Richard Oliver - Making Decals

[Dennis Leonhardi]

Waaay back in 2005 Richard Oliver posted some great stuff on the Ultra Hobby Products forum with regard to making decals on an inkjet printer.  He - and others - also posted some great graphics files - which, of course, I didn't save.  

How about an update?  And does anyone have those graphics saved?  The Sterling Ringmaster logo was probably one of the most popular.  I'd like to give it a try ...

Dennis
 

[Avaiojet]

Dennis,

Your request comes up from time to time.

I don't remember the modeler's website that had tons and tons of graphics that guys posted. I think it's an electric site? I'll dig.

How they make the "clear" area on decal paper disappear when applied, I have no idea? Clear coat?

My interest would be tiny lettering that isn't decals. I should, but I don't make decals.

Sparky nailed it with his really tiny lettering on his Jug. All Paint! Gotta ask him about that, I forgot who he said he got the "masks" from?

As for available graphics on line. Some are probably already at a suitable resolution that can be printed with a reasonably sharp edge. Others may not be.

I draw in vector format, so resolution isn't an issue with what I need or whoever I make stuff for.  Cut masks are cut masks and cut vinyl is cut vinyl. Resolution isn't an issue unless you print on vinyl.

I do have this one website that I continue to use as an art source and also for research. I think it's great.

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Roundel

Charles

[John Cralley]

Dennis,

Here is the S-1 Ringmaster logo as well as a neat Brotherhood of the Ring logo.

[Paul Wescott]

Dennis,

How they make the "clear" area on decal paper disappear when applied, I have no idea? Clear coat?

Charles

Decal paper is a backing sheet with a thin layer of clear lacquer on top.  An inkjet printer prints on top of the clear lacquer.  The decal is cut out, soaked briefly which causes the lacquer to separate from the backing sheet and the lacquer+ink are slid into place on a model (hence the term "water slide decals").  If any true white areas (not clear), such as those on an American Flag, are part of the graphic, the printer must be capable of laying down white ink.

Clear as mud?

Paul W.

[John Cralley]

Printers that print white are hard to come by!! You can buy decal paper that is white rather than clear but if this is used over any background except a light color the background color will tint the white. An alternative is to only apply water slide decals that contain white content over a white area or cut a piece of iron on white film to match the decal and apply it first so that it becomes the background for the decal when it is applied (a bit of a pain).

It should be noted that for ink jet water slide decals you must coat the decal after is is printed with clear coat (usually Krylon Crystal Clear is recommended) to prevent the ink from running when the decal is soaking in water. Also, a coat of clear can (should) be sprayed over the applied decal, once it has dried, to seal it onto the model.

[Paul Wood]

Dennis,

Here's a couple of examples of what John describes above.  He is exactly right in his explanation.  The only thing I do differently is use a laser jet printer.  The ink on an ink jet printer is too fragile and tends to smear.  If you don't have access to a laser jet printer, you can take your image to an office supply store on a memory stick and they will print it for you at a reasonable cost.  (Don't forget to take the decal paper with you.)  On the "stunt wing" image, I used white background paper and changed the white to red using the software (Word 2010).  All kinds of options available. 

Paul

[Jim Kraft]

I did all of these on my wing with an inkjet printer on Testors  decal paper. After they dry a few hours I brush them with butyrate dope a couple of times to seal the ink. After applying them I give them a couple of more coats of dope to seal them to the finish. The flag decal is done on white decal paper, and the others are done on clear.

[Mike Griffin]

Dennis I contacted Richard Oliver and asked him about the decals.  He actually had an article on it in Control Line World about it.  However he lost the file due to a hard drive crash.  Sorry, I tried for you.

Mike

[Randy Cuberly]

The decals on this Road Runner were printed on Agfa Decal Paper about 10 years ago.
The only special requirements for the decals is to spray the sheets with thin clear dope after printing.  Spray about 4-5 very dry coats of 50/50 dope/thinner before one final coat of fairly heavy consistency.

Tape the sheets flat before spraying the dope and keep them that way until the final coat is dry.

Cut them out and place them in luke warm water for a minute or less.  Take them out before the decal completely separates and floats off the sheet.  It can be a little messy if you leave them in too long.  Transfer them to the airplane surface that is very clean...Blot them carefully with paper towels until pretty dry.   Keep working carefully to avoid any lifting of edges while drying.

Once dry spray them with clear again (yes fairly dry coats), I used two coats at this stage and didn't have any problems.

Clear coat your favorite way.

I would add that this process was very resilient and the decals were on the airplane for over 10 years and were still on it when the titanium pushrod end broke, at the bellcrank, at this years VSC...
Many pieces resulted and the Road Runner is no more.

Randy Cuberly

[Avaiojet]

Well,

I knew I had something someplace on decal papers. I spent the time digging, just for you guys.

Here's what I got.

VitaCal, they are in California.

562-699-9200.

There distributor is:

Wm. K Walthers, Inc.
800-877-7171

www.walthers.com

The info I have on them goes back to 2000.

Old catalog, but great offerings on decal papers.

Hope the lead pays off.

Charles

[John Cralley]

Google "water slide decal paper" and you will get a number of vendors come up. I recently got ten sheets of 8.5" x11" inkjet paper from "Robin's Eggcetera" for about $12 with free shipping. It seems to work fine. http://robinseggcetera.mybisi.com/products/inkjet-waterslide-decal-paper

[GonzoBonzo]

How they make the "clear" area on decal paper disappear when applied, I have no idea? Clear coat?

Another thing to look out for is "silvering".  This happens when you apply the decal over a matte, or semi-matte surface. It's caused by the tiny air bubbles trapped in the irregular paint surface under the decal.   If you're doing a military scheme, make sure you shoot a coat of gloss clear to the areas where the decals will be applied.  On plastic scale models, a lot of us use Future floor wax shot straight from an airbrush.  Apply the decal then, then use a clear gloss, or matte coat over them.  And yes, the clear film will disappear.

Gonzo

[Dennis Leonhardi]

Thanks guys, this is great stuff!!!

Dennis
 

[Avaiojet]

Waaay back in 2005 Richard Oliver posted some great stuff on the Ultra Hobby Products forum with regard to making decals on an inkjet printer.  He - and others - also posted some great graphics files - which, of course, I didn't save.  

How about an update?  And does anyone have those graphics saved?  The Sterling Ringmaster logo was probably one of the most popular.  I'd like to give it a try ...

Dennis:)

Might need to log in?

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=359029

Lots and lots of stuff from generous modelers!

Charles

[Dennis Leonhardi]

Thanks Charles - terrific source!


Dennis