Yes, Claudio. I do it all the time.
A couple of random notes:
-I most often tweak near the blade root where airfoil is thick and allmost symmetrical. I always start with a prop with pure geometric 5,9 or 6" pitch, and reduce pitch. That makes some wash-out in the blade which I think is a good thing. You can also do it closer to tips but it's very easy to screw up the blade airfoil. Just hold something flat against the blade back when tweaking, and during cooling-down.
-For a permanent result you must heat the whole cross section to about 100 degrees C. Adjust your heat gun to 100..120C and heat very slowly, otherwise you'll burn the surface.
-I've found the best way is to lock the pitch gauge arm to the correct position with a small clamp, heat the blade root and quickly put the prop in the gauge. Then tweak the blade a little "over" the desired value, and when it's still hot, gently tweak it back to the correct pitch. Only that way, and only when the blade cross section is hot all the way through, can you expect permanent results. If it's not well heated, you'll leave interlaminar tensions in the wood and result is less stable.
-Wood becomes surprisingly soft at 100C.
-I make sets of big-ish props (about 13" dia) this way with 1/8" pitch increments and they stay exactly the same for years.
-Sometimes I know what I want, and do the tweaking before finishing the prop. That way the end result is a little prettier, as the clear coat always wrinkles or discolours a little during heating and deforming. But most of the time I don't care. L