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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: John Fitzgerald on October 26, 2014, 06:16:19 PM
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I cut a 1-1/2 inch length of the largest size pool noodle for a core, then glued a small margarine tub lid on each end using Gorilla polyurethane glue. Drilled a hole in the lids for an axle, and it holds a set of lines just fine.
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I cut a 1-1/2 inch length of the largest size pool noodle for a core, then glued a small margarine tub lid on each end using Gorilla polyurethane glue. Drilled a hole in the lids for an axle, and it holds a set of lines just fine.
Good idea, anyone else?
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http://brodak.com/control-line-parts/reels/4-inch-plastic-reel.html
Done.
MM
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http://brodak.com/control-line-parts/reels/4-inch-plastic-reel.html
Done.
MM
This is also my solution.. Like being able to stick one finger through the center and use a finger on the other hand to reel in the lines. Besides have no idea what a pool noodle is.
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Mr. Reeves , a pool noodle looks like pvc pipe insulation that you slide around pipe to prevent freezing. They come in different colors and kids whack each other with them when they are in the pool. I cut them up and use them for jug lines when I go fishing. They have a couple dozen uses, none of which are related to swimming pools around my house.
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I cut a 1-1/2 inch length of the largest size pool noodle for a core, then glued a small margarine tub lid on each end using Gorilla polyurethane glue. Drilled a hole in the lids for an axle, and it holds a set of lines just fine.
Could you post a picture of one?
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http://brodak.com/control-line-parts/reels/4-inch-plastic-reel.html
Done.
MM
This is the best choice. As a bonus, you can go to a fishing tackle store and buy a plastic storage box for leader reels. I have one that holds six 4" reels perfectly. I might add that if you cut a small cube of foam rubber to put under the clip it helps hold the end of the lines in place.
Brian
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I take a normal $3 Sig line reel and open up the slot until it's a much larger hole. Then I bend a hook from thin music wire and install it inside the reel where it won't be in the way. When I'm done flying for the day, I pop the eyelets over the hook and wind up the lines, then thread the reel clip through the line clips and snap it on the reel with the lines pulled snug. That way the lines are protected by the reel, they can't get kinked, and the reel takes up much less space. I also add a masking tape label to the back side of the cross bar with the date the lines were finished, the size, and length, which tends to keep the markings from rubbing off quite so quickly.
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r26/fbodies/public%20model%20airplane%20stuff/P9210049small.jpg)
(http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r26/fbodies/public%20model%20airplane%20stuff/P9210048.jpg)
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I like the Sullivan line spools...didn't like the SIG ones, but they can be modified. Like Brian, I put a piece of neoprene foam under the clip to hold the ends of the lines in place.
http://www.sullivanproducts.com/ControlLineMainFrame.htm
I take the handle off the lines, and leave one clip on the plane and both on the handle. SOP is to start by hooking the lines to the plane (which resists being dragged quite well), run the lines out and see which is up by pulling on one or the other, then hook the handle on and re-check for up elevator. The three adavantages of this procedure is that (1)the lines and handle take up a lot less space when disconnected, (2) the lines are much less likely to be kinked near the handle during storage/transport and (3) when there is a considerable time between flights, I can remove the handle and reel up the lines, but leave them connected to the plane. The reason for #3 is an effort to keep my lines from being trampled. It helps. H^^ Steve
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Photo
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This is what I use. the old on the left was sold back in the late "50"s don't remember who sold them .. The on on the right is my updated copy , I find that this type works good because the lines are always hook up in line withe wheel no right angles in slots like plastic reals.
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This is what I use. the old on the left was sold back in the late "50"s don't remember who sold them .. The on on the right is my updated copy , I find that this type works good because the lines are always hook up in line withe wheel no right angles in slots like plastic reals.
Hi Larry,
I believe what you have are called the "Reel Pal".
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This is also my solution.. Like being able to stick one finger through the center and use a finger on the other hand to reel in the lines. Besides have no idea what a pool noodle is.
LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~ LL~
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Thanks De they work great with solid wire, like Monoline I still have 6 of them.with speed solid lines. y1 8)