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General control line discussion => Open Forum => Topic started by: Mike Griffin on March 28, 2022, 01:57:39 PM
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I have a few cans of partially used Klass Kote that have been on the shelf for a couple of years. The tops of the cans seemed to have welded themselves on and I cannot get them open. Has anyone ever had this problem and If so, how did you get them open. Also, how can one prevent this from happening again if you are going to have it on the shelf for a while before reopening?
Thanks
Mike
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If it is truly stuck, sacrifice the can and pry it open however needed, and transfer the contents to another container. You can usually buy empty cans at the hardware/paint store, or even canning jars work, though some like to use foil under the lid so the rubber seal doesn't go to goo. I must say, I've used Klass Kote many years and never had a can bond shut. Without the hardener, it shouldn't kick. Now, settle, that is another story, you will need to stir that can a lot to transfer all the settled pigments to the new can.
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I have a few cans of partially used Klass Kote that have been on the shelf for a couple of years. The tops of the cans seemed to have welded themselves on and I cannot get them open. Has anyone ever had this problem and If so, how did you get them open. Also, how can one prevent this from happening again if you are going to have it on the shelf for a while before reopening?
Thanks
Mike
Hi Mike.....yes happened to me too.
I used hot air on the tops and after a while of that I used a large Channel Lock to remove the lids.
Bend a piece of 1/8" wire into a triangle with a tail on it....chuck the tail into your drill and stir it up.
The will probably be plenty of paint that has settled to the bottom so you can use a paddle stick to bust it all loose then stir it all up with the drill.
Worked great....In fact I stir them up about once a year.
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Turn the can upside down and dribble some lacquer thinner onto the flange of the lid. Repeat the dribble a couple times.
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Well, there are a lot of scientific and newfangled--not even to say complicated--solutions to this problem. But here's a simple one that works....
The Divot
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Prevention would be to clean the threads before you close it. I keep paint off the can by using a small plastic syringe to remove the paint. Makes it easy to measure too.
Motorman 8)
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Hmm, so it sounds like unmixed Klass Kote has a long shelf life (at least a couple of years or more). Any record holders out there?
Dave Mo…
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Well, there are a lot of scientific and newfangled--not even to say complicated--solutions to this problem. But here's a simple one that works....
The Divot
Dave I actually tried that and the top would not budge.
Mike
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I have a few cans of partially used Klass Kote that have been on the shelf for a couple of years. The tops of the cans seemed to have welded themselves on and I cannot get them open. Has anyone ever had this problem and If so, how did you get them open. Also, how can one prevent this from happening again if you are going to have it on the shelf for a while before reopening?
Yes, I had the same problem. I ended up cutting the top of the can off and using a new "normal" paint can with the pry-off lid - stir it up well before you pour it into a new can or you might end up leaving all the pigment behind.
I have to say that while I like the paint system, the packaging leaves a lot to be desired - EVERY thinner can I got ended up leaking, right through the seams, and the screw-on caps are a big pain in the *ss.
Brett
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Well, there are a lot of scientific and newfangled--not even to say complicated--solutions to this problem. But here's a simple one that works....
The Divot
That sure is a nice looking workbench.
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When I get cans like that and have opened them to do a paint job I put parchment paper under the lid so it covers the thread. Especially dope jars D>K
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The proactive approach, as has been mentioned, is to clean off the threads on the can and the cap before reinstalling. If you take the slip joint pliers to the cap, you distort the cap and make it even more prone to leakage. I bet if we made some teflon cap liners and used them when we first opened the can that the whole problem would go away.
Norm Furutani put us onto some high-quality storage jars from McMaster. If you want to do better than screw-top cans (or even worse, the standard hammer-lid paint can), I'd check out Norm's method.
If I had a lid that was really stuck, I might hit the lid with the heat gun and then keep twisting. I'd likely use a quick cardboard cutout (that's what empty cereal boxes are for) to keep the heat off the rest of the can. The more delta-T you can get, the more likely you are to crack it loose.
I have tried storing the cans upside down so that air exchange (diurnal breathing) doesn't degrade the paint. If you do that, you might find over a year or so that the can you thought you sealed has been weeping paint into your storage box. Naaah, that never happened to me! Right....
I suppose I could put some thinner on those blobs to see how readily they absorb it and become viscous material, as opposed to solid material. That would tell you whether dosing the can with thinner will likely have the desired effect. But remember, it is about the solvent migration. If the solvent can only reach the edge of the glued seam, it will have to migrate all the way thru the threads before it will break loose.
I have been using the stuff now for at least 10 years or so? I put the dates on the cans just to help keep track. If it hasn't dried out in the can due to poor storage, the stuff seems to keep working.
Something that might help extend the life of the paint is to squirt in some N2 as you close up the can. Reduce the oxidation. Not sure how vulnerable epoxy components are to that....
I think the real trick is to actually finish a bunch of airplanes that you have laying around, ok that I have laying around, thereby putting that good paint to use before it gets decades old and thicker 'n chewing gum on a cold winter day...? I just need to buy some round tuits. The extra large ones. A full case of 'em.
The Divot
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Well written, good Divot. Kudos to you and may you stumble upon that case one day.
Dave Moe…
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Yes, I had the same problem. I ended up cutting the top of the can off and using a new "normal" paint can with the pry-off lid - stir it up well before you pour it into a new can or you might end up leaving all the pigment behind.
I have to say that while I like the paint system, the packaging leaves a lot to be desired - EVERY thinner can I got ended up leaking, right through the seams, and the screw-on caps are a big pain in the *ss.
Brett
Brett, I also had the problem with the thinner leaking and could not figure out where it was coming out. I threw it away but now I know where it was leaking. They really do need to do something different with their packaging. It is a great product.
Mike
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I picked up some glass jars at Target with the screw on lids (meant for canning) and I transfer the Klass Kote into those. Put a label on the jar so you know what it is.
My first KLass Kote paint sample was KK clear over latex house paint - it worked, the latex paint did not give me any problems. With the KK clear down the sample was fuel proof. Latex house paint is not fuel proof, but the KK clear over the latex paint is an option for me.
I can fiberglass the model, put a generic primer down, paint with latex paint and then put KK clear over that instead of using full KK primer, paint and clear.
I have also been experimenting with paint masks that were cut on a Cricut Maker 3. By the way the Cricut maker 3 can also cut balsa up to 3/32" thick.
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Brett, I also had the problem with the thinner leaking and could not figure out where it was coming out. I threw it away but now I know where it was leaking. They really do need to do something different with their packaging. It is a great product.
Mike
The last time I poured out the thinner into a clean jar, made sure it had dried out, then soldered all the seams up, put it back.
Brett
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I have a pipe wrench that always seems to be adjusted perfectly for taking Klasskote lids off.
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I've used a channel lock pliers and a strap type oil filter wrench.