Replacing the cell in your sonic-tronics Ni-starter

[Dane Martin]

How to replace the Ni-cad cell in your sonic-tronics Ni-starter. Remove the label and then the orange covers. They're not glued on. Just tight. Unsolder the wire lead from the top (positive tab). With the soldering iron in the stand, Unsolder the post from the negative by spinning the post around on the soldering iron tip. They use a lot of solder, so you'll have to flood it off or use a vacuum desolderer. Tin the new cell negative in a circle, leaving the center free of solder. Using a clamp, hold the post and cell together. Solder the post while spinning the assembly so it's not overheated. Allow to cool. Tin the positive and solder the wire to the positive. Now you can reassemble. Allow to cool thoroughly before charging!

This glo driver is only $19 plus shipping and is still available from http://www.sonictronics.com/xcart/home.php

A cell is usually less than 5 bucks. So it's just a fun project. I just bought a new one, now my repaired one will be back up!

[Bill Ervin]

Thanks Dane, I need to do this too for a back-up.  The off brand nistarters, especially the ones with a meter, are just a bit too long for an inverted engine.

[Dane Martin]

For your plane, I'd probably recommend a 4/5 Sub-C cell installed in a sonic-tronics driver. Even shorter!

[Dane Martin]

The ol' veco 19 test!

[John Tate]

Did you use the sub C Nicad or did you go for the NIMH ?
Also what MAH did you use?

One of the reasons for asking is: the one and only hobby shop that I have only has sub C Nicads that are 5 years old.

[Dane Martin]

In these, I prefer Ni-Cad. Being that old may not be a problem, but keep in mind Nicad has a self voltage depletion. Ni-mh is more sensitive to that. Ni-mh hates being depleted to zero. Ni-cad prefers it.

So take a volt meter with you and pick the one with the highest resting voltage.

Do you have a batteries plus, or a batteries systems shop around?

[John Tate]

Thanks for the info Dane.
I do have a Batteries Plus here. I go there from time to time. They told to buy all the nicads the last time I was there. They stated that the nicads were not being made for their suppliers any more. I have been replacing nicads with NIMH. I do not like the NIMH but, I use what I can get.

[Roy DeCamara]

Hi Dane   I pretty  much do the same as you do, except I use copper solder braid, "solder wick", to remove the excess solder.  After complete reassembly I cover the joint between the caps with a address label and then a piece of clear packaging tape.  This way you can always identify your starter and hopefully get it back should it get misplaced at the field.  Good post.............

[Dane Martin]

Part of the fun in this hobby is all neat side projects we can do. And especially learning all the ways others do it!

I wouldn't hesitate to use Ni-mh. In fact, I believe sonic-tronics uses 3800mah Ni-mh now. But Ni-cad has a higher discharge rate, per the chemistry. I don't know that I could tell the difference. I guess it's just one of those mental things.

[Steve Helmick]

As I recall, SH member Fred Cronenwett published an article in Model Aviation that showed how to do this.

For myself, when I came back to CL in the late '90's, I settled on the DuBro ignitors with the replaceable batteries. I've done it a few times, and just a week or so ago. Unscrew, remove battery, drop in new, screw back together...so easy a cave man could do it...and I proved it!

I've also used both NiCads and NiMH, and didn't care for the NiMH...they were always flat when I wanted to go flying. With NiCads, they may be flat, or they might be just fine, when the call comes to go. Eventually, I'll go with a plug in system with a mini-phono plug-in on the side of the plane. Alan Resinger showed us how to make a clip for the glowplug post that is compact, light and brilliant. He even gave me one. Thanks, Alan! I'll be using it next season, I hope. Power source will be a pack of Alkaline D cells wired in parallel.  Steve

[Dane Martin]

Since I had my soldering stuff out, I decided to complete a project I've wanted to try. I bought a new 1/2a clamp from sonic-tronics also. I cut the end off and soldered the wires to a 4/5 Sub-C cell. I had some self adhesive foam strip laying around and used that as end protectors on the cell. Wrapped the whole thing in heat shrink.

[Dane Martin]

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