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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: frank mccune on October 11, 2017, 08:01:14 AM
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Hello All:
I have this old Nobler 55 years old, that has the original, brittle, tissue paper covering that will get a hole in if one stares at it. It also vibrates very badly when the engine is running, Since it was built with Ambroid I thought that it might be a good idea to apply fresh adhesive to all of the joints. Perhaps a thin CA adhesive would work in the joints that are still tight and a small dab of Gorilla Glue would be the answer for the joints that have separated. I would have to remove all covering material to gain access to many of the wood joints.
Is there a silk and dope finish in my future? An old Nobler with an iron on finish more than bad taste! It is a crime!!! Lol
Is this a worthwhile Winter project of a fool's errand?
Comments/suggestions?
Tia,
Frank McCune
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Frank I think it would be fine to just recover in silkspan or jap tissue and dope. Unless you actually see a problem with the glue joints i'd leave them alone. You'll likely ruin the airplane with added weight should you try re-glueing everything. I would be more concerned about the integrity of the motor mounts. If they are rotted or oil soaked i'd try to replace those. While you have it stripped cut a couple look-see holes to see what the controls look like. Beware old soldered washers and worn lead out cables. There you'll have to determine what needs fixing and if it's more trouble than it's worth. Good luck with the project!
Dave
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Frank,
If you can, weigh the model as it is. I'd be curious of the weight now? You can weigh it again after you do your magic and complete the model.
I only use silk and dope on my models. Silk is a great covering IMFHO. BWTFDIK. LL~
I'd stay away from Gorilla Glue, but that's me.
Get the covering off first then make an assessment.
That vibration was probably a prop that wasn't balanced. Gotta balance the props.
I think it's worth bringing back to life. Look what I did to a really used Super Ringmaster. I made that beautiful P-40 out of it, remember?
One step at a time.
CB
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Hello Walter:
Thanks for all of the good tips. If it has a handmade made per the instructions tank installed, it would be kool as I have a GB Nobler waiting to be built.
I will be able to access the situation better.
Cheers,
Frank McCune
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Frank
I got a similar very old balsa and tissue plane at a swap meet nearly free... I can tell you over that long a time the Ambroid glue is all like glass
I am currently working on a oil soaked plane to total refinish... silly me... I can build a new kit a bit faster
You said you have a GB Nobler kit... You already know building the kit will be Mo Gooder and less frustration
Unless the 55 year old model had some significant nostalgia tug to me... it gets put back in the attic until it is 100 then sent off on a Viking pyre
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Frank,
I wouldn't be to quick to throw in the towel on any model. Experience can be had by doing a rehab. And fun!
Here's a link to a Thread I put up about just that, a rehab on a Super Ringmaster I did a year or so ago.
I looked at the project as worthy.
In fact, I enjoyed it and it went quick.
Hope this link takes you there.
https://stunthanger.com/smf/building-techniques/'silk-purse!'-p-40-warhawk!-from-a-ringmaster/
Charles
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I have a Nobler hanging in the shop that was covered with nylon and doped. This was back when I was recovering from a motorcycle accident in which I supposedly totaled out an old A frame tow truck. I have thought of trying to resurrect it but decide no as it is too old and was built using Ambroid. This was back in 68-69. I did also try to recover my first Thunderbird that was built in 63, but it kept falling apart and balsa was real brittle.
I would suggest for go the recovering an old ship and build a new one either from kit or scratch. H^^
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Hi Frank, I have a Mid West Skyraider which I built in 1965 with Ambroid Glue and covered with silk. Back in those days I was in the habit of "double"gluing all joints which is to say that the Ambroid was first lightly smeared over the mating joints and then re-glued in assembly! I built all my combat planes this way and they endured! The Skyraider still flies just not too pretty to look at and another Ringmaster built for my son in 1975 also covered with silk still flies as id did on Sunday in the most recent Ringmaster Fly-A- Thon! Back in the late '60s I started to bush all control systems can't remember if I bushed any Nobler's I built back then though....! I did use acid core solder though and seldom neutralized the paste which may have been left on wires and push rods!....
Phil Spillman
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Hi Phil:
Thanks for the information re the Nobler. Since you wee the one who built it, you would know what was inside of it. The fact that there may be some joints soldered with corrosive flux that was not neutralized is a bit concerning! Perhaps the best thing to do with it is to strip it and do a complete evaluation prior to spending much time rebuilding it. Oh yes, I can relate a few horror stories concerning controls that were not bushed!
Did you make a tank as per the plans, or install a commercial tank?
Be well,
Frank McCune
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Hi Frank, I did make the unusual tank suggested on the plan but I also put in a commercial tank! Since I did all this in 1960-61 I have not memory as to what might be in there now! Perhaps Don H. might have an idea if he did anything with the plane! I'd give him a call. He always did do really fine work no matter what the project!
Phil Spillman