where the flange hits the tenon part. Then insert it and just lightly snug it up. Let it sit for a few hours at least, then you can tighten it to firm - not "tight", or until your Phillips head cams out.

     I have seen this many times on 25 and 46LAs - someone thinks it might be leaking, cranks down on the screws because they were "loose", then it leaks even worse.

     Brett

[Brett Buck]

This is what I use for pipe header gaskets and they don't blow out.

     Maybe you have managed it so far, but most or almost all of these arrangements I have seen have eventually failed. Get rid of the gasket, face off both mating surfaces with 400 grit sandpaper, and use Permatex Ultra Copper sealant. I have never had one fail and that's after many years/decades. You don't need or want a gasket with that. If you are worried about setup time, just crank it down hard right from the beginning, and then go fly it - I have flown them 5 minutes after applying it, it's not going to squeeze out before it cures due to the heat. When it is done correctly,  the only actual sealant is in the grooves left by the sandpaper.

     Brett

[Dave_Trible]

Brett I'll give that try next time I need to put one together.  I had a bad time with it on the .76 for a while until Stan Powell put me onto the duct tape.  It's worked mostly 100% accept on one where the screws eventually loosened.  Some non-permanent Lock Tite (blue) has solved that. 

Dave

[Bootlegger]

  Thanks for all the reply's guy's, I sure do appreciate the help, and to Sparky, I thank you also for this site   

[Brett Buck]

Brett I'll give that try next time I need to put one together.  I had a bad time with it on the .76 for a while until Stan Powell put me onto the duct tape.  It's worked mostly 100% accept on one where the screws eventually loosened.  Some non-permanent Lock Tite (blue) has solved that. 

      The screw probably loosened because the gasket compressed/flowed out of the join line. The aluminum is dead soft - the same thing happens to the (much thicker) ST46 head gasket. Or, rather, it is much thicker *to start with* - you find it loose, tighten it, it compresses some more, you tighten it again, tighter, until finally, it starts misfiring, etc. Replace the head gasket with a stock factory part, back in business.

       For the pipe header gasket, it just leaks, with uncertain effects. For whatever reason, the larger engines seem to tolerate leaks better, and it's less damaging to have leaks at the exhaust end, but they all care about leaks at the header end.

    Brett

[eric rule]

Laser cut gaskets (back plate) for FP35-40, LA 25, .46 as well as ST 46 & 60 have been available from RSM Distribution for a number of years. Can be order from our web site www.rsmdistribution.com

[Bootlegger]

 Eric, I sent you a P/M...