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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Dave Nyce on March 09, 2025, 09:30:35 AM
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Planning to use clear butyrate to apply silkspan. Is it ok to use rattle can paint from Lowe's over that (e.g. Krylon or Rustoleum)? It will be electric, so fuelproof not needed.
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Dave,
Generally no, but if you really want to you should do a test piece. The rattle can paint is an enamel and will likely not stick well to the butyrate if it has more than one coat. Other option would be mod podge to adhere the silkspan or use a water base acrylic color such as Liquitex ( https://www.liquitex.com).
Best, DennisT
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I've had very good luck with Rustoleum lacquer spray paint over Brodak/Randolph clear butyrate dope. The enamel paints on electric planes show no sign of peeling.
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Use nitrate dope and be happier.
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I'm leaning in a direction like Mr. Dan mentions...with a twist.
I've had great experience using clear sanding lacquer just as one uses nitrate dope. The stuff behaves (brush or spray) like nitrate, thins and cleans like nitrate. I top coat it with butyrate for fuel proofing/color. I have learned it is best to airbrush butyrate over it.
Why do I like it? Value and availability. It is readily available at my local hardware store. So far I've used Deft and MinWax. They both worked just fine with cheap Walmart Rust-Oleum lacquer thinner. They quickly develop that hard, smooth finish identified by tapping with a finger nail (tap-tap almost sounds like "clack-clack").
Will it topcoat/work with a spray-bomb? I don't know. But it is worth a try...especially if you have access to samples or are willing to drop $15 on a quart.
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Is this what you are referring to?
1 Qt Dft015 Clear Lacquer Sanding Sealer Nitrocellulose Interior Wood Sealer
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As I understand it, butyrate can be applied over nitrate, but not the other way around. A few times in the past, I used clear nitrate to stick the silkspan on bare wood and to start filling in the silkspan. When I applied butyrate over that, I had some compatibility issues. Bubbling and other problems. It would occur in some areas, not all over. Sometimes it would work, sometimes not. I have no idea why. Because of that, I quit using nitrate and I use butyrate from the ground up.
Maybe one product or the other had a defect or maybe a change to the chemical composition was enough to cause the problem.
As was suggested, try everything out first on a test piece, especially if you are mixing brands or types of material.
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I've also used Rust-Oleum over nitrate with no problems other than not getting it to shine like I wanted.
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Is this what you are referring to?
1 Qt Dft015 Clear Lacquer Sanding Sealer Nitrocellulose Interior Wood Sealer
Yep! Keep in mind that Ambroid was a nitrocellulose glue, as is the Three Rivers fletching glue. I can't remember where I got the idea...I think from one of the free flight sites. I really need to try a water-base polyurethane or catalyzed canned Rust-Oleum over it (mix my own colors). My dope stash is sadly starting to wane.
@Jim S.
I also ran into some compatibility issues. One time I brushed a florescent orange butyrate over Deft. What a mess! However, cleaning up and doing it all from scratch worked just fine once I airbrushed the bright butyrate over the Deft. I assume the base just got soggy with the topcoat going on so heavy-handed by brush. Of course, the final finish looked better/smoother for being sprayed.