Ringmaster Balsa Leading Edge wing material - where?

[Mark Misegadis]

Ringmaster Balsa Leading Edge wing material - where to buy?

I brought in a small profile section of this material to my local RC shop to have them source it. According to them this shape in a 1"x1" size is a Midwest item. I was told its not available from them until September. I have hunted around the sources that I am aware of and am not finding it. Can anyone here point me to a source for this material.
I'd also like to stay away from the Iron wood versions I have seen in the past.

Thanks Mark

[Bill Little]

Hi Mark,

Shaped LE material is very hard to come by these days.  And finding "good" shaped LE material is even harder to find.

Most kit producers have resorted to redesigning the LE because of this.

On the Brotherhood of the Ring site there is a thread on molding the LE which comes out true and pretty light.  Similar to what RSM does with its Ringmaster LE.

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

[Tim Wescott]

• If you want to build the World's Lightest Ringmaster then mold the leading edge like Marvin says.  I've seen this in pictures, but haven't done it.
• Carve it out of a 1"x1" chunk
• On my S-1, I laminated the leading edge from three pieces of 1/4" balsa, as a compromise between the weight savings of a molded LE, and the crash resistance of a solid one.  I'd like to post a picture that really shows this, but I don't have one.  However, here's a picture of the rib templates I used -- you can see that the ribs extend into the leading edge to hold the pieces.  I built the whole wing on a jig, then glued on the top & bottom LE pieces, then sanded the front flat, then glued the front, then planed & sanded the whole mess to shape.  It's easier to do than say

[Russell Shaffer]

I also stacked up some 1/4 inch strips and glued them together.  Then just shape it like you would a 1 inch square.  It will come out quite straight and not too heavy if you use decent wood. It's actually easier than finding a straight 1 inch square piece.  It will also be much stiffer and warp resistant.

[Brad Smith]

i found some 1 inch leading edge at a hobby shop but it is hard as a bat.

[Mark Misegadis]

Thanks guys. I am cleaning up 2 pair  of LE's that I saved out of wings on a couple of ratty RMasters that I picked up long ago. I have one that was reassembled tonight with some repairs to the damaged areas. I had to cut new ribs for it and as this is a chore I went ahead and built 4 sets. I'd like to scratchbuilt a couple of wings and if I fabbed that leading edge it would still need to work with the flat nosed S-1 Ribs.

What do you think of this place? If the picture is accurate.. then it still looks a little off.

http://www.specializedbalsa.com/products2/lead_trail_aileron.php#SML

Mark

[Crist Rigotti]

Have you tried SIG?

[proparc]

Molding is best, but if you can't, six pound stock is not hard to carve. Just whip up a gauge out of plywood and off you go.

[Mike Griffin]

Hi Mark

Maybe this photo will help.  This is how you build the leading edge on the Ringmaster that RSM manufacturers.   I have built many of these and they come out light and strong

Mike

[Mark Misegadis]

Have you tried SIG?

Sig, Midwest, National Balsa.

Sigs LE is too short.   (depth)
Midwest - September...although I never found it on their website. This info is per the local RC shop.
National Balsa - no got.. Plenty of nice TE material though.

Thanks

[Mark Misegadis]

Molding is best, but if you can't, six pound stock is not hard to carve. Just whip up a gauge out of plywood and off you go.

Right I hear ya. If I have to go there I have plenty of angles on this post to pursue.

[John Cralley]

Mark,

Here is how you do the molded leading edge.

1) Get a straight 1" x 6" board about 4' long (I used an oak board from my junk pile). Clamp it in your shop vise or modify it so it will stand on edge above your work bench (blocks on each end).
2) Cut a 48" strip of 1/16" (relatively hard) balsa 7/8" wide and tack it to the edge of the board with a few dabs of rubber cement.
3) Cut a bunch of 1/16" balsa rib-lets as you see in the photo. I use a sheet brass template and place it on the balsa and cut each out with a #11 blade in my hobby knife.
4) Mark the 48" strip for the rib-let locations and glue the rib-lets to the strip.
5) Measure distance around a rib-let plus the strip and add a bit for good measure. You can just wrap a piece of paper around to get this measurement. Then cut a strip of  straight grain 1/16" sheet (soft balsa) that will wrap around the rib-lets. A little excess can be trimmed off after the leading edge is finished or can be notched to receive the regular ribs. If you do not have a balsa sheet long enough double or triple the rib-lets where you are going to make your splice. Don't splice the sheets until after they are formed!!
6) Wet the wrap sheet on one side (ammonia added to the water may help but I have never had to use it). When the sheet will flex enough to wrap tape it on in a couple of strategic places (I use blue painter's tape).
7) Now wrap the whole setup with elastic bandages (I had a couple left over from knee surgery) and let it dry for a day or so.
9) Remove the formed sheet and use slow epoxy or Elmer's wood glue to attach the formed sheet to the rib-lets and 48" strip (41" in the case of a Ringmaster). Rewrap with the Ace bandages and let dry (harden).
10) Remove the bandages and carefully separate the new leading edge from the board (the rubber cement will let go if you apply a steady pressure).

That is it. A lot easier than it sounds. You get a LIGHT, straight and strong leading edge.

[Mark Misegadis]

John, Two words.  THATS SLICK!

[Mark Misegadis]

i found some 1 inch leading edge at a hobby shop but it is hard as a bat.

Yeah Brad. We have some here that has been sitting for years. Rock hard and Curly.

[Mike Griffin]

Mark I have done what John shows and explains so well and it works very well.  Dee Rice has used this method and I learned it from him.  The only thing I would caution you about is NOT to wrap the ACE bandages too tight or you will get dips between the riblets .  Ask me how I know...

Mike

[Mark Misegadis]

Thanks for that tip Mike. I can see how that could happen.

Mark

[builditright]

You could also make one of these nifty items which I include in some of my kits

[John Cralley]

Mark,

If you decide to go with a RSM type leading edge (like Mike Griffin shows in his photo) you need to make a sanding jig like Walter's photo to use for the final shaping of the leading edge.

[proparc]

Hi Mark

Maybe this photo will help.  This is how you build the leading edge on the Ringmaster that RSM manufacturers.   I have built many of these and they come out light and strong

Mike

Mike
This post is not for me, its for Mark and his request but, I like this one the best. This is good stuff. You bypass the work of carving a leading edge, and you bypass the work of molding a leading edge.

I likes me this.