Author Topic: Rev Up props (Read 3698 times)

RC Storick · « **on:** October 07, 2016, 09:06:14 AM »

Does anyone know with certainty the finish on these props?

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #1 on:** October 07, 2016, 09:59:15 AM »

Robert,
I know this seems rather "Captain Obvious" but why not just strip it all off and add your own base and top coat?

Best, DennisT

RC Storick · « **Reply #2 on:** October 07, 2016, 10:56:25 AM »

Quote from: Dennis Toth on October 07, 2016, 09:59:15 AM

Robert,
I know this seems rather "Captain Obvious" but why not just strip it all off and add your own base and top coat?

Best, DennisT

I want to restore 1 prop to original condition

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #3 on:** October 07, 2016, 11:17:43 AM »

Robert,
OK that makes sense. I know Rev-Ups were made by a couple of owners over the years so the finish may have change as new owners started producing them. The ones I have seem like a lacquer/dope of some type as over coating with auto spraycan clear doesn't wrinkle it. Maybe a call to Windy if no one else knows.

Best, DennisT

peabody · « **Reply #4 on:** October 07, 2016, 11:57:22 AM »

Winfred painted them with dope....mostly Brodak, after a light sanding.

Scott B. Riese · « **Reply #5 on:** October 07, 2016, 07:16:16 PM »

Thought it was Sig Lite-coat........

Randy Cuberly · « **Reply #6 on:** October 07, 2016, 10:05:38 PM »

Yes, I too think it was Sig Dope. I used to modify some large ones to smaller for combat and used SIG Dope and it was completely compatible with the original finish. I distinctly remember being told by someone (can't remember who) from SIG that it was SIG Dope on the originals.

Randy Cuberly

peabody · « **Reply #7 on:** October 08, 2016, 07:08:46 AM »

Windy did use SIG ....until Brodak began selling dope...
He still uses Brodak occasionally to paint motorbikes...

Brett Buck · « **Reply #8 on:** October 08, 2016, 10:06:08 AM »

Quote from: peabody on October 08, 2016, 07:08:46 AM

Windy did use SIG ....until Brodak began selling dope...
He still uses Brodak occasionally to paint motorbikes...

The question was about the original finish, not what Windy did.

BTW, the best refinishing material for wood props is thin Hot Stuff, using the rub-on method.

Brett

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #9 on:** October 08, 2016, 12:03:08 PM »

Maybe a search of the original full Rev Up company name may turn up an old add that calls out the finish or some articles on the original company. Does anyone have the full company name?

Best, DennisT

Randy Cuberly · « **Reply #10 on:** October 08, 2016, 12:11:44 PM »

Quote from: Dennis Toth on October 08, 2016, 12:03:08 PM

Maybe a search of the original full Rev Up company name may turn up an old add that calls out the finish or some articles on the original company. Does anyone have the full company name?

Best, DennisT

I don't think it was a very large operation. Likely more of a garage industry!

Probably not a lot of info on line!

Randy Cuberly

Joe Bowman · « **Reply #11 on:** October 08, 2016, 12:44:25 PM »

I talked to Mrs. Finely and she thought that "Mason" (the guy that made the props for Jim) used Lacquer to finish the props. Realize that she was trying to remember back a long time ago. We all know what we remember

.
We sometimes don't think our wives know much about what we are doing in the hobby, but. That's all the help I can shed on the subject. Jim was a friend of mine and I know that I knew the answer to this question at some point in time, but not anymore.

Dan McEntee · « **Reply #12 on:** October 08, 2016, 01:02:44 PM »

I know that the finish wasn't fuel proof, and if you got fuel on a Rev-Up blade it would dissolve the finish. I always thought it was just a clear lacquer, and like any mass produced product, to keep costs down they probably used the cheapest stuff they could find. It was a nice finish, but not very durable. I would be interested in a complete history of the company. They put out an incredible amount of different sizes and pitches. Jim Lee attended the auction where they attempted to auction off the leftovers of the company and related equipment, but if I remember correctly he said that it wasn't worth the trip as it was all pretty much ruined by the 1993 floods. As I recall the story, the location of the production facilities was flooded in the '93 floods, and the owner was going through other life challenges at the time, and just walked away from it, leaving everything to just sit and rot. That's how I remember hearing about it at the time. Any body got any more of a clear picture?
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee

Phil Spillman · « **Reply #13 on:** October 08, 2016, 04:06:41 PM »

I balance mine with my little tool and spray Rust-O-Leum clear from Wall Mart and they work just fine! Don't know if you have an original prop to copy a decal from but I am sure someone could copy a prop and send you a picture for making your own decal to add to the finished prop.
This finish is durable enough for me and my pleasure!

Phil spillman

Bill Johnson · « **Reply #14 on:** October 10, 2016, 07:53:01 AM »

If it still has some of the original finish, try a drop of lacquer thinner on it. If it softens it within 10-15 seconds, it's lacquer.

Brett Buck · « **Reply #15 on:** October 10, 2016, 11:03:47 AM »

Quote from: Bill Johnson on October 10, 2016, 07:53:01 AM

If it still has some of the original finish, try a drop of lacquer thinner on it. If it softens it within 10-15 seconds, it's lacquer.

It will come off easily with lacquer thinner, that's how you strip it for rework.

Its some form of lacquer. The only real question is furniture lacquer or some form of dope. It is moderately fuel-resistant - just like butyrate dope.

Brett

FLOYD CARTER · « **Reply #16 on:** October 10, 2016, 11:25:02 AM »

When Clarence Bull was making Y&O props in Harrisburg, OR, I visited his shop. He stated that he used Varathane varnish in huis home-made spray booth. About a dozen props were threaded on a rod and given 2 coats.

Floyd

Brett Buck · « **Reply #17 on:** October 10, 2016, 11:53:25 AM »

Quote from: FLOYD CARTER on October 10, 2016, 11:25:02 AM

When Clarence Bull was making Y&O props in Harrisburg, OR, I visited his shop. He stated that he used Varathane varnish in huis home-made spray booth. About a dozen props were threaded on a rod and given 2 coats.

That's definitely not what was on the Rev-Up. You could strip the Rev-up completely in about 10 seconds by wrapping it in a paper towel, soaking the towel with lacquer thinner, and then just wiping it off. Urethane-type finishes will usually take a lot sterner stuff than that.

Brett

riley wooten · « **Reply #18 on:** October 10, 2016, 12:04:24 PM »

Chris Machin (sp) was the guy behind Rev-Up... He did use lacquer but I don't know type! After his wife passed away he just gave up on life.. I knew him for a long time and tried to buy Rev-Up but we could never make a deal.
rw

Bill Johnson · « **Reply #19 on:** October 10, 2016, 01:48:20 PM »

Quote from: Brett Buck on October 10, 2016, 11:03:47 AM

It will come off easily with lacquer thinner, that's how you strip it for rework.

Its some form of lacquer. The only real question is furniture lacquer or some form of dope. It is moderately fuel-resistant - just like butyrate dope.

Brett

Thanks, Brett. I didn't realize dope was a form of lacquer!

Jim Kraft · « **Reply #20 on:** October 10, 2016, 02:27:02 PM »

Rev Up props were made at Manhattan Ks about 40 miles from where I live. When it quit producing props Finley's Hobby Shop in Wichita must have bought the remaining stock, as he sold them for years after it was shut down. No one else had any. I always liked them and at one time had quite a few 10-6 props that I got at Finley's. I refinished most of mine with Krylon Crystal Clear. Makes a nice finish and seems fuel resistant. No more sticky props.